Mr. Pickles

If you want them on whenever (parking lights-low beams-high beams), do this (on a WD21): Pull the stock switch inside the truck. The Purple should be switched power from the headlight circuit into the switch, yellow is power output from the switch giong to the relay under the hood, and if I remember right, green is ground. From the relay under the hood (probably a Bosch), I believe its black wires for power to the lights if still stock. Find a new switched power source to tap into and bypass the headlight circuit, which will be routed through the switch to trigger the fog/driving light relay. You can tap the parking lights or go to the headlight switch or fuse, etc. Then run a new wire from there, and use that to replace the purple lead wire and hook your new wire to the purples wire's location on the switch. Now the lights will work independently of low/high as well as alone while the parking lights are on, but you won't be able to forget and leave them on by themselves like you might with a separate aftermarket switch. It might sound a little weird, but look at any basic wiring diagram for fog/driving lights, and this should all make sense.

Ditto that, that add-thing has to be what, 4-5 years old or so at least, wouldn't you say 88? Maybe even off the old MrJim site. Please post up though, if anybody finds another source.

I wonder if you could fight reflective with reflective and wash out the pic. My buddy is into mountain biking pretty hard, and he has these little pin reflector things that you can stick on trees for night riding down a trail/course. They're tiny and really shiny off of little light. Lots of light produces that star effect. I guess the point being, if the camera is going to flash, I wonder if you could provide so much reflection (reflective tape and such on the bumper, reflectors, something like these pins, etc.) that it over-exposes the pic. More thoughts...

Hmmm... yeah, Straddleline sounds out pretty much, unless someone could point out the other mystery trails. On the subject of the Wynoochee Lake/River area, I'm up there often, at least 1-2 times a year for camping and screwing off. I know there are roads you can take from the dam area and go all the way out to the ocean, or you can go the other direction out toward Lake Cushman and the east part of 101. There are lots of roads to venture on, but most are just plain maintained forest service roads. I've hit a couple fun little patches out there while out with a buddy, but most of the group has pavement pounders, so we usually go hiking around, fishing, plunking, drinking... etc. But all in all, I haven't seen anything really worthy of a trail run by itself, especially being as far out as it is. Pretty much next exit past Montesano off Hwy 8 going toward the ocean, then north on the road like 20 miles till it turns to dirt, then another 20 miles or so above the dam and lake to where we camp. I'll try and ask around and explore some more, we'll be out there late June or early July.

Hold on, so do they, or do they not, have truck trails there-abouts? I heard they did a while back, but don't see mention of it really, other than trucks hauling dirt bikes and quads to those trails. Is it just for bikes and quads? We need some new options...

If you have no issues with an oil and it doesn't leak or cause problems, stick with it and change it often and regularly. That's fool-proof, regardless of what you use.

Ellensburg is a bit out of my range at the moment. I'm right off Hwy410, so Yakima isn't too bad once they open the pass for the summer. Have fun though! I've resigned myself to taking care of a couple projects Sat., then golfing with the guys Sun.

Good thinking, keep it for playing in the dirt and foul weather, etc. IMHO, tires (and rims if necessary) are the best first mod. Lift is good, especially if needed to fit said tire, and 33" tire generally = 3" suspension + 3" body. Locker = cheap bang for the buck traction and performance. After that, I'd say recovery equipment and basic tools, cb if you get remote and out of cell range or just want to talk on the trail for free, and also maybe some various armor. That can all be accomplished plus some on a $3k budget, maybe even $2k+ with some elbow grease.

Isn't the Naches stuff pretty high up too? = snow There's that one west of Olympia, I can never remember the name, but Red knows. Or Tahuya. I know that's pretty mild, but for once, we have decent water, and there's the mud area we didn't go to last year. But... and a big but... I'm all but out end of April til mid May or so. Got family out of town stuff lined up, then we're heading down to San Diego for a bit. But hell, I may be able to fit something in here and there. This weekend would be nice, for once.

Now there's a quote. Simon, you're a luck man.

I'm going Henry Ford or FDR. Henry was a tinkerer, and yet helmed an evolutionary auto industry from it's birth. For now, I'll ignore the more socialist tendancies of his career. FDR led the US out of the depression with some steel-balled (and sometimes "illegal," see Ford comment) moves, and through the biggest war this world has ever seen.

Grand Cherokee = Grand Cherokee, AFIK, and regular Cherokee doesn't fit. They're built for the weight of the V8. I've had those front JGC springs in the rear of my truck for probably 4-5 years now, no problem.

And that's it, boys and girls. Don't - do - meth.

Is it only touching the plastic fender flare? Of so, cut the flare to fit.

Yes, there is an option, and others may want to swap you for the "wing." The hinges change on these, so trucks with the "wing" have hinges that are also the mounts for what many call the "wind deflector." Those without these hinges/mounts simply have hinges attaching the back glass to the truck. You can easily make the swap with parts from a junkyard truck or another truck, but please don't toss the deflector and hinges, as somebody out there surely would like to pick them up from you.

Auburn, WA, is considering this now, up the road about 10 miles from here. They wanted to be pioneers a few years ago, and they made cash for a while. Now, not so much. My co-worker, among others (his teenage daughter being the cause) has been fighting these things too, due to the legality of charging the owner of the vehicle with no proof of whom is actually driving. Hopefully, others are to follow. This big-brother bull@!*% is driving me nuts. I have an elementary school at the end of my block, and I drive slow and respectfully in the neighborhood. They put in photo-radar in 2006-2007 school year in all school zones in the city limits (Bonney Lake, WA). Sounds like a good idea, right? Among literally the first to get caught, posted in the local paper... mayor and police chief's wife. Mysteriously, the photo-radar went away this year...

LOL, forgot about that show, that was amusing stuff (if drawn out and delayed). That's not a half bad idea though, as there is already an existing window tinting/blocking technology, I do believe. You can have a clear window, click a remote, and it will turn opaque. An alternative to window blinds. It usually takes a while, 30 seconds or so, but maybe it could be rigged to detect the flash or something else. Flash/blind/buh-bye

Nope, the solenoid trigger is similar, and no boot. I only remember cause my oil sensor wire's plug disentigrated, and I had to swap it out (with boot) from to a junkyard special. That boot likes to collect all sorts gunk over the years. That's another really swell Nissan design.

Yep, that's definately the oil pressure sensore wire. BTW, you spoke of corroded battery cable a year ago. Have you replaced it, or did you just clean it up? If not, you can get a new after market one for like $10 and replace it from the battery straight to the starter. No more problems.

I went out this afternoon with my father-in-law and bro-in-law to do some .22 plunking, plus bro-in-law's Walther PPK. That's a rowdy little gun! James Bond would be proud. No pics though... Mine is a pretty old Mossberg 151M .22, given to me by my grandfather. Among other things, its a survivor of a house fire, and it has black scorch marks on the stock to boot! It was a hoot to shoot with it today, and was last fired in 1968 I believe. All in all, a good day (even with mid-30's temps and a heavy rain/snow shower cutting things short).

Riiight, almost April now... get the last of the snow out of my yard, then we can talk about the tons in the hills. On a side note, you can usually hit up Evans and stay below the snow by then, or head out to Tahuya or somewhere else, FS roads and such. Whatever's clever.

Those are great cars if they're in good shape. My mom had a '90 Super Coupe when I was in high school. I drove it to the Senior Prom. All in all, they're pretty damn fast and fairly comfy for 4, as you probably know. I've seen hp figures at 210 and torque at 315 lb ft. That hp is tame these days, but about equal to a Mustang 5.0 of the time, and for 1992 (just looked it up) a Corvette is rated at 300hp and 340 lb ft torque. That's not too shabby, especially for a supercharged 3.8 V6. They even get good mileage on the highway if you're not into the right pedal, we went to San Diego in it and it got high 20's cruising on I-5. The biggie on these is mileage and maintenance. High mileage (well into the hundred k's) and/or unconfirmed maintenance = think twice, unless you're willing to drop money for a rebuild. But that's in the long run. If the buy is right, hell, I'd buy one now. *oh yeah* Not at all critical, but mom's car also went through a few sets of brakes trying to track down a squeal that wouldn't go away. Seems to be an irritation with many similar year Fords in my experience, though, as my brother has done the same on a 94 Explorer and 89 Mustang 5.0 (still has the car), and my buddy as well on a 99 Explorer. Not a big deal, though.

I am Snow Ninja. Fear me. Papa and Tigger

Have you actually tested/had tested, or done ANYTHING yet to confirm that it is, in fact the alternator?? The battery light can come on for many reasons, like have been said: connections, wiring, loose/slipping belt, yes- the alternator itself, and... the battery. Most local auto parts places should be able to test it for free, some with it out of the truck, and many can hook up their machine and run quick tests on your whole charging system while the alternator is still in the rig. Why throw good money at it (especially at the dealer), without actually checking what the problem is?