Mr. Pickles

Replace it. Check the local junkyard for one in good shape for cheap, or you can go through Nissan, but I believe I heard they wanted quite a bit. You can get a bushing kit for cheap, either stock replacement or poly. I think I paid around $25 for both sides IIRC for an Energy Suspension kit. While you're at it, inspect the other side and at least replace the bushings if the rod is ok. You can get the bushings through the local shops or even eBay. Ebay auction

LOL, I went to the sight just because, expecting some $19.95 magnet kit or similar. $149.95 for this mystic kit...WTF?!?! hahahaha!!! Just for the chance to test something non-specific that *might* produce some sort of uncalculated savings. m'kay....

Its Friday Eve, 11:59 to be exact. I'm a whiskey/whisky guy. Bourbon and Black Velvet are my friends. I'm talking straight up, old skool, I've had a bad/good/forgot day, un-mixed, whatdya like, lets get down and do it type of survey. Glass with some stuff on the rocks, cool. Twist of lime in it, drop an olive, ok. Martini's, bourbon, tequila, party on. But the words mixer, margarita, rum/whiskey/vodka/etc. and ___ anything, you're disqualified. *GO*

Concrete + 4wd = NO! Polished or not, that's bad policy. You may end up fine, but you're risking damage. Try a gravel, dirt or snowy road- you need to allow for slip among the tires, meaning one needs to spin faster than others. Concrete has no give, so you're either asking your tires to give way and slip (the "chirping," but different tire styles and brands can react VERY different on concrete), or something in your drivetrain to either bind up or give and break.

The Rough Country UCA's are built by Superlift, AFAIK. I've heard they were toughening up their stance lately, probably cause they were stuck with 100 rear Hardbody lift kits cause we bought the front end. LOL. I got in fairly early, and got the UCA's for lie $130 shipped in 2005, and they've been great. And yes, those front shocks should fit perfect, rear is unknown though...

Exactly... minus the pampered part.

ditto on connecting a hose to the heater core, put it on the "out" and let the "in" drain. Vice versa too. They're no fun to replace, regardless of the vehicle.

K9sar is the man, FYI. Hooked me up a while ago for my 94, and its great. Thank you thank you thank you!!!

I'd vote original equipment for original performance specs. If you're reading this site, you're probably not looking for OEM performance. I've run Bosch Platinum +2 for about 45K miles now, no complaints, still good to go. NGK is good as well, I had them in my last Nissan truck, an '85 that I finally sold in great running condition with 255K miles on the original engine. Maintenance is the key, regardless.

Nice score! Are they attached to the TBI in those trucks, or in the air cleaner or something? (please forgive a MPI owner!)

Fair enough. If it was body lifted, it will look a couple inches taller than other Pathy's, and you'll see a bit of the frame sticking down below the body under the doors, not to mention lift blocks in places like in the front wheel well just behind the bumper. If not, on to step 2. You're down to checking the wiring, wiggling the plug at the switch, replacing the switch on the tranny if needed, etc. Another thought is, have you had any other stuff stop working, like accessories/lights/etc.? I'm not sure if there is a fuse, or what circuit it would be on, but check all of the fuses in the fuse block under the dash. Nissan had some funny circuits with weird items tied together. That's an easy and free test, if anything. If they are still dead and money is tight or you can't mess with the wiring for some reason, you could pick up a cheap set of fog/driving lights to mount on the rear for a cheap and easy fix, probably $10-20 and a little time. Been there, done that when on a college student budget and schedule.

Ditto on the Haynes, that's what I started with too. It can be quite helpful most of the time, but can also confuse you a bit too. Read closer about what models are covered by your book. Mine says "Pick-ups (1980 thru 1997) Pathfinder (1987 thru 1995)" right on the cover. Besides the difference between the 2 generations of WD21 Pathfinders, it also covers the Hardbody and 720 trucks (early 80's till 85 iirc). I used to have a '85 720 truck, and like all of the above, some things do mix and carry over between the models, but there are also VERY different and distinct details. There are difference between the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder models, including TBI vs MPI versions, and then those differences may mean other differences drivetrain, etc. Long story short, the Garage is here for questions, big and small. Don't be afraid to throw up a pic of your part or question too, if you need and can (Photobucket or similar is appreciated!). We don't bite... well, some might nibble a bit...

I've been out that lower road too, where you take a left at the Y after the 1 lane bridge. You could go straight out and into Mt. Rainier National Park to the campground, and take a short hike up to the Carbon Glacier. There was the bridge across the river before you enter the park, and from there some forest service roads and trails. Last I heard (about a month ago), that lower road was still washed out and so was the bridge, and the greenies were trying to press for it to stay closed permanently and only be foot or bike accessible. BS. I've also heard of the other trails down by Carbonado, but I don't know where and can't seem to find anything. I've got a buddy with a Taco who knows them, but he can't make it out. Anybody know these trails?

Ooh, that's good stuff, I went there last year. There isn't much at all for Pathy's, but lots if you're looking for SAS stuff or parts for American rigs or Yotas. Plus, its just fun stuff to screw around with, and there should be some cool show/demo rigs and trucks for sale.

This is most of the time. Its usually just a simple flat trail of water holes along the side of the hill, a bit lower in elevation than from where Packie had to be pulled out back in the day. This is the same trail when the NW Wheelers just ran it.

Sh*t, checking now. I just saw how the hills got another foot, this at a time when it should be melting more than piling up. *just checked. Crap. Are they talking about that little side trail, right off the main parking area to the left? If that's the case, and they're getting stuck in those rigs and that little road... well, I'm not sure I'd have any business out there in mine. Hmmm... looks more like a low-land day, or a ski day instead. I'd rather wheel than shovel snow. LOL *checks again* Yep, they're saying all they did was hit the parking area, then that short little trail to the left (102), which is usually just a chain of puddles and stuff most of the year. That's by far the easiest little thing up there, and they had to turn around. http://12.198.237.243/faithwheelers/faith%...creek%20map.jpg Sorry guys, I think I may have to reconsinder this one yet again.

Sunova... that's too bad. Well, we'll have a next time for sure. I'm going to look into exploring some areas around Rimrock Lake off Hwy12 east of White Pass, and west of Yakima. I heard there are some nice trails over there, and its near the Naches and various off-road stuff too. Sounds like there's tough stuff, as well as mild (family friendly) mountain trails. There's some good trout fishing on Rimrock Lake, we knocked the hell out of them over there in June 2006. Hmmm

Ditto the steel and welding. Fiberglas over a rust repair is a band aid in the long term. The rust may come back, most likely worse that before, and/or the fiberglas could crack, especially at a point where the body flexes. Sand/grind and properly prime and paint if possible if there is still solid metal, or replace it and/or have it done if you're worried about the long term. If the rest of the truck matches with rust, though, well... do what ya gotta do. I'm getting ready to tackle the under-seat area, which will be cut out, new steel welded in, and primed and painted. I did the rockers about 4 years ago, but it was moderate surface rust. I wire wheeled and grinded it down, primed with a rust converter, and painted with a gold Rustoleum spray paint that was close enough to my paint color. All of the above was then covered by diamond plate, courtesy of an idea by 88Pathoffroad. My plating is the bed rails from a mid-90's Chevy S10 found on eBay for like $20 shipped, flipped upside down and cut as needed. Good luck! (you can see them in this pic, a handy solution to avoid the finish body work- sorry, its dark outside right now!)

Mine has done this since I bought the truck at 100K miles (now up to 165K miles, 6 years, and a clutch later now). Sometimes its just a stubborn bitch, but I can usually back it toward 2nd gear, then slide right into first, or it will just take a little *extra* push and go in. I never really thought about it too much, since my 720 pickup did the same thing every once in a while. Must be another Nissan thang.

It sticks out of the transmission on the passenger side. Climb under near the door, it should be most of the way up the transmission and near the bell housing. Visually check this and the wires going to it, like MWS said. There could be a broken wire or something simple. You should be able to read a current on one of the associated wires or at the plug when the truck is in reverse (with the ignition on). On a side note, do you have a body lift? If yes, the issue could be the boot or floor not allowing the shifter to fully move back when in reverse if the shifter or boot hasn't been modified to allow for movement. Mine has been like that for 3 years, so I've gotta pull back slightly. Guess I'm lazy to fix it. Good luck

Things are looking in the up direction for me. I've sorted out some irritating things, like the truck not running so well, and not really idling in general. Sounds like MaritimeMan might make it out to join us. I'm not sure on the status of his rig, so he might ride along, gotta talk to him probably tomorrow or so.

"is that sarcasm or just someone trying to get me to spend money on something that just needs a new boot....... there is nothing wrong with the split boot... " Have you done it, or looked at a manual? There is quite a fair amount of work involved in replacing a boot, even once you have it out of the truck. I'd bet its quick on your 2nd or 7th attempt, but the cost difference between buying a split boot vs. a replacement isn't too bad. Much worse if you're paying for the labor. And yes, there are long term issues with split boots over time.

I ran a split boot replacement for 2 years, no problems. Then... problems. BTW, I paid $20 for a split boot, plus tons of cussing and bitching getting those tiny little nuts and bolts into those tiny peaks and valleys, with grease everywhere. The local NAPA has reman'd half shafts, in box with warranty, for $62. Screw it, if you're already under there tearing into things, why monkey around with fixing an old part. Replace and call it a day. If not, like others have said, save yourself the PITA and just duct tape it until you can get around to replacing. Seriously.

Ummm... yes, I forgot, actually. Wanna catch mine this time around? hahaha You guys kill me with 8am on a Sat., ya dirty bastages! Wait, I'm the closest one to the meeting place. Double-wtf?!