Manik

Personally I like the xterras and 4runners. Had a 4runner and it was a great vehicle. It went through myself, my wife, both kids and only twice every had a breakdown. I honestly cant say that for the pathfinder. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Check your exhaust manifolds for leaks, cracks, loose nuts, missing bolts or broken studs. I had a similar issue with the right side manifold and a very similar symptoms your describing. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Ya ain't from 'round here, LOL! Cornbread is a staple south of the mason Dixon line so the way to Louisiana and through Texas! Rednecks gotta have our beans and cornbread. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Read the end of the initial post. RHEC!! RAISE HELL AND EAT CORNBREAD!! Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I actually measure the back window for a decal for my business and it as I recall isn't 4 foot wide. I would go with the smaller 25 inch decal. FYI, RHEC! Damn straight ! Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

It is. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

There are a couple of companies oit there that have support the "odd-balls" out there like us. Calmini is one place to start. They have body and suspension kits that are pretty good. Usually you can do a 31" tire on pathfinders without any changes. As far as bumpers go, I built my own due to no aftermarket availability. The internet is your friend, I'd just start searching and seeing what's available for you. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Get the problem corrected? I had a similar issue with my ‘95 and it wound up being one of the two fuse links that connect to the positive post of the battery. One connects to the alternator the other I’m sure provides power to the fuse block and ecu. While driving it would die or run rough, then miraculously start up and run just fine. One of the two fuse links in the circuit had broken, but, we’re still touching just enough to provide power to the vehicles cranking/starting systems, but, that’s all. Found the break, fixed it, albeit temporarily, it’s worked fine ever since. That’s been a couple of months. I plan on replacing both fusible links in that circuit and changing it over to a simpler maxi-fuse setup, eventually. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you purchase a harness? I may have one lying around. At one point in time I’ve had two complete VG30e’s in my shop. Message me if you haven’t found one yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, the fuse was completely removed from the amp circuit in the passenger cabin fuse block, so, not really sure if there was power still coming in. Guess I pulled the trigger a little to quick. I may just bypass all of the factory wiring to wire the speakers in the doors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All from chopping out an amp! Gotta love these rigs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did a little more searching on the issue and found the neither of the headlights are working and only half of the parking lamps. Rechecked every fuse, found one blown, low and behold, the stereo and dome lamps are working, but, not the headlights/park lamps. That’s an entirely other issue for another day as far as I’m concerned right now. Besides, gotta keep the little woman happy too, right??!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I am attempting to bypass the factory clarion amplifier completely on my old 1995 pathfinder. One of the amplifier connector for the rear amp my kid chopped off years ago. Anyways, after installing a new stereo and using it for a couple of weeks with 6x9’s in boxes which never stay where you put them, I bit the bullet and just chopped off the other connector. Finally deciding to mount the speakers and bypass the amps completely by just tying the appropriate input and output wires together. Sounds easy right? WRONG! Started this whole process, had the rear inputs and outputs all tied together, I thought awesome, this was easy, attempted to power up the stereo to test the rear speakers and the head unit will not power on at all. It has both power circuits as well as ground. I thought, did I fry the unit somehow, replaced it with the factory stereo, same thing, no power, and I know it worked when I pulled it out. Any ideas out there? Oh! The clock under the tachometer isn’t working either, it quit at the same time, what am I missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Id check with some local auto parts stores and see if it’s possible to rent a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder. I had issues with getting the clutch and brakes on these things with mushy pedals. I had a small hand vacuum pump, so, I made a hand vacuum bleeder. It worked awesome. Sounds like you’ve just got some trapped air in the system and either the vacuum or pressure bleeding process will eliminate that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe check the EGR vacuum switch and there is a small almost oval shaped plate as I recall just behind the EGR that may need to be cleaned out. It has a tube attached to it that extends into the upper intake plenum and may not allow the EGR to function properly. It will run just fine, have no drivability issues, but, won’t pass an emissions test at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got a set of pacesetter’s on my 95, fit was actually very good. I plugged one the useless hole with a steel pipe plug and welded that in. I relocated the O2 sensor close the EGR tube to facilitate it heating up on cold starts and drive ability issues. The EGR tube doesn’t really have a good fit in the bung on the header, but, it seals up ok. As for the y-pipe, I used the factory on, cut it apart, added slip fit connectors at the collectors with the with wide strap/band type exhaust clamps and a slip fit between the y that connects the left to the right down pipe and just used standard exhaust clamps there. It takes a little bit of finagling to get it all together, but, once done, it sealed up just fine. I did add an oil filter relocation kit and moved the filter to the drivers side wheel well. Not the optimal place for it, but, at least it’s easy to get to. I will eventually add a removable guard to protect the filter from punctures. Also note: if you decide against the relocation kit, lord help ya, because your gonna need it. Only $30 on eBay will save you a ton of cussing and lost tools due to them flying when you start cussing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think its gonna be a GM 5.3 swap, not really sure yet and haven't put a solid plan together. There is so much support for the GM platforms its almost a no brainer, ALMOST.

Yes, the ones that caught fire were some of the Oldsmobile’s that had issues with the fuel injection system as I recall. And a 300I6 would be a cool foot longer than the VG, it could be done, but, I’d have to shy away from all that body work. That was my thought on the super charged version. I’ve seen the super chargers on eBay for a song and the 3.8’s are so common they’re extremely cheap. I’m thinking maybe a compound setup, turbo charger feeding a super charger. Supercharger for the low end grunt and turbo for the mid to high range power. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do agree, but, the 3.8’s in the 80’s-90’s were riddled with emissions equipment that killed power. Clean that crap up, boost it and go. 300 HP is achievable without any issue and the aftermarket has great support for them. More to chew on I guess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got a set of pacesetters on my 95 and they fit perfectly. The only thing that I had to do was weld in a bung for the EGR valve. Now the collector is not flanged, so, you’ll have to get them welded up or do what I did, I used wide band clamps and they work fine. But, I have been thinking of taking it to a local shop and having either a flange welded to the collectors or, just have them welded up. Haven’t made that decision yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just tossing it out there. I know there are the guys that have done the other swaps like the 4.3L swaps and I've seen guys do a, dare I say it, ford 302 v8 swap, which is understandable with all of the performance parts for it available and the front located distributor the fomoco 302 would seem like a great choice. I was thinking that the GM 3.8 has a ton of performance parts available, along with the absence of a distributor as well as being a similar size and weight of the VG30e, it would seem to be a viable candidate for this swap, Any thoughts on this? I would likely use a gm700r4 trans and do a solid axle swap at that point. I think its high time my pathfinder went under the knife....

I was actually thinking of installing a 100a circuit breaker to replace the fuse link wiring. I did purchase an 80+amp maxi-fuse and holder that also I think would be a good candidate. Just the fact that the fusible links are getting hot tells me there’s an issue there. Any thoughts there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, great news, finally passed inspection. This one has an EGT sensor in the EGR port. I’d only ever seen EGT sensors in diesels. As soon as I installed the sensor it cleaned right up on the emissions. As for the CAT, it’s new, I had it replaced 4 years ago and not long after “My Junk” broke down and has sat until the past couple of weeks. I’m just happy to have it back on the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope never worked on old V-dubs. The cat I actually had replaced already, about 4 years ago and it hasn’t run until the past couple of weeks. I actually got a check engine light come on the first time I took it for inspection. Finally was able to get the code out of the ECU and discovered this thing has an exhaust gas temp sensor which is just below the EGR valve. Installed it, as the JDM engine didn’t have one. No more CEL. Time to try the inspection process again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

or at least on mine. lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk