Manik

Yup, they are! At least it'd be fun for 30 seconds. ::biggrin:: Bubba.....[emoji481]

I'd start with a 3" body lift, 35x12.5x15 rollers and a full exo-cage. Front bumper would be Baja style, with a winch and an extra wide stinger (for front end protection). Undercarriage skid plates, #9 expanded sheet metal over all of the glass and various other body armor. I'd also have a variety of axes, machete's, handguns and tactical weapons as well as the front mounted flame-thrower. I think i'd also like a roof mounted gatling gun just for grins.....

Sure, why not! Bubba.....[emoji481]

Triple A's number for the next time she breaks down, which is all to often it seems. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Thinking about seriously pushing it off into the friggin lake at this point.. This thing is plagued with issues, or just plain hates me I'm not sure. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Thanks Pav, I'll look into it. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Rebuilding and rebooting the CV axles I meant. Bubba.....[emoji481]

I'd check the cv boots, if there in good shape, I'd blame the hubs. My cv boots were shot for the better part of two years driving on anything from asphalt to mud and wet sand, still made zero noise. I get a similar noise in my hubs in 4-Lo/reverse, not in forward though. I plan on swapping to manual hubs eventually. I serviced the auto hubs when I dropped the engine in a few months ago, along with rebuilding/rebooting them at the same time I did the engine swap. CV's usually are more noisy when their loaded and turning. Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Doubt it's fuel, put gas in her two/three times from different places and the light still goes on and off. It's gotta be wiring issue. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Oh, I added a quart of castrol 20w50 to the oil recycling system under the hood... DOH! Bubba.....[emoji481]

Need to pull mine off and straighten it out. It was bent when I bought it 9+ years ago. May just rebuild it and incorporate a Gerry can. Bubba.....[emoji481]

That'd be cool, thanks Pav. Bubba.....[emoji481]

Will have to check on it for sure, but, now the lights off, but, issue hasn't been forgotten. Relocation kit huh, hmm, anyone have a part number by chance? Naa, I can just look it up on the good ol' interweb. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Ok, so here's the weird thing, after the light came on and I posted this, the light went out all by its lonesome. That's the first time that light has ever come on and hopefully the last::crossing fingers:: Not holding my breath though. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

On my way to work this morning the CEL light came on on me pathy. I waited til lunch and checked the codes and it tossed out a code 34, knock sensor code. Is this an issue that I can get away with not not dealing with it right now? Generally, I think it can wait, aside from the pesky CEL light that is on, I have yet to notice a change in driveability. Any thoughts? Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Just found this online: http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/88-9495pthqust/ The CEL came on on my way to work this morning. Used this thread to diagnose the issue, but, this site to define the code. The code that is being "tossed" is a 34, happens to be a knock sensor, not gonna worry about it til it becomes an issue. The question is, will it? I'm unsure, but, guess I'll find out. Any other clues? Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

That looks like a good deal on the links. I paid more than that for mine, but, their from whiteline racing. I found them on amazon. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

There are 2 per arm, I replaced the 4 lower link bushings and the issue was gone. There are a total of 8, 4 upper and 4 lower, plus the 2 in the panhard bar, so 10 in all, but usually the lower links are gone before the others 'cause they get abused more. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Pan arm isn't the issue, check the lower links on the rear end. They're called trailing arms and are forward of the coil springs. Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yup! That works beautifully! Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Redneck, GEARHEAD, fabricator, are just a few of my "specialties".... Bubba says it all!!

Excellent thread!! I'm subscribed! Possibly addicted?! I was thinking of doing a GM 5.3 swap later, but, keep us posted, this might change that. [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks awesome!! Hope to do that to my 95 someday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, I had that on my 95 when I purchased it 10+ years ago. Corrected it soon thereafter. My diesel truck does it, but, that's something on it that can't be corrected and I've come to terms with that. [emoji481] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had an issue getting my crank gear off at on point, it was seized to the crank. I wound up drilling a 1/4 inch hole just above the keyway slot and with a little persuasion with a hammer and chisel got it off without damaging the crank. Not really recommended, but, had no choice at the time. Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, it works better than PB Blaster or WD-40 as a penetrating oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk