01Pathmaker

Ok. If I remember correctly, the seller said it's got 155k on it. If that's the case, I'll have to find proof that it's already been done or plan on doing it soon (if I buy it). Just another point for negotiating! Pics look really clean, he says no rust and clean interior, asking $3200. We'll see what's what by the end of the week. Thanks.

You'd better check the application on those cat back exhausts you found, as I'm sure (unless they have just been released) the only exhaust available for the R50 (96-04) is stock replacement from Walker, Bosal, Autopart and maybe a few others. There have not been any performance exhaust systems offered.

Crafty! Also easy to pull the few screws for the mud flap and fender liner, peel it back a bit and get it cleaned out during tire rotations.

Unfortunately, it does sound like your booster is on its way out. I've never done one on an R50 so, sorry can't help with procedures.

Going to look at another '01 SE this week, but this one has the 5 speed manual (I'll be so happy to be back in a manual again!). What kind of miles are you guys logging before having to replace the clutch? I know there are many variables, just looking for a rough average, especially for the 3.5/5speed/4wd combo.

Both my Pathfinder s (96&01) and my Titan have rubber hoses from the tube on the axle run up to the frame, bought my Titan and the 01 Pathfinder new and they were already there.

Haw is correct, that hose is the breather for the rear axle, though it shouldn't be open ended. It should have a breather cap on it and it was run up inside a "crossmember" of the unibody, I'll look tomorrow when I'm under one of mine to see what it's held in with. When you say water it trapped in the resonator, am I correct in assuming you're talking about the one at the tail end of the exhaust? 1)There shouldn't be any water trapped in there. There should be a drain hole in the lowest area of the case on either the front or rear face (flat sides that pipes go in/out of), might be clogged. 2)Running the ac or defrost will not cause added moisture in the exhaust, there is a condensation drain tube that runs down the firewall and exits inboard of the framerail behind the right front tire.

Not really sure why they do that, mine have rusted/broken long ago with no obvious ill effects. I wouldn't worry too much about them.

That's a ground strap

That would be a good deal, afraid you might be right about shipping killing it, but worth a look. Whenever you get around to it, thanks.

YES! THAT LOOKS AMAZING! I've been kicking the idea around for a long while but never got around to digging up the bulb numbers and such, any chance you'll share that info? I've been running bulbs from those guys for years, probably close to 10 yrs in fact, with great results, the first pair I bought (stop/tail in my 01) are still going strong. Thanks for the new inspiration!

In my opinion it'd be a bad move to replace just one strut. I'm a real big fan of doing it once and doing it right.

You've got my interest, on my phone so I can't see where you're from so shipping might kill it, but any idea what you'd want to get for them shipped to 11980?

I have the mm's on my 01 with no issues at all.

^Ditto!

You should check the rack bushings, it's fairly common for them to deteriorate and give you sloppy steering, much cheaper and easier than replacing the rack.

One of my favorite oem wheels also, but rarely find them for sale and when I do aftermarket wheels are usually cheaper! Good score!

MT's are fine for snow if your off road in powder, not good on ice, packed or wet snow, and not too good in the rain either. For typical winter on road driving a simple rule of thumb is the more siping (the little "cuts" or "slices" in the treadblocks) the better. Just look at the "dedicated" winter tires, soft compound and tons of siping, as more biting edges provide better grip in those conditions. This is the reason Duratracs have become so popular, they are more aggressive than a typical AT so they can handle mud quite a bit better, yet have plenty of siping to provide good grip in wet/snow/ice, and also have a moderate compound to balance good traction with decent longevity. I've been plowing snow commercially for 22yrs now, my tires of choice (depending upon how the truck is used in the warm months) are General Grabber AT2 (a great all around AT with a touch on the more aggressive side), Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor (a great mild AT, excellent in most conditions but terrible in mud and smooth quiet long wearing with great street manners) and the Goodyear Duratrac.

You'll miss your duratracs, especially in the hardpack/icy snow.

Been running that trans fluid since it hit the market, with good results. As for the trans filter, yes change it, a good filter kit can be had for under $25 and it'll include everything you need, clean the pan, magnet and gasket surface real well. All other fluids should be changed as well.

Sounds like a good plan to me. You'll be happy with your tire choice.

My 01 vq35 is cable not drive by wire, did they change before they went to the r51 with the 4.0?

I was quite intrigued hearing you found hd rear springs, but alas, still only options are stock or md rates, booooo! At least you realized before you tore it down, that would have really sucked. Sorry man.

IIRC the auto uses kind of a heatsink type system, don't recall there being a resistor.

Yep, RockAuto has 'em.