01Pathmaker

Pretty sure that's it, that's all I've found on mine ('96 & '01) in stock form. This is why when things like the tie rod ends, ball joints, u joints and such get tired, I replace them with greaseable units from Moog or Spicer.

It's located on top of a metal plate kind of bracket (both vacuum bypass valve and vacuum cut valve are next to each other on this bracket) above the rear axle, closer to the driver side. Don't be overly concerned, it's not something that's going to cause harm or leave you stranded somewhere, just might notice mpg's drop slightly. Very common that these get a bit cooked when the infamous exhaust connection over the axle rots out and the truck is still driven for a while.

If it is your tie rod ends or ball joints, I highly recommend Moog replacements as they are made very well (most times a little beefier than oem) and are greaseable. If there is one thing I truly dislike about our Nissans, it's their lack of grease fittings on steering, suspension and driveline parts.

Glad to hear you got 'er all fixed up!

After checking your cv, get your alignment done and remeasure. When the camber is thrown out of whack it can certainly effect height and angles.

I've got to get out of this thread! I'm getting waaaaay too many ideas now! Thanks a lot guys, I'm telling my wife that it's all your fault! Hahahaha!

Your the man S4! Thanks!

HOLY (insert your favorite expletive here)!! Oh yeah, I'm gonna have to figure this one out!

Cool, same route I may go, pn's should be on the boxes they come in. No rush, would just like to see if I can get them for a bit less. Thanks.

Are those Billies for a 2" lift? If so, would you mind passing the part number along? I'm possibly going up 2" an really like Bilstiens, just can't find the part number and ac seems a bit pricey on them.

Are tools different in Canada? I know all about the whole metric issue, but do you guys not have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 or 1" drive ratchets/sockets? I've never had an issue using these to remove this style drain plug. To the OP: I've only had this happen once, my solution was to find a large torx (star looking) socket that was just a touch larger than the now rounded opening, smacked it in there with a hammer, then fired up a small handheld propane torch, applied some heat to the area around the plug and presto! The old plug should certainly be replaced with a new one, so be sure you either have it, or can get one easily before removing it. Teflon tape or a little silicone sealant on the threads and proper torque will make it much easier next time.

I also spray Fluid Film up into all the holes in the subframes and crossmembers at least twice a year, to try to combat rust/corrosion from the inside as well.

Without going outside and looking for myself, you may have to remove either just the throttle body (requiring a throttle body gasket) or the plenum (which is the "upper" portion of the intake, requiring an intake plenum gasket). I'd have to look to be sure though. May I suggest if you do have to remove the plenum, this would be the perfect time to also replace your valve cover gaskets and spark plugs, as the vc gaskets are notorious for leaking at 130k+ and the plenum must be removed to do the driver side. Gaskets are cheap, consider it part of your preventive maintenance, while your in there.

^^Bingo!

^^Very good, common and easy fix if it is in fact the flange between the muffler and resonator. Unfortunately my muffler was rotted out, as was the resonator, my old exhaust came out in 4 pieces(without any cutting) when it was originally just 2! Lol.

Not a good idea, besides the issues others have brought up, if you put stronger lift supports on the hatch, the mounts would then need to be strengthened and reinforced, then comes the question of the hinge strength and so on. By the time you're done putting time and money into an unsure project like that, you could have bought or made a tiregate or rear bumper with a carrier.

I'm with rebelord on the whole spider issue, vial little creatures. The hose looked like it was a bit rough toward the middle though, might just be the way it looks on my phone...

Hmmmm, has the truck been sitting? Looks like something may have been chewing on that hose.

Good deal, looks like they were pretty thorough. Now it's time for your next mod!

I don't recall any coolant passage that would cause it to leak at the egr, it's possible that either a pressed plug (such as the one just above the egr in the photo) or a gasket in the vicinity could be leaking. Hard to diagnose without physically seeing it. Hope it gives you an idea though.

Just got the complete exhaust from rockauto.com (look in the vendor section for 5% off) delivered to my door for less than $225! Bosal muffler with pipes, Bosal resonator assembly and all the required rubber hangers(5) and gaskets (2 for front pipe flanges 1 o-ring for connection above rear axle).

Looks good man, you'll really like those Grabbers in the snow. Put a set (255/70/16) on my '01 just before a good dump last winter, I was cruising through 14"+ like it was on rails! So far, these are some of the best "do it all" tires I've had, great on dry/wet pavement, snow/ice, beach, hard-pack dirt and light mud. Haven't run them in deep gooey mud yet either.

Thorpe - that does appear to be your egr valve.

With many alternators, the output is minimal at and just above idle. This tends to be especially true for low quality rebuilt or remanufactured units. Most larger or more reputable repair shops will be able to test the output throughout the rpm range (some can even give you a printout of the results). My thinking is that this may be your issue since your lights come on after being at idle for a while, with a load. For $400 you could have bought a high quality aftermarket high output unit and done the install yourself (not all that difficult).

Lmao! Very true I'm sure.