cvdloc

This is like an issue I had in my pathy, twice before each auto trans went. I usually stopped and let it cool down and it would be fine. But it got so bad even stopped it wouldn't downshift.

I have a Haynes manual and it's the same write up for both engines. The nice difference is you dont have to remove the exhaust. I think I'm going to jack up the truck and inspect it, check the rust spots out cause what I'm starting to think is 'if this happened, what else could go' maybe it's not worth it?

Oh boy, well I crawled under the truck to get started by pre soaking the bolts and nuts and I came across this... Yeah that's my transmission cross member passenger side... Well clutch is now post poned until I can either find a welder to use or another truck. What do you guys think?

A list of friends you need to have: 1) electrician 2) plumber 3) mechanic Luckily I'm an electrician and I have a mechanic buddy, anyone want to be my plumber friend

Hey guys, I have the tools, I have the parts, and I have a place to do it, looks like tomorrow I'll be starting at this beast. I have been looking around on the forum and I can't find a how to on trans removal/instal and clutch replacement. Just considering making a how to thread on this. What do you guys think? Or did I just not look hard enough.

I am tackling this tomorrow in my 87 z24 d21. I have done this in my 95 when I did an auto to standard swap. I agree the top bolts are a huge PITA. I used extensions ad a swivel bit to get at these bolts, and honestly with some patience, it's not that bad, but as soon as you start swearing lol take a break. Luckily I have the factory body lift and that gives me 2" of clearance. For difficulty, honestly it's a lot of work, but it's fairly simple. Bolt off bolt on, the most difficult thing I came across was putting back the pivot arm onto the clip (something like that can't remember exactly the proper names) it takes some persuasion and I found that to be the biggest pain even more than the top bolts. About warrenty, my clutch, pressure plate, and bearing are under warrenty from napa. I also bought a torque wrench so I can do everything to spec. Highlighted all the torque specs in the Haynes manual. Including tools, parts and oil. Total cost is just over $300, huge savings. I'd shop around for a better deal, if you have a constant mechanic you keep going to talk him down a bit, make up a lie and say budget will do it for $900 (could back fire tho) or if the shop is empty, make a comment "oh you don't look too busy" they might be more willing to knock it down

Torque wrench is a good idea! Last time I used an air gun and I snapped one of the 6 bolts holding on the pressure plate. Very stupid of me, but drove it for a year and a half no issues so can't complain just won't make that mistake twice. As for the flywheel, I'm too cheap and if it looks nice I'll leave it.

Went out this morning and got the clutch and oil. I didn't know I was getting the whole kit! Kind of surprise it was only 140$ Anyways for that price can't complain, probably could have saved some more by ordering it off of rockauto but I didn't have time to wait for delivery. My worries were about the release bearing there to the left. I thought I'd have to use a gear puller to get it off and press it on to the housing but it just comes with a new housing with the bearing alright installed. Good don't have to worry about that now. For oil I just went with GL-4 75w90 for both transmission (2.4L) and tcase (2.2L). My truck is pre 90 so it doesn't take ATF. Also for 10$ I got a fluid pump. Mine is back home but it isn't worth the hassle, I just got a new one. Going to grab a 2x4 later and cut it up, I'm planning to use a bottle jack to support the engine, and then ill use the wheelie jack to wiggle the tranny out. I also might buy a 1/2 ratchet (only have 3/8th ratchet with a 1/2 adapter) And a couple 1/2 extension bits. And when this rain stops ill just into it. Fun time clutch time!

Thanks for the clarification nefarious!

Well I assumed he would unbolt it but I had a feeling he just wanted to torch something. But when you assume you make an ass of yourself lol

Lol that reminds me, here is a funny story about t-bar removal. Back when I was doing the auto to standard swap I had the donor truck jacked up and ready to go. I had to run out to grab something but I told my friend to remove the tbars. Well I came back to him torching the thing out! He got threw one but when I came back I stopped him and then unbolted the cross member and it litterly fell out. This is an excellent example of what NOT to do

Thanks ahardb0dy, I'm going to end up cranking the t-bars after wards since the truck has a 3-4" front lean to it. As of now the bolt heads hang down 1-2" below the cross member lol

So in the next couple days or by next week I'll be doing the clutch on my truck. Last time I did this was a couple years ago on my 95 pathy and that was an auto to standard swap. I have a few questions before I jump into it. Truck info: z24 5 speed manual 4x4 First is the suspension components (t-bar removal) if I remember correctly, I loosen off the bolts until I have slack, unbolt cross member and hammer out both the torsion bars and cross member as a whole. No need for making marks on how the splines line up? Second is in the Haynes manual it recommends that I use gear puller for the release bearing. Is this nessecary? I don't remember having to use this before? Lastly is fluid, I'm sceptical about this since the 5 speed I used in my 95 swap took 4.0L (vg30) of oil while my (z24) 5 speed only uses 2.4L... Seems fishy since the t-case uses 2.2L. Btw these numbers came from the Haynes manual. Anyways if you guys got tips and tricks feel free to mention them. Should be fun! Thanks guys!

I must have skipped over that when reading threw it. Silverton brings up a good point, maybe even communication between the two could be faulty? To me the abs shouldn't be kicking in when you have the truck jacked up. Maybe someone can duplicate this and see if the results match up to yours? Maybe it is the abs kicking in.

How does the rear cylinder look? Your seals could be busted?

Ended up tackling it today, actually fixed 2 battery issues today, mine and then my cousins corroded mess. Had to replace his terminals and give it a solid clean, it wouldn't even turn over it was that bad, but that's because he bought a gas dodge... Shame. I can tell you laying in the snow was not fun. Anyways it went fairly smoothly, ill take replace an alternator on a z24 anyday before I tackle the vg again, very accessible (for a nissan motor) not hitches at all except for a couple concerns... 1- this new connector seems awfully loose as in I can easily pull it out, won't go in any farther. Has anyone seen this issue before? What are those wires for anyways? 2- that big cylinder looking thing, what is that? It was on the old alternator so I stuck it on the new one, looks like a good way to short the alt. anyone seen this before? Needless to say it started up like a champ! warmed her up took her around the block, slide around in the snow, good to be back driving the hustler. Here is a photo of the engine bay with the new parts the red top looks nice, thinking about cleaning up the engine bay maybe throw some paint on a few things to make it look flashy but it runs so it isn't priority. Had to bundle up to tolerate being outside, overdressed? I think not!... And yes that is a pterodactyl on my balaclava...

You know what, that sounds very likely, it is currently -19 with wind chill and it's been sitting for 3 days. Also that might explain the hissing sound, it's could be the ice melting?

So when I went to boot my truck, mid way threw I took a look at the battery and it was a bit puffy at the sides so we stopped immidently. I noticed slight hissing sound, so I closed the hood and backed away. Looks like I'm not going anywhere tonight. I can say I'm a bit worried about removal of this battery, does anyone recommend any safe removal technics? Or do you think it will be safe tomorrow morning? This is the first time I came across this so that's why I'm asking questions. Heard too many horror stories about batteries exploding rather not be one of them. The hissing sound is what scares me... Something tells me that's not normal lol

I agree with the pro comp rims, my friends ride them and they will be my first choice if I don't go with bead locks.

Well I was planning to throw in the alt and battery today but when I woke up this morning it snowed 10cm and was still snowing... Damn forecaster said it was supposed to be mainly sunny... Then trying to get to the stores in my friends sunfire with bald tires, well that was a journey and a half. Needless to say we made it safely. As it was -10 an still snowing lightly I decided against doing it outside and ill wait until I can get a boot to go up to a buds place. Pictures and such ill upload tomorrow.

I looked that up alrighty, It seems like old style charging systems will wreak the dry cell batteries over time. But it seems like most modern chargers are capable with charging these type I found this quote on a forum from a guy who works at optima... He did say it would damage over time, but this is good information to know. I don't see an issue with the alternator causing a problem which came to mind. I am not upgrading my alternator just buying a recommended one from napa, don't see the need. Even if I run a winch and some extra lights the alternator will have more than enough to run everything.

So I borrowed a dc amp meter didn't realize it only goes up to 30A... Well that's kind of useless for that application lol I can solidly tell you this battery has more than 30A at crank lol Anyways I priced out some batteries call canadian tire and napa, both dont have a dry cell battery so I called interstate and I'm picking at a few can't really decide, I think ill be going for optima, here is the list Interstate mt7 agm $299 4year replacement Optima yellow top $229 3 " " Optima red top $199 3 " " I will be running a winch, aslong with external lights in the near future, it is worth it to get the yellow top? The nice phone lady said it holds a charge better but is it nessecary? Would be nice to install an inverter so I can plug in such and such accessories... Ah ill probably cheap out and go for the red top. Any inputs?

Yes, 11.2 before cranking no lights nothing one roughly one hour after a 30 min drive home.

So let me start by give you the story and signs leading up to now.. 6 weeks ago my radio kept turning off when hitting around 3000rpm (between 25-35 it varied) strange issue didn't think much of it at first thinking it could be the voltage regulator. Not sure if its internal or external on a 87 d21 2.4L Starting 4 days ago, every start cranks less and less and less, until this afternoon coming home from school, barely any crank at all, took a bit but it got going to make it home. Went out maybe 30 min ago with my volt meter measured 11.2v that's enough to crank over... Nope nothing, just a ting of the starter hitting the fly wheel tried a couple times, tapped my started, nothing. Tomorrow I'm going to borrow a clamp on dc amp meter to see what I'm getting to the starter cause it sounds like the battery isn't putting out enough amps to spin the motor which means the battery is pootched. I am also going to jump it get it going to measure the output of the alternator to see if indeed I cooked my battery and both need to be replace. Let me know what you guys think, I ordered an alternator just incase I do need it, should be here Friday $95 from napa. For choices of batteries I'm leaning towards the optima dry cell (red top) $200 but also been recommended motormaster's dry cell one $150. What do you guys think? Any other recommendations?

I noticed a difference in my 95 wd21 when I did the auto to manual swap, don't remember the exact number but it was noticeable, depending on how you drive it. Also things like air filter, check your fuel lines, any exhaust issues things like that would decrease mpg Manual hubs, if you have another reason besides fuel savings and have some money to spend then I would get them. But the cost for them would take you more than a year to make it worth it. Personal opinion