Mr. Pickles

Now there's a quote. Simon, you're a luck man.

Grand Cherokee = Grand Cherokee, AFIK, and regular Cherokee doesn't fit. They're built for the weight of the V8. I've had those front JGC springs in the rear of my truck for probably 4-5 years now, no problem.

Is it only touching the plastic fender flare? Of so, cut the flare to fit.

Yes, there is an option, and others may want to swap you for the "wing." The hinges change on these, so trucks with the "wing" have hinges that are also the mounts for what many call the "wind deflector." Those without these hinges/mounts simply have hinges attaching the back glass to the truck. You can easily make the swap with parts from a junkyard truck or another truck, but please don't toss the deflector and hinges, as somebody out there surely would like to pick them up from you.

Auburn, WA, is considering this now, up the road about 10 miles from here. They wanted to be pioneers a few years ago, and they made cash for a while. Now, not so much. My co-worker, among others (his teenage daughter being the cause) has been fighting these things too, due to the legality of charging the owner of the vehicle with no proof of whom is actually driving. Hopefully, others are to follow. This big-brother bull@!*% is driving me nuts. I have an elementary school at the end of my block, and I drive slow and respectfully in the neighborhood. They put in photo-radar in 2006-2007 school year in all school zones in the city limits (Bonney Lake, WA). Sounds like a good idea, right? Among literally the first to get caught, posted in the local paper... mayor and police chief's wife. Mysteriously, the photo-radar went away this year...

LOL, forgot about that show, that was amusing stuff (if drawn out and delayed). That's not a half bad idea though, as there is already an existing window tinting/blocking technology, I do believe. You can have a clear window, click a remote, and it will turn opaque. An alternative to window blinds. It usually takes a while, 30 seconds or so, but maybe it could be rigged to detect the flash or something else. Flash/blind/buh-bye

Nope, the solenoid trigger is similar, and no boot. I only remember cause my oil sensor wire's plug disentigrated, and I had to swap it out (with boot) from to a junkyard special. That boot likes to collect all sorts gunk over the years. That's another really swell Nissan design.

Yep, that's definately the oil pressure sensore wire. BTW, you spoke of corroded battery cable a year ago. Have you replaced it, or did you just clean it up? If not, you can get a new after market one for like $10 and replace it from the battery straight to the starter. No more problems.

Have you actually tested/had tested, or done ANYTHING yet to confirm that it is, in fact the alternator?? The battery light can come on for many reasons, like have been said: connections, wiring, loose/slipping belt, yes- the alternator itself, and... the battery. Most local auto parts places should be able to test it for free, some with it out of the truck, and many can hook up their machine and run quick tests on your whole charging system while the alternator is still in the rig. Why throw good money at it (especially at the dealer), without actually checking what the problem is?

As has been said before in other threads, rather than hacking the wiring further, I'd skip the stock wiring and simply run new wire from your new head unit to the speakers. The little more effort in routing the wire (pulling trim and sliding under the edge of the carpet, etc.) is made up for by not having to hack and re-route the factory junk, and you can have far better and cleaner wiring and signal without all the cutting and slicing by using a heavier gauge speaker wire. Just bypass the stock amp altogether, you'll save yourself a headache. While you're at it, skip the cheap junk replacement speakers unless you plan on dunking them in mud water. You can get some decent door speakers (Pioneer, Sony, etc.) from Walmart and other stores for like $30-40, if that, and they'll sound far better than $20 auto part store generic speakers. Just my $0.02.

Love it. Sadly, I've got no pics of my air time. There's some fun stuff, did a couple mini-Jim's, hill climbs, etc. Busted some stuff, fixed stuff, probably will bust it again. Good times.

If you plan ahead, gather the give supplies, any take a look around at what's where under your hood, it doesn't take all that long. Maybe a couple hours max if you take your time.

Agreed, I saw a 4-door Hardbody in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Not sure of the engine, but I can tell you this much though, if they offered that in here in the US back then, I'd be driving one rather than my Pathfinder for sure. The same 4 seat setup of the rig plus a truck bed, well alright. Yes, I know there are Frontier options available, that's a different price range and I like the older styling by far.

Stand up straight, and quit slouching man! Sheesh... I have 3+3 and 31's. The roof rack + lights = 7" tall, on top of a Yakima crossbar and tower setup. All-together, I'm looking at 6'9"-ish. Are you worried about fitting into a garage regularly, or just occassionally for repairs and stuff? If its the latter, I just push my door up an extra few inches on the track (no opener, its an old garage). If you have an opener, and just need to get it in occassionally, you can release the door from the opener and push up and/or lower your tire pressure to *shrink* the truck. Sometimes, you just won't fit in parking garages, plain and simple. You'll probably want to measure your truck and remember the magic number. I've had a few times where I've bumped up against the height guide on the way in and had to back out. Oh well, circle around and find another place to park.

People crack me up with the "you're gonna die" road trip list. I've talked to a few people who have made the trip, adn my co-worker ran the road up from here (near Seattle) to Anchorage and there-abouts in his RV, along with *another* RV and friends. Nothing much as far as incidents, other than a 2 hour backup for some highway construction, and a bunch of rock chips. He's in his late 60's, western WA born and raised, and yet he commented that it was incredibly long and there were tons of trees. Many other have said the same. I'm sure the ferry/ship ride would be awesome, though. I guess, just get up on your maintenance, carry some extra food and drink, tools and supplies, be careful, and get ready for a fun trip.

Do you have poly bushings? Because they will most likely squeek regardless. I have poly throughout my front suspension, so it chirps and sqeaks a bit, especially starting when stretching, or on a cold morning, and my stuff is well lubed. Nature of the beast... Wow, that's a screw-up. Sounds like either its the weld of course, or the hole is too small. Have you contacted them about the issue?

Search is good, as there is tons of info. here that can't properly be rehashed to answer your question. Be sure to expand the search dates back a few years and try the help suggestions when searching. There are tons of us that have done many different front suspension lifts, and many more who have specifically done the Jeep GC springs in back. You might want to add keywords for the search such as: Rough Country, Superlift, Calmini, Rancho, AC, install, etc. I believe there are some old stickies in the garage by 88Pathoffroad and others regarding the Jeep springs. Search away, and be sure to post up any specific questions you might come across.

That's what I'm thinking. If its $10 for a new boot, I can see the work figuring out in the end. For $25 (split boot) and my labor +cussing and fighting the damn thing vs. replacing it for $62 and not going in there again for hopefully a long time, I'd just replace it and call it good. The price of the split boot is already almost half that of the full shaft, minus the frustration.

I've done both now. Just looking at the manual, I probably wouldn't mess with replacing with a stock boot on the shaft, but that's up to you. The split boot is like $25, did ok, was a real PITA to install because its nasty messy with the grease and has stupidly small little nuts and bolts for a guy like me with bear paws to try and put through the rubber boot, and it eventually died again on the trail anyways. The reman'd shaft was $62 at Napa, and other than my stuff being crusty and tough to loosen the bolts at the diff (used some torch heat and leverage), it was pretty straight forward and worth it for the long haul. I could do another in 1/3 the time for sure. Next time around, I'll definately skip the split boot and do it right, be it a new boot or more likely a reman'd shaft. Just my $0.02. Just re-read. Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but isn't the inner boot a bit more of a PITA to do anyways, compared to the outside one?

I finally got around to doing the relay mod about 2 weeks ago. Its a night and day difference, for real. I've got Sylvania Silverstar bulbs (no flaming, please! , I like them regardless). They are MUCH brigher after. Its a little fuzzy at the moment, but IIRC it was reading something like 11.5V stock at the bulb, and closer to upper 12's after. Going by the stat's 88 posted back in the day, you do the math. Its sooo much brighter on a dark street, and I took it out for a test drive and my ricer-driving neighbors wanted to know what I had done to make them so bright. BTW, there was a question about that pic/schematic, and if it was accurate. Yes, its the same, just ignore the 2nd high beam headlight (the one that says "if present"). I think you're best off anyways by running new wiring all the way around at the given gauge and ignore the stock stuff all together. I ran 12 gauge throughout. Make the connections at the relay(s - if you're doing it for high beam too), battery, and at the headlight harnesses at the bulbs, and bypass the rest entirely. All told, I only did it for low beams for now since I have plenty of auxiliary lights, so $5 for the relay, maybe $2 worth of 12 gauge wire off a spool I already had, $2.50 for an inline buss fuse setup, and maybe $1 worth of connectors, zip ties and stuff plus a little elbow grease. Good to go. I was halfway curious to try the HID's a while back, and picked up a set of APC supposedly Euro-spec housings for a Hardbody that I was going to swap in, but I think I'll just stick with my stock setup and grill, thank you very much.

Has anybody tried Walmart SuperTech Synthetic? I figured why the hell not, and put it in last time around. The selling point was $12 for a 5 quart jug of full synthetic. Call me the crash test dummy. It seems great so far, and the Pathy is running like a top. I saw some online chatter about the oil being supplied by the same company(ies) that supply many top brands like Quaker State, although on review I couldn't confirm nor deny. I also realize I negated the experiment as I figured I would try the Restore engine treatment this time around. All in all, combined and 1500 miles later, I've noticed reduced oil consumption and the truck is running great.

*ding* Mitsubitchy, errr, I mean Sh_itsubishi... I will never own another Sh_itsubitchy ever again... ever... everevereverever...ever...again...

As stated above, get a little 4cyl car for the weekdays, keep the Pathy for the weekends. Nissan, Honda, Toyota, or similar. We got the wifey an Acura CL (a 2-door Accord in fancy clothes) with a V-Tech 4cyl a few years ago, and it gets low 30's on the hwy while wrapped in leather and it cruises quite comfy. Its a perfectly comfortable commuter and road trip car, and it can roll in traffic no problemo. My Pathy (31x12.5 MT's and 6" lift) gets around 12mpg around town or trail these days, and 15 to mayyybe max 16 on pretty flat highway. Lets just say, as 88 has pointed to, mileage just ain't pretty. Regardless of which gears that you swap in, 18mpg is great on a stock Pathy. Any sort of tire or lift mods, and it just isn't happing. That's a nice truck, and if its in as decent shape as it looks, it would be hard to replace. Keep it, play with it, and buy a daily driver.

Sometimes mine all but refuses 1st. I'll do full clutch, then just tip the shifter toward 2nd quickly on the way to shifting into 1st, it slides right in. Weird stuff, I just call it "character."