Mr. Pickles

I dare you to get in a wreck without a few bolts here and there.

Not so bad...

A lot of people have said they couldn't locate the bolts at a local fastener specialty shop, and had to resort to online sources. Basically, on the 4-doors they switched the back mounts to a really long funky metric bolt that is hard to source. The rest of them don't matter cause you're replacing a whole long bolt and nut, but that back mount uses a captive mount in the body. Another idea I had, after the area above the bolt on one of my rear ones had to be cut away to hit it with a torch, was to simply cut in, replace the captive nut with a regular nut and bolt combo, and clean and close it up properly (welded). Probably not worth the effort, unless you have a junker and are trying to stay absolutely as cheap as possible. By the way, the kit comes with various hoses, fuel line extensions, etc.

Dayum, that's cheap! Way less than I paid. I haven't checked his store in a while... looking good.

I went with the Rancho 5000's up front after 3" suspension lift. There is a part # for a slightly longer shock for Pathy's with some suspension lift, but you should be fine with stock height. I can't seem to find the part # now, but it was in the Rancho book at the off road shop (Central 4Wheel Drive) right there next to the regular stock part #. As for the BL, you might as well go with Performance Accessories kit from AC. 88Pathoffroad I believe posted the specs on the rear most bolts, but they are pretty hard to come by, and not too cheap. The PA kit with bolts added by AC will come with basically all you need.

4x4parts.com = maybe decent parts, but crappy customer service IMHO

Washington has a bunch of F*&^%'ng morons running the show. They state regs for truck bumper heights and such, yet I came across a truck in Chelan, WA that I literally could drive my old car under. Granted, its was a lowerd 91 Prelude SI, but it was still ridiculously large for the street. There are pics out there somewhere....

Here you go. The loose purple wire goes (obviously) on that empty terminal.

roger roger

Do they give any actual stats on weight per tire, 10.5 vs. 12.5? With the same diameter, I'd be curious to see if you really are saving much weight from material.

That's a seriously pimptrailtastic Pathy.

I've run Sway Aways for about 4 years now, no droop or sag, and no issues. This has been at a full 2 1/2 - 3 in crank. I prefer them over the stock ride, slightly firmer overall on the highway, but they get very compliant around corners and on humpy surfaces. By the way, I bought them back in the day on AC as "supposedly" AC parts that were white in color according to their website and 30% stiffer than stock. However, they came shipped as Sway Away parts in a nice red color, repackaged in a crappy box with some very generic instructions for any Nissan between the 70's-90's on a photocopied page. Works for me, I later painted my JCG coils in a rubberized red paint to match.

I want a V8 in my Pathy, but man do I miss my 720 and the Z24. No power, but at least it had soul and it never died.

GOOOOO SEAHAWKS!!!! Don't act like you don't like it!!!

The only "wrong" thing now is you get to fix this thing with snow everywhere. *praying you have a big garage*

Better just a bumper and some damaged pride. You'd have most likely been at fault if you hit the Stang, just cause you're behind so the whole "too fast for conditions" comes into play on collision. Hope it fixes quick and easy!

Assuming you didn't fry your computer if its under the passenger seat and didn't get wet, go with above. Pull computer codes, clean up any water, etc. etc. If it fires up and runs, but rough, I'd suggest running it for a long while. I got some water in some nasty spots a couple times a while back and ended up driving around for probably 100 miles before everything was back to normal. Those were probably 3 and 4 years ago!

What side were you leaning too? Any signs of water into the intake, mud and water into the exhaust, etc.??

Mine could be stubborn, even without the body lift. It would sometimes require some wiggling and tugging to get things to move along.

Are you still going to have Frankentheaders made, or just have the stock stuff put back in place so you can fight AC? Which, from what I heard, AC won't budge on lots of stuff, so good luck there. Man, this sucks, good luck! *looks at my Pacesetter headers in the corner to be installed and shudders*

I do believe that is the most moronic, redneck, backwoods dip@!*%, inbred, retarded, good-ol-boy sight of asshattery in action I've ever seen. WTF. There are no words to explain the level of stupidity, regardless of Pathy involvement. "Stupid human tricks!"

Ditto that, I've heard several people with issues with the wiring on the MAF sensor. Check it out, clean it, etc. Check the obvious stuff that's been suggested cause its free. That is, unless you really like your mechanic enough to pay them to do it instead.

I've got cloth in my 94 SE, a spot in the fuse box wired up for them, pigtail plugs under each seat that seeming must go to the heated seat option, but.... no heated seats or switch. Makes me wonder if the previous owner disposed of them or something... hahaha!!! Not on the left coast buddy. More like closer to $10K min here for the earliest and highest mileage ones, and up and up and up...

Man, that sucks, but of course it was too good to be true. You might try a larger junkyard in the area (if there are any) and see if they have any connections that could ship one in. It won't be nearly that cheap, but still. I replaced the bushings on mine last year, basically you have to pull the rods, and it wasn't that big of a deal. But yeah, my poly bushing kit was like $25 so my jaw dropped on your price for the whole thing. Good luck!

I dare that sumbitch to come back again. I'm thinking squirrel kabobs.