Manik

Believe me I understand your frustration and your wife's as well. I went through that with mine when I was installing the second engine due to one of my kids severely overheating it. Still have the original, the second and number three is in it running like a champ. Just have to persevere and get it right. My wife threatened to have mine hauled off several times, but, it's running, driving and again a functional part of the family. If your having issues with the "washboard road effect" I'd also check to make sure that your tires aren't abnormally worn and in balance. There hasn't been any mention of it, but, that really could be a contributing factor. Shocks as well, if they're shot and wheels/tires are out of balance or abnormally worn, you'll have that issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Years of having truck as "man toys" has taught me one thing, their gonna nickel and dime you, but, what toys don't. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ground on clean bare steel, is what I meant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just disconnect the negative battery cable, turn your lights and ignition switch to the run position for a minute. That will take care of any residual charge that might remain in the electrical system. Turn it all back to the off position then your free to weld. Just be sure that your ground clamp is close to the area your welding and clean, bare steel. You won't have any issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like I'd mentioned, you should be able to lower the latch a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's on the list to get "built". I'll keep it I mind though... Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The wobble on mine was coming from the rear. It was obvious because at cruise if I went down a gear and throttled it heavy, I could watch the backside shift to the right. Oh yea! Then offending components were the rear trailing arm bushings. Replace all four with poly bushing and this resolved that issue. ::Git"R"Done:: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, grease or wd won't last long at all on that bracket. Not enough surface area on the latch or the bracket for anything to stick for any length of time. What I would do and as I recall, I had a similar issue on my '95. I adjusted the hood latch assembly down to where the hood is just under to fenders then adjust your stops on either side of the hood. That should stop the shake and hopefully the squeak as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Castrol Syntec blend is my oil of choice 10w40, Dello for my diesel... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow! This went nowhere...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been looking for a BL for my 95 WD21 for quite a while now and just can't seem to locate one. All of the ones I've found seem to have a cutoff at about 93. I know body style is the same, but, are there any mounting differences? It's been bugging me and just thought I'd ask. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea and $85 at autozone was a decent price. Rockauto was considerably more expensive when you count parts shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a quick update, I replaced the starter, it was history. Thanks for all of the information and assistance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pathy's have got some "grunt" for sure in 4-L!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, my thought process has been solenoid issue, but, just like the old Chevy engines, just replace the starter and be done. I'm troubleshooting this myself so I'd like to know where the relay is so I can "crank it" without having to turn the key. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking through the manual now to try and determine which of the relays on the fender well is a / the starter relay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. In the process of troubleshooting I've come up with this theory, I currently have NO voltage drop at the battery upon attempt to start, given that, I'm thinking open circuit, possibly a fuseable link? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The clutch interlock switch is working. The issue sounds like the starter solenoid. Not sure yet as I haven't had time to dig into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Straight off into left field......... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I have a multimeter. I want to say this entire problem is a relay, which is probably wishful thinking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yea, cleaned all the connections at the battery and tried to jump it with my 07 duramax and still the same issue. Once in a while you'll hear a very slight "click" but even that's pretty much gone. Tapping on the starter didn't help either. My wife's pretty much getting put out with my affinity for this truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which is the starter relay? They're not clearly labeled.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, having an issue with the beast, my '95 pathy. It's been sitting up for a couple of weeks until the tires I ordered came in. Long story short, while it was sitting up it developed a slow and now a no start issue. It had been driven 2-3 times in the past couple of weeks and it seemed to get progressively worse. Now as I've mentioned before it's a no start, won't even roll over and the starters not clicking at all. This literally happened tonight, so, I've yet to take a look at it and that probably won't happen until Saturday. Just wondering if this has happened to anyone before and what, where I should be looking first. I will probably check the starter wiring first. Any other ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, the purpose for an EGR valve is strictly for emmisions, it scavenges from the exhaust and routes the spent gasses back into the combustion chamber to lower emmisions at high speed. Usually above 30 mph, if you wanna call that high speed. The EGR control valve is opened up by the ECU at speed with just the purpose of lowering the amount of fuel being burned and lowering emmisions in the process. It should have little to no affect on mileage, but, could gain power on the top end because the engine is actually burning a cumbustion chamber full of fuel and not fuel and spent gasses. The EGR has absolutely zero to do with starting of the vehicle due to its function as a piece of emmisions equipment. The piping under the upper plenum that the coolant runs through serves to warm the air coming into the throttle body on cold starts, which helps with drive ability and low speed emmisions. I've also thought about doing an EGR delete on my 95, but, to deal with the CEL, I'd leave the EGR control solenoid connect so the ECU thinks it has a working EGR. The older OBD1systems do not have a way for the ECU to check EGR function, that came later with the OBD2 systems and fully electronic EGR valves. Hope this clears some things up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds good. Yes, the TB that I am referring to is the earlier model ka24e. I have two spare upper intake plenums for the VG30e and would like to either experiment with them, to try and get a few more ponies out of my pathy. Hell, it's either that or sell or junk it all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk