cvdloc

Excellent, I'm going to try and tackle it tonight, stopping by napa on the way home (I do get a discount) and if they have it in stock I might see if I can get it replaced tonight But if it takes some time, can I just take it out and leave it cover up the end and still drive? Will that be safe, obs no 4wd

http://instagram.com/p/eJKVSUH2Ck/ Here is a couple short clips nothing special unfortunately all cherokee he took out his sway bar and wanted to see the rear flex lol not bad but still a heep. I did the first and third (third is where I broke my shaft)

This is a little reassuring, I briefly looked at that thread before I posted this. And yes I have as seen on tv

Broke a cv shaft story in general forums

Out enjoying the beautiful day (34 degrees) at the sandpits, with my friend in the Cherokee. Everything was fine, did lots of steep hill climbs, but there was one... 70' gentle 's' with a steep v shaped end, failed once then the heep did it twice (lifted 4.5" roughcrap (country)) so I gave her, mistake, picked passenger side went up an over the hump and snap... But still made it! Lol that's the only positive (btw all in 4lo) I disengaged 4 wheel went back into 2hi and drove home 5km slowly and quickly asked my sister to borrow her sunfire for work tomorrow since I don't want to get into this in the dark and I want to do my research... Now I never had this issue before, I have done a little searching but nothing to really claim I tried, so for get on my case this isn't a how do thread but any tips would be nice i know i need a special tool, something like a 12 star socket? Is there an 'easy way' to remove the shaft I have to find a replacement I just want it to be road worthy for the mean time. And with your guys experience is it worth it to go chromolies or whatever now? Planning an sas in a year but I do lot of wheeling what is the cost difference, and typical base price for one cv shaft. Maybe I can get a deal 87 nissan hardbody hustler 27 spline the z24 engine if that means anything and manual trans. Anyways feel free to make fun of me. I know I have been cursing this ifs so maybe it's karma if you believe in it. Maybe add your broken cv shaft stories, it will make me feel better

Plus one on vacuum leak, I run into the same problem with my z24 engine in my d21, same revs 1500-2000 then it drops to 1200-1500 then idles warm at 1000-1200 (I adjusted it to give it a higher idle to more or less hide the leak) a vacuum leak does not affect the motor at all, just makes it confused from what i understand. It looks like your has been adjusted as well as it has a higher than normal idle. There is a tool (no idea what it's called someone should know what it is) but it will find a leak if there is in a matter of minutes, otherwise you have to check your lines which can be very time consuming.

Crappy tire charged me 400$.... Fuuuuuuuuuuuuu Canadian tire!!!

Yes there is on wd21, same location in the back under the carpet. With my experiences most gas tanks are rusted on, without wd45 on the Bolts and feness, you will be snapping them, make sure this is your last resort. Within a month of getting my pathy (2-3 years ago) then fuel pump went, with the lack of npora and knowledge to my pathy I took it to Canadian tire, 1800$ later with 100% new fuel lines (gas tank pump lines filter everything) They bent me over and f...Ed me. Let me tell you once I figured out their was an access hatch in the rear, I blew up at them and wrote bad reviews on every site I could while sending emails out to management nothing came out of it but unless you want some high school student working on your truck, never go there lol well there is my morning rant.. Good luck with it

well whatever they end up being it will be an upgrade to whatever I have, soon ill be doing a ''members ride" thread, phase one is now beginning.. Nothing major just making it more off road worthy (torsion bar crank, rear tow hook, fixing and adding externals lights, etc) just thought i would introduce everyone to the hustler

Hmm would be interested in looking into that, I might give them a call and ask a couple questions wouldn't hurt, might help me out in the future... They use to have a 4 wheel nation in the lower mainland but not too sure what happen to it (4 wheel parts bought out 4 wheel nation if you didn't know) Then what would you recommend?

Ok did some research and all prices on 4 wheel parts are in us but I would only be paying 10$ more since the exchange rate it 1.05 and I doubt they do free shipping to Canada... But they do have locations in Canada. Anyone have experiences with 4 wheel parts and free shipping in Canada?

... Yeah just saw that now hmmm well I'm going with the excuse of my paranoia will kick in over drive since its an online order... I do live under 2 hour drive to their location in Washington, that's 60$ in gas there and back and look I'm alrighty saving 10$ in the positive, good day.. Yeah would have been smarter... I remember 186$ for upgraded pro comps but that might have been for the 5000's I just assumed 3000's ... Now that I think, that might be us price...

I forgot to mention that the reason I jumped on the 3000's is they don't carry the 1000's it would be a special order no refund plus paid in full on order. With the 3000's they carry them, so I have the refund option (if any of you remember my 95 pathy special ordered mm hubs, truck got wreaked, hubs came a week later, sol) and I didn't have to pay in full Thanks guys honestly if I didn't post up I probably would have special ordered the 1000's and if anyone's interested in a year... 10$ a shock

... Just ordered the 3000's lol wasn't expecting that to be honest, end cost is 200$ with boots should be 2-3 weeks the price difference was 40$ between them so really... Like one famous rapper said.. Yolo. Now I hope I didn't over charge, I see the link in persice1 they are roughly 40$ each with tax around the same.

Hey thanks for the reply guys (btw I'd be repla img all 4 shocks) so it's after work now I did a little research and found this on a jeep forum http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f238/pro-comp-es1000-771341/ Just reviews for the es1000 series and surprisingly mostly good (besides the one guy who said it would be a smoother ride if he just welded a steel bar in ) it seems like it's a good after market replacement for stock shocks. The issue with pick n pulls out here is that parts (common parts to say the lease) are very hard to come by, as soon as they come in they are snatched up fairly quickly. Yes a year is a long time, but also what will happen in that year? Will I even have money to do the swaps (I'm buying the engine first rebuilding then taking the hardbody off the road) that might not be until fall or winter of 2014 who knows? So maybe 3000's will be worth the extra 40-80$ I also do a lot of snowboarding (upwards to 30-50 times a year usually buy 2 season passes) another question for you guys... How well do shocks help handling in the snow? (I am running mt's with the snow flake) I'm going to do some research on the es3000's see what people say, ill go to the off road shop get a quote and look online as well. Thanks guys this info is making me think!!

So hopefully later today I will be ordering these shocks (es1000 pro comp) http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/4-Pro-Comp-ES1000-Shocks-with-4-Black-Shock-Boots.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&t_pn=S%2FDShockingES1000 Reason being I went cheap is because next summer ill be doing a sas/4bt swap it's just currently my shocks are non exsistant, makes rock crawling and gravel roads I pain in the butt. Since this is my daily driver and I go out off roading 1-3 times a week new shocks are a good investment. Now my questions are... Am I going too cheap? I'm not going to be using these for more than a year, the cost for me at north shore off road is 33$ a shock for the 1000's (42$ a shock for 3000's) How are your experiences with pro comp? Reliable? Will I have retail value after with the 3000's but not with the 1000's? Or am I just wasting my money and I should wait/invest in the sas Any opinion/advice is welcome, in the end I'm looking for a better on/off road ride until the swaps.

Hmm that is very interesting, both of my trucks d21 & wd21 were in excellent frame condition 9/10 but I know from being a welder that a lot of the metal is shipped over seas, that extra travel they might protect it better (fish oils etc) when the local plates might be shipped unprotected? I don't know I'm going on a long shot. for example when our square tube came shipped (over seas) it was very oily yet the base plates (5/8") got shipped across the street didn't come with oil on them. Also maybe the paint, different kinds wear differently? This is going to make me think...

Here I found this in the trucks for sale section on here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36267-1993-nissan-pathfinder-wd21-portlandor/?do=findComment&comment=679928 In his extra parts he has warn manual locking hubs for 75$, not a bad price at all (depending on condition) was uploaded earlier this morning... Not sure on the year of your pathy and if it will work... Just thought I would mention it

I agree with adamzan, I know you can buy replacements, not sure on the cost or if you can buy just the brake plates (might come in some bulls... Kit that has the other washers etc)... Might be worth it to grab manual hubs in the end? can't you tell I'm pro manual

That not a bad price at all.. Never thought to go to home depo

I ended up buying a 3" 30' at princess auto 27000lbs rating, comes in a case where I threw in a 5/8" and 3/4" shackles, and strap was on sale reg 70$ got it for 50$.

Yeah that's napa, honestly the best way is to use a discount, say you are a student even tho you haven't gone to school in years (I save roughly 60% on tools at lordco) use a friends account or a big company (drum brakes for my hardbody when from 50$ down to 30$ and even a brand new radiator for a jeep Cherokee cost us less than a 100$) but the issue is the larger discount is on bulk items and or common items. Tried to get warn hubs priced out, only got a 5% discount (but I talked to the guy and he went down to 15%) I always ask for the best deal, Bargon with them. Just little things I learned over the years, especially being in Vancouver, I only have north shore offroad (expensive as sh!t) for parts otherwise I'd be going to napa or lordco. It does seem a bit ridiculous, I agree with redpath88, go in and talk to them I'm sure it will be a lot cheaper. Atlease half the cost

Did my first tow out (in my hardbody) to my friends Cherokee and went surprisingly easy, obviously he was in reverse too. But we ran into a strap issue, all we had was a 15' chain with one hook and nothin on the other side, and a 2500kg nylon rope I use for work, neither worked. Ended up borrowing a strap, just reached, and worked no problem. Now tonight ill be getting a good strap (3" by 30') and 2 shackles, so when my friend gets stuck next I can pull him out without borrowing a strap I nicknamed my truck, first try nissan, haven't got stuck yet... Knock on wood

Lol well I didn't know about that. I had it so tight at one time when I tried to take the drum off it was taking the pads with it too haha Went for a longer cruise everything seems fine, brakes the same without the rear squeal, but I noticed (at lower speeds just coming to a stop) and rotating squeak, not sure if its front or rear, could be a warped rotor, honestly not too concerned about it.

Tackled drum brakes for the first time today... Always been scared, but went surprising easy... Only confusing part is adjusting afterwards, I did it so I could hear it scraping the drum, I'm sure it's fine, the adjuster will do it's job, rest drove it and it brakes fine... Does anyone want to add to this? How did you guys adjust it? Btw this is on my d21 4 banger so it has a different rear axle but I'm positive the drums work the same