Manik

Most likely, check the fuse links at the positive battery cable. That was the problem with mine and I hunted for it for quite some time. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Looks like is going to be like a ford 9 inch. The bearing presses on the axle shaft and the entire assembly is held in by the 4 bolt retainer plate. Remove the 4 bolts, I'd use a chisel to get between the mating surfaces to loosen it first. Then a couple of love taps with a ball peen and it should be free. That's the way I used to do it anyway on the old ford 9's. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Absolutely, I think you should be able to use any hose, just as long as there aren't any kinks in it, you should be golden.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I would definitely do an inspection in the fuel tank, my wd21 has set up twice for several years with varying issues. The first time wasn't a problem, started it up and added new fuel to the tank. The second, the fuel pump sounded very rough, it had set up for roughly 4-5 yrs. I pulled the pump and the tank was full of rust due to the ethanol in the fuel attracting moisture. However I did pull the tank to clean it, but, pulling the pump doesn't take that long and is well worth it imho.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Check the fusible links at the battery. I had the exact same thing happen.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Any check engine lights? The cat is a possibility, but, if its faulty it should set a code. The shaking at idle could be EGR, throttle body may be dirty, idle air control valve, or just the need for a tune up. The OBD2 system does a decent job of monitiring all of the intricacies of enngine performance and management. I would start with the basic stuff like a tune up, check the mass air flow sensor and your vacuum lines, it could be hunting for idle. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I have a 2007 Chevy 3/4 ton with a 6.6 Duramax and it's been a great truck, the mileage hauling/towing is better than that of its gas counterpart. That truck has been driven from Texas to Colorado many times while my eldest was in college in CO. When driven conservatively I have gotten 18 mpg towing a trailer. I will agree with you about all of the current diesels with all of the dpf system and extra smog crap, its not worth it, I wouldn't have a new one. My 6.6 is one of the last years before they started putting all of that smog crap on them and completely ruining the practicality of a diesel truck. I have a friend that had my truck newer gas counterpart, 2015 GMC 6.0 gas 3/4 ton truck, it towed just fine, but, only got 12 mpg, the absolute best mileage ive gotten towing is 19.8 towing a 6000 lb vehicle on a U-haul trailer from Texas to Alabama on the flat stretches with a tailwind, 70 mph seems to be the DMaxes sweet spot for towing mileage. Government mandates on emmisions have killed the draw, at least for me, to newer diesel trucks. As for the 5.0 Cummins the engine itself would be a beast without all of the smog crap on it and in a lighter truck/vehicle. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I know the 4bt is heavy, 300 lbs heavier than the vg30, I think it would be we'll worth the time or at least investigating the possibility. What would be awesome if it could be bolted directly to the manual 5 speed. I am sure there would definitely be an SAS in this deal too.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

What about a Cummins 4BT swap?? Lack of electronics, big power capability, the downside is the weight of the 4bt... Hmmmm... Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

It has been done, many times I am sure. There are many options available, personally, id yank the engine, have the bottom end rebuilt and do a VG33 head swap, better performance with the same wiring and injection system, no mods necessary other than the head upgrade. There are affordable rebuild kits out there and with a bit of machine on the bottom end along with the cylinder head upgrade, you'll be golden. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I had a thought a little while ago. When I was getting this rig back on the road, or trying to, I was having issues getting it to start ans run. It wound up that the 3 inch length of hose that connected the fuel pump to the line has rotted ans split. The only hose that I had available at the time wasnt much better, but, it worked and has for 2 years. I'm thinking that it may be causing this problem. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

The truck turns over just fine, normally even, but, it takes 3 sometimes 4 cranking cycles before it will start. After she starts, she runs just fine, but, doesn't seem to have the throttle response it had a few months ago before this problem started. I am not really sure where to start, there aren't any codes or anything else unusual going on. Anybody have any ideas of where to start? I have been thinking maybe the distributor? Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I rebuilt/rebooted mine several years ago. After being driven through sand, dirt and some seriously deep mud, then being completely broken down, cleaned and boots replaced, they are remarkably quiet. Rebuilding them isnt that hard, the boots are fairly cheap and if you have good or even fair mechanical skills, just rebuild em and be done, you will be glad you did. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

That looks like the typical routing of a clutch hard line. I'd trace the line from origin to destination just to figure out what it is. From the pics its kindof hard to tell for sure, but, you're asking the right crowd for a definitive answer. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Id recommend changing the water pump while your there. Especially if its never been changed. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

If the timing belt breaks, depending on the conditions at the time it breaks, RPM, engine load and other factors, at the very least you may get a bent valve. There are other possibilities such as piston damage, camshaft damage and other components. Timing belts are designed stronger to your average fan belt and last alot longer. I ran one truck I had 160k miles before changing the T-Belt and when I removed the original belt, you could still read the OEM part number on it. I would just inspect it and check for wear. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Id clean the throttle body, pull the idle air control valve and clean that port as well. Mine used to do that, but, I did what I mentioned before as well as replacing a few rotten vacuum lines, now shes all good.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Camshaft plates on the back of the cylinder head. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

N..ko sweat, to be honest, I did/do have a timing light, just didnt check the timing because it passed without issue last year and absolutely no changes have been made to it since. Either or, it passed, from here on out, its safety only [emoji106] Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

What's that old saying.. "Timing is everything"... The timing was advanced about 20 degrees too much, reset, reinspect for the LAST time and we are golden! Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

What is your current skill set? Do you have fabrication experience and automotive electrical experience? Swapping any drivetrain other than the nissan oe components takes the skill of somewhere between a weekend warriors and a mad scientist. Nah, not really, best thing to do is research. Research on nissans, toyota and any other cross platform swap. I've been researching for literally years and devising a plan of attack for when I finally get an opportunity to start major surgery. The first thing you will absolutely have to do is a solid axle swap or SAS for the front running gear to free up space. NPORA is hands down the best place to try and figure out all you will need to get the job done. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Check your EGR valve, ive seen them hang open just slightly and cause this issue. Maybe a vacuum leak at the intake manifold, doubt that, but it is possible. Check your spark plugs, ive seen them have carbon tracing that would show similar symptoms. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

My 95 has 6 marks and unfortunately my laptop was at work, it had tge FSM on it. I found kind of a definition on YouTube, but, it was all I had, so, I went with it. The timing was set on the very last mark on the right on the pulley, so, I knew it was way off. I set it at about 10*, going to give itnone last shot at emmisions later today. [emoji106] Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Good news and bad news.. It finally passed on the high speed ASM test, it still failed the low speed, but, got a helluva lot closer to passing. I replaced the EGR valve and ran testing on ethanol free fuel. NOx dropped be 1000 points and HC has been just above the FAIL line at this point. The guy at the station suggested retarding the timing about 2-3 degrees. I checked the timing and it settled on the first mark on the pulley. I changed it to probably 20* I'm guessing. Runs great, but, would still like the definition of the marks. You know, 0,5,10,15 degrees and so on. Thanks again y'all. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Yea, where I have to get it inspected is a 35 minute drive from my house. Both times I went to get it inspected, it sat for 2-3 hrs until the guy showed up, so, this weekend it wont get shut off until the inspection gets done! Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk