Mr. Pickles

Agreed, I did the tape thing for like 4 years, and just replaced it every 6 months - 1 year. The washer fix has lasted fine for quite a while now, but that's next if it ever comes back.

Good find, looks like that should resolve it, huh. I've been meaning to tear into that for a while now, but I figured they'd probably break and fall apart if I tried. $20 each, eh. Its good to see its finally been addressed, but it just peeves me that Nissan just now admits they screwed up roughly 20 years after the initial design and tons of trucks sold, and all their error will set you back is $40 for a a couple pieces of plastic. They're probably molded for 25cents each in a Taiwan sweatshop. Lovely. But hey, its cheaper than a fire at least.

That's what i'd be guessing too, at this point. Maybe run some more system cleaner for a bit and cruis around, but if anything that's a Band Aid. 88 or anybody, any suggestions on how to narrow down a possible injector issue? By the way, sorry if I'm just blind, what year is your truck? TBI or MPFI?

That's good stuff. Add to you "kit": duct tape, some wire, and a pair of vice grips. You can fix 90% of the problems in the world with those 3.

I've had a 40 series for about 5 years or so. Can't speak for the rest of the exhaust, as its still stock. Yeah, its a little louder and throatier, but you don't go and buy a louder Flowmaster muffler for quiet. Anyways, mine has lasted 5 years of abuse and occasional scrapes and such, but its good to go. I also have a set of Pacesetters waiting for install, so please post up.

That's a new one. I do believe we've heard guru, master, and such. Its good to know you've been deemed immortal though. Good man!

I don't see a way you're going to have to replace a fuel filter every 3 months, unless you're dumping stuff down into your tank from your local Gasolator & Taco Stand, or your fuel system is rotting away somehow and providing its own mess (unlikely). Maybe you really do have some injector issues. What injector product are you using? Have you tried a couple tanks in a row including the system cleaner product? Does anybody know a method for checking the injectors? 2nd, have you checked other stuff like the air filter and catalytic converter, etc.? Basically, other easy choke points.

Have you checked the computer for any error codes? There's a how-to in the Garage section. Maybe something is giong out on ya. Ditto on the rest of the stuff- cap and rotor, etc. I'd also be highly suspect of you getting bad gas, especially from somewhere like Safeway. Those places tend to go through tons of product. Have you verified that he MAF wiring is back together securely and such?

Where's my foot? *search* Oh, its around back, kicking you square in the ass. Something must have just been out of alignment, cause I pulled apart quick, checked it out, and put it back, and it works fine. There's a small trail down the street along a fence line in the trees, perfect to test. So here I am, in and out of 4wd, rolling, stopping to check for movement, repeat. I hear this "um, hello" and look up to see a woman standing on her back deck, wondering what this jackass was doing trail riding along her back yard on Christmas Eve. LOL

Calling Mr. Dumbass, hello, Mr. Dumbass! I have the FSM from K9. Sunova... maybe too much Hawaii sun on the brain? I'll take a look, and thanks. Its sitting till tomorrow, and now I'm going back to melt into the couch in the middle of a Bourne trilogy marathon.

Thanks, it missing the "stuff" inside the hub though, isn't it? Yeah, i've got a similar diagram, and I believe I have it right. Gonna check tomorrow. I guess I'm more wondering if there is a specific setup to putting it back together. You know, X part put in at this angle, then Y part put in next to engage Z part. I don't know if that makes sense, but basically the stuff I've seen just says to remove and reinstall, but doesn't mention if there is a specific "how" to put it back together do it, or if it doesn't matter, and just put the stuff in order and go.

Hey there, You'll see in my other recent post that I just replaced the driver's side CV shaft. I've got an issue with the auto hub, as the spring kind of "sprung" when I pulled it off (pieces got loose). I replaced it as best I could by memory and what made sense, as the instructions I've seen, as well as the Haynes manual, simply state "remove hub, install is the reverse of removal" and the pic isn't any better. Anyways, the hub appears to be stuck engaged, and it won't disengage after spinning the shaft by hand (when jacked up) nor after reversing a few feet. Does anybody have any insight into this, or a particular part/area to check out in the auto-hub? If it wasn't the holidays (and hence cash being tight), I'd rather just toss the auto's of course, but you know how it is...

Done! (with several breaks... hey, football was on! ) I ended up getting those flange bolts by starting there first before loosening or removing anything else. I locked in 4wd, then went at them one by one from the bottom of the truck where there's a lot more leverage to be had vs. a socket and long extension, using a 12 point wrench instead of a socket. A bit of heat from the torch (thanks Red for making me think again about heat!), then a wrench and cheater, and #1 was loose. One by one, they came free, then it was a breeze since everything else was already broken loose and cleaned from yesterday. I knocked it out quick, didn't have to remove the brake caliper, and I didn't even need to disconnect the tie rod end at the front of the knuckle like recommended elsewhere. Instead, I just removed the shock cause 1 bolt and 1 nut is so much easier. Then there was plenty of room for removal and reinstall of the new shaft by just swinging the knuckle out from the rear and being careful to watch the brake line. All in all, on a clean truck (read: no rust or bs), this would be a pretty straight-forward job for others thinking about it. Heck, a chunk of the project was making enough room in my tiny garage to pull the truck in. I did run into an issue with the auto-hub reinstall, but I'll post that seperately.

Well, I'm back at it. Part of the reason for giving up was that the local Pep Boys quoted about $200 installed. I went up first thing this morning, only to find that whoever quoted me happened to be off by, oh, another $200 or so. I knew that sounded too good to be true. I stopped on the way home and picked up a propane torch. Gonna move stuff around and hopefully squeeze the pig into the garage here in a few minutes to give it another shot. Got football on the tv in there and a full beer fridge, so wish me luck.

No torch heat available, although I should hook that up anyways for the future, and with the holidays, no time either. I tried various angles, impact with a mallet, etc. This repair didn't actually come up until thinking about it yesterday. I was going to just drive on the torn boot next weekend, then I figured I better try the split replacement boot I ordered from AC. Go figure, I've used one from them before and it was fine, but this one was waaaaay too small in diameter, it didn't come close. Ok then, I thought, and tracked down a replacement shaft from NAPA for $61. I soaked those bolts repeatedly for a few hours, but couldn't get them to budge. Seriously, I'm talking spinning them around to get full leverage, then slipping into 4WD and using a ratchet with a 2' cheater pipe over the ratchet handle, but no-go. I tried several of the bolts too, several times, just in case. I finally gave up and said "F" it. I put it all back together, thankfully in like 20 min or so as I had been cleaning and lubing things as they came off. I've got family stuff over the holiday, then work for the rest of the week, and then we're hauling people up to play in the snow next weekend. Pep Boys says they can do it for $75 labor regardless, and at this point, I've already blown a day off which sucks, so I call uncle. Hopefully they'll stick to the book price for labor, and let them figure out the damn bolts. We'll see. Tis the season and all that...

Hey there, yes I've read the How-To on replacement found HERE. I'm down to the 5 12-pointed bolts at the diff flange, and those things simply will not budge. Like everything on this truck, they're a little crusty and are soaking at the moment in PB Blaster. Did anybody else have a problem with these? The write-up seems to indicate that they're relatively easy to remove, but nothing on my truck is easy to remove. I've fought everything the whole way so far, as usual. Should I break out the impact wrench? Of course, I don't think I have 1/2" extensions that will reach that far in... grrr I'm close to the point of putting the whole thing back together, and shipping it off to a shop. The truck is torn down, and half in-half out of my garage cause it won't fit in, but its raining outside. Of course, that leaves me unable to move it or just leave it for the night, so hopefully somebody knows what's up.

Why do the older ones have 2 bungs? (too lazy to look ) I've got a set for my 94 MT still sitting in the box waiting for some free time, and they only have the 1 bung. Just curious what was the 2nd bung for on the older trucks? Oh, and did you post these "wrong" ones in the parts for sale section yet?

If you don't have a multimeter to test the wiring, you can buy a test light for like $1 or even make your own with a bulb and some wire.

Are you serious? You can fix that hatch in 5 min with a couple washers. Just remove the trim, unbolt the metal hoop (2 bolts), put in washers on either side, then hoop, and bolt back together while pushing the hoop thing as far forward toward the front of the truck as it will go. Almost guaranteed problem solved. Wonder what the body shop will charge you, LOL. They'll want to check your blinker fluid too, no doubt.

If you planning on wheeling your truck, do it up with the cage! There are tons of sites for info. out there. I don't know of anybody specific with Pathy cages, but chime in anybody if you're reading. Agreed on the early 4-Runners, they were basically Toyota trucks with an open bed, seats, and a basic top grafted onto the rear. It was a needed feature rather than a mod. But by all means, go for it! Please post up!

Hold up. So you want to get a super-rare Skyline... for cheap. Right drive is a problem though, so you need it converted to left drive. Gas mileage is a problem, so you want to DE-TUNE it down to regular fuel. WTF?! If you could even find and/or afford said car, why would you then go and destroy it? Take the advise of others (and yourself). Buy a 300ZXTT, Subaru WRX, Mitsubishi EVO, various Audi's (A4, A6, etc. but not as reliable), or may I suggest some others like a Supra (Turbo), heck even cheaper than the Skyline, and she'd get some looks, would be a gently used Corvette, baby Benz C-class AMG, BMW M3, etc. etc. etc. even if they're not AWD/4WD. LOL, you can pick up a older Ferrari 308 for around $20-25K and turn all sorts of heads around town, although the maintenance would be murder.

No biggie, getting stuck close to home or help is fun. That's good times, especially for whoever comes to get you, cause you'll never live that story down. Do that 50 miles in to the middle of nowhere, and you'll be singing a different tune.

PB is awesome, especially with repeated soakings over a few hours/days. That, a BFH, and an 18" long 1/2" breaker bar with a 3' cheater pipe, seems to be enough manipulation for most things...

5 cents for a dab of toothpaste. heh heh heh... Saw it a while ago on one of the Speed/Spike car shows, then tried it recently on our Acura CL. Worked like a charm, and I was super surprised. It removed all clouding and stuff, although I bet any rubbing compound and wax would probably work with a little elbow grease. Still, I'm liking these HID kits. I have Silverstars in both vehicles, as well as aftermarket lights on both (PIAA on the Pathy, APC on the Acura), but more is good.

First off, always always always disconnect the battery!!! Ok, lecture done. You say you still have back light illumination, but nothing else, so it sounds to me like you fried either the switched "ACC" circuit or the constant battery circuit. First off, check ALL your fuses. Not just anything mentioning "Radio." You never know what a previous owner might have hacked. The backlight on the deck usually runs via the "Illum" circuit for illumination, while the deck is powered at rest (not turned on) by a constant battery source (usually "BATT+" or similar) for the clocks and memory. When the stereo is actually on and functioning, its on a switched/accessory circuit, which is turned on by turning the ignition key to accessory and beyond. The easy test at this point is, disconnect all power at the deck (but leave ground), then find a close constant (Batt+) source or simply run a jumper wire from the battery to test the circuits (with a fuse inline, or maybe a test light). Try connecting to the constant to see if it gains any additional functions like the clock/display/numbers, etc. Then try connecting to ACC (switched) source to see if the deck powers up. If it works on the jumper, you killed something (a fuse or a fried wire) somewhere along the way. Happy hunting!