01Pathmaker

IIRC the abs system does a self check at each startup. Kyle is correct though, if the system does in fact have some sort of failure, the abs light should come on. Find a reputable local mechanic with a scan tool cable of reading into the abs system, trust me, you don't want to just start guessing and throwing parts at it, it'll get real expensive and tedious very quickly.

They may or may not have an adapter available as a separate piece, usually they include the appropriate adapter (provided one is used and available) when you purchase speakers for your specific application. I've upgraded the speakers in my 96 without adapters, just cut the factory plugs off and crimped on the appropriate connectors, used the diagram in the fsm to make sure I utilized the correct wires for positive and negative.

^^^Bingo! They're a great resource for all things to do with automotive electronics. Even if you don't end up buying from them, their website is a wealth of information, but personally I find it's not worth saving a few bucks to buy the stuff elsewhere, as Crutchfield has great product and tech support, before, during and after the sale.

Very true words spoken there, whether it's a vehicle, boat or house, it's never really done.

IIRC the shocks most recommend with a 4" sfd are from the rear of a 2WD f250, however I don't recall the year range that they use. I've seen it posted here a bunch, maybe shoot Hawirish a pm, he's done extensive work and research with a bunch of different setups, he might be able to point you in the right direction.

This thing just keeps getting more BA all the time! I bet you never thought you'd be in this deep with just a little pathfinder. Lol

Hahaha! Don't fret, there's always next time.

Congrats Patrick! A great guy with a sweet ride for sure! I'm sure others would agree that you're a great asset to this forum.

Good deal! Glad you were able to reuse them, quite crafty sir.

Left the 96 out of the garage for the night so mother nature can wash it.

All the more reason to cannibalize my 96 when the time comes, swap the front diff and rear ham over to the 01. Now, if I can find my unicorn (01-02 4x4 se 5spd with gray cloth and sunroof) I'll be a very happy man.

Even with doubling the t-case I would rather have the vq35. Owning both, I can tell you first hand that my 01 (vq35) has required far less maintenance and runs much more smoothly than my 96 (vg33). You're also talking 170hp vs 240hp, and the 3.5 feels like MUCH more torque (moot point for you). 3.3 as you're aware, is an interference motor with a timing belt, distributor, plugs and wires, all of which require more frequent maintenance. The 3.5 has a timing chain (only requires guides typically between 150-200k miles), and a coil on plug system, and it's much more responsive IMO. Ultimately the choice is yours, but if I were looking to do what you're doing, and the funds were there, I'd seek out a clean, lower mileage 01 or 02 (IIRC 03-04 switched over to drive by wire, personally I like having an actual throttle cable instead of sensors and wires) and swap my goods over. As far as longevity goes, with proper maintenance, I've seen both motors still running strong over the 200k mile mark. Good luck with your decision, and happy hunting if you decide on the newer platform.

And here I thought I was wrong to vote and not post...

Pretty impressive range here. Just turned 40 in June, if this thread wasn't resurrected for another 10 months I'd be in a whole new bracket! Phew! :O

I've been chasing a similar vibration on my 01 for a while now, I also run manual hubs. So far I've replaced all u-joints front and rear, cv shafts (mainly due to torn boots and all kinds of grit in there), front struts, rear brakes w/new wheel cylinders and hardware kit (had a stuck piston in a wheel cylinder causing it to hang up a cause a shudder). All these items were worn and due to be replaced, and vibration seems to slightly decrease with each repair. Next on the list is rear shocks, front lower control arms (this will take care of ball joints and lca bushings in one shot), rebalance wheels and a fresh alignment. I'll keep you posted on my progress, you keep me posted on your findings...

Kyb, Gabriel, Monroe, Rancho (I'm not sure if they still do but they did), OME, Sensen, and maybe 1 or 2 others I'm not remembering, all make struts for the R50's. I run kyb's in my 01 and Sensen on my 96, Sensen seems to be valve a bit softer, probably similar to the Monroe.

This greatly depends on what year/engine, my 96 with vg33 says 87, my 01 with vq35 recommends 91-93 (even has a sticker inside filler door "premium fuel recommended"), a friends 03 (also vq35) recommends "minimum 89" (I believe nissan played with the ecu at some point). Just an FYI.

Wow! Looks like you had quite an adventure, and a real "holy sh*t" moment! Awesome pics too, thanks for sharing. We love it up in Maine, can't wait to get back up there. I'd love to check out some of those trails and the crash site sometime. Will be great when my girls are old enough to enjoy stuff like that (currently 7mo & 2.5yrs).

Not all brake line issues cause a visual deformity. Things to check: brake hose isn't twisted (seen it a few times when things are put back together in haste); slide pins are free and lubed; if these things don't turn anything up try cracking the bleeder to see if that relieves pressure and allow the piston to retract. I've had hoses where the inner portion had collapsed with no visible indication on the our (rubber) jacket.

This must be one of those lifetime warranties that is only good for the life of the failed part! Kind of like a good old fashioned taillight guarantee, it's guaranteed to work until they can't see your taillights anymore! Lol

Pre-facelift (96-99) came with 15's, they'll clear just fine as long as your backspace is at least stock or greater. Facelifted (99.5-04) came with 16's (17 on later model LE & Platinum), these have clearance issues when new pads are installed.

Oem strut bearings are plastic/plastic

Some really great (and interesting) info here. Staying tuned to learn more! I'd love to do a rear disc brake conversion on at least one of my r50's.

Whoa! Don't mess with that! That is a ballistic device that clears mines so you don't trash your duratracs! ;D Sorry, couldn't resist, actually I don't think I've come across that on either of mine (96 & 01). Looks like possibly some sort of pollution control device?

Sorry for your loss, but congrats on scoring the pathy. Sounds to me like a real basket case, so you should sell it to me for really cheap! Just kidding, download the fsm as suggested and check your u-joints on the rear driveshaft, these are non-greasable from the factory and like to bind, causing a thumping feeling at lower speeds and vibration the faster you go. Just did them on my 01 about a month ago, so much better now.