Mr. Pickles

Been posted many many times, its usually your rear hatch is not closing tight enough. Go in back and loosen the 2 bolts that hold down the metal latch hoop on the floor in the very back of the cargo area where the rear hatch closes, then try sliding it back as far as possible and tightening the bolts. Others have had luck wrapping some tape around it (temp fix) or adding a washer or 2 under the hoop.

Sweet. The wife, get this, wants to dump her Acura for a Tacoma. Congrats! Just do me a favor and skip the 20" rims!!! Please say that part was a joke.

I'm a fan of the alarm and LED's. I went and swapped out the regular single red LED on the dash that came with the alarm for a bright blue one and 1 more on each A-pillar, right by the tweeter. They're cheap, bright, and you can see them from waaay far away. A thief doesn't know if I've got a $500 mondo alarm system or $2 in extra LED's.

Inconspicuous I'm getting ready to raise the floor in the rear cargo area. I've planned my new sub box for a 6" raise for the left 3/4 or so, the remainder taken by the box, with the floor raised 6". I've got about 47 different projects going at the moment though... Lowe's has some marine carpet that is a decent enough match to the stock grey, as I used it on the old sub box a couple years ago, and they were clearing it out for like $2.49 a yard so I bought a bunch. Anyways, I bet you'd be ok under the rear seat, I've thought about that as well a little bit. As long as you don't go too deep. Most of these trucks are rusted through there anyways, so no harm, no foul.

That's bogus man, sorry to hear. I'm sooo glad I didn't go ahead and buy mine a cuople months ago, I literally was like a click away and decided to wait. What's worse is those guys have done good for so long, only for this to come. :confused:

Niiiice. It looks like a brand new truck! Blue is my favorite color too.

By the way, no, I don't think I've ever seen of one coming in a kit. I'd say you're most likely going to have to source a new one, or tap or heli-coil the old one.

Just what I suspected. There are a bunch around here in the jy's, I was just a couple yards 2 weeks ago or so. I'm out of town this weekend, or I could pull one easy. I dunno what they would charge, but shipping wouldn't hopefully be too bad if you have to wait. If local guys are looking, South Hill Auto Wrecking and especially Meridian Auto Wrecking should have them. Meridian is high priced, but they had like 3 or 4 pretty new trucks in when I went 2 weeks ago that their computers didn't even have listed at the desk. I wouldn't think Nissan would want TOO much for a new part, but ya never know.

A 32 page 2007 calendar??? Is that with the conversion to OZ bucks? Should be a fun calendar though.

Have you bench tested it? A gazillion features aside, its simply battery, switched source, groung and then whatever you want for speakers, inputs/outputs, and such. I wouldn't rule out a crap stereo, but testing it on the garage work bench or even under your hooe would help.

Bumper brackets for a body lifted truck would be a good solid start. I believe the mounting is different for early vs. later Pathys. Those damn plate brackets in the kit took hours to get on and aligned, it was ridiculous considering the design and the space given (plus I installed the whole lift alone). After all the bs, re-tightening, etc., a while later I said to hell with it and welded those brackets to my frame where they pop through and you can see them in the tire well (94 Pathy). Now it doesn't move... finally. A second thought, assuming you could fab these mounts, would be a beefier version of said mount in order to mount a heavier bumper and winch. An alternate would be a set of mounts coming from the tow hooks on the frame horns, for example, that would come up at an angle to approximately the location and mounting points for an aftermarket bumper (if not yours, say and ARB or equivalent). I'll defer to Slick and other locals for the one on one, but let me know if you'd like pix or further explanation.

Go Pezzy Ditto that, if its close enough and you just now realized the issue (assuming that is the cause), I'd let it be. Otherwise you're gonna be throwing some serious cash at a somewhat non-issue.

Yeah, holy crap, do not drive that truck. Without that nut on there, I'm sure its putting a whole lot more stress on the rest of the mounting points for that UCA than they were designed for, basically the other nut and the bolts through the spindle to the frame. I'd imagine this missing nut would allow some forward and back movement, which I would be afraid could end up shearing the bolts to the frame, then you're really screwed. My question is, why did it come off? Is there any indication it stripped off the spindle? That would take a while to just work itself loose and come off completely.

Exactly! The new Pathy isn't on my wish list, but it would make a nice pavement pounder that can still take the family skiing and camping. If my wife was a soccer mom (and I could find the cash in the couch cushions) that could be a nice option. Give me a Titan *drooooool* or an X though. Regardless, I'm not letting my Pathy go, whatever might land in the driveway.

There is nobody currently. Are you volunteering for duty?

Where there's a will, there's a way.

I haven't had Pro Comp Extreme MT, but just regular Pro Comp MT's, and even those are tough so far. No cactus needles, but I have lots of gashes from rocks and trails, as well as roughed up tread sides and slashes from smoke shows on the street and stuff (love the locker! ). I've also scraped and dropped them off the sharp edge of the jagged concrete block retaining wall in my driveway, with nothing more than some scuffs and marks. If they claim the Extremes are tougher, I wouldn't hesitate, from my experience.

That still seems really high. I paid something like $25-30 US for an Energy Suspension link kit with links AND bushings, and another $20-ish US for the middle bar-to-frame bushings. That's about $45 US for brand new parts(no shipping, picked up from a local 4wd shop). I also went with their strut rod kit for another $25 or so cause they were worn. And I'd agree with MWS, if you don't go off road much, and highway is your priority, definately go WITH the sway bar. Sure you can make it without it, but you'll corner better with it and should be able to better swerve make emergency moves.

Huh, seems close enough with rubbery parts. That or maybe you could look at Energy Suspension bushings if that's all you've gotta replace (not sure of their size though, that's one of the front ones I haven't replaced with them).

Bye the way, did you go ahead and replace the ball joints while you were in there?

That, I don't recall. I did mine 1 side at a time, and I don't care to go out in the rain to check.

Talk about rising from the ashes!!! Good to see you around , its been a bit sporadic!

The only stupid question is the one not asked... well, most of the time. That pic is right side up, as they'd sit on the truck. The way they sit, you can reach into the fender well over the top of your front tires in order to grease the bushings with those zerks. And yes, I have them on my truck, for about 1 1/2 years now with lots of abuse. They're GREAT.

Smashfinder or me? Cause that's what I did, but I'm pretty sure either the relay or the switch somehow got smoked during install, even though I double checked both before and after. Smashfinder, I'm confused. Did you use the relay in the install, or just directly wired it?

Exactly. Just an excuse to pull you over and see what else you have going on. You run the forest roads up by Greenwater? I've only gone on I think 70 or something, up to a fire tower, then up to Lonesome Lake (that's where I proposed to the Mrs!). There's some cool stuff up that way, lots of little side roads.