Mr. Pickles

Stuck?! That's not stuck!

A reciever hitch.

Eclipse is the way to go. I'm on my second one. Absolutely no skipping other than with completely fubar'd cd's. I've had Sony (skipped all the time, especially from the bass), Alpine (good, but the display died), JVC (ok, but had some gremlins that nobody could figure out), Pioneer (good bang for the buck), Clarion (aftermaket- awesome, stupid me left it in when I sold the car). But out of them all, I like the Eclipse best. Straight forward features and operation, and unbeatable sound and anti-skip. Good for jamming while off road.

Probably close to, but not quite, max for on-road, and lower (or MUCH lower) off road, depending on if you're in mud, sand, etc. shouldn'd you use the published pressure that is written in the door jamb? If you're running the same stock tires, then yeah, go by what Nissan says. If not, then you need to go by the tire manufacturer's specs as Nissan can't anticipate every combo of size, design, etc. that we'll put on a Pathy.

Come on, Mr. Moneybags, you know you want to. Any idea what the added cost of the valvetrain work, along with anything else that pops up, would bring the bottom line too? Quite a bit, I imagine.

Um, if I remember right, the orange illumination wire is NOT a ground. Its a power input used to illuminate the deck when the headlights are turned on so you can see the buttons and such in the dark. I've always spliced this into the remote (blue) wire if the car doesn't have an illum wire so that the deck is fully lit whenever its on. This was on Sony and Eclipse decks.

Check this out. Tire rack

Probably close to, but not quite, max for on-road, and lower (or MUCH lower) off road, depending on if you're in mud, sand, etc.

Once your Pathy is running well, tires are definately the biggest bang for your buck upgrade. You'll get the most difference in performance and ability to get places you couldn't before with a good set of all terrain or mud terrain tires.

I had a problem once whole driving with the windows down at night. Drove many miles home and just as I was pulling off the offramp, the thing popped open from the cross wind I suppose. Scared the ^%$$!!! out of me for sure! Guess it just wasn't fully latched. Don't know if that's a common problem though.

I'll try. My home computer is still kinda FUBAR'd.

ECU Sticky There's also some stuff in the Project Corner of Jim's old site, MrJim.net. MrJim.net- Project Corner ECU

That engine is looking WAAAY too clean! :allclean:

I was quoted anywhere from $160 (Napa) to $250 (Schucks) for the knock sensor. It ran about $500 parts and labor. There is a write up on here if that is indeed your problem. I just didn't have the time, shop, etc. to do it. But yes, check your codes. Very quick and easy to do.

Borrowing 88Path's idea, I used some bed rails I bought off of Ebay for like $10. They want a fortune for them brand new, about $80-100. They were for a 96 or so GMC Sonoma/Chevy S10. I just flipped them over, and had to do a little slight trimming. But being aluminum, you can just use tin snips or avation shears. I mounted them using, of all things, heavy duty 3M double back tape from Home Depot. I ran the tape, as well as some strips of weather stripping, vertically so that any water that gets in there flows straight through. They've been on for a few months now with no problems. They cover from most of the inside the doorjam to way under the rockers, just about to the edge of the body, and from fender well to fender well. Looks pretty tough in my opinion.

When you save the pic, change the file type from .bmp (Bitmap) to .jpg (JPEG).

Maybe cut some cheap rubber floor mats?

The stereo fuse should be in the box under the steering wheel in the cab. Suggestions for power would be to check the fuse and all connections at the harness obviously. Also, there may be an inline fuse for the aftermarket stereo. Suggestions for the old CD eating stereo would be a hammer.

There's a brand, I think Krylon, that makes a "Fusion" line specifically for painting plastic. Black could be cool, maybe even that anodized black stuff that has a little shimmer in it. Then slap on the good ol' Type R sticker...

Yeah, but it was at their approved shop. I wasn't gonna screw with fixing it, so it was either take it to a shop of my choice, which I probably should have done, or go to their shop and have everything guarunteed for as long as I own the truck (Progressive Insurance). I took the latter, as I didn't have any hook-ups at any local shops anyways. In the end, they should have just let me get the parts. The body shop gave the insurance the shaft on the final bill. :contract:

Definately replace the T belt while you're in there. I think there was a write up a long time back on T belt replacement, which should help you along with the whole deal. Maybe I'm wrong though, and you should write one up when you do your new project. :type:

I thought so too, but it looks like AC sells the pair and the other site sells them individually. I was thinking about these when my Pathy was wrecked, but the insurance co. wasn't too keen on that idea. sly

Interesting... look at the price and pic on JDub's post, then here. Looks like AC is using the same ones.

Oooh, fun! I just did some similar to this under the rear doors. I was thinking about sticking on some of the smallest thickness weather stipping I can find between the flares and the body. Maybe that could help, as I'm seeing the rubbing and scratching of the paint you're talking about. I just used the gold color "hammered look" Rustoleum which was close enough since I covered the area with aluminum diamond plate like 88Path did.

Nice. This is probably the simplest and cheapest preventative maintenance. I use the high mileage oil and change it at 3K miles pronto in both the Pathy & Camry. People get on me about how I don't need to, especially with that oil. But I don't listen. Sure, over the course of a year it may cost me and extra $20, but its worth it for the peace of mind. Besides, I did the same in my last Nissan and ran over 250K miles without a single engine problem. That says enough to me. Maybe the additives help on an already tired motor, but that's up to you.