Mr. Pickles

I've been running 31x12.5 Pro Comp MT's for 2 1/2 years with 3+3 lift and no SAS, no problemo. I've heard similar about Interco treadwear, though. Then again, its not like they're out there promoting high mileage commuter tires.

Kudos to you for the catch and the self composure. I'd probably be taking a ride with the boys in blue. Once you get yours (payment), here's a simple revenge that doesn't cause any damage to come back on you, but its worth a laugh. Pick up a simple valve stem tool, you can get one for a couple bucks max. tool valve cap tool Remove all 4 stems so the tires are flat and he can't fill them back up. He'll be out there with a tire pump or a compressor cussing up a storm. You could even leave them sitting on his hood, ready to reinstall. I'd just about guarantee he doesn't have the tool on hand to replace the stems. Its simple and quick, no damage is done, but its a PITA for him to figure out and go buy one.

Yikes! 1) I got my 3" BL for my 94 about 4 years ago through them... for about $85. 2) Yes, agreed, their update looks like ass.

LOL, did you read? This isn't the right file. But enjoy. Anyways, I'll screw around with it later, we're leaving on vaca tomorrow and its half past bed time. Anybody that has the newer version, please share.

Fog light switch wiring is here.

I was just screwing around with some stickers, Publisher, Photoshop and stuff, and remembered the old sticker thread from DJ Dank. Old timers will notice the phantom "R" in Offroad (Off Road). Anyways, I had these bumper sticker sheets from Office Depot, and they figure out to a buck each, so who cares if they die if they at least last a little while. They claim the stickers are waterproof, who knows how the ink will hold. I currently have one of the original Mr. Jim-made ones that he printed off like 5 years ago, and its finally dead and peeling. This one is a bit off center, and I'm not overly trilled with the black (ran it as "normal" instead of photo quality), but the recent sticker guy and his website seems defunct, sooo... BTW, hope I'm not stepping on your toes if you're out there, man! I'm just screwing around with stuff. And no, sorry peeps, I don't plan on making any runs of them. Does anybody know if/where the one with the corrected "R" lives? Oh yeah, ".net" too, for that matter. If not, I'll try something, but its bed time tonight...

Agreed. 3 cents for a plastic zip tie + bending and putting some flanges in some aftermarket line does not = stock repair. Granted, no you didn't take it to a dealer or equivalent, but this sounds like crap work regardless of where you would have taken the truck. :worthless:

Water soaking through (*cheap*)a cover? That kind of defeats things. A decent vehicle cover should block out anything this side of a tornado really. Or are we talking about some $20 tarp thing? Regarding your mineral/stuff build up, what so far has nor worked? What have you tried? Give the Meguiars cleaner wax a try. If anything, maybe just a paint cleaner/wax? I'd hate to question your technique...

Its all about deterring the thief and making it as plain and obvious as possible that you are doing so. Don't crank your stereo around home (your neighbors will approve!), don't flaunt it with stickers and stuff, and try to park in well lit public areas. Tint + alarm + lots of flashing LED lights wired into the alarm system are a VERY good start. I added several to my alarm system, bright as can be. No, its doesn't solve things in the middle of nowhere, but it helps make them think. Most thiefs are looking for the easiest path possible, something to get into and out of as quick and easily (quietly) as possible. After that, keep things out of sight, be it a blanket, cargo area cover, etc. Mount any amps or components out of sight, cause the Unique Whips stuff will get you jacked. Finally, make your stuff hard to take... bolt it down... repeatedly. You'd have to sit there for 10 min to unbolt my stuff without an 800lb gorilla to help. A normal thief is looking for a grab and go, regardless of the vehicle. If its a grab + crowbar + get a couple friends + a bolt or cable cutter, they'll walk away. Yeah, they might cut up or mess your stuff up, but they won't be back for sure.

Nice, they should treat you well

Sweet, we'll keep him around for a while yet then... Looks like things are coming together for you! BTW, what do you mean by TBC?

Just make sure he *really* has Grand Cherokee springs. As for pics, there are tons. Some people whine about not getting a lot of lift, others have plently. I've got a rear tire carrier with a 31 MT, plus a sub box and amp in back, and its been level and fine for like 4 years now. This is with a 3" BL + JGC coils, Sway Away Tbars, Rough Country UCA's (and the above gear), and little 31x12.5x15 tires.

I really think this kind of body lift is not the right tree to be barking up. If and when you can pull it off and stabilize the whole structure on top of this lift, the leverage on a 6" body lift is going to be far more than on a standard 2-3" one. I'm sure you can build the mounts and frame to the end of the earth to accomodate the whole thing, but it seems that your base argument is that you don't like SAS because of the ride, which makes no sense at all. You're trying to design by body lift while ignoring the suspension, which built out, leaves you with a really tall truck that's about as practical to drive as a monster truck. Extending the body to big heights above the frame and suspension will make it behave essentially like a big pendulum..

Bummer. Hopefully lots and little, in that order.

Got nothing to say about those tires, but say 'ello to mah little friend Linky

3 + 3 + 31x12.5 15" Pro-Comp MT's

Got mine for $40 already pulled from the truck in Puyallup. Shop around, my man.

Ditto on the Meguiars stuff if all else fails. We have a bit of stuff in the water out here, plus lots of bs coming off the trees and such onto the cars. I've had great results cleaning it up with various Meguiars cleaner and wax 3-stage products. I think I'm going to give the clay bar a try this year, especially on the wife's black Acura.

Ditto on the "buy a cheap Pathy" over an XJ. I honestly kinda like XJ's . Similar size to a Pathy, more power, tons of aftermarket support, etc. But they're still pigs that will generally break down on you. Buy a POS Pathy with the best frame you can find, drive it around for now, then swap parts good for bad and make a solid rig out of the 2. I call bs on that. He probably just didn't properly report it, if needed for the local municipality. Or, was it a stolen frame/body somewhere along the line, or something like that? 4x4's and hot rods have been doing this stuff for years, let alone the tube chassis vehicles on the street build in a shop with no VIN. If its street legal and you dot your "i's" and cross your "t's" on the paperwork, you should be good to go.

Oh man, that sucks. Glad to hear everybody is ok. Metal can be repaired or replaced. That's a shame, that looks very similar to my father-in-law's Pathy, a nice rig. Good luck jumping through the flaming hoops with the insurance company. Not so much. There have already been arguements in WA about how ineffective they are, since they started installing them a few years back. There was a wreck up north of Everett where an oncoming car went clean through the cable median barrier and somebody in traffic on the other side. They put them in on our local highway, and within a few days I saw a skid mark onto the median and through the barrier, nearly into oncoming traffic. They look more like a cheap visual safety net that may or *may not* save your ass.

If you want them on whenever (parking lights-low beams-high beams), do this (on a WD21): Pull the stock switch inside the truck. The Purple should be switched power from the headlight circuit into the switch, yellow is power output from the switch giong to the relay under the hood, and if I remember right, green is ground. From the relay under the hood (probably a Bosch), I believe its black wires for power to the lights if still stock. Find a new switched power source to tap into and bypass the headlight circuit, which will be routed through the switch to trigger the fog/driving light relay. You can tap the parking lights or go to the headlight switch or fuse, etc. Then run a new wire from there, and use that to replace the purple lead wire and hook your new wire to the purples wire's location on the switch. Now the lights will work independently of low/high as well as alone while the parking lights are on, but you won't be able to forget and leave them on by themselves like you might with a separate aftermarket switch. It might sound a little weird, but look at any basic wiring diagram for fog/driving lights, and this should all make sense.

Ditto that, that add-thing has to be what, 4-5 years old or so at least, wouldn't you say 88? Maybe even off the old MrJim site. Please post up though, if anybody finds another source.

I wonder if you could fight reflective with reflective and wash out the pic. My buddy is into mountain biking pretty hard, and he has these little pin reflector things that you can stick on trees for night riding down a trail/course. They're tiny and really shiny off of little light. Lots of light produces that star effect. I guess the point being, if the camera is going to flash, I wonder if you could provide so much reflection (reflective tape and such on the bumper, reflectors, something like these pins, etc.) that it over-exposes the pic. More thoughts...

If you have no issues with an oil and it doesn't leak or cause problems, stick with it and change it often and regularly. That's fool-proof, regardless of what you use.

Good thinking, keep it for playing in the dirt and foul weather, etc. IMHO, tires (and rims if necessary) are the best first mod. Lift is good, especially if needed to fit said tire, and 33" tire generally = 3" suspension + 3" body. Locker = cheap bang for the buck traction and performance. After that, I'd say recovery equipment and basic tools, cb if you get remote and out of cell range or just want to talk on the trail for free, and also maybe some various armor. That can all be accomplished plus some on a $3k budget, maybe even $2k+ with some elbow grease.