01Pathmaker

If the turn signal socket can be installed in place of the corner marker light, couldn't you just splice in sockets from a 99.5-04? The facelifted R50 uses a dual filiment marker/turn signal combo.

You certainly don't NEED to do the port matching, but it would be well worth it if you do. Any decrease in turbulence, whether on the intake or exhaust side pays great dividends. But as jyeager stated, you really don't want to increase intake volume unless you plan to add a supercharger.

I know there was a writeup on it, but I can't for the life of me remember where this was posted. I'll try to find it when I get a chance.

The pump is very accessible via the access panel described in the other thread, but it seems the good info, suggestions and guidance are being overlooked. Either that or a lot more is going on that the op is not sharing. It's gotten tiresome...

The fsm is 1000x better than any Haynes or Chilton could ever be, plus it's FREE! To each his own, good luck on your journey of throwing parts at it...

Yes. I don't remember his name or even if he was on this forum as I downloaded this pic a long time ago, for inspirational purposes.

Ahh, back when she was so clean and purty, eh Steve. Lol Many of the better quality racks (Yakima, Surco, etc) have tire mounts available for their racks. Search away...

^^^HAHAHAHA!!!^^^ Yeah, and maybe it'll be a vq35 5spd 4x4 SE with a sunroof! No, seriously though, here in the states the rear carrier was lost by the mid-01 model year. There are very few 99.5-01's out there with a rear tire carrier and I'm willing to bet that IF you find one it'll have the vg33.

Pretty simple, put a straight edge across the back of the wheel (where the bead of the tire sits not the lip, but if you do measure from the lip just be sure to subtract the height of the lip from your measurement), measure from the mounting flange (where the wheel meets the rotor/drum, the opposite side of where the lug nuts go) to the straight edge (subtract the depth of the lip if necessary) and you have your backspace. http://www.vintagewheelworks.com/tech-offset.php

Have you checked the idle air valve as suggested above? If the timing wasn't messed with prior to this happening, I wouldn't expect it to be timing related.

Kudos on the rescue! Keep a cool head and it'll pay off. Had a very rough first few months with my dog, also a rescue, but after time and love she became the best dog I've ever had, she's 14 now (was about 1.5yrs when we got her) still perfect. Enjoy

That's always a good feeling. Lol

Too much math, my head hurts now! Since I plan on sticking with 31's until they wear out (or longer), and my max would be 33's, when I finally find the right daily for the wife and reclaim my 01, I'll be swapping the front diff and rear ham from the 96, essentially giving me factory like performance, on 31's from the 01.

Correct on the wd21 backspace, sorry, I was still in R50 mindset.

I've been wrenching for about 2yrs now and never heard of wheel width having an effect on turning radius. The 2 things that contribute to your given turning radius are wheelbase and cramp angle. Certainly such a slight difference won't decrease your turning radius, so that shouldn't even be a second thought. Ideally, if you can find 15x8's with 3.75" backspace, you'll be golden for your 31's as well as any future upgrades to a 12.5 tire. If you're looking at stuff off of a Chevy, you'll want something from an 87 or earlier pickup, or 91 or earlier suburban/blazer/Jimmy (all fullsize of course).

Looking good! Might want to play with your tire pressure a bit, looks like none of you outer tread touches, for the best wear and performance you want a nice even contact patch.

Tons of info on this if you use the search feature. Either search "p0325" or "knock sensor". You can also download the FSM from the garage section, it'll give you a thorough troubleshooting list.

Best deal I've found for front struts was from kyboutlet.com shipping was fast, prices were great, use discount code for cheap shipping. They have a great part finder on the site, but here are the p/n's for the struts 335015 and 335016. As for the rear Bilstien shocks for a 2" lift, I must have had a brain fart as the part number is the same 96-04 on these (according to AC), so here it is 24-185509. A quick Google search of that part # and you'll find the best price. Strut mounts and bearings, many suggest oem nissan, some have used aftermarket and had problems, others have not. When I last did them on my 01 I used oem parts and haven't had any issues or noise, on my 96 I used the no name ones that came as a package deal with Sensen struts from eBay, no issues or noise, ride fine, cheap and supposedly covered by a lifetime warranty. For the camber bolts you can go through your favorite online or local parts dealer, they're only a few bucks each, you'll need 2, 1 for each side.

Disregard, I'm a bonehead...

Glad to hear you got it open. Like I've always told the probies at the firehouse while teaching the forcible entry class "try before you pry", lol. Too many times I'd catch them off guard and they'd be beating the snot out of a door, I'd stop them, turn the knob and open the door! Always helps to try the simple things first, but don't get me wrong, I've had plenty of moments where I've overlooked the easy route too. Thanks for sharing your journey and resolution.

Great choice! On my phone browser so I can't see where you're from, and judging by the palm trees in the background it's probably not a concern of yours, but I have to say that these tires are downright magical in the snow. They're great to very good at everything else they've been through also, with the exception of thick gooey mud. They wear very well too.

...you'll be surprised at the capability of the R50, especially with the right tires, driver and a fee well chosen mods. Welcome by the way! Easiest donor for the steeper gears are any R50 with the 3.3 motor, which are seemingly a dime a dozen around here, found in either local junkyards or Craigslist for cheap. Many also have LSD rears which you could repack for better performance (extensive write up on here), combine that with a lokka and manual hubs up front (again, some great write ups here on both) and you'll basically have a 4 wheeled mountain goat. Of course if money is not a major factor, then you'll get the true "best of both worlds" with air lockers. Oh, and Hawairish has provided some very in - depth write ups, documenting his trails, errors and findings when it comes to axles and gearing for our rigs.

I'm no hardcore rock crawler by any means, but I've smacked mine on a few good stumps with no I'll effects.

I'll try to dig up the part # for the struts and I'm currently trying to hunt down the correct part # for the rear shocks, so I'll post that up also as soon as I come across it. I have the # for the 99.5-04 rear shocks, but 96-99 is different.

50psi on a Pathfinder is wayyyy too high, must ride like an empty garbage truck! Lol. I ran 50psi in E rated tires on my plow truck which had a big block motor, 600lbs of plow on front and 1 ton of salt in the bed, because that's what was needed to support that kind of load while maintaining an even contact patch. You want to laugh? Check the specs on the sticker on the drivers door jamb, IIRC it's like 28, but it's always best to find your sweet spot by looking for the flattest, most even contact patch you can get with your particular tires and typical load.