Mr. Pickles

I've heard that you have to lean on the dealer a bit to get them to budge. Of course they don't want to pay the bill for a repair when they think they can get out of it. Apparently its a "good will" type repair for Nissan, and they don't like to advertise it and pretend that it doesn't exist. Gather up some info and go at them prepared. I've seen posts out there in internet land of people that have had it done.

Be sure to check your blinker fluid while you're at it.

Those should fit. I have about the same Pilots on my Pathy, and they're fine and way brighter than stock. FYI- I paid $24.95 for mine at GI Joe's (local auto and sporting goods store). Actually, I just went and did a rought measure on mine. They're about 5 x 1 3/4 inches, so the ones you're looking at are a tad bigger. They still may fit, although some "adjustment" or trimming may be needed. Probably no biggie though.

Search is your friend. Backspacing thread I believe the bolt pattern is called 6 on 5.5

Definately change the brake lines at the wheel. I had the same exact feeling you described. The caliper would grab and pull the truck, and it would get super hot. I drove it for a bit not being able to put my finger on the problem and one day the thing self destructed. Very nearly locked up while on the freeway forcing me to turn the steering wheel a quarter turn right to go straight, and by the time I could pull off, it was already almost glowing hot. You could feel the heat from a good 2 feet away! Come to find out, the brake line that was supposed to have been replaced previously when I got new calipers (about 1 1/2 years before at Midas) didn't get swapped and failed. The thieving bastards wouldn't cut a break and it was stuck there, so I had to pay (again!) for new calipers and rotors cause they were cooked. Moral of the story: cheap to replace the hose, expensive to replace the whole caliper and rotor.

There's lots of little things, but they will only get you to a point. These trucks are only good for about 18mpg (about 7.64km/liter?). Tune up including good plugs, clean air filters, proper tire pressure, remove any dead weight (extra cargo you don't need), a good oil change, etc. etc. These things will also help restore any lost power that comes from being out of peak shape.

I used heavy duty 3M double backed tape, the strongest stuff they make. They've been on for a few months with no problems. When that stuff is on there, its ON THERE.

I did the trimming. Just pop off the black rocker switches to reveal the white plastic switch below. If the white switch works, trim the rocker and you're done for free. If not, then proceed on from there (check the plugs, look for another switch, etc.). Good luck.

Here (Seattle area) we have to go to a state place, there are no private ones. So you have to go sit in line for what, half hour-1 hour to test, then stay in your car while they test you. Then you get to drive across town to waste more time at the DMV or a privately owned licensing place that gets to tack on an extra charge. So while its pretty cheap, it can easily take several hours to jump through the hoops. But that's government bureaucracy at its best. :oops:

D'oh! Its a 2000.

This from our new friend zzpromozz, who posted in the new member section: "The stock harmonic balancer is bad with only 49K miles, anybody else had trouble with this and do you know any aftermarket suppliers that offer a better product. This is rather bizarre. "

Fiberglas so you can turn it into a boat. That or clean it. :allclean:

Its incredibly easy, just look under your truck. They bolt on top and bottom. There is a ton of info. on here about shocks, especially Ranchos, including the size needed. Use the search function.

I have a Yakima rack set-up that 2-3 pairs of skis plus a snowboard, don't know how many pairs of just skis. I just thought for the price somebody may be interested. I generally ski Crystal Mt. in WA.

$40?! Ouch! Its $15 here, and you get another test free if you fail the first time.

Never knew this was an option. It has a Nissan logo, so who knows. Says it came off a 95, and the price is nice. Ski Rack Yes, I'm having a boring day. :asleep:

It may help in your search if you mention what kind of bolts you're looking for, and what the application is.

Home Depot? :X

130K isn't really too high miles for a Pathy. Maybe for the year, about 22K per year (if as a 99 it was sold in 98), but it should keep going for a LONG time to come.

For sure. I had shocks replaced at Les Schwab a few years ago on another ride and they charged $7 each for install. You could probably find stock shocks for around $25 each, so $125-150 would be in reach. The install really is super super easy and quick to do yourself though.

If you have a bad smell from the exhaust, along with poor running or dying, maybe check to see if your cat is clogged. Had that happen on an old Mitsu truck and it would run poorly while moving, but die when you stop.

I figured teflon, just wanted to run it by people in case tranny fluid would disolve it or something crazy. I ended up getting bronze 90 degree fittings that were the perfect size and thread. I wanted to pull the originals, but they were brass threads with copper tubing, and the tubing just bent bad. Good enough, I'm about to burn the car anyways. Once this is fixed, we're trading the car in. Really, its been a great reliable car and will be a great buy for a guy with a wrench. Its been well maintained. 160K miles on an 89 Toyota is just getting broken in. But we're trying to get out of the 20's college mode of dealing with old crap and want something newer that will be around for a while.

I need to get through working on this P.O.S. so I can get back to the Pathfinder. I spent the afternoon replacing the radiator on our Camry which decided to die. In and out in about an hour and a half hour, then about the same amount of time running back to Napa and dealing with these 2 fittings. The radiator has a built in tranny cooler in the bottom with brass fittings that screw in to connect the lines to the tranny. The ones that came with the radiator where too long, so I got shorter replacements. But on the old and new ones, I can't get a good seal and it leaks fluid. The question is, do I need to be using teflon tape or something on these? Any other ideas to solve this? Its all together and leak free other than this issue. There are no directions to speak of for the radiator.

Everybody says they work just fine. Search for body lift info. Statikuz, among others, has a lot of info. on the install.

Yeah, the Jeep GC springs and tbar crank are very cheap and easy to do with basic tools.