hawairish

Wait...I was pretty sure the plastic covers (02-04) all used the same coil packs for all positions. Also, I should add that my buddy has an 02 and there's an 03 engine in his truck. Casualty of the power valve screw. His swap was done by a shop, and I know with certainty it's drive-by-cable. I'll check with him if he remembers anything extra about the swap, but I really don't think there was anything special.

Yes, and then there were the valve covers...if I'm not mistaken, the coil packs in the 03-04 models are the same as the 02 models with the plastic valve covers. It's the 01 that had the aluminums where the #1 coil was different from coils #2-6 because of a boss on the cover. I want to say later 01 models had plastic valve covers, too. RockAuto shows a split at 7/01...might have classified as 02 models.

I agree there are some subtle differences, but is there certainty that they are what differentiate the newer from older engines, instead of just being part improvements that coincide with the model change? For instance, the cam sprockets have different p/ns, but the cams, camshaft sensors, and timing chains are unchanged...so would any cam sprocket variances be significant? Why would O2 sensors matter? You're reusing yours, plus the exhaust manifolds. Upper oil pan? That should only matter if the 03-04 transmissions changed mounting style. But, let's put it this way: if the shop has concern about differences, just go with it. Bottom line is they are different, but perhaps not enough to matter if you were to DIY. If you force them to pursue work based the interwebs, it's going to blow up in your face. There are surely plenty of 01-02 donors that will eliminate any guesswork, so I'd go that route.

If you're in the Corona or SoCal region, keep an eye out. Steven Lutz, of Rugged Rocks, had his truck stolen. https://www.facebook.com/steeevo85/posts/10159965155375471 Hope it's found, Steven!

There's another similar post the other day (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43916-some-quick-help-needed/). Most notable difference is 03-04 are drive-by-wire, everything prior drive-by-cable. So just bring over the throttle body and check for any coolant plumbing differences. Beyond that, they were pretty much identical. If anything else appears different, should be able to bring over from your engine. Bummer about the engine, though. What did it in?

We're talking the cable that connects to the parking brake shoes? If so, I have a set from a 94 I think. They don't have the springs at the ends (re-used for my disc swap), but you can re-use your spring. I can get some pics up if that'll help.

Check out the post about Land Rover springs for the rear, if you haven't already. Bummer about the engine being sold.

Worth every penny. I'd lock the front diff first, though.

I've got OME MD springs up front right now. It's time to overhaul my suspension, so I will be switching to OME HDs, among several other modifications front and rear. Having the engine in isn't terrible, though. I've run a few SFD sizes on my truck and installed on another. Nothing complicated, just time consuming. I'd say get it back on the road first. With a looming engine swap, that's already plenty of work to handle in one shot.

Thanks for the encouragement, fellas! As an update, I've requested quotes from local shops for the cutting services. The current quote from my steel supply shop is reasonable, but is only for two bracket sets plus some new front skids. I'm waiting for quotes for a batch of five sets before trying to determine a price, but I'm optimistically looking at a retail of under $200 for the brackets (unwelded), all hardware, and US shipping. Ideally, it would be best if I could mimic mounting points on the XJ (I believe that's what you meant), since there's no assurance that all aftermarket bumpers for the same vehicle use the same mounting points. But, I think eventually if the community can settle on specific bumpers (or vehicles) to use, then this is a possibility. The bracket would need a minor redesign to omit using a winch channel and shackle mounts. If anyone in my region wants to explore that as an option, it'd be helpful to have that bumper in hand to mock things up. It'll still be a several days until I can get brackets made, but in the meantime, I've been mocking up my bumper. Getting ideal angles was more annoying than I thought it would be. The overflow coolant tank limits the angle a little, but it's that stupid pre-airbox tank that makes you want to slap a Nissan engineer. Short of a plate bumper, there's no good looking way to protect it. Aside from sticking out in every direction, I also haven't figured out a simple way to re-work the bracket that supports it either, short of just drilling new holes. It will eventually be removed...thinking about a hidden snorkel. It'll probably get ripped off by a rock before that, though. Here's the full concept... Construction will be 1.5" x .120 sq. tube, and some same-sized angle steel on the top under the headlights and above the winch. The only modification to the bumper brackets is cutting the green pieces. (Though, I'm gonna cheat a little and just have those pieces cut to size when everything is made.) And in case you're wondering how the skids will turn out... Plates will be 3/16" this time around. The Pathfinder piece is a separate mini-skid for shielding the exposed power steering line on the VQ trucks. The material from the port openings is repurposed to create ribs on the skid—they'll be plug welded on the front, and stitch welded on that back. Both plates are notched so that I can just loosen the bolts a little and slide the plates off or on. My mid skid and missing link will eventually get reworked, but for now are in good shape.

My strut spacers are just two stacked 1.5" spacers, no angles involved. I've got a single set of camber bolts to align it.

This is correct. The cruise control unit is also cable driven, but I think the brackets and cable guides are shared with the cable for the TB. Either way, those brackets should already be on the 03 engine (they are on my 04). And definitely, not having a motor in the way would lighten things up and give super easy access to the motor mounts if installing an SFD.

Yes. The upper manifold is the same; the lower manifold is AT/MT specific. The blocks are the same, so I can't think of anything else that would be of concern.

Holy rust work! So glad I don't live in rust-prone environments! Though, I have to say that for a $400 USD panel available from Nissan, that's a very nice option. I didn't realize that was still available.

It should never be necessary to remove the steering wheel to address that issue. But in doing that, are you certain all wiring harnesses were reconnected? I presume the vehicle had the tires on the ground, preventing you from over-rotating the steering shaft and potentially damaging the clock spring. There isn't a correlation between changing ball joints and the steering wheel alignment. Even if you completely removed the spindle from the truck, having freed the outer tie rod from the knuckle, the length of the tie rods doesn't change unless you change it deliberately. Correcting the steering wheel position should have been done by adjusting the tie rod length on both sides; basically an alignment. If those were of equal length already, then you could have clocked the steering linkage between the steering rack and pivot box. If the steering wheel alignment was fine before starting work on the truck, then you'll need to think about other steps that would have affected alignment...there really aren't any when changing the ball joints. I find that my truck's steering wheel position is fairly sensitive to tire pressure, so an under-inflated tire appears to create pull on the vehicle. When you're in diagnostic mode, it either blinks the error code(s) or the no-error code. It's a very simple procedure, literally: open the door, turn the key to ON (engine not started), press the door jamb switch 5 times within 7s. The door switch needs to be functional, of course. If you're not sure, you can ground the terminal to the chassis. From the same link I provided, also see page RS-36 for the diagnostic codes. What is the blinking pattern you are seeing? Unless your OBD-II scanner has more diagnostic features, it can't read the SRS codes. I have diagnostic scanner that can read SRS codes, but neither my 98 Frontier or 04 R50 could be read by it. It's a separate module and system.

Dude! Glad you've found the next happy place in off-roading, and glad it was the R50 that got you there. Being a former JK owner myself, I totally get it...of course, there are still some Jeep things I don't want to understand. Thanks for the shoutout. Glad to have been of assistance. Pop in every now and then with some pics! Take care!

This didn't work? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43728-how-to-reset-airbag-light-98-pathfinder/?p=794309 What code is it throwing? If you're not getting one, then you're not in diagnostic mode; even "no code" has a code. But when if resetting it, if an issue still persists, it'll just throw that code again during the next self-test. What do you mean by "aligned my steering wheel"? Was it aligned before, and if so, how did that change during a ball joint change?

Coming from 4.363 gears, 5.14 and 35" are 1% off stock ratios, while 4.636 and 35" are 10% off. These are actual calculations, not guesses, btw. The percentage is what you'd expect in driveline losses, all other things being equal, but also the how far off your speedo will be. I don't doubt the 3.5L can turn them, but it'll add stresses across the board. (I'm an advocate of gear changes). If you really think you'll do an SAS any time soon, I wouldn't bother with the SFD. See what the truck can get you into and out of without it, and plan the SAS. Keep in mind you're coming from a unibody truck without a steering gearbox, and the lack of front ABS (assuming Wagoneer D44) may also warrant using the part-time transfer case, plus wiring harness, plus new interior panels. Of course, since you have the SFD kit on hand, installation can be done within a day, but it's also fund money for the SAS.

Sounds like that shop works on too many Jeeps. How's the pinion angle?

That's unfortunate, but also a little surprising. From the few others who have that much rear lift, it doesn't sound like that's been an issue.

Is it correctable with welded patch and/or re-drill? That was one of my concerns when I put the KrF bracket on my buddy's truck...it's a little tricky figuring out the hole alignment. A small misalignment translates into a larger one at the upper PH mount.

Thanks man! I can absolutely share these dimensions...like nearly all of my projects, I end up sketching things first, then building from those. So, it's just a matter of putting dimensions to sketch. I'll see what I can do about getting those posted up. If anything I need to remeasure the bolt hole positions in the floor...it's an irregular pattern. But everything else stayed true dimensionally. My welding skillz still need improvementz before I go making things for others, but I'm working on it.

Specifically about gearing, you're already limited. Yours has 4.363 stock, and your only option is 4.636. Nissan has OE 4.90s from Xterras that will work, but the front gears don't fit an R50. With a Dana, the 4.88 will pair fine with those, and there are aftermarket 5.13/5.14 options. For what it's worth, I run a 3" SFD, worn OMEs, front and rear lockers, 4.636, and 32". My only gripe is ground clearance; my front skid has paid the price. But, I've had zero issues with the IFS on red trails; approach and departure angles might be my most limiting factors. Nothing about my current setup has given me any grief whatsoever, but a SAS has been on my mind to improve the aforementioned issues, and provide a proper front drivetrain needs to run 35". But, IFS is going to beat out SA in ride quality any day. All CVs on all IFS (and IRS, for that matter) are prone to failure when outside of their normal operating angle, which all lifts (except SFD) contribute to. Manual hubs don't contribute to CV failure at all; they're just a tool to reduce drivetrain load. The QX4 transfer case is probably ok (lower gears than the part-time unit), but just has electrical components that can fail. The rest of the drivetrain is stouter than any Toyota offering (not counting older front straight axles). We should probably try to dispel a few notions about your truck; it can be a quite capable truck even in stock form.

The SAS is going to be what you make of it. Modifying that 3-link setup is synonymous with custom SAS. You may do all that work and it rides and tracks poorly. Same probably can't be said about an SFD...there's no guesswork; it's basically a body lift for half of the vehicle and the geometries and characteristics remain unchanged. Your real question is, "how is the Pathfinder IFS?", and the answer is, "as good as you might expect from an IFS system." I think your real consideration should be based on how you intend to use the vehicle, off-roading wise. Forget the "overlanding" blanket term for a moment; an SAS doesn't help you boil water at the end of the day. At 35" tires, you're at the limit with the R50. Not saying you can't go bigger—and I know others have—but at that point, you've maxed or exceeded useful range on wheel travel, gearing, and steering and suspension component stress.

Gotcha. Yes, a plate with more surface area and mounting holes would beef it up. Perhaps I could provide an optional plate and nut strip for those willing to drill more holes.