hawairish

Welcome! It's a good truck to look for, and you're asking the right questions. I'll take a stab at them. Check the strut towers for rust, as Astrorami mentioned. This was a recall item on older VG33 models, but not 100% sure it was an issue for VQ trucks. Doesn't hurt to check. The tower area will include where the top of the strut mounts, and the entire wheel well area basically. I'll add that other points I've seen are by the rear subframe mounts (where the tail of the lower control arm bushing is) and also the tail of the fenders, especially is the truck has any fairing or mud flaps there. Mine's a desert truck, but I've cleaned out tons of sand and dirt from the area. The IACV and ECU issues I think were only on 2000-2002 trucks, but don't quote me. Can't attest to any repair questions, though. Orange sticker is usually the best way to tell for LSD. If you've got a VIN, plug it in at nissanpartsdeal.com and check the Power Train > Rear Final Drive parts section. Results are filtered by VIN, so it references the LSD parts diagram, I'd presume it to have one. However, the LSDs were pretty weak. I've rebuilt a few to have much better numbers. I'd plan on inspecting the power valve screws for any year unless you know it's been addressed previously. I'd check the VIN plate on the motor to see if the motor has been replaced, the likely "fix" from a previous failure. I know of two 2002 trucks that have succumbed to it. Can't say I've seen a 5MT swap. The MTs were pretty rare, so that's probably a limiting factor, but they show up every now and then (another new member was just asking about this). I'd say it requires any typical amount of AT-MT swap effort. If starting from the All-Mode truck, yes, you'd likely have some complications because of input signals between the control modules. You'd have to bring over the MT's Part-Time system. That may open a different can of worms. I would assume a Z33 transmission would not work. One notable about the R50, in general, is that it deviates largely from other Nissans that you'd expect it to be more similar to. The VQ35 is one of those things...it's just different enough than the 350Z, FX35, and other RWD/AWD options.

You can do them all in a single trip, actually. Where did you get the manufacturer’s drive cycle, by chance? The Factory Service Manual outlines it in detail, but just checking if what you’ve got is from the FSM. Since you’ve gotten the other monitors ready, you can do the specific tests for those that aren’t ready.

Makes sense. Where does the tube from the water separator connect? Isn't that off the purge solenoid? If stuck open, maybe escaping there? Edit: Answered my own question. It connects directly to the purge valve, but another tube connects to the chassis as a vent. I vaguely recall on my Frontier that it did this, too.

Unfortunately, EVAP systems fly way over my head. I'd presume that since it's all plumbed together, a stuck-open valve/solenoid and failed canister could be a culprit, but I think the only vent area is near the canister, but ultimately near the filler neck. Is that the general area you're smelling it at?

I had the canister fail on my 98 Frontier, too. Cleaning the lines was a real crappy job. I flushed the hard lines with water, air, and even copper wire. One particular note is that if any of the charcoal reached the solenoids, I’ve found the solenoids to be repairable...far cheaper than replacements. My issue was a P1444/Evan solenoid clogged by the charcoal granules. Also, if you need a new EVAP canister, I’ll note that I got a 98 Maxima canister to work on my Frontier with minimal modification, and a 98 Pathfinder uses the same as the Frontier for that year...not sure if 97 was different...Maxima canister was like $30 instead of $150 for my truck.

Not sure on range, mostly only used in close group proximity. Though, I've been told I come in very clear.

I have the Midland 75-822 and I like it. Perhaps the only things I'd change would be a longer coiled cord, and for the backlight to be longer or persistent (or at least have the backlight button light up so it's visible in the dark). I particularly like the portability, since you can still put a short antenna (included) on it and use it in another vehicle without a permanent antenna being installed. Would also work fine with a magnetic base antenna. It actually comes with two battery packs: one for disposable batteries, and another for rechargeable batteries (includes the AC recharger, too), but I've not really needed to use the handheld modes. I ran my antenna connector to the center console so that I could use the 12V socket in there. Everything stores in there, too. There's just enough gap between the center console and lid latch to run the cord out (kind of snugs into position), but the length of the cord prevents me from mounting the mic unit somewhere on the dash. It usually just sits around the cup holders, draped over my leg, or clipped onto the seat belt strap across my chest. Maybe I'll make a mount for it it someday. My center console is looking a bit filthy. Antenna is the FireStik FL3-B, and I bought the FireStik MK-204R mounting kit (cable and door jamb mount), but ended up using my upper tire carrier hinge instead of the door jamb mount. Note that the cable required soldering at the connector, but it allows you to snake a 1/4" wire, rather than try to squeeze a 3/4" connector through small gaps. I routed my wire through the taillight grommet, into the interior quartpanel space, along the passenger side, then under the passenger seat. Initially, I put a twist-style Hustler QD-2 quick disconnect, but eventually forgot to remove my antenna before entering a parking garage and snapped it right at the base. I was able to repair it, but also added a Wilson antenna spring. So now it'll flex and can be removed easily: I bought an Astatic PDC1 SWR meter for tuning. Tuning is kind of a pain...the system is very sensitive to changes, and it takes a few iterations to dial it in.

Thanks. Rack is 50 lbs, tailgate is 16 lbs. Add it to the list of things for @TowndawgR50, lol. If he hasn’t built you one by next spring or summer, maybe I’ll bring one up. I was telling him that I’d like to make a trip up that way. I’m also thinking I may make another rack, but one that’s simpler for everyday use. This is great for outdoor excursions, but day-to-day, I need something that has a larger flat surface, and maybe some cubbies to drop stuff into, like groceries and other small purchases, to keep them from sliding around. I also ordered a generic/Chinese 54qt 12v freezer/fridge from Amazon yesterday...$390. Same item that Smittybilt labels as their Artic Cooler for $700. I figure it’s worth a shot, though I find it funny the generic cooler has great reviews, but the Smittybilt version has lousy reviews. Guess we’ll find out why! I’ll get some pics of how it looks on the rack when it comes it. Doubt there will be enough useful clearance to grab anything from the cooler, but for sure* it’ll fit. (*fitment not guaranteed, lol)

Alright, @RainGoat, this post is just for you, buddy! I was long overdue for some dimensions for you. I still need to put them together for the tailgate and mounting feet, but here you go...now get cracking! There are a few repetitive dimensions and concepts, at minimum from the visual learners like myself, but also to summarize the little aspects of the build. Material sizes are 1" sq. tube for the main framework, 1" x 1-1/2" tube for the back and bottom, and 1/2" sq. tube for the shelf supports. I think everything was 16ga (1/16") wall. Everything was kept to 1/4" increments and simple angles (45° and 22.5° cuts). If I had to do it again, I might use wooden panels for the shelves, like I did for the tailgate, instead of all the 1/2" tube...took too much time to cut pieces and weld together. But then again, it adds various tie-down points. Space conceptualization. There are about 4"-6" available above the tops, and about 3" more on the passenger side, but these values just represent the dimensions up to those of the rack. Top view by levels, and the diagonal dimension that allows it to clear the liftgate opening. Recall that the angles of the 2nd (green) and 3rd (cyan) level shelves are so that it can clear the D-pillars. The height of the rack is also the max allowable, assuming you use 1" mounting spacers like I did (details to follow).

Today I picked up 600 lbs of steel plate...enough to make the initial 6 bracket sets...and some skids plates. I'm still debating whether that means front or mid skids. For sure, I plan to make a mid skid to match my front skid. There might be some other revelations along the way. For now, still focusing on the remaining V2 tweaks. I'm still dividing my time across several projects to build up some confidence using the plasma table. I've not fired it up for a few days, but this week I will be cutting out the brackets and other items for my rear(!) bumper, which I (finally!) started last week. The truck has been without a rear bumper for months now, and the goal is to have it done before CANVAZ. Lots of work left to do!

Where da pics?! @Astrorami at that price, it's unbeatable.

That Mictuning relay box is slick. Haven't seen it before. You'll still need to distribute power in one way or another before the box since there's not a common rail. But still, get some proper crimpers and wire, and that's clean setup.

There shouldn't be any significant side-to-side wiggle for any position, but it seems possible you've got a rather smooth transition through neutral and that you're in the 4H position. In fact, if the lever were in N, and you put the transmission in park, you'd get a red ATP light on your dash. If you don't see that, you're probably in good shape. You could also crawl under the truck and inspect the shift linkage.

But if you can feel it going between 2wd and Auto, wouldn't that suggest that the lever is the 4H position? I think the system would fault on Auto mode if it wasn't (there's a N/4Lo sensor). Still, no dash lights? Also, I don't think your shifter requires depressing the lever...is it possible that it's just passing through neutral without providing any feedback through the lever? On the part-time system, it's pronounced, but I'm not familiar with the QX4 lever or switch (uh, well, aside from having a shift knob in my parts bin, and a newer selector switch controlling my air compressor and locks) Could you also recap your shift procedure? I presume you're stopped, engine running, and shifting from 4L to 4H? Is the 4wd dash light lit when the lever is all the way forward and switch set to Lock?

That Expedition Portal link...it's an okay read, but I wouldn't go past the first few pages unless you want to be suffocated by electrical theory and conversations rendered useless after people deleted their posts. I've seen some better links. I found this one especially useful for the basics: http://www.outbackcrossing.com.au/FourWheelDrive/Basic_Dual_Battery_System.shtml This post had a lot of pics: I dig @XPLORx4's setup, too. That's probably the route I'll probably take eventually, though I may run my camping accessories off it instead of having it solely for jumpstarts (but I would have a switch for that purpose, too).

Not a problem. We've had a few threads about shifting that have gotten interesting, to say the least, but we've had some spot topics come up. Your 97 QX4 is a little different than other R50/QX4 trucks since you have both a mechanical lever (positions H, N, and 4LO) plus an electronic switch (2wd, Auto, and Lock). 4H for you is H+Lock. When the shifter is in 4LO, though, the switch is disabled/bypassed. So if 4L works, I might suggest probing or cleaning the switch and seeing if that helps. Keep in mind the transfer case in yours has a motor to engage things, instead of a physical linkage, so it also relies on input from other sensors (and comm with the AT computer) before it'll act on drivetrain requests. Are you also basing engagement on the 4wd dash light(s), or are those lights indicating any issues? Also, may want to look at the Owner's Manual, or the Transfer Case chapter of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) (specific links for 97 QX4 embedded into this sentence) for some additional info or guidance.

If you can't depress the shifter any further, or don't feel the shifter pop back up/out, then it's probably still in neutral. Transmission out of gear when trying to engage 4L?

Find a new shop. Stephen Pearson probably deals mainly with Jeeps, and always has issues with Nissans and Toyotas because he doesn’t know what he’s doing. Absolutely no practical difference between those trucks and any other trucks. No joke, shop elsewhere, or risk this guy screwing something up to prove his point. Only things you need to give thought to are backspacing, center bore, and lug nut style. Most steelies take acorn lug nuts and have large center bores to allow them to fit all vehicle makes. That means you’ll likely need hub-centric rings. You can buy them on Amazon or eBay or wherever; they’re a couple bucks for a set of 4. You’ll likely need 100mm-106mm or 100mm-108mm. For the steelies I ran on my 98 Frontier long ago, the center caps somewhat served a centering purpose because they installed between the wheel and hub. I never had balancing issues. Keep in mind that you may have some issues installing both hub-centric rings and center caps like this since they’ll occupy the same space. Also, don’t rely solely on the lug nuts to center the wheel. Your OE nuts are acorn style, but you might not be able to re-use them unless they're tall enough. Aluminum wheels have thicker mounting surfaces than steel, so short lugs may bottom out on the wheel stud. If your OE lug nuts reach, or almost reach (~1/8”) the wheel hub when the wheel isn’t installed, you’re probably okay. If you do need new ones, they’re M12x1.25. Not too relevant here, but only notable with Toyotas are when dealing with their mag-style nuts. The basic solution is to just change them to acorns. In my case, I run 17x8 4Runner alloys on my Frontier now...I use 100mm-106mm hub rings and mag-style lugs on it. Works fine.

If you're just confirming diff (front or rear) operation, leave it in gear, leave it in 4wd. Taking out of gear or putting in 2wd (front diff), the differential will do its job of rotating anything that's willing to rotate. If you hold one tire stationary and turn the other, the driveshaft spins. If you rotate both tires in the same direction, the driveshaft spin. If you rotate the tires in opposite directions, the driveshaft won't spin (unless the speeds are unbalanced or there is excess friction in the carrier).

Thanks, Kent! Frankly, I have too many projects in mind. Electrical projects tend to exhaust me the most, though. Thanks, and no problem. There are actually a lot of enclosures available that can be used for stuff like this. This particular example consumes a lot of space (I'd put that panel around 8" x 12"), more useful for a trailer or camper. That Bussman panel is a good overall solution because it uses the mATC fuses, has smaller relays, and all of the connections on the backside include waterproof plugs (the case itself also has a sealing gasket). True. But, in terms of electrical projects, there's nothing fun about later having to troubleshoot shoddy wiring work or otherwise undoing rats nests.

Either transmission, if the driveshaft isn't held stationary, it might spin before the opposite tire does; both might spin, too. Think of it in terms of path of least resistance. Hold the driveshaft stationary, though, and the opposite tire will spin. For the front, it's held stationary when in 4wd; for the rear, when in gear, park, or drive.

Presuming it's your front diff, the driveshaft is spinning instead of the tire when you're in 2wd. By putting it into 4wd, the driveshaft is held stationary, forcing the opposite wheel to spin. If it's the rear diff, same concept, but whether in P or 4wd, the rear driveshaft is stationary so the opposite tire will spin. Condition normal in both cases.

Yeah, I wasn’t about to pass it up. The pre-order was a frenzy...they sold out of the first batch at $795 within a minute or two. I luckily got in on that before it jumped to $895. Got an Everlast PowerPlasma 50s. Langmuir has tutorials for using Autodesk Fusion 360 for the CAD and CAM, and Mach3 as the g-code sender. I’m not a fan of either, but am still learning.

Langmuir Systems CrossFire. They conveniently popped up right around the time when I was having frustrations with local shops. They did a pre-order sale in March, paid $1K shipped with water tray. They'll start selling at retail price ($1495) later this year. The cutting area isn't huge (25" x 23") but I'm holding hope that they follow through on an expansion kit. It's a low frills unit, but was significantly cheaper than other available tables of similar cutting size. It's already come in handy for some brackets and gussets.

I scanned through about 10s of that video and was already exhausted. Way too much work; what he saved in parts, he spent in labor. Maybe I need to get into making relay panels.