01Pathmaker

Most likely the resistor if it's manual controls. Very easy and quick fix, I'll see if I can dig up the p/n.

Use of air tools with "manual" spring compressor is NOT recommended! The vibration from the air tool is the absolute number one reason of these type compressors becoming dislodged, causing a very violent and dangerous outcome, usually resulting in severe bodily injury. Please, NEVER use air/power tools on those. I've used several styles of "manual", as well as professional wall mounts. The job can be done safely and properly with either, wall mount (or cage type) with air tools is safer and faster, but manual with hand tools (done properly) will net the same results, just slower. I'm not trying to scare anyone out of doing it themselves, rather trying to ensure it's done safely.

A quick eBay search turned up some really cool xj options that were well priced too.

Some do it as an attempt to gain more mpg's, others (like myself) do it to save wear on all the front drive parts (especially those who have a lift installed). Just doesn't help much when the wife takes it to work, we get an unexpected snowfall, then I get the call:her "I think the 4wd is broken!", me "No, you have to lock the hubs...", her "Well that's stupid! I didn't realize we were stuck in the stone age!" Hahahaha!

Got down to 3°F last night(wind chill of -18°F), climbed to 17°(-10 wind chill) today, supposed to be a balmy 7 tonight and 28° tomorrow!

Been running the General AT2's on several vehicles for a while now and can tell you that they are worlds better than the old grabber at's. They have been great in all on road conditions (really shine in the snow), great in most off road situations (mainly backwoods hunting trails and the beach for me) except real slimy, greasy, thick mud. They are all getting good tread life too. I've had the coopers on a different truck, I'll just say I won't even consider them ever again. The BFG Rugged Terrains are ok (have a friend with them) but in my opinion not worth the extra money. Someone else mentioned the toyo and nitto all terrains, both I've had experience with, neither were impressive in any particular area, both were less than good in the snow. Basically, my personal preference is the Grabber AT2, from my experience, they are a very capable, good wearing, budget friendly tire, though they are a little louder than the others you're considering.

Ah, another nugget of useful "mysterious draw" info to store in the old noggem. Good find! Keep warm up there.

Priced one from RockAuto when I was going through my evap issues, they seemed to have the best price I could find. A jy unit would be risky, and (around here at least) all sales of anything with an electrical connection are final, no returns if it doesn't work.

Welcome! As always, good things come to those who wait! We could always use a little more aftermarket support for our highly underrated R50's. Best wishes on your endeavor.

Looks like a decent build. I've got 147k on my 01 with stock trailing arms, no NEED to replace them til they get sloppy (you'll feel the beginning of death wobble). May also want to look at the General Grabber AT2's, great (and pretty aggressive) all terrains, look good and very capable on and off road, with the exception of gooey mud. There also quite a bit less than the duratracs. Definitely do the shocks, struts and mounts, but get the oem mounts, at 137k your stock units are probably over a 100k past their prime.

Hahaha! Guess that qualifies as a whoops! Don't know how it's been up there, but here it's been waffling so much between warm and cold I get very leary when I come across ice on the trails. I just cringe and hope when I break through it isn't too soupy underneath.

Nice! What are you running for suspension/wheel/tire combo? (Or point me to your build thread if you have one) Looks very capable and good looking too.

Welcome! Looks like a nice ride for a decent price, good score! I've got 144k miles on my 01 (purchased new) and 172k on my 96 (beater/flip I picked up in August). I'm very confident I'll get at least another 100k out of my 01, if you take care of it, it'll take care of you.

I only use Cardone Select as they are new, not reman or rebuilt. Just replaced both on my 01, good pricing at RockAuto.com

You too!

Looks awesome! Merry Christmas!

That'll surely give you a vibration. I always use spicer u-joints when available, and always make sure they have grease fittings. I like to be able to lubricate moving parts whenever possible, gives me something to do while the oil is draining.

My other question revolves around the Moog oem replacement springs. 96 calls for 81113, 01 calls for 81115. Are they different rates? All "lift" springs are listed for 96-04, can't seem to find specs on these anywhere. I'd like to go with whichever has better weight carrying capabilities.

Searched and didn't come up with any definitive answers, so here goes: Can the AirLift 1000 kit be used with 4x4designs 1" spacers? It's either this or I go with AC medium duty rear springs and 1" spacers up front. I occasionally tow a trailer and my current oem springs are shot. Would like to hang on to the stock ride when not towing.

Actually, I stand corrected, those line are available (obviously) but the 2 that go from the load valve to the "quad" block and the short line from the load valve to the rubber hose were no longer available according to 3 different Nissan dealers and several online Nissan parts dealers. Still trying to figure out who the brain was that designed the braking system on these, 2 lines from the abs controller to a quad block to a load valve (that probably doesn't even work very well) then single line out from load valve to t block. This creates a non efficient abs system, as if 1 rear wheel starts to lock up, it'll modulate both rear wheels.

Gorgeous country up there s4. Yendor, quite the burger brigade you've got there! Looks like a very nice r50, a crew cab fronty and is that a wd21 hiding in the garage?

Dod some lines recently, all oem part numbers came up as no longer available. You are looking for 3/16" line with 10mm inverted flare. I don't recall what length I used for those, but a better option to crimping the rubber line (can damage older lines) is to use a string, starting at one end trace the string along the line, then mark or cut it when you get to the other end, lay it out flat and straight, measure it, go get a line closest to that length. I do remember that I did not cut/reflare those lines as the lengths available were close enough, just made some "lazy" bends to eat up some extra length. Also, to remove the old crusty fittings I typically just use vice grips as even the socket method rarely yields good results, you will want to use the correct size line wrench when putting things back together as open end wrenchs tend to not grab as well and can round even a new fitting. Also (VERY IMPORTANT!) make sure you can open all your rear bleeder screws, there are 3, one at each drum (wheel cylinder) and one on the load sensing valve (up above, follow the rubber line up beyond where it connects to the hard line). After replacing the line or lines, first open the one on the load valve and let it gravity bleed for a bit (keeping an eye on the master, don't let it run dry), once there's no more bubbles, then crack the ones on the drums and let them gravity bleed til no more bubbles come out, then follow normal bleeding procedures using the bleeders at the drums.

Mile Markers are under $100 and should hold up fine as long as you're not wheeling hard or major rock crawling.

Might have to play with it when i get some time, i have a new support and cover in the boxes, sitting in the garage waiting to go on my 01. A few months ago my wife decided it'd be fun to play bumper cars on her way to work, tweaked the support and tore a few holes in the cover, just been waiting to have the time to paint it and toss it on.

Ugh, figured it was not gonna be easy, or pretty. May have to play with this a little if/when time allows.