Mr. Pickles

Can't say as I haven't watched that. The point here is a minimalist amount of stuff that can get you out of a jam. Have you ever had something short on you in the middle of nowhere, or late at night on the way home, when there's nobody to help? That's where hacking in with a quick fix can be the difference between home or sleep in your truck. This is particularly helpful in a GM product.

Good score, and its nice to see one of our own picked it up. Just keep the rubber side down this time.

I too drove a 720 with the Z24 for years, and the thing was an animal. But I put on 31x10.5 tires and man, talk about horrible mileage. I'd average about 200 miles on a tank. I drove that thing to California and back in college, stopping for fuel every 200 miles. Not good on a college budget. But the old girl was unstoppable, just slow. My only problem occurred when the bracket/arm that the alternator slides on snapped at the base. Flying alternator and belt, much racket. I just picked up the belt, pushed the alt out of the way, and drove it a few miles home for repair.

I hope its just the pump. If you had hardly any oil AND a bum pump, I'd be betting the bottom end is toast as well. You may still be able to drive, but you'd have some racket like you say, like some nasty knocking/vibrating sounds. Lets just hope its a miracle and just your oil pump though.

My water pump failed last winter and I had it replaced, along with timing belt and Tstat, etc. for $600 out the door with tax (8.8%). Its just a matter of checking around.

No doubt though, a class act install. Good job.

Come on down. There are plenty of Canadians down here. I work with 3 of them now. That or move out to B.C. where temps are a bit more normal.

On a somewhat related note, the few Ford's I've been associated with have warmed up suprisingly fast. Had a buddy with a Tempo years back, and my brother's Mustang. They both seemed to get down to it. We had temps in the upper teens-low 20's and it would take a good 8-10 min. to heat up, by which time I was almost at work.

Check and check! I carry a pretty full tool kit everywhere. Need a razor knife? Got it. Electrical tape? You're covered. Full socket set, assorted screwdrivers, flashlight, jumpers, spare wire to fix a frayed or shorted section, pliers, etc. etc. When you've been as broke and broken down as I have, you cover the bases. But experience says most anything can be fixed in a pinch with some duct tape, 2 screwdrivers (phillips & flat) and a pair of vice grips.

Here's a head's up. I've just spent a bit of time checking prices, and came to the following: 4wheelparts: Pro Comps 1000 front only- $84 shipped ***special- all 4 shocks plus steering stabilizer- $106 w/ free shipping Rancho RS5000- $96 shipped Central 4WheelDrive- Rancho's- $90 shipped (Central doesn't seem to carry Pro Comp) Summit Racing- $87 shipped Assuming the Pro Comp 1000's and Rancho 5000's are comparable, the price is close with the Pro Comps coming in best. But the real deal is to be had with the offer of 4 shocks plus the steering stabilizer at just over $100. Unless anybody chimes in with some bad experiences with Pro Comp, I'm thinking about going that route even though I don't really need the rear shocks. The fronts along with the stabilizer do the trick, and maybe I'll use the rears, maybe I'll sell them.

I used that last spring, and some is starting to flake. Granted, this is at the carwash using pressure to blow the mud off, but still. Once it starts to peel, its done.

Good #'s. I prefer seeing HP rather than KW, as its a higher #. That's just a pissing match though, guess its a Yank thing. 175hp/220lb ft ain't to shabby at all in my book. Feel free to beat me in a drag race any day.

Mine did it for a bit few months after I bought it for some reason. When I'd anticipate a green light, I'd slide it into 2nd but not move, then slide to first at the light change no problem. I'm not sure what the issue was, but I know the clutch was somewhat along in life and after a while I got annoyed with it, so I just crammed and forced it into 1st. After a bit of that, amazingly, there were no issues for over 1 1/2 years until I replaced teh clutch.

I'm in the Puget Sound area, so we have roughly the same weather, but you're probably a bit warmer in winter. I'd go with 10w-30. From everybody that I've talked to, and what I've read, that's a good "in the middle" weight for us since we have pretty much a mild climate year round.

Definately check where 88 said for an dampness. You want to tackle this problem before its ready to die completely. When the core goes, it can be a horrible bieeotch. I had this in a Dodge Shadow where the core is in the driver's side dash. All at once while driving down the road, I had boiling coolant pour onto my feet and at the same time the windows fogged up from the heat. I had to slam on the brakes, then jump out on the side of the road and rip my shoes off. Not cool. Hot, actually.

I did the tape also, and just replace every one in awhile since I rarely use the hatch. I believe there was originally a plastic sleeve on there, but its long gone. The latch plate thing is adjustable too, but it wouldn't go far enough to solve the problem. Junkyard time.

That's what I was thinking. Isn't the point of a "cat-back" system that you leave all the emissions stuff alone, including the cat, and only change the pipes and muffler so you stay emissions legal?

Body Lift K&N JWT chip There aren't many options out there, but happy hunting.

Hey man, that was a momentary lapse of reason for me on your part. You know half the people out there woudn't check the simple stuff, then would be questioning "WHY?"

I think if anything, you'd retain the mirror finish and with a darker tint behind, it would actually make the mirror look more dramatic, more like a regular household mirror. That's kinda what I want to do on our other car. It has a charcoal leather and black interior, so I figure if I run a mild dark metallic tint it would appear as mirror-black outside. Many people forget to take into account their interior color when selecting tint. A black or very dark interior will make a dark window tint much more dramatic. I only had like 20% on my old Prelude, but with a black interior (white exterior) it was almost as black as the limo tint (something like 5%) on my Pathy with grey cloth.

And I don't know about the science involved, but the exhaust guys were sure proup of the "aluminzed" exhaust they hooked to my turbo muffler for $100 on the previous Honda. I think it has more to do with who's isht you're willing to swallow. Besides, if it lasts till you've worn out an already semi-worn out truck, you've done good enough. I don't see the reason to roll with a Mario Andretti wanna be system.

Why would the smog nazis even care what muffler you have? Its not like it affects the exhaust or anything, and would be even less of a change than a full exhaust.

Yikes! Over $28K for my '05 Xterra, and that's not even fully loaded! :o On a side note, I've always wondered why the supercharger on the out-going model only scared up another 30hp. Where's the rest? Ditto on the variable valve timing by the way. Got a Vtec in our Acura, and that thing is fun once you hit 4k rpm's. Zzzzzzzzzzzing! :Magic: and off you go.

I have to ask, but of course you did check the fuse, right?

Silver or mirror with the white looks great.