01Pathmaker

For what it's worth, you're not the only one experiencing the double pump issue, my 01 has been this way for as long as I can remember. The brakes aren't bad on the first hit, but the pedal is definitely higher and more firm with a second pump. Been through the entire system, even enlisted the help of a good friend who owns a repair shop, everything has checked out fine, bled everything, then power bled, no change. I've owed it since new, unfortunately I don't remember how they felt back then, but it's been this way for years.

Awesome work as always! I'm very interested to see the progression and adaptability of these brackets, and may be interested in picking up a set, but probably not off the 1st run, as I have other more pressing issues. Are you still going to build your own bumper around these? I'd really like to be able use a hitch style bumper, something like this https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DIY-XJ-F.html as I really like the versatility of a hitch mount winch, plus need to maintain the ability to use my Snowsport plow. Oh, and that upper skid design is great! I instantly thought about installing a red LED strip behind there, which is odd cause I'm definitely not the "flashy" type...

It's not terribly hard or scary as long as you use quality tools, take your time, be smart and safe. Most auto parts stores now do free tool rental, so no real loss if you get into it and decide you're still uncomfortable with it, just a bit of time. If that's the case, yank the other strut assembly out, load em up and bring them and all your new parts to a shop. No harm done.

Just another oil change, but also changed the air filter and in-cabin filters since it was time and they were a bit funky. Also cleaned all the glass, then actually cleaned the dash, center stack, console and door panels, since it's been a really long time! She's a bit happier now... Lol

Looking good! A couple quick questions; 1)For your 2" lift, did you do spacers or springs? 2)What size and backspace are those wheels, and are you running any spacers? And just one quick suggestion, you can pick up electrical conduit brackets and some metric bolt w/washers, remove your factory crossbars and mount that roof basket right to the rails. Gives it a much lower profile and a cleaner look. Thanks in advance for the info, I'm about a month away from another suspension overhaul and will be needing new tires, so I'm gathering as much info as possible, to see which direction I'm going to take.

I'm from the old schoool, change my engine oil every 3k, trans & t-case every 30k, front & rear diff every 50k, coolant every 60k, on older (2004 & older) stuff. The newer stuff I follow the "extreme conditions" recommendations in the book. My 01 R50 has 175k+, bought it new, put all but 2 miles on it, just maintenance & mods have been put into it, save for a bad sensor from time to time and the recent IAC gone bad, never a single mechanical failure (probably just jinxed it). I wouldn't be surprised if it rots away before it dies, but even that isn't nearly as bad as some I see around, and I'm on the beach a lot from April-October. She's not babied, pulls my 6x12 trailer fairly frequently, fabbed a front hitch that I use for my 7' Snowsport plow (for mine & 2 other long family driveways). Spend a bit on maintenance, pays dividends in reliability and longevity.

Good work! Had a slight noise from the rear on my 96, and the LSD wasn't working very well at all. I changed the rear diff fluid, it got a bit quieter and the LSD got a bit tighter, changed it out again when I did the next 2 oil changes. After a good thorough flush like that, it was nice and quiet and the LSD worked as it should. Worth a shot before tearing it apart.

I've been extremely impressed with my General Grabber AT2's. Have proven excellent in all but gooey mud. Have worn very well (65+k miles and still about 25% tread, wet traction beginning to suffer, snow still good) until recently, but that's because my kyb's seem to have worn out after only about 25k miles. My first set of kyb's weren't nearly this bad when I replaced them after ~60k. My first set were the old silver gr2's, replaced by the newer black excel's about 3 years ago. Now looking for other strut options.

Interesting, I never noticed the difference, but then again I couldn't pass up the deal I got on my milemarkers. I have to say that although I haven't had any functional issues, the quality of the chrome is terrible. After the first winter it began to peel off, and at this point my driver side is almost all pitted metal, pass side is about half peeling chrome/half pitted crap. Doesn't bother me much though, as long as they function as they should, I couldn't care less what they look like. Those RR's sure are purdy though! Lol

7443875662644624 good til Feb 11th

I would enlarge the center bore of the wheel. I would not want to compromise the structural integrity of the hubs themselves as that could potentially cause a catastrophic (even fatal) failure. Carefully enlarging the center of the wheel won't compromise anything, as these are lug centric, so as long as you don't go way overboard while hogging them out, you'll be good to go. And yes, I do remember being very impressed by how good those wheels looked with a manual hub poking through the center, far better than how my 01 looks.

Wow, not cool! It's not like that pathy would just blend in! Certainly has plenty of identifying features, but I'd keep eyes on Craigslist and such, all around that region for specific parts for sale. Either that or someone is "building" a similar rig. Any way you look at it, people suck. Sorry to hear.

If you're serious about doing a SFD, it would probably be a million times easier without the engine in way. Just a thought.

01-02 VQ's have a cable driven throttle, whereas 03-04 are drive-by-wire (electric). If your swap from the lower intake up (lower, plenum and throttle body), you should be good to go. I'm not a certified expert, but as far as I'm aware, there aren't any other differences.

I'll be interested to see what works for you here. Remember that the measured height of the spring is the "free" measurement, meaning with no load. Though the Ironman spring has a taller free height, the spring rate is probably quite a bit softer than the AC spring, which will likely net less lift once on the truck. Staying tuned to see the progression of your Terrano. Welcome to the R50 life!

Your rig looks awesome, delta. Makes me want to pick up another pre-facelift R50. I love my 01, but really do miss the slightly more rugged look of my 96.

https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/hd-adjustable-upper-rear-suspension-links-nissan-pathfinder-1987-2004-by-rugged-rocks-ocp-60145.html These guys also have adjustable lowers for the R50, as well.

Gotcha, yeah, I've heard some horror stories too. A friend of mine actually brought his into a different dealership after I had mine done and they wouldn't let the truck leave! They told him it was beyond repair and was too much of liability to let him drive away! I'm pretty sure that they just wanted to sell him a new vehicle instead of doing the repair, it didn't seem that bad. P.S. I added a pic request to my previous post, probably while you were writing this. If you wouldn't mind, that pic would help me out a bunch. Thanks!

Ewww, I'm no stranger to rust and rot, here on Long Island we've got plenty of road salt in the winter and I spend as much time as possible out on the ocean beaches in the summer (salt water). I'm guessing you've never taken advantage of the strut tower recall? Nissan actually has gusset plates that they've made that add structural integrity to the area, after they tear down, clean and rust proof the entire area. I had it done years ago, still looks good in there. Wish I could say the same for the rear wheel wells... Almost forgot, one quick pic request, when you have a chance, could you please post up a pic, looking front the front, of your cv angle while on level ground? I'm trying to make a final decision on what my upcoming suspension overhaul will be. Thanks!

Washed what seemed to be about a half-ton of grime and road salt off the old girl, didn't go crazy since we're only mid-winter, but she still cleans up pretty good.

Interesting, I've never had any issues with their stuff, but it has been a couple years since I've needed any "hard" parts from them. Duely noted.

They certainly should be covered. T Depending upon the dealer, they might not be immediately willing, as sometimes they can be very frustrating to deal with. If they try to deny it, don't be afraid to let them know you're going to make a corporate complaint, and if need be, actually do that. It doesn't always come to that, as some dealerships are much easier to deal with. Best of luck and post back with your progress.

Sorry I'm a little late on this, but Moog, which I've used on every vehicle for years, without issue, new LCA's with bushings are available for around $55 each. Just thought it'd be worth mentioning. Cheers

Yet another incredibly awesome idea from your insanely creative mind! Latest mock up looks great! As with most of your projects, I can't wait to see how this comes together. I'm really hopeful that once you've finished the R&D phase, that you can offer a reasonably priced kit. Keep up the good work, my friend. Think on!

That's terrible, my thoughts and prayers are with his family.