cvdloc

Just to clarify, start from the rear, then passenger front, then drivers. I haven't done the rears in this truck yet, they haven't been an issue, but without abs this should be easy. I was going to ask about this, it's good you mentioned it

Damn... That is just a bad case of events all at once, luckily you got out of that with both your life and truck! Hell, pathfinders just have terrible exhaust and yours broke off nearly at the worst place lol

Damn that's a horror story, I'm sorry to hear that. The thing with mine, it's sucking in air, but there is no leaks, I sharpie marked my fluid, hasn't budged (the leaky caliper got replaced), I would almost try a junk yard if I had that issue, but out here in Vancouver they always have a few to choose from. I ended up getting the standard MC from centric off of rockauto, the one I posted was premium version, really is there a difference? It was 67$ total including shipping brand new with everything, it's just coming from NY to BC during Xmas, oh boy did I pick the best time! I am hoping that's my issue, then again I'm not too sure just replacing one thing at a time. It sucks not driving right now luckily I car pool to work so atlease I can still make money... To spend on the truck lol I'm trying not to go to a mechanic, I'm at the point where I can't trust them, been screwed over so many times just got fed up. I'm at the point where I'm comfortable tackling almost anything and or willing to learn lol plus all the money ill save, wonder what they would charge me to replace the MC when I'm doing it myself for under 70$ (Admin delete post above, I prematurely pressed post and it won't let me edit it) story of my life

Damn that's a horror story, I'm sorry to hear that. The thing with mine, it's sucking in air, but there is no leaks, I sharpie marked my fluid, hasn't budged (the leaky caliper got replaced), I would almost try a junk yard if I had that issue, but out here in Vancouver they always have a few to choose from. I ended up getting the standard MC from centric off

Yeah they look identical but I think the mounting bolts are different, I know on the HB it's only 2 bolts holding it on, if I'm not mistaken the PF has 3? disreguard, i think your right. they did offer 1" bore which is making me think, but with moving right after xmas im not wanting to play around. Anyways to update you guys I am ordering that one I posted, I called and asked them questions very helpful since I'm a first time buyer and the catalog was a bit overwhelming at first. I hope everything goes well since I have heard some story's with mistreated items, knowing the risk it's worth saving over 130$ (lordco $220 rockauto $85 including shipping)

So I'm tryin to look at rock auto to figure out which MC to get (since it's the third of the cost) I don't know which one to get I'm a bit overwelmed. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1210857,parttype,1836 There are some with a 15/16th bore? Even 1" bore... Is there a difference at all? Anyone with experience with this? I was thinking about this one... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1626882&cc=1210857 If anyone could confirm this it will help, I'm going to try to call rock auto maybe they can help me out but I'm at a family function, could be hard to get away lol, anyways thanks guys!

Personally I like it, but I'm a bit worried to actually use it lol, too flimsy. Anyways today I bleed the front brakes, everything went fine but when doing the passenger caliper, it was going good, even pressure, then sputtering... Didn't get better at all after. Went for a test drive around the neighbourhood and no brake pressure at all until it hits the floor then the rears locked up... Thinking of replacing the rubber lines, but that would cause issues right away, for the fact the it took the hole line to bleed threw to notice a leak. Do you guys think it's possible for the front seal in the master cylinder to go meaning the back brakes could still work? I know it's two different sections and the front brakes are closer to the booster? I did put my ear up to the MC and I could hear bubbly fluid moving, and I swear I saw bubbles in the fluid container which is making me think about replacing it... Anyways let me know what you guys think, I'm going to sleep on it, then tomorrow I'm going to make a decision on where to order it front, it would be nice to have it right away, might just cough up the money

Honestly I do not know, it came with a truck, asked the PO and he said the same thing. Although I do plan on making my own bumpers in the future after sas. Everything is held on by bolts nothing is welded, very stupid in my opinion. When I get access to a welder I am going to weld all the joints to stiffin it up (everything besides the mounting plate to the frame or bumper) the top bar is missing so ill be fitting a pipe in. Then when the time comes i will be selling this with everything you need to bolt on... Otherwise sorry I couldn't help you out, maybe someone will add to this?

I have been looking at my options and pricing things out, the calipers on the pathfinder are in good condition besides some surface rust, to think of it now I should have taken a day to sand em and paint them a cool colour but it's alrighty done, the things you think of after the job the passenger side caliper does have some wrinkly seals but no signs of leakage. Anyways I am trying to stay away from new parts on the front axle, since I was to do an sas in 6 or so months. But the MC won't be something I will want to cheap out on, besides the pathfinders is different from what I have been told. With the weekend now here, along with the rain, I'm going to jump into it and get it to a point where ill know what to replace or fix. Here is a photo of the master and booster if you guys see anything that pops out, looks bubbly under the MC on the booster, what you guys think? While emptying the old caliper this came out Bunch of black gunk, could be a sign of bad lines as well... And yes, that is a Tim's cup I am thinking of replacing the rubber hose, they can't be that much? I have been pricing out MC and here is the list I got... Napa $240 Lordco $220 Local Nissan Dealer $293 Alkorahil $188 Rockauto $50 - $120 Also priced out the brake booster just incase and it was $120 off of rockauto. Been also thinking its the fluid? I used it in my pathy, no issues, but maybe it just doesn't compute with my HB? It's typical gunk dot 3 of course And here is a photo of the busted stud... Really annoyed about this, I called the shop but I have to bring it down but at the moment I can't. I hope they will cover it. Also today I started the truck and let it get up to running temp keep things moving esspecially with cold weather, was pumping the brakes to see if I could get a little pressure, it did, only just but the engine was dropping rpm from 1500 to as low as 1000, kinda sounded like it could stall if I kept pumping, this bothers me... Could be normal but still, seems odd...

Curious on the cost? If you don't mind me asking

My pathy fuel light worked fine, it gave me 50k warning (should be correct) but hardbody well lets say I ran out of gas twice in 6 months of owning it... Anyways maybe an air bubble? My thoughts, hit a bump perfectly it sucked up some air, enough to kill the motor? Don't know if it's possible with road driving, I know sometimes in hard wheeling it can hiccup... Just my thoughts

So I came home to this.. So I went snowboarding... Weekend is close enough?

Update... Got the driver side caliper swapped out last night but while I was taking off the tire, the shop that repaired my leaky valve flippin cross threaded the bolt on and it snapped a stud... That pissed me off, watched the guy do it too, he just places the nut in his air gun and pushes it on, no wonder it f...ing cross threaded, gunna have an interesting phone call soon... Anyways hopefully when I get home it doesn't snow too much cause I'm going to throw on the other caliper and bleed the brakes, if it does the same thing, atlease I took care of the leaky calipers and I know it's the master cylinder.. I think, do you guys think it could be the brake booster? Not too sure how that thing works, tried following the lines but it disappeared under my air filter (it was getting dark out at the time) Anyways, does anyone know of the pathfinder MC will work for the hardbody? My brakes on the pathy are officially gone so I don't mind using it now... Riding the clutch and use of the e brake makes parking it on a hill a breeze Ill add photos later

Typical rust spots but in good condition, rear is smashed, had it up on parts but got no interested, pretty sure thread got deleted.. Ill throw I picture up in a second... It's a little muddy..

That what my gut feeling is.. It's acting funny. Been pondering about doing an up grade? But I have this weekend to fix it so its a bit out of the question... (Shoot some ideas if you got any for upgrades?) I will replace the caliper with the ones off my pathfinder, curious if the master cylinder off of the 95 xe will work? I know it's a vg30 and the truck is z24... Would anyone know? Would make it nice and cheap, but then I won't have brakes in my 95.... Maybe it's time to rip out the rear axle, tcase, etc and get rid of it.

I did driver side then passenger (if that's what you ment) if not I posted the steps I took above

So over the past couple days (after the long drive) the brakes have been decreasing meanin I have to pump it to get full brake pressure but after the drive to the car pool buddies house in the am I had next to no brake pressure even after pumping. So I thought, I just need to bleed them, just did that but it was strange, no difference even after 30-40 pumps, same bubbly spitting sound, like, it ooses out then spits.. Hasn't done this before, happened on both sides (only did fronts) This has me worries, so now I'm getting it towed back home (luckily got bcaa plus!) and I'm going to take a through look on the weekend, but I'm going to post a 'feeler' to see what you guys think. It has been a bit leaky, only driver side caliber, I come to a small leak daily, but hasn't been an issue. The past couple weeks thought it feels a bit soft when I first start it (pumping makes no difference) but its fine after a couple minutes of driving around, this makes me think the issue might be at the master cylinder... Anyways maybe I'm doing some wrong during bleeding so I'm going to tell you what process I go threw.. The truck is off while doing it, I open the valve, friend presses brakes, I wait for all sounds and fluid to stop, i close it, friend releases brakes, and repeat. Another thing I noticed is that the fluid barley drops, usually it falls quickly. Always kept it topped off so no air can get it. I am thinking that it's sucking in air at the calliper as the brakes are released thus causing no change... I can take the ones off my 95 pathfinder, I checked a couple months before to make sure they are the same so I'm going to swap em out. I just want to see what you guys think, how do I check my master cylinder to see if it's good? Have you guys experienced this? Truck is an 1987 nissan pickup z24

I would vouch for the napa "life time" cv shaft, but depends on what discount you get, otherwise rock auto would be your best bet. With all the crap that could have got in there with the boot toast, I would recommend replacing it before hard wheeling.

I like this idea, maybe incorporate the truck of the month? But I guess we have to skip September and October on the calendar

Do'h lol well that's cheaper should have thought of that before thanks for pointing it out

If you also look at the bolts that are used to torque your t bars, see how high up they are, some people have as much as 3" of exposed thread at the top (wouldn't recommend going any higher) if they are up that high and still has a sag to the front, I'd look into new t bars or replacements but that's an uncommon issue

It works. Anyways we will see, although it's a very nice set up

Oh snap, that would be a fair deal in shipping to Vancouver... But like you said you never know maybe the price would drop too but you got almost the exact set up I want, rodeo d44 locked with manual hubs, coil overs and even the gears I want to run. Is it set up for high steer too?

I'd be heavily interested in the sas set up for my hardbody, but that would be in a couple month... I highly doubt it will be around... Plus shipping might be a bit much, where are you located?

Thank you! Seems like punching a hole in some 1/4 - 3/8 steel is the cheapest route but isn't terrible for a proper fix.