cvdloc

I noticed a difference in my 95 wd21 when I did the auto to manual swap, don't remember the exact number but it was noticeable, depending on how you drive it. Also things like air filter, check your fuel lines, any exhaust issues things like that would decrease mpg Manual hubs, if you have another reason besides fuel savings and have some money to spend then I would get them. But the cost for them would take you more than a year to make it worth it. Personal opinion

Sounds like the combination of the 3.3L and the automatic transmission is causing this issue. Manual hubs might improve it, but not noticeably maybe 1 mpg

Did you take the starter off and check the fly wheel, it's a possibility you knocked off some teeth?

Was looking at this the other day... Crazy amount of power coming from an 88lbs motor!

I would only think it would be worth it for the rear disc brakes aswell, atlease go for the combo if you go threw the effort, or swap the inners? I know early models the LSD had A higher breakaway strength that might be something to look into aswell

I agree with fleurys, pop the hub off and inspect it. Give it a wiggle. I can't really think what else it can be

Yeah in that photo I'm holding the other bushing/spacer next to the complete side, my spacer slid all the way threw the bushing lol like I said it's next to useless... New bolts/bushing and washers is 10$ at napa Make sure your lower compression rod bushing are good, that snaps, well lets hope your not on a hwy

Those are the only 2 good photos I have, I never got a chance to take a photo of his brackets and how he bolted it to the frame. Unfortunately he works 800km east of me and I won't see him for a couple months

This guy right? It's a stabilizer arm, goes between both LCA but if you remove it there is hardly a difference, that might be the cause but I doubt it. I would jack up the front and wiggly each wheel while looking at the steering components, everything should move together. Also get a friend in the drivers seat and do the same with the steering wheel. It could be a loose ball joint something that's making your wheel wander? Could be a couple different things. Your control are bushing could play a factor, check your lower compression rod bushings. Otherwise I notice tire pressure makes a huge difference, my drivers front leaks a bit, when it gets 5 psi lower there is a pull, pulls harder when braking

I would like to see the trail master 4" drop down kit come back, or something similar to drop the front diff / ifs components and stronger cv shafts beefed up to easily handle 35's, just my ideas.. The ifs torsion bar delete would be an awesome idea, something like a lengthening UCA and LCA to give you more travel have the tire stick out a little farther aswell, a long travel set up, would be cool but the cost would probably be as much as a sas. Would be hard to justify it. Cheaper gears would be very nice, when I told my jeep buddy gears just for the rear would cost $400-$500 he had a good laugh...

I have been thinking about this because well, I kinda like the stock bumper, here is that I have been thinking... Since a couple of my friends are iron workers then took some angle beam and just used 2 structural bolts with a shear point of 20,000 pounds + the body will fly off before that bumper budges. Anyways make that my main bumper then just weld on the stock bush guard to the front, strengthen as needed I think that would look sick, you'll have an excellent platform for a winch of any size, I can post a photo if you'd like he kinda has the look I'm thinking of, he has a bush guard welded on the front Anyways that's just what I was thinking? That stock bush guard is held on with brackets and it would be hard to make it structurally sound to handle even a small duty winch, also nissan bumpers are next to useless, personal opinion

What is your gear ratio now (inside engine bay passenger side should say HG 43 or 46) I'm going to assume 46. For 31's I would really recommend changing them (unless it's 4.37 them I would just upgrade to 4.63 gears) I ran 31's stoke gearing, even on my pick up which is 4.37, this is a little list I have developed for myself 31's - 4.63 33's - 4.9 35's - 5.13 Hope this helps!

The big difficulty is the computer and wiring. Meaning if you got a donor you can rip everything out and it should fit right in, might be a pain and confusing just label and photos and it shouldn't be terrible. I have done an auto to standard swap I left everything in but I unplugged close to 20 - 25 wires and only used 4 of them after. And you'll also need the torque converter (I think that's what it is called) and the gut there. Center consol And cross member! I was the idiot who scrapped the wrong one lol trip to the wreckers! My question is, why? Automatic is nice for wheeling but the older nissan autos are close to garbage... Unless you install and after market trans cooler/temp gauge so as soon as it goes above normal you can kill it, ill give the autos that after going threw 2 in less than a year, you see my anger lol Anyways, it isn't terrible from 1-10 I'd say 6 it'll take a bit tho

Thanks for the opinion, on paper, just seems like a bad idea, but like I said, people have done it before and haven't had issues plus I like the idea of the rear h233b being a 9.17 ring 31 spline (upgradeable to 33 spline xterra axle) instead of Dana 44 8.75 ring 28 spline (for sh..s and giggles Dana 60 9.75 ring 35 spline Ford 9" ring 28 or 31 spline) the nissan axle is stronger than a ford 9"!... On paper.. I wanted to keep my pathfinder rear axle and throw it in my pick up but the cost of after market parts... Too expensive, too bad the front h233b is a passenger pumpkin....

I recommend staying away from genuine nissan parts, like they have said, the parts are becoming less and less uncommon, but the price, the price is stupid, lower compression rod bushings, 80$ for a set of 4 (chances are you'll be replacing those) I heard people paid $20 for a set of polys

Do you ever use 4wd on pavement (I know this isn't recommended period) but wondering how it did then? If you have that is lol

I have seen this issue on an older Cherokee (whole side of it broke different style radiator) but same concept. Went to napa paid $100 for a brand new radiator secret special account and did a road side swap out and was back running 2 hours later!

You know what, I'm an idiot lol don't ask me what I was thinking, I know it's gear ratios oh boy

5 speed swap is a good idea, I have done it myself on my old 95 pathy after eating threw 2 autos. Does the 44 have selectable hubs? I just wanted to add to this, with 4.56 gears in the front and 4.63 in the rear, your ass end will want to push the truck, it will want to kick out, if you do have different gears you want the front to drag the rear. But in the end, it's your call, people have done it in the past and it hasn't been a terrible issue On the other note when I told my friend (jeep owner) that my pathfinder came stock with 4.63 gears he gave me the weirdest look

The pathfinder should be 4.63, on the plate inside the engine compartment should say something like HG46 or 43 (which would be 4.37) I would also recommend going with the 5.13 gears. Personally I think I'm swapping both of my axles for Dana 44 so I can run the exact same gears. More wear if they are mismatched, your tcase will not like you either, but if this is going to be an offroad rig (more than 75% off road) you would be fine but if it's going to be your dd, I would look into other options, just my opinion.

Today I tackled the master cylinder, got a bench bleeder kit, made it go easily also helped when I was bleeding the brakes. Also I picked up a set of flare nut wrenches which made taking the brake lines off a breeze, highly recommend anyone to buy a small set (princess auto $10 5pc set). When I took the old MC off I noticed a lot of crud and small traces of fluid, thus the leak was coming from the rear seal which still made the rears lock up due to the design. I cleaned it off and installed the new MC. Then it came time to bleed. Since this time I had my mechanic friend with me, he explained the best way to bleed the brakes, took less than 10 minutes all the way around. I'm going to explain both processes Old way: open bleeder, press brake, close bleeder, release brakes, & repeat 20-50 times Better way faster time saver way: pump brakes 4-5 times, open bleeder, close bleeder, release brakes, repeat 3-6 times Afterwards took it for a test drive, brakes like new! Should have went with my gut and bought it sooner but I was still hoping it wasn't. Went for a good solid drive marked the fluid off, saw no decrease, I am going to rebleed the system tomorrow or the day after just to get the remaining air out. Then I went night mudding with the homie.. Ahh it was good to be back driving, plans are to head out tomorrow for a little day trip since homies are in town with their lifted heeps. Might throw up a photo or two, probably more. Bench bleeder, I plugged one of the fronts because it was a 2 port kit. How have you guys done it in the past?

I like the trangulated 4 link in the rear, planning the same for my hardbody, just curious on the cross member for your rear links. It looks like a straight piece of square tubing?

Well that wouldn't be a bad idea eh? I know the thing didn't come with a kit for that, maybe Boxing Day ill have to make a run to the parts store and buy a kit, I don't have anything that would work for a homemade set up unfortunately

I haven't been driving it at all to clarify, it has been sitting. Traffic is bad enough in Vancouver it's not worth the risk. But I did get an early Christmas present The master came in today!! Which meaning I should be able to install this Boxing Day and be back on the road!! When I throw this one on ill take the old one and compare it to my pathfinder, side by side, I don't know what the difference is, same 3 port, rear drums so it might even be the same bore 15/16 but I don't know maybe the brake booster has different bolt patterns? Thanks for the information ahardb0dy!

I think the only difference is the bore size... But I am sceptical, the Japanese do funky things... Dual spark plugs