SpecialWarr

I overheard a worker that inspections were going to be instituted in the next few years and that anything "non-compliant" is going to be pulled off the roads.... overheard at the SAAQ Ste-Agathe last year when I was waiting to register the Xterra!

Being in Colorado you might but it was a real problem up here in Canada / the Rust Belt. IT's pretty dry over that way that far inside the country so I would think that you should be alright. Either way you can always have someone weld up a set of plates to the outside after some rust removal ( as needed) whereas we can't do that here in Quebec ( welcome to the "california regulations" of the north). IF you feel that you _must know_ grab a flatblade screwdriver and start stabbing away at the frame under the truck.... if the blade penetrates then you need them... if it bounces off, your good to go.

That seems like a low fuel pressure to me; I was thinking that the correct pressure was 43 at idle and 50+ above 2400 rpm.... someone correct me if I'm wrong! That it idles fine but then runs like crap would maybe be a plugged filter in the engine bay? At least that's where I would start because those filters are cheap, eazay to get to and you only need a star screwdriver to get them off.

I have both the front fenders, fender flares and mud guards in the back of the X for you @adamzan along with the slightly split, grey, drivers' arm rest and bolt.

The rest is pretty bad after sitting in the woods for the last 6 years. No interior other than seats, no center console, no tires, no diff at this point. Windshield is cracked and the door and window seals are all toast. The two front panels are still there and intact, The hood has been hit with a small tree though so that's got a dent and none of the carpet / hood foamy-carpet-fire-resistant stuff in intact.

You need a center arm-rest or the door arm-rest @adamzan? I need the diff out of the Pathy for the X and the rest of the car is going to be scrapped very soon afterwards due to town bylaws and whatnot..... anyone need any relays, harness bits or whatever that big fuse thingy off of the battery is called?

Thanks for the heads up and info. The WD21 is definitely an LSD ( tested on jack stands while adding a lift kit from Steve Fleury) so there shouldn't be a problem there, 11 stud vs. 9 stud is an interesting new development though.... My regular mechanic is not a Nissan guy per se so there are a few things that he has trouble with ( he/ they mostly work on Ford/ Chev/ Dodge/ Honda) the alignment for instance but he is across the street from where I work so the convenience factor is powerful! As for me, I've never pulled off a diff, so I am completely in the dark about who's which goes where other than there are bolts and brake lines that need to come off to be able to pull the diffs out!! Again, thanks for the info and I'll drop a line again as soon as I can get the diff out of the WD21 and into the hands of the transmission specialist and I'll let you all know how everything went.

I agree with @adamzan most reliable and probably my most trustworthy vehicle.... not the smoothest, fastest or most comfortable but as reliable as my Estwing hammer. Same reason I bought the '01 Xterra although I need to keep working on the X to get it into trustworthy status..... we close though!

@hawairish Thanks for the writeup boss! Great info for those of us who are noobs to the whole diff rebuilding world. Not to hijack your thread or anything( he said, totalllly hijacking the thread), but I figured that since I am in need of a diff for my '01 Xterra (WD22) with the H233 (4.63 gears right now) and I still have my WD21 from 1990 also with the H233 and running 4.63 I would ask anyway! The problem is is that the diff in the X growls on the gas at any speed over 80km/hr and I hate that because it makes me nervous. Question 1: can I swap out the side gears from the WD22 to the assembly from the WD21? keeping the axle shafts, seals and side gears from the WD22?? OR am I crazy for thinking that that's possible??? The problem with the X is that the pinion bearing has been so badly abused by the previous owner that it has 2-3mm of vertical play at the front flange and just started to leak oil last week..... the semi-local diff and transmission guy has basically told me that parts are not available this year, are difficult to find when they are available and are in limited quantities if they are even findable so I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. What I do have is a fully functional WD21 sitting in the woods that I own ( but got pulled off the road for safety reasons due to rust issues). IF I can actually pull both rear differentials; Question 2: what else _should_ be done to get the WD22 back up and running while we are in there??

worst case, I can pull the one out of the 1990 and ship it to you.

Vampire bat? They tend to consume power... you might want to try a fruit bat next time! Seriously though: I would think that a plug has come undone since full power comes direct to switch at the column and most of the time only one circuit cuts out ( as the fine gentlemen above noted) except for that one guy who lost both high and low beams at the same time.... guy from Saskatoon?

It should since most of the difference is forward of the trans output shaft. It might be a bit of an issue if you also want to swap from a manual to an autobox because of the trans computer, but otherwise I see no real problems with another trans of the same model ( different vehicle, year, spec is okay... as long as it has the RE401 in the same configuration).

You might want to consider 3d printing one if you know someone who does that! Although I admit that I live in the airplane capital of Canada so _everyone_ has a something super trick like that around here.

A roof rack is an excellent reason to make yourself an exocage!