cvdloc

Hey Alkorahil, how much is the cost on those parts? Just curious..

Maybe wasn't ment for your year? Wrong part it sounds like to me

I know that ahardbody on here just had a hole punched in a 3/8 steel plate if I remember correctly and just welded it over top replacing isn't nessecary. Had the same issue if you can see my hole is starting to look like an egg I just grinded it flat since sas is happening in the spring. And honestly in hard wheeling I can still here it hit so I remcommend fixing it

I have a 95 auto but I threw a standard in and never swapped out the computer, hopefully scrapping it soon? Anyways I'd have to say 94-95 since they are the same style, but you can check what tranny you have by the plate in your engine bay on the passenger side, and look up what models you can use.

I could understand that someone didn't use big enough pipe and it could suffocate the motor? But that's far fetched..

Newer pathfinders, meaning r50's not sure on the years but I'm sure someone can fill that in

I have used that method before, works very well. Organization is as important as the work you do, but we all learn the hard way but being an electrician white electrical tape is as important to me as duct tape to red green lol labelling is religious to me.

It doesn't look at bad in the picture than it actually is, I'm glad you guys are ok and congrats on the upgrade to the 3.5L

Ah I remember this 2 clearly.... Like what precise1 said extensions and a swivel. Honestly easier to put them back in then to take them out. And LABEL too I noticed different bolt lengths and such, I was the idiot who mixed all the bolts together including the donors bolts don't do this.. I didn't raise the body or loosen the mounts and no body lift on my old 95', it unnecessary.

That's what I was thinking.. Body lifts are a pain to do, a lot of work if you think about it, also the bumper relocation mounts (for 3" body) make your bumper next to useless, but yes there are ways to get around that issue.

Usually it's 500$ from icbc, could be different?

Could always crank the tbar and throw in stiffer coils in the rear? I know that should lift it 1-2" if I'm not mistaken

Like what hytekrednek said 3" is cheaper comes in a kit for 400$ at most with the extensions and such (correct me if I'm wrong) with 2" it's more uncommon (can't be that much more)... I have seen more 1 1/2" body lifts (on pathys and hbs) than i have 2". Personally I hate body lifts (up there with spacers and blocks ), it's handy for tire clearance without chopping the fenders and for looks... I have seen the 3" body lifts before and to me they look funny, you have a bigger frame to body gap.

What?! CC D21!! Hahah never heard of that until now, damn... They look butt ugly but still, CC! Man I would almost kill for a 4.2 L diesel patrol... I was even thinking of swapping a td42 into my hardbody but now I'm thinking twice, sure I could stay nissan, it's just parts... Engine breaks down, your waiting a couple weeks for parts to be shipping from Japan, and the cost too. Almost too much, but we will see. Might just go with the tried and true Chevy small block, or if I have the money LS1... Drool.. anyways I'm going way off topic

been there done that hahah never goes well lol Thanks for the correction, I didn't consider the idler arm that could be it... Could have tapered the hole? Atlease you can do a side by side comparison. And yes, aftermarket support is obsolete... Unless your over seas you have a bit more options but still. It's something that plagues nissan owners...

Thanks kingman, I didn't know a vacuum leak would make the engine idle higher, I know it would make it erratic.

Ah another d21 owner! Hardbody unit! Anyways to answer your question, I'd grab a buddy have him jump in the driver seat and steer from left to right while your under the front taking a look at the steering components, see what moves and what doesn't, this should easily point out the issue, my guess would be a ball joint or where the pitman arm attaches to the steering rod (sorry for lack of better terminology) I wouldn't do this test when the truck is on stands, do it under load the issue might disappear when the front suspension drops (if you know what I mean, if you ever take a look when it's on stands both wheels point inwards)

Someone might have tuned the idle up high to hide a vacuum leak? I know this is the case with my hardbody with the z24 carborated... Not sure if you can or how you could tune a vg30?

Tire pressure is even?

As an electrician I am excited to see how these look broken apart, just saying you might want to take some photos I would agree, open circuit, check the brushes for dirt and grim then test the leads (if you got a voltmeter) my best guess is it shorted out which burnt a wire open

I agree, 3 inches of lift will make cvs act funny. It wouldn't hurt to buy another cv shaft, could be a faulty part? Then if it doesn't work, you have a spare for the road.

Thanks for the information guys! I think as it sits I'm going to bandaid it up, I'm moving to a colder climate for the winter, and as a heavy snowboarder I spend 2-3 days on a mountain a week so maybe gorilla snot or thickening agent isn't the best idea, just use thicker fluid instead of ATF. Anyways when I inspect the pathfinders steering gear I might replace the seals then just to give it new life one less thing to worry about going wrong. But we won't know until we pull it off eh.

Hmm yes the unibody r50's lol my bad. I would go with what devonianwalk says, extreme angles.

Could be your lower compression arm? Mine use to clunk when I braked, replaced bushings no issues since, and yes I did brake a cv shaft before hand

Alright thanks, ill look for that. Yeah, I'm not too concerned about it, like I said it steers fine just looks nasty pathfinders is nice and clean, had no steering issues at all so that will be the ideal option. Why not, hoping to scrap the pathy before the end of the month taking everything I can, doesn't look pretty covered in mud sitting in the driveway with a tarp covering half of it