hawairish

More like gearnose...everything smells like gear oil again. Just when I thought I had gotten rid of the smell... (And thanks for moving the post.) Thanks! A picture would be great. I think the only difference is the CV flange...wouldn't happen to have the measurements for that? I can't make sense of my own handwriting or measurements...the dyslexia in me apparently wrote 3/38" when I'm pretty sure it's 3-3/8". Not sure how I would have measured a 38th, let alone 3 of them. I must've been eyeballing it with beer goggles or something.

Haha, that's funny, but glad it won't be an everyday annoyance. I can imagine something like being easy to overlook!

Thanks! Eventually I'll add some better details about the X/Fr version...keeping my eye out for 4.90 set for my project. Also, Mods: I meant to put this in The Garage section, not General. Please move when you get a moment?

And now, the internals... So, I started to disassemble things, but it quickly got to the point where it didn’t make sense to continue...things were just different enough to make it clear that nothing, except maybe bearings and seals, were interchangeable. Close, but not close enough. I bet things would physically fit, but would be out of spec by small amounts. That said, pics…let’s start with the gears. Here’s why they aren’t interchangeable: R50: Every other R200: Note the gear cuts going in opposite directions. That’s why any gears for us must be just for us. You can also see a big difference in carriers, although both are open. We have 2-pinion 1-piece carriers, but so do Xterras and Frontiers. Older WD21 and D21 versions had 4-pinion 2-piece carriers, as seen. The biggest surprise for me was finding out that the short shafts were a little different (not counting their CV bolt pattern). The spline count and size is identical (29-spline), but despite being shorter overall, the WD21 flange actually goes further into the carrier by about 3mm. The difference in installation depth of the short shaft in the carrier is seemingly enough to confirm that even the carrier is not interchangeable (though, this is likely not true for X/Fr carriers because they are of the same design, and possibly the same). The only benefit to changing this is that the Lokka won’t fit the 4-pinion carrier, but otherwise, there really is no benefit. Didn’t pull the ring gears out/off...even if the bolt patterns are the same, it’s of no benefit. Same with the long shafts...there’s nothing similar about them except the splined part. Some other notables and observations about the R200A and related Nissan axles... The CV bolt pattern on Xterra and Frontier appears to be the same as the R50 (3 sets of 2 bolts). I believe them to be the same size, but I’m not sure at this time. I do know the X/Fr CV is about 2” longer. I believe all non-R50 R200/R200A use the diff cover as a mounting point, so their covers are usually cast iron. In all those cases, the diff cover either mounts to a crossmember (4wd trucks/SUVs) or subframe (RWD/AWD cars, R51) using bushings. The R50 diff cover bolt pattern differs from all other R200 and C200 diffs I’ve seen (9 bolts vs 8), but R200/C200 appear to be the same. However, I’m not aware of a C200 cover that bolts to a crossmember or subframe, so its cover is not used for structural mounting and is stamped steel like ours. I’m looking to confirm the bolt pattern, though it’s unlikely anyone will have swapped covers to find out. To my knowledge, the C200 only appears as rear axles on trucks/SUVs, and is always paired with the R180A front axle (if 4wd). The R200A is paired with the H233B. (A member here, Stovanovich, confirmed that his 92 TD27 Terrano has an R180A/H233B combo). The C200 shares many parts with the non-R50 R200A, including gears. You can always tell a C200 from an H233B or H190A by the diff cover; the latter two don’t have one. The H233B and H190A (almost exclusively found on 2wd 4-cyl Hardbodies and Frontiers) are similar in the sense that they have removable third members in lieu of covers. Outside of the truck/SUV line-up, the R200/R200A has appeared as rear axles on various Nissan and Infiniti AWD/RWD cars, and more recently the R51 Pathfinder. R52 Pathfinders have...I have no clue, but it appears to be about as powerful as a loaf of bread (and the same size). The R180/A, similar in style to the R200, has appeared in Nissans as both a front axle in 4wd trucks/SUVs, and rear axles in older Nissan/Datsuns. R180A front axles changed considerably with the 2005+ truck/SUV lineup (excluding Titan/Armada); completely re-designed with aluminum housings instead of steel. There were apparently no shortage of problems with them (weak housing and internals grenading re: several X/Fr forums). Oh, and in case you didn’t know it, the numbers in the axle codes indicate the diameter of the ring gears in millimeters. Circling back to the R52...it’s axle code includes a “145”. That ring gear would fit inside the H233B ring gear. If anyone can confirm, deny, or add to these observations, please do!

Haha, get it...what’s the diff? Ok, sorry. Tough crowd. Thought I’d share some details about the R200 diff for a project that’s in my head. Lately I’ve been seeing a bit of chatter about gearing options for the R50, and I’ve been playing bubble-buster by saying the only gear options are 4.363 and 4.636, which are what came stock on 96-04 Pathfinders. Of course, even more bad news is that most R50s from 96-02 already had 4.636, while all 03-04 models had 4.363 only, further limiting the crowd that can actually benefit from a gear change after increasing tire size. I’m hoping to fix that. So if Xterras, Frontiers, Hardbodies, and Pathfinders all have the R200A front axle, then why can’t we interchange gears? Well, Nissan does some silly stuff sometimes. In this case, they put a front axle called the “R200A” in just about every truck and SUV from 1986 to 2004. Yet for an elite class of SUVs (the R50, of course), they put a bastard variant up front. Lucky us, right? Despite sharing an axle code, there are numerous other differences, the most notable one being that gears between are not interchangeable. The R50 version has high-pinion, reverse cut gears, while every other version has low-pinion, standard cut gears. That said, unless a vendor says a set of gears is for—and only for—an R50, will it actually work. With that aside, let’s talk about the exterior differences. R50: WD21: Passenger’s side: R50 diff cover: WD21 diff cover: High-pinion vs low-pinion: As you can see, very different. The obvious visual differences: Axle width CV bolt pattern Pinion height Chassis mounting method Diff cover Pinion offset from driver’s side CV flange Passenger-side flange (the manner in which it bolts to the axle tube) Similarities: Driveshaft flange Distance from axle centerline to flange

Dude, the changes on the carrier look great! Looks awesome tucked up high like that and the re-arranged carriers. Anxious to see how the sliders turn out...that's Colin doing the work, right?

He does! http://4x4design.com. He goes by the handle fleurys around here.

Front Runner Outfitters has a low-profile slimline system that will replace the rack, and has a slew of other accessories. Not terribly cheap, but seemingly of high quality.

It's crazy to me that debris that size can even make it into the cabin.

Good to know! Almost wonder if that setup did exist here then. I actually hadn't seen a coil-sprung C200 until very recently, and that was interesting to see (I was doubting their existence). Here's the unicorn, in case any one else was curious (note the removable diff cover...):

You talking about a rack to replace the current rack completely? Or just replace the two cross bars?

So I picked up the diffs and started taking measurements. I also started a write-up about the differences and got plenty of pics. I haven't cracked it open yet. Will probably do that tonight. Stay tuned. At a high level, this is very doable. It would be bolt-on and re-use CVs. The axle would need a mount cut off, a new diff cover (one from a C200 or car-based R200 oughta fit) and CV spacers/adapters (axle is narrower and WD21 has different CV bolt patterns). I have some other ideas, too like using longer CVs from an X/Fr for increased range, and an integrated missing link. It's no SAS, but it'll open up gearing options for sure.

Clarify to the shop that the lift is nothing more than MacPherson strut assemblies (strut and springs), rear springs and rear shocks. (The "complete" kit is 2x struts, 2x shocks, 4x springs; you can buy just the springs, but the installation is exactly the same). They will need to remove and disassemble the current struts to re-use some parts. If they can't reduce their estimate to 3-4 hours, find another shop. A single mechanic in any suspension shop (or general mechanic) can do it in that amount of time. It takes me that long with on a garage floor with hand tools, a floor jack, jack stands, and a rented (free) set of spring compressors. The R50 suspension isn't magical. Changing the front struts and spring is absolutely no different than any strut-based car (sucks to say, but 'tis true). The most annoying part? Removing/loosening the air box stuff under the hood to get to the driver's side strut tower bolts, which are blocked by a bracket. For the rear, it's even simpler. Just disconnect the shocks and sway bar, let the axle droop, swap springs springs, reinstall shocks. With a 2/4-post lift, this should take no more than 30 mins, and you don't even have to remove the tires nor compress the springs! Again, if your shop has a beef with that estimate, find another shop.

Exactly. I know the responses are meant to be helpful (though admittedly, I disagree with some things), but they are off-topic. If the OP wants to steer the conversation in those directions, that's cool, but for now let's make sure he's got clear and accurate answers to his questions.

To be clear, you're talking about converting your 2006 2wd Pathfinder to a 4wd by buying a bunch of wrecked Pathfinders? Honestly, that sounds like a very cumbersome approach. What you'd be better of doing is finding one wrecked, rear-ended R51 and using that as your donor. You have a lot of research you probably still need to do, but the main thing you're looking for is proof that the 2wd frame is the same as the 4wd frame. If so, everything from the 4wd should just transfer over, and you'll have a perfectly good (hopefully) donor with transfer case, transmission, driveshafts, front suspension, front axle, and any wiring for switches, sensors, etc. Then, you can sell off the engine, front body panels, doors, interior, whatever to recoup costs. Then, scrap what's left for a little more cash. But that's really the long road ahead. For possibly no cost, could you trade in your 2wd 06 for an 4wd 05 and come out even? That's almost zero work.

Wow

I'm so confused. The only place to get AC springs is from AC (Automotive Customizers = 4x4parts.com). The kit is 4 springs. You should need nothing else, assuming items that will be re-used (struts, strut bearing, strut mount, shocks) are all in good shape. Consider longer rear shocks, as you'll be consuming 2" of extension with the springs. Welcome to the forum, don't forget to search. Plenty of pinned threads will answer any suspension questions you'll have.

Wicked. New thread: WD21 to S30 Parts Interchangeability

That's a negative, Ghost Rider. http://www.forum4x4.org/threads/62702-remplacement-du-differentiel-du-pont-R180A-par-un-Quaife

Going into?

Curiosity piqued...

Perfect, that's what I was hoping for clarification on. Picking up an R200 tomorrow and noticed it has a 5-bolt star pattern. The newer R200 CVs are also 6 bolt, 28 spline...and judging by a pic I saw, they have the same bolt pattern as the R180, 3 sets of 2 bolts? My guess is that the side flanges between R200s are interchangeable...guess this is something I'll find out. Is this what it looks like, noting the bolted shaft tube? Also, I didn't think the R180 came with the H233B...I thought it was R180/C200 and R200/H233B combos. This was true for most Nissan truck/SUVs here. Does your rear diff have a removable 8-bolt cover?

I wouldn't mind seeing pics of that R180 also. My impression is that it's the same width and bolting/mounting as your R200, and I thought it used the same CVs?

Awesome...you meant Baja! I thought it was an evil laugh earlier But yes, anything is possible. You're talking the extreme ends of things, I suppose I was thinking something tamer.

Hahaha, had us fooled. Well, there you go for part numbers for anything, just in case. Seems like the best way to get your answer is to pull the tire, pull the drum, and check for warp/axial end play on the axle hub with a dial indicator (the FSM says there should be no play, 0mm/0").