Mr. Pickles

Why buy a Fram knock off of a K&N when you can buy a K&N for the same price? :secret:

My understanding is that when it the sensor is "bad" it is stuck with the "knock" reading and proceeds to mess with the timing and/or fuel in an attempt to keep the engine from knocking, even though it isn't. Not sure if this is really the case, maybe somebody could elaborate. I know that when mine was toast and threw the code, it wouldn't really idle but would drive relatively normal, and it got horrible mileage.

Remove the offending panel, then run some thin weather stripping along any portions that make contact with the body or other panels. Cheap and easy fix for many annoying squeaks, as well as vibration from bass.

I'd say there are 2 things you shouldn't screw around with and try to ghetto rig in a car, but instead should be fixed right.. Brakes cause no matter how badly it runs, it needs to stop, and the fuel system, cause well, it has this nasty tendency to ignite.

I'm not fully sure how it does what it does, but its located under the intake in the V of the block. PITA to get to, but there's a write up on here on how to change it out. I didn't have the time or garage to swap mine when it went out, and it ended up costing like $550 in parts and labor (actually, I had a leak fixed while they were in there as well).. :o The stupid sensor alone is over $150 easily.

BigMike, I feel you there. My 85 Nissan 4x4 with 255K miles was sold to a group of Mexican immigrants who came over from Wenatchee, WA. They were more than proud of that beastly truck and I'm sure it has treated them well. Stock as can be, minus some trimmed fenders and 31's riding beneath. That's some appreciation of a solidly built truck. I can just about guaruntee you that old truck is still tooling around over there with 300K+ miles, if its taken care of.

Is this a common problem for anybody? I was crawling around underneath today cranking on suspect bolts, and the passenger side compression rod was loose by several turns while the drivers side stayed still. The bushings for both seemed pretty solid, and free of any cracking.

Me too, and I have a (ghetto) solution that works. Grab a bit of small cardboard like a cereal box, then fold it up nice and tight into maybe a half inchx 3/4 inch bundle, then wrap that in a layer of electrical tape. Finally, stuff the sunovabieotch into the gap between the windshield and dash, and between the dash and A column. Shove it nice and hard to hide it. Believe it or not, it works like a charm.

Tell that to my brother and his '02 Silverado 1500, which is driven mildy on low-pro street tires, yet has nasty engine knocking, some squeeling and vibration, and may be looking at a new tranny (luckily under warranty). Or my old Oldsmobile in college (one of the biggest P.O.S.'s every built). Or my dad's old 88 GMC, which couldn't seem to keep a tranny under it. Or my grandfather's '04 Chevy Silverado 3500 which is apparently already have issues in its first year. Or the much glamorized new Goat that just got its nuts handed to it by the new Mustang in Car and Driver, even though it had a 100hp advantage. Or Consumer reports, which regularly puts all American brands toward the bottom of the heap. I wait for the day when American car companies can finally pull their heads out of the 70's and 80's and give us a decent RELIABLE product. I'd like to see a comparo of say, a couple 200K mile Nissans and Toyotas VS. a group of 200K mile GM's, Ford & Dodge's. That would be fun. In the meantime, I'm happy as can be with my Pathy and an upgrade from a Toyota to an Acura. Maybe I'll get a Titan somewhere down the road when its time to retire the Pathy. But I surely wouldn't risk my money and patience on a domestic truck.

Just hit you the bolts and such with WD-40 ahead of time and it will be a quick, wham-bam swap. Follow 88's instructions, its straight forward.

Wow, that's great. Another FrankenPathy success.

Is that something like a garden troll in your rectal region?

Calm down man. Its no biggie, really. First off, check the fuse box to see if you blew the fuse for the cig lighter while trying to wire in. Locate where you previously tapped into the wiring and see if you damaged the wire to cause the loss of power. Next, if you're not at all comfortable with wiring, you may want to find a friend or somebody close by that is. Seriously though, this is about the most straight forward and easy auto electrical you'll find. I just checked my truck (a 94 SE), took all of maybe 2 min's to pull the dash and test (drop a line if you don't know how to pull the center of the dash). I have a green wire with a red stripe, and a black wire to the cig lighter. The green/red is the + (positive) wire. Even if yours is the same, test this anyways, cause you never know what some P.O. may have pulled off. You can even rig a test light with an auto light bulb and 2 wires if you're desperate. If it is different, you can still test the circuit. Run your test light's ground to a solid piece, such as the door hinge (prettty much any bare metal with no paint) and carefully probe the 2 ends of the wire at the cig lighter to find the +. So now you hopefully have your wiring figured out. You may have to cut a bad section out and/or splice in a new good section of wire. That should hopefully send you on your way. Happy hunting.

Nah, some of the Sway-A-Way t-bars have been known to break during normal use for no apparent reason, or because they got nicked or scuffed, which allowed a tiny crack to grow and grow until it finally breaks the bar in half. Well, sunovamuthafukinkismahaszbul@!*%e. That sure isn't good news for a guy that has those bars and has been known to *accidentally* jump his Pathy on occassion. Damndamndamn... especially since they were from AC, and they had some knicks right out of the box.

"Stolen from kits sad"? And a happy wave? What are you saying here?

What would you guys say to the Pacesetters for $217 + 15 shipped? There's a guy on Ebay selling them all day for that. I know, I'll get rocked on the apparent ghetto-ness, but for the $$$, would it matter that much? Jim has them, and I'm sure other people do too. I'm west coast with a lot of us guys, so rust isn't much of an issue. I'm basically looking at half the price, which is a good thing at this point. My passenger side manifold is starting to leak again after maybe 2 years, yet I'm also trying to budget things. I'm looking at the headers, finally a 3" body lift, whatever else decides to die on me, new tires in a couple months, plus another vehicle, a vacation next week, and a mortgage. Are there any true horror stories available, or is it all just "I heard from a guy" type stuff?

Yep, you probably just clipped too far into a wire. The cig lighter is about the simplest switched source to tap into. Just to make sure, you said "not to interrupt the power flow." What do you mean by this? Do you need constant power ("12v constant" or "battery") or do you really need switched (a power source that is only on when the key is in the accessory or "on" position)? You can buy a test light for cheap, hell you can pick them up at the Dollar Store. Locate your +, then use a wire splice rather than cutting the insulation or crimping in. You can get them cheap at any auto parts store, or at least use a butt splice for a solid connection. You're looking for trouble when you start blindly hacking into your wiring and chopping up the insulation.

I like the stiffer ride personally. I've got a couple inches of lift out of this (Jeep GC coils in back and Swayaway Tbars up front) and it corners better than on stock suspension at stock height. Its goes just fine off road and is much more firm and confidence inspiring on the highway when that aging and sloppy suspension goes away. I'm thinking a guy breaking a torsion bar is doing some serious stuff that shouldn't be attempted in a street legal truck anyways.

Mine don't seem to like cold weather particularly, and will start up the act about this time of year. I've heard of many others with the same thing. But haven't tried the lube action. I'm gonna have to give that a try as well.

Have you pulled the codes from the computer? That would be a huge head start here. Your truck is trying to tell you something is screwed. Could be many things, including the o2 sensor and a whole laundry list of stuff people can come up with. Check for codes

Say it ain't so! :o

Don't worry about being a pain, that's why this place is here. We were all still (or still are) there. I was quite the NOOB a while back, as have been many people. I'm just trying to help you along, and point out the tools at hand. Each section has a "sticky" section at the top with common problems, issues, mods, etc. The search feature will pull up tons of info. once you get used to using it. And if you don't see it here, try looking at the Damagedreality forums as well as the NPORA's main page, www.nissanpathfinders.com. From what I've gathered, you don't necessarily need the shocks if you're on-road and just doing it for looks. If you're wheeling at all, I'd bet you'd want to go to the longer ones though so you don't over-extend the stock ones and blow them out. Mine already had long air shocks in the rear when I got it, and they had the extension that I've needed so I haven't had a problem. Anyways, post away and learn a ton. There's all sorts of valuable knowledge here.

Yeah, I followed 88's advice and went with the Jeep GC coils in back, along with cranked Tbars and an alignment up front. 6 months later, and no problems. And it cost me about $90 including the cost of alignment. The upper control arms go for in the $200's and up. If you have the money, go for it, but if not, you can get by for now. Some day, some day...

Here's a quick hint before you get flamed by people. Here's a quick hint before you get flamed by people. First off, only post once. It gets to be a mess, especially for others trying to follow the thread or search later on about the same topics covered. Use "Search" and try sticking to questions on 1 topic at a time. Its gonna be a mess if you have 25 different people jumping in with answers to specific questions withing your post. I'll start at the beginning: Jeep GC coils are for the back only. Your front suspension has torsion bars instead of coil or leaf springs, and they can be adjusted to provide a small amount of lift before additional parts are required (ball joint spacers or new upper control arms, etc) to correct the excessive suspension angles caused by heavy cranking of the Tbars. I believe there are stickies on these in the garage and/or 90-95 areas of the forum. Also go to the Damagedreality forums (you can find a link in the signature of 88pathoffroad, he runs it and has posts all over the place). Here you will find in-depth info. on the Jeep coil install, what coils work, how to do it, etc. etc. And yes, these can be used along with body lifts. For body lift install, look for the how-to post by Statikuz and others (again, using Search). Bigger rim sizes generally equal much more money for the same overall diameter tire, and most people stick to 15" rims instead and increase the tire size. Say you have the same overall diameter at the tread, a 15" rim will use a taller but cheaper tire, while a 16" rim will need a shorter profile yet more expensive tire. With both lifts installed you can roll 32" on 15" rims no problem, 33"s may require some minor triming around the bottom of the fenders. No biggy though. So.... separate out the rest of your questions, and you'll probably get a better response. And be sure to use the search feature on the upper right of the forum board.

Here's a quick hint before you get flamed by people. First off, only post once. It gets to be a mess, especially for others trying to follow the thread or search later on about the same topics covered. Use "Search" and try sticking to questions on 1 topic at a time. Its gonna be a mess if you have 25 different people jumping in with answers to specific questions withing your post. I'll start at the beginning: Jeep GC coils are for the back only. Your front suspension has torsion bars instead of coil or leaf springs, and they can be adjusted to provide a small amount of lift before additional parts are required (ball joint spacers or new upper control arms, etc) to correct the excessive suspension angles caused by heavy cranking of the Tbars. I believe there are stickies on these in the garage and/or 90-95 areas of the forum. Also go to the Damagedreality forums (you can find a link in the signature of 88pathoffroad, he runs it and has posts all over the place). Here you will find in-depth info. on the Jeep coil install, what coils work, how to do it, etc. etc. And yes, these can be used along with body lifts. For body lift install, look for the how-to post by Statikuz and others (again, using Search). Bigger rim sizes generally equal much more money for the same overall diameter tire, and most people stick to 15" rims instead and increase the tire size. Say you have the same overall diameter at the tread, a 15" rim will use a taller but cheaper tire, while a 16" rim will need a shorter profile yet more expensive tire. With both lifts installed you can roll 32" on 15" rims no problem, 33"s may require some minor triming around the bottom of the fenders. No biggy though. So.... separate out the rest of your questions, and you'll probably get a better response. And be sure to use the search feature on the upper right of the forum board.