Mr. Pickles

They're something like $80 at the stealer for the kit if you really are dying for it. I had to when my hinge broke cause no yards within like 40 miles had one. As I'm sure you know, the mounts for the wing/deflector are also the hinges for the black glass, so it was kinda *important* at the time. Good luck.

Does anybody know how to get in there and pull the rack apart? Mine has made a horrible rattle/racket for like a year and a half, and is noticably sloppy, LOL. I've got a new bushing set from the stealer for only like $3, just wondering how to pull it apart. There are what look like caps on the top and bottom. Do you just pry one or the either off to expose a bolt (top, I'd assume)? *I must be blind, I didn't see anything in the FSM. Yes, I saw the note in the Common Issues area where 88 says its not easy. The stealer said they could be replaced and were somewhat common, but "how" was not discussed though *

I'd put it on but return it to stock function. Its small, plus call me cautious, but a brake light is one of the few things I'd not mess with or take chances (granted, yes I realize you don't have a 3rd one now). The goal being, of course, for it to be seen as good as possible. Just my 0.02.

Method #2: The mounts to the frame can be a bit of a pain to line up and reinstall. If you're doing it alone and only need just the bumper itself off, you can barely slip your hands in behind the bumper, and I believe there were either 2 or 4 nuts per side that mount the bumper (from inside) to the mounts. I want to say 12mm. If you slide under the bumper and look behind it from below with a flashlight, you should see what I'm talking about. I have bear paw hands so it was a tight fit, but not much of a biggie.

And another LINK. K9sar's tip (jumping the circuit) worked for me too. I didn't even think about it, but I had to turn the key a couple times on a couple occassions in the month or so leading up to total failure. Thanks again, man.

Yep, its good stuff. You might want to try driving with it off while close to home, or bring the glass with you, though. The wind buffeting (sp?) gets pretty wicked at highway speeds, especially if you have a roof rack of stuff or with a deflector. I'm 6', so its not like I'm really sticking up high, but it gets tiring after a couple miles on the highway. Its great around town on a hot day though.

I think you just answered your own question.

Where are you? (West Coast vs. rust belt, etc.) That would be a steal around here (western WA), assuming you could deal with the tranny reasonably.

Yep, they've phased that out here, along with WRC and most of the good stuff in general, in favor of "go fast, turn left."

Yeah, they're kinda loud, especially at full throttle and if you're by a wall on the freeway, etc. I like it though, it sounds a lot better and beefier than stock. I've had a 40 for probably 4-5 years now, with no problems at all.

Its hard to say about the flow without a brand name/specs, etc. I'd doubt you'll have a problem hurting the engine. Is it a dry type, or does it appear to have any oil on the filter element? Is it cotton gauze type, or a type of paper?

Agreed. Maybe its a Fram AirHog, or one of the other aftermarket brands?

BTW, you can usually polish plastic headlight lenses with a bit of tooth paste and some hard scrubbing and polishing. It beats those expensive snake oil formulas out there. But yeah, some good auxiliary lights won't hurt either.

I'd love one of these! Are you still making them? (yes, I realize its only been a few day, don't know how I missed this thread...) *PM sent*

LOL, so true. I'll stick with my couple buck "Bosch Platinum +2" gimmicks, thank you. I wish they would have given me a "Powered by Bosch" ricer sticker or something though. Nice! They don't even answer the question with some scientific sounding BS, but essentially state "we'll save you money in gas, so deal with it and buy them already!"

X6 on keeping the best of the old set, and ditto on keeping it close to or the same diameter. Width doesn't really matter compared to diameter. I went to 31x12.5 on my current set of ProComp MT's and kept a 31x10.5 BFG MT from the old set as the spare (rear tire carrier). Of course, a 5th full size is a fine option if you can afford it. Sure, its a bit more cash, but with a 5th tire in rotation, its just that much longer time before you have to buy a new set. Another option might be to check your local used tire shop or junk yard, or see if a new tire dealer has a used rack. You'd be surprised, some really good tires can end up there due to a wreck, or damage to 1 or more tires on a truck, and a guy just opts to replace them all at once, stuff like that. I bought a set of 4 31x10.5 MT's with probably 80% tread a while back for my old 720 Nissan truck for like $150. Just a thought...

Do the rest of your lights work (dash, etc.)? If not, check the Meter fuse in the fuse box under the dash. If they do work, on to the switch you go. Its pretty straight forward, really. I've cleaned it, then recently replaced it with one from a junkyard truck for like $30 IIRC. Yeah, that was pretty spendy but not too horrible. They were proud of it, but I was in a hurry and they wouldn't let me tear down an intact column. Good luck!

Here's my K&N. Sorry for the fuzzy pics with flash, like you said, its dark as the inside of a cow outside. From the top From the bottom

If you're wheeling the truck or plan too use it, etc., I'd go suspension lift first of course. If you're strickly after looks and plan to mall crawl, body lift is your cheaper and leaves the suspension stock (less wear and tear). Many people will likely argue SL either way, though. I (and many others) have both.

I can't directly quote availability in Canada, sorry. But I just bought the lifetime warranty again on our Acura about 6-9 months ago. Used it twice already, too.

Egg-sactly. Just came home from Firestone tonight. I paid around $100 or so for the lifetime alignment on sale back in 2005, although it looks like the regular price is now up to $169 locally. This was at least my 6th or so alignment since then, all with absolutely no hassles and prompt service. Every time has been either after installing new parts or (very obviously, mud caked to the bottom of the truck) after a trail run. The wife and I showed up tonight after work at about 6pm, dropping it off for alignment, plus balance/rotate, and expecting to leave the Pathy and pick her up tomorrow. The guy was like "were you planning to wait for it, or drop off?" Excuseme?! "Well, we could have it ready by 7pm when we close." Allll-right. LOL- afterward, he started to explain that it looks like my center link is about shot, and wanted to explain what a center link is, what it does, etc. I'm like "yep, expected that, hope to drop in a new one after the holidays. I've got new tie rod ends waiting at home in the garage too. I put in new ball joints not too long ago when I put in the new UCA's. Did you like my trashed CV boots?" With a nod and a grin, his next comment? "Dude, you should swap in a solid axle in that thing! Those trucks are great! And they're getting more popular." LOL! I like this guy. Oh, and the balancing/rotation? $39.99 Anyways, yeah, I think you got just a little hosed at the stealership. Not too bad though, really, all things considered. Just keep in mind, I'd bet 95% of the peeps on this board would suggest: 1) If you can reasonably do it yourself, do it. 2) If you can't do it, don't go to the dealership unless you have to (warranty, etc.). 3) Find a shop you can trust, and/or... learn to do it yourself! I'm curious. Why did the bill climb to $120? Last I checked, the Loonie wasn't that loonie. Even par with the US$. I'd be curious (in an off topic post) to see some price comparisons for things. Considering our trip to Victoria a few years ago when the exchange wasn't nearly so even, dinner and accomodations wasn't exactly "cheap" even then. ouch

Sounds about right to me. I paid like $42 each 2 years ago or so. Pro Comp shocks are a few bucks cheaper and similar, if you have a 4Wheel Parts shop around your area. IIRC, their 3000's are comparable, to the point that they are white and blue and Rancho is white and red.

Sorry if I came across pessimistic before. I took your first post as "I don't want to spend anything but want the moon," know what I mean? LOL Ditto the Rough Country UCA's, I've run them for over 2 years now with no issues at all, they're great in my book. 88Pathoffroad is the source for coils among other things, he has a write up out there, I think in the How To section of either the Garage or one of the WD21 areas. A pretty solid but basic suspension lift could be had for maybe as cheap as $200 (UCA's and some junkyard springs) and some wrenching if you really shop around and are lucky. It all depends on what you do yourself, what you have done at a shop, and then what other goodies you add. Shocks wouldn't be a bad idea, and can run the spectrum in pricing of course. Some of us have gone with aftermarket heavier duty torsion bars, but they're not absolutely necessary at all. You can successfully crank (and re-index) stock T-bars to gain lift. I picked up Sway Away torsion bars 3 or 4 years ago for another $200-something, and have been happy with them, they give a nice ride without being harsh like I've heard some cranked bars might do. You can throw on a body lift for more clearance for another $100 +/-. Whatever's clever.

Gotta spread the love LOL, literally posted the very same moment that I posted and recommended your thread on rewiring/adding relays. You go on with yo bad self.

Thanks, I've been looking to fix mine for, oh, I don't know... 5 years?! Can somebody say "heat gun" to get that sucker to move?