Mr. Pickles

If its just until its warm, its could just be condensation in the exhaust turning to steam. Maybe stretch a light rag (like a old white tshirt or something) across the tail pipe for a sec to see what collects.

Don't know off hand, but the idea of progressively putting in larger fuses is a BAD idea. Its not a solution, only covers up the problem of why the fuse keeps popping, and could cause damage.

If you believe everything a sales person tells you, you'll surely be putting a lot on his table and less on yours.

Dude, I'd go after them loaded with info. I just ran a general 94 SE with 120K miles at www.kbb.com in my zip (98030) and it came back with $7175 retail value. Their insurance should be replacing your vehicle with a like model and year, not screwing you and making you come up with a couple grand difference. Go after them! :contract:

Here's a very basic start. Part 1 Part 2

As long as its low and concealable, grind it, chemically treat it, cut it, weld it, do whatever. Then prime and paint it with the proper rust inhibitors and treatments, and cover it up with the diamond plate bed rails from a late model Chevy S10/GMC. I used some from a 96 that came cheap on Ebay and with a little trim work, fit and look great. Plus they cover up the scars and repair work nicely.

Sorry, just me and my beer spewing a wise@$$ comment. I'll worry about the swaybar first.

Holy crap dude, the guy may not be lying, but walk away. You could get a decent brand new alarm installed with all the features, if its on sale, or at least relatively close. $150 is insane!!! Check around here, but I believe some people may have had luck buying an alarm remote on ebay for cheap, then resetting/reprogramming the alarm. Don't shoot me if I'm wrong, but I swear I heard something like that. But even if not, for $150 you should be looking at a new aftermarket alarm system.

Time for a big@$$ screwdriver and a BFH, I do say. You know I'm not above some ghetto isht.

If its bad, I aim the outside air vents on the dash at the windows. The air bounces back anyways.

Also, is there any recommendation on changing out the strut rod bushings? I seem to remember hearing they're a PITA.

Good call on ordering from a local shop. I just ordered them from Central 4 Wheel Drive here in Kent, WA, for $25. With the holiday and apparently a slight back order, he said they'd be here by next Friday. Fine with me cause I wasn't going to put them on till after then anyways. One thing: he said it specified for a 24 millimeter swaybar for the Pathy, with no other listings. Does anybody know if there is a different one so I don't end up with the wrong thing? I doubt it, but figured I'd better ask.

You forgot the beer for the after party. Also helps solve the cussing and busted knuckles, at least for a bit.

A Flowmaster 40 (that's what I have, but probably just about any Flowmaster would do it) will give you a nice low rumble for a V6.

Has anybody tried these? Ebay kit

I'm getting ready to swap out some tired front end stuff, including sway bar bushings at the links and frame, and possibly ball joints, etc. The swaybar bushing in particular, as they're visibly cracked and tired, and I can physically move the bar at the frame mount on the driver's side a tad by hand. Has anybody tried the poly sets available from AC and other places? I've never done poly replacements, and am wondering if its going to stiffen things up too much vs. regular rubber ones, as I'm just looking to freshen things. I want to pick 1 type and then do them all the same way hopefully. Your thoughts?

Air shocks help big time and they're pretty cheap. Add air when carrying a heavy load, then release some pressure when driving normal. Or just leave them full for a bit of a lift like I did till I got the JCG springs. Mine are Gabriel brand, and they run somewhere around $65 or so last I saw.

Mmm... *wipes saliva from chin*

Also, for frame rust, go to the rear wheel well and find the factory holes in the frame. Stick your finger in and see how it feels. Mine is pretty nasty in there, and I need to get after it.

Check it out. Grill guard

Half ways joking. I'd think you're on the right path of guesstimating how much additional you'd need, then fine tune the amount until you're at the right level. Once you determine the amount the first time, you're good to go from then on out.

Not to mention, good luck finding a strong 30' strap at the local store. We had a 15' one, minus whatever length it took to get to hood to the reciever and under the car to a solid mount. That's some scary white knuckle stuff towing on a 12' foot line!

Isn't that why you have a dipstick?

Nope, nothing much other than AC at 4x4parts.com or Ebay. Summit Racing has some stuff too. Other than that, you'll be doing a lot of hunting.

How much did they set you back and do you have a link to check out thier product? Joey Check on Summit Racing's website.