Mr. Pickles

Mine has sputtered for a sec upon start up for a few years now. It only seems to do it on cold mornings. Nothing too bad, give it a little gas and its fine. No harm, no foul so far.

Exactly, it fell all the way to the bottom, below any level of "E" I've ever seen, like a quarter tank below E. That's why at first I thought it wasn't working when I hooked everything back up, cause I guess it was so low it needed a bit to rise up. But now all is well, I drove around today then filled up this evening, and everything is fine. I even sqeaked out 16mpg on the last tank of almost all highway. Between lift, tires, etc. I've been down to about 15hwy/12city. Here is a pic of the pretty hilarious carnage. Notice all the scratch marks. I guess they little buggers didn't like me.

As I've now verified. Its funny how some of the stuff you see every day can slip through the cracks. This comp is irritating me, I want to post those pics, they're pretty funny. Maybe I'll try the other comp, but not tonight. Off to bed.

(insert rodent joke here) *snicker* All is better, back together and fully functional. Actual price: about 10cents in butt splices.

Yep, I'm almost there. Just finished the wiring, and the gas gauge still doesn't work but she fires right up. At least it runs now, cause we're supposed to get snow tomorrow. Now its time to tinker with the gauge wiring again.

That was my thought exactly, so I pulled the cover off and ta-da... freshly chewed up wiring. I'm talking mangled, and nice, clean and shiny. Its looks like something got in there and chewed it all up, maybe a squirrel or something. The truck ran fine Friday, then parked it until today (Monday) when the problems came up. Great... well time to clean that up and see what happens. P.S. I've got pics, but now the comp won't cooperate with either of our cameras. What the hell, this is definitely a Monday.

Oh, duh, the obvious stuff: 94 M/T

Woke up this morning to a no-start. pssd It turns over just fine, but doesn't even attempt to sputter or try to start. Checked the obvious fuses and they're fine, and I know I've got gas plus I dumped in a gallon or so more just to be safe, but that leads me to a question. I'm not sure I've paid attention, but doesn't the gauge come alive when you turn the key to on? Mine is below E, doesn't move, and I swear it did before (could be on crack though). If so, that would lead me toward the tank and maybe the fuel pump if they're attached. I'm hoping against spark issues of course... $. We'll see. I dunno, just walked in the door from work and figured I'd post to fish for ideas while I go out in the driveway to poke around. Wish me luck!

Unfortunatley, most of us are going to lose a nice stereo or CB first from a smash-and-go before a whole Pathy.

Ditto what 88 said. Look for a a kinda rubber/plastic inline fuse holder (at least on mine). I've heard they moved around and varied a little bit through the years, but that could just be from previous owners hacking at stuff. Can you find and trace a wire from the battery to a relay bolted somewhere around the upper passenger side firewall? That should be the circuit if its stock, and you should find the fuse somewhere inbetween.

Um.... 3" spacers? Please say your are somehow securing these...??? Assuming you have everything else loose and removed, and you are going about this install safely and have everything properly supported... I hope... why not just unbolt one end of the panhard rod, then install?

hahahahahaha.......... no chance. Ok, sorry. Best bet would be a factory LSD, or buy an aftermarket locker. Other than that on a 92, nada, sorry. The rears has a few options (barely) if you hunt around, front I think only one or 2 I think (ARB? LSD swap-in, can't remember). Anyways, its been covered many times, search is your friend.

Ditto on this, I used wood scraps- a couple 2x4's plus I think a 4x4 stacked. Whatever height you end up using, it doesn't hurt to go back and screw in say a 1/4 piece of plywood or similar on the side of the stack for stability. 2 1/4" or so wood slides up into the gap between the body and frame, so you should be in good shape, just wiggle. The plywood helps hold everthing together in the stack together if you're like me and did the install, lifting, etc. alone.

What he said. /\ I've had lowers sitting around for a year and a half cause I got lazy while replacing the UCA's and didn't go further. Please post up.

Yeah, mine are still sitting in the other room. Been too busy, hopefully Jan. or so they'll go on. My father-in-law is a wrench, and he said he'd like to help, but he's been over in Cambodia for a month. Dude has skillz. I guess we'll have some good father-son(inlaw) time in Jan.

Um... I just rode a sheet of ice down a local hill in the ice a couple weeks ago, crawling at maybe 1 or 2 mph if that in 1st gear and 4low completely on engine compression. The second I touched the brakes I went sideways and kissed the curb almost instantly. If you need lower gearing than that on anything close to stock tire diameter, you either have the to work on your driving or you have a deep wallet for new gears. Alternately, maybe you have a weak engine.

Manual is great for most everything except maybe the most technical creeping stuff, like has been said. All in all, I'd much rather have my 5sp. Its much more confidence-inspiring to me when you thunk solidly into a gear and have a direct control and feel of what is going on in the drivetrail. When you're on nasty hills and stuff, there's nothing like the solid feeling of dropping down to 4-low and creeping down under control in 1st gear. This is real nice on ice and snow, where you see of lot of other vehicles braking and sliding off and down. 2nd gear in 4-low will take you just about anywhere you could want to go really, with 1st for rare circumstances mostly unless you're into crawling. Of course a manual takes a little bit more finesse (not much though), but that just makes for a better driver, right?

Random thought- is the rear width (track?- distance between the tires) exactly the same as the front? I dunno, seems like it would make a difference, hence I'm asking. -thnkboutit-

Good plan. Balance and replace the jacked up BJ's. Those upper ball joints are pretty easy to replace, really, especially since you're tossing the old ones. That plus new bushings and general maintenance brought my sloppy wobbly steering back to nearly new. Good luck!

Then there's the Jeep 4.0 and the Ford 4.9/300 6cylinders...

Ditto on the mud, if no change, try rotating the rears to the front and/or having the fronts balanced. Maybe you tossed a weight or 2 from the rim, if so its no biggie.

*makes sure the log is uphill from Red's tent* sssh

Bah, I've towed 500 miles with a boat of about 2000-2500 loaded with gear and 4 people in the truck and only had a slight drop. Besides, mileage isn't he biggest concern, most of my trips would be within a couple hundred miles. Its that whole wind and rain beating on the tent while you're trying to sleep, along with the hanging arse over a log. Guess I'm getting old...

I've had the "pleasure" of teaching my wife as well as my ex, as well as a few friends and stuff. Ditto on the back roads or parking lots, working up to hills, and especially a little humor and relating to the student, etc. We've all been there. I'd also agree with spreading it out over many shorter trips, even if its just driving you around town to the grocery store or whatever. Just try not to be in a hurry to get somewhere. Nerves can get frayed if you try and teach it all in a couple power-learning sessions. Start off with the basics in a parking lot, move up to cruising around any back or country roads, dealing with quiet intersections and stuff, then move into town. I know its not good for the clutch, but I've found it helpful to spend a few min just getting a feel of things by sitting with the clutch right at the point of engagement, sliding slightly in and out, feathering in some gas, etc. It might take a little life off, but its invaluable for getting a feeling for the grab, easing the throttle in for smooth take offs, etc. I wouldn't stress a certain rpm to shift really, make it more of a "usually this is what you would do" kind of thing. Around town is fine, but don't stress shifting at say 2500rpm or something too much. What happens when they try to tackle a short freeway on-ramp, or the first time passing on a 2 lane road? That's obviously not a safe scenario for a new driver to lug the engine. Low revs are fine around town, but for safety's sake, there are times where nothing can replace a heavy and confident right foot winding it out. The little 3.0 isn't a torque monster, most of the power is on the top end, don't be afraid of them winding it up here and there within reason. I generally shift at 3k, but won't wince at 5k+ if needed, and it took some reassurances when teaching my wife to drive it, that its ok every once in a while, it won't explode or something. Oh, and I'd leave downshifting while braking off the learning plate until the fundamentals of shifting are sound. Even though it can seem pretty straight forward, it does worlds of confusion when all the new driver wants to do is simply stop. Save that for later and just let them use the brakes alone till they get a handle on the rest.

LOL, call me Captain Obvious, I forgot I have a manual! My brain must be recovering from birthday partying last night. 3500lb is the magic number. I'm shopping around some for a small travel trailer, hopefully that can be pulled behind the Pathy. I've found a few in the right weight range but nothing I wanna buy yet. Wish me luck!