hawairish

That's not a bad idea. I was originally thinking about sleeving them in rubber fuel hose for rock protection (one of the things I like about the TJM is the inclusion of ~3' rubber hose for attaching to the diff), but not sure if the rubber is a good approach. I'm aware of heat shield sleeves...but maybe a silicone hose as a sleeve would be the best of all worlds?

And in case you're curious about the air controls, here's how that's turning out... Diodes doing their thing... The AWD switch controls all compressor and locker functions as described above. The dual gauges are so that I can see pressure levels on both sides of a check valve that is buried in there. The upper gauge is for the air tank and lockers, and the bottom is for the direct readout for the quick connector (shown rotated). The system will relieve the compressor of a charge without discharging the air tank, just to avoid any compressor start-up issues. I've got safety valves on both sections, the cooling fan runs when the compressor is running, or if the compressor is off and above 50°C/122°F. I'm waiting for a digital pressure switch that will allow me to preset an inflation pressure and have the compressor shut off automatically when met, but I've also added a manual switch to bypass that if desired. Here's the manifold that's installed behind the cargo panel, underneath the window. (Didn't get a pic of the installed location apparently.) Safety valve, ARB solenoid, 70/100 pressure switch, TJM solenoid, tee with line from compressor and line to a 1/2 gal. Viair tank. Space is at a premium inside the vehicle, and I didn't feel like mounting everything (really, anything) underneath the vehicle. The unfortunate part is that all the compartments where one could install things (the cargo tub, the quarter panel, under the rear passenger seat) don't "connect"...you can't run wires or hoses between them very easily. So, ended up using some bulkhead push-to-connect fittings. The open one is for the TJM. The lines sit above the muffler (removed in these pics), and while I think there's enough clearance to avoid heat issues, I may craft some sort of heat shield just in case.

I've finally been making some progress on this install. The front ARB was installed the other week, and am about 95% done with the air setup (awaiting one more part), and just finished installed the TJM-equipped 3rd member last night. Disc swap completing today hopefully, and probably changing out the driveshaft u-joints, too. Truck's been on stilts for the past few days. But anyway, here are some more pics and notes of the installation... Finished assembly: Snaking of the line above the carrier (didn't want to cut any of the tubing): I think I made a few minor adjustments to the line after this, but there's about 1/4" clearance from any surface (not that it'll be moving), and it's ample relief. If you installed the actuator the way it came (with the tube pointing down), you'd soon realize the tubing is too short to reach into the housing. I initially attempted to rotate it, and it was really stiff...so much that I worried about collapsing or breaking the tube. But with enough persuasion, it does rotate (there's a small ring clip keeping it together, but I didn't want to mess with it). Fitment of the actuator to the bracket wasn't great. Everything is nice and square, but the slots in the actuator didn't clear the holes in the bracket, so I had to file the slots a tiny amount. Hard to see here, but neither bolt would fit without risking cross-threading. And although there's a set-screw hole on the bracket, it didn't include a set-screw, and I didn't deem it necessary. I also had to file down the bearing cap, although the instructions don't mention a need. The caps have these small metal protrusions that prevent the bracket from sitting flush, and it made the actuator sit a little crooked, too. Then the actuator could be aligned properly...hard to tell, but it clears nicely. How do you like my makeshift work stand? Quick clamp was used to keep the locker engaged. I don't have a giant vise for this sort of work. Also, one of the crown bolts had this tiny, nearly unnoticeable dent on the starting thread that almost immediately manifested into a cross-thread. I had to file that one down a bit. Let this be your gentle reminder to finger tighten bolts first. All things considered, from an installation quality perspective, the TJM is ok. Had to do a bit more work than anticipated to make this all work. More defects than I would expect, but nothing that prevented install. And that sucker is heavy...noticeably heavier than the open or LSD carriers. I have yet to fully test it, but it's back in the axle. I just need to run a line to it, then I can do a full system test. More to follow...

Cool, keep us posted. Side question: what rear locker you going with?

And just curious, where do you see "enhanced mobile view"? Are you just talking the mobile site in general, or are you seeing something else? I've never seen anything say exactly that, and the mobile site hasn't been a burden by any means.

I've not had a problem having it persist on the "full site" when I click the link from the mobile site. I go to the full site from my phone when I need some of the advanced posting options...the first time I ever did that, I couldn't figure out how to get out of full site mode. Maybe something with your mobile device's browser's method of storing cookies?

OD only controls whether the truck goes into 4th gear (the overdrive gear), so it's got no impact on low gears/speeds. PSI depends more on the terrain. Can't say I've seen a compelling article about specific PSIs to use, though. Ideally, you want a PSI that 1) increases surface contact with the obstacle and 2) reduces the risk of puncture by the obstacle. The size of the tire is less important than construction, type, and condition of tire. The tricky part is finding the balance. Since you spend some time at the beaches, 25psi is probably suitable. Maybe higher for wet/packed sand, and lower for dry/loose sand...and lower for hot/dry/loose sand (accounting for operating temps, not "cold" temps). For rockier or bumper conditions, where rocks or branches can puncture tires, under 15-20psi is ideal...lower end for sharp obstacles, higher end for just dirt roads to improve ride quality. Be mindful of changing conditions, too...driving on a low PSI that is good for rocks probably isn't good for that mile stretch of dirt road in between. You should definitely carry an air compressor in any case. I don't have experience with the Viair pump, but in terms of quality, their primary industry focus is air, so I'd expect them to be good. I use the cheap MF-1050 (among variants) that everyone else raves about, and it's earned its keep.

I'm a little concerned about that bushing that didn't require pressing. That's not normal or desirable. You might not want to redo it, but I'd suggest a new control arm. Otherwise, you're only holding the bushing stationary, and it will lead to noise and fatigue, among other things. Plus, the arm will be allowed to moved alone the bushing shell. Were talking about the front bushing on an arm, right?

Wish I would've read this sooner...could've warned you about that. Not interested in using the existing channels with some channel/square nuts?

What did you torque everything down to, btw? You should be somewhere above 110 ft-lbs. Not sure I follow in the loose bushing part. Are you talking about the metal sleeve that the bolt goes through, which is embedded in the rubber? The bolt is loose in there?

Do you suspect any motor mount or transmission mount issues?

The 3.5L is fine without re-gearing, but it's worth it to me, especially if you're planning any other traction upgrade. If you wheel often enough, any improvement in gearing helps the bottom line, especially for the low cost of used diffs.

He's already got 4.636, unfortunately, so he's out of options.

Aside from raising the CoG, an SFD doesn't alter any steering or suspension characteristics...not even a little. The OME struts are heavier duty. I don't have any diving issues with SFD or OME.

Answered your question on the other thread. Yours is high pinion.

If you have an R50, it's high pinion. Everything else is low pinion.

That's exactly how the PCV was on my Frontier...just came apart, too. I just cleaned it out and glued it back together. I've got a replacement one for my truck in the garage, I expect it to be just as cheap.

Other potential sources of vibration: 1. rear driveshaft out of balance or worn u-joints 2. bent axle shaft or wheel Tire rotation or alignment recently? Do you have the means to do a run-out on the wheel flanges at all corners?

Were rubber bushings used, and were they torqued while on the ground? What about the panhard bar bushings?

Well, I found another reference pic of an MQ Patrol with that axle, and I stand corrected: that does appear to be a Nissan axle. ARB also indicates a front C200 from 1979-88, and p/n RD107 fits (which for sure also fits C200 and R200A front and rear diffs; just installed one last weekend, actually). So wow, a front C200. I really wish we got those trucks here....not that a RH drop diff would help us much. But I guess in your case, any C200/R200A locker (ARB, TJM, Eaton, Lokka) ought to fit, but you might be able to find an LSD from another rear C200-equipped Terrano that should install up front.

Gotcha. Well, guess I'd stand corrected. Guess with an age like that, hard to know what it is called.

Not sure what that front axle is...looks more Dana-like. The somewhat trademark about the C200 and R200A axles is the shared diff covers...and if they were both C200, those covers should be interchangeable. The internals would also be the same/similar. I'm just not sure that front is Nissan.

So I made one more discovery tonight about R50 axle shafts...there were actually two shafts. In the axle shaft comparison pics I posted previously, the R50 shaft shown is specifically from a 96-99 model (p/n 38164-0W000). That part was eventually superseded (p/n 38164-VE060), which is used on 00-04 R50, 99-04 D22, and 00-04 WD22. The only difference between the shafts is the wheel flange...the older R50s have a 7.25" diameter, while everything else is 6.5" diameter. It's irrelevant for this particular swap, but just thought I'd mention it since I covered other axle shaft variants. It's relevant for the rear disc brake swap project I'm also working on...

Well, I took another look at the FSM and found better information. One lead is fused directly from the battery, as suspected, but the other lead is tied to the RH turn signals. Since there's no LH connectivity, I presume it's just for operating the hazards on the trailer. The constant supply is probably for supplemental power to the brake lamps or turn signals on the trailer, and it's probably in conjunction with another trailer harness. If you're bored/curious, check EL-85 and E-86 (harness on this page), http://www.nicoclub.com/manuals/Pathfinder/2004_Pathfinder/el.pdf. I don't see the harness in a 2002 model, and didn't check any others. But anyway, I can always find a use for that power source. It's placement is actually perfect for a tiny Mopar/Kicker sub amp I have and it'll fit right behind the Bose amp.

Honestly, costs. Deals were hard to pass up (saved $600 over the costs of two new ARBs), and when all is said and done, after buying parts and selling things off, it'll be a cheap(ish) upgrade and still several hundred under the costs of two new ARBs alone. This was probably a long-term upgrade, but it's tied into some other projects that I can tackle now (like a rear disc swap). Thanks Steve! So does a 4-pinion open carrier with 33/s side gears with the teeth cut like 31/s actually exist? I couldn't find any proof for US models, but there are too many Patrol variants and no convenient way to cross-ref. But even if re-using the 33/s side gears (which presumably all have rounded teeth, judging by cross-referenced side and spider gears on multiple platforms), I would think they would be damaged by, or cause damage to, the LR-3220. Unless there's a 33/s equivalent to the 31/s side gear, I still think it's a misapplication. And that's some good news on the gears, but if I read that right, it's for the H233B fronts only (including your Diamond Axle SAS), right? No hope for some reverse cut 4.90 or 5.13/5.14 for the R50 R200A?