Mr. Pickles

If they're aluminum, maybe try the same idea of one of those extendable magnet rod deals (they've saved my arse more than once), but put a dab of grease or vasolene on the end for "stick." If you can at least stick magnetically or other, and pull it up high, arm your other hand with needle nose pliers or something at the top if the opening is tight. Sorry, never dealt with your particular stuck situation, but I've seen a few. If not, I agree on the buy more and forget.

Like has been said, if they *really* want your stuff, they'll get it. Make it as undesirable as possible. I've had a vehicle stolen, a couple broken into, and multiple attempts as well, all on previous rigs with obvious stereo equipment, or no alarm, etc. etc. I've run a decent alarm for years on the Pathy, but more importantly I added several bright blue LED's into the system, on the dash and pillars, which you can see far off in the distance. Hide your stuff if possible or remove what you can (Ipod, cd's, GPS), and make it visually unattractive. The dual stage alarm is handy too, you can tap the rig or bump it and the alarm will chirp several warnings, then if you breathe on it, its party time. Finally, if you have to have your stereo, I say yes to making it hard. Scattering your equipment around the rig helps (amps under seats, components behind panels, etc.), or on/in the box can work if its secure enough and out of sight. Try mixing screws (phillips/flat/square/star) when mounting items, and bolting through the body with washers on the other side if you can, etc. I'll agree with others though, you can make it tough to nearly impossible to take, but then you might just piss off the thief enough and they'll slash up your stuff instead. At least you ended up still having your rig in the end though. Good luck!

176K miles and change, stock drivetrain other than a clutch. Lots of replaced front suspension parts, though that's expected with lift. She's just getting good and broken in, me thinks, though the electrical stuff thinks otherwise. *zap/kaput*

That was a fun little run. The poor guy got passed while hung up on snow by a minivan right where I was standing (taking pics), then Jared got out to check things out and we realized he was still in 4wd... still in gear... tires spinning away! Live and learn, that guy did. To be fair, on that run he lost to a little snow, 87Pathy lost a coil spring or 2 stretching the legs on his beast of a rig, and I lost some chrome to bad welding. hahaha Scott (Red), had to beat you to the punch! Jared, I wish there was more time and more fun to get into with ya!

If you're referring to the ones I posted, they're on here from about 3 years ago +/- IIRC. Look for something like "NW Meetup" or so in the trail run or NW areas, I can dig around if you can't find it.

This is truly sad news. I'm glad to have met you, and had the chance to go wheeling and talk with you. You will be missed. To the friends and family you've touched along the way, my thoughts are with them. RIP

I saw the same on the FSM, pretty much is offers nothing. Grrrr that's what I was figuring, pull he fender liner and get into what houses half the electrical crap on my rig including aftermarket relays, fuses, oil filter relo kit, etc. etc... Not worth it to me so far. ok, I'll quit my whining! At this point, I'll probably just tap the antenna wire behind the deck to a bigger antenna up top on the roof rack for a better signal. Thanks anyways man! *edit* I didn't find a nut or obvious screw, access, etc., but its been a while since I revisited. I'll check again of course soon.

Oh, and yes, I believe you're right about that the whole tbar would have to come out, but as far as I know it shouldn't be a problem as-is. Unless you plan on replacing it (rust and such), I suppose. Anybody?

Agreed on all above. That's one of the cleanest rigs I've seen. *mine... I wish!!!* If it runs good and drives straight, just keep up with maintenance (and keep your eye peeled like this) and you should be good for a long time to come.

Agreed, nothing out of the norm here. As for the boot thing on the torsion bar... I wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure you could find a replacement somethere, but mine have been like that for almost 10 years and after swapping to aftermarket bars. No problemo in my book.

Agreed, mine made a very similar sound. You might try pulling it and lubing, though I grabbed one of another rig while I was at a yard for just a couple bucks, and its been fine since after probably 30k miles or so. Its a quick easy pull/lube/swap regardless.

Has anyone replaced a power antenna on a WD21? I can't seem to find how to remove it easily, if possible. Mine hasn't worked in... well, about 6+ years. The reception lately has gotten terrible, so its probably about time. I didn't see access from under the hood or fender well, any thoughts?

Um, the 3.0 doesn't exactly throw *much* at a LockRight or the rear end in general. I've run one for 4 years or so, towed a 16' boat 500 miles round trip, and I haul a smaller utility trailer often with no issues. I've also laid some smoke shows on my old tires (bye bye 31 Pro Comps!), no issues at all. I'd also 2nd, 3rd, etc. doing the locker 1st (after good tires), then winch and stuff later, though sliders and protection are always good. The Aussie lockers are spendy, at least compared to what a Pathy is worth these days. A Lock Right will get you many places in 2wd other Pathy's can't go in 4wd stock, and wheeling with friends is always good protection, though you could find yourself REALLY stuck in mud or deep snow where normal rigs can't help.

'94 with 175k miles

Here's a vid going from side to side, on the ground with the wife turning the wheel, and just a tiny twist movement when switching side to side. Seems ok to me, and the truck drives just fine. What do you think? Its a pretty rouch shot, so I'll try again in better light over the weekend. In regards to the earlier comment when it was twisting and I thought the tire was hanging, that was because the drivers apparently was hanging up, while the passenger side I was moving back and forth hard was way in the air. I was thinking there was some binding because of that in the original vid. When they're equal (both in the air or more importantly, both on the ground), there's nice smooth side-to-side. Hopefully this mess is put to bed soon enough. Thanks for the suggestions on the aftermarket center link, but this one is only 10 months or so old with a lifetime warranty, so I'd go that route if I had to.

As has been said above... + I went the 3+3 route with JGC springs and SwawAway Tbars, but eventually dialed the front back to around 2". For one, the rear sagged over time with the tire carrier and some flexy trails, and replacing front end parts gets spendy. The lift adjustment is fully up to you, but I'd recommend not maxing it out.

Ok, so this has been bugging me but I haven't had the time to check. Tonight I jacked, supported and verified the front end on both sides, and I'm sure now that the other side in that original vid was either catching on the ground or jack stand, causing that twist. Here's a new vid and things seem just fine in my book with both tires verified moving freely and clear. Its not the best one-handed vid, but things are all moving on the same plane this time around. Talk about a blond moment...

I have a busted passenger side headlight from a rock or something, no biggie just a 1/8" hole or so, and its the 2nd time I've had this happen. The question is, I have some aftermarket composite style Hardbody headlights I picked up when considering swapping front end trim and/or going to a custom bumper. Mine have no mounting hardware, they are just the "buckets"/housings where you would put in the bulb. Has anybody tried mounting something like this to a Pathfinder, and did you scavenge parts from a Hardbody or something else? I know the Pathfinder and Hardbody headlights are not interchangeable, though the Hardbody ones may fit with some excess gaps in the larger Pathfinder openings. I'm just curious before I start buying or digging for stuff.

The thing is, there's not really any play, especially compared to before replacing parts. It goes down the road fine too, nothing spooky. As of now, that idler is 12 hours old and the center link and all the other steering parts are about 10 months. I don't get it...

Hey all, Well my idler arm grenaded and made itself know yesterday, lots of slop up and down, side to side, and the plastic bushing(s) inside were blown apart. I swapped it tonight, but have a question. I've haven't really payed attention, but is this amount of twisting movement of the center link "normal?" I don't recall paying much attention to the movement in the past, and the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and center link are all about 10 months old (new upper BJ's will be in shortly) and the pitman arm and box are solid. I'm thinking its ok, just checking. p.s. the creaking sound is not the truck, its either the jack or my knees I forgot this camera has sound.

I'm sorry, but I think you just did a band-aid. You fixed the leak at the low point, and the water was coming from somewhere up above. So now that its sealed, that water is going to pool up and/or go *somewhere* for you to find later.

Exactly... no, don't do the 3 mile up hill both ways in the snow trip. Mine went kaput winter before last, and I waited probably a good 2+ months to replace it. No biggie, but as has been said above, if you plan on keeping AC working good, its best to replace that belt and run it every once in a while to get things moving. Its not like we're worrying about power loss in a drag car.

'96 Jeep GC front springs - rear XX year Land Rover Discovery bull bar chrome thingy up front 90's Chevy diamond plate bed rails flipped upside down and trimmed for rocker panels Now if you asked how many Pathy parts from *different* Pathys mine contains, that's a list right there...

I bought my Pathy in June of 2002, after a terrible experience in RICE, i.e. rice'd up and tricked out Honda Prelude. But I'll use a mulligan and blame it all on my previous Nissan rig to that, a 1985 Kingcab 4x4 with the Z24 4 banger that I finally sold at 255K miles after me, my brother, and my grandfather (who bought it brand new in '85) drove the wheels off of. I had stuffed 31's under it with no lift but a sawzall to the front fenders. It still ran great, started every time, and even turned a couple heads thanks to much polish and wax and pimp American Racing chrome rims .

How much SL are you running? That seems pretty bad for wear if they're going every year. How long have you owned the truck, and/or how many have been replaced? Do you run with them engaged all winter? I'd doubt so in Spokane, though I bet you use them regularly. Hmmm I'm on the other side of the mountains, though I use my rig either on the trails or skiing. I had a boot tear and just repaired it (split boot band-aid kit), which failed then I replaced that one 2 years ago and then the other side this last winter, but my truck has 173,000 miles so that's no biggie. Both were around $60-65 from Napa. IMO looking at the factory service manual, for the time and effort involved to change out the boot, you might as well just change the whole shaft.