stioc

Exhaust manifolds aren't that expensive and you can potentially source a used one too- I wouldn't worry about the rest of the exhaust for now if it's not broken. BTW, Techron is one thing the cleaning kit is another - it includes a spray for cleaning the throttle body as well as you to decarbonize the intake valves etc. I went from 16MPG to 19.2MPG (highway) with a new air filter and the 3M kit treatment- didn't touch anything else.

Based on what you've done so far(i.e. new plugs, wires, O2 sensors are good) my suggestion would be: 1. Check that exhaust manifold leak because if the O2 sensors read lean mixture (due to the leak) the computer will dump more fuel 2. Check your air-filter, replace it, they're cheap 3. Get yourself the 3M complete fuel system cleaning "kit" that comes in a box with three bottles. Run the fuel tank bottle with half tank of gas.

I recently performed a "chemical tuneup" using the 3M complete fuel system cleaning kit which comes with three cleaners. A few days later my IVC code popped up while driving, I reset it right away using my onboard Scanguage II but it came on again after about 30mins. It idles just fine, maybe a bit higher than normal but very smooth. I'm thinking I probably need to do the IVC 'relearn' thing that I've heard about on most Nissans where you disconnect and reconnect the TPS harness within 5 secs while the engine's idling? On a positive note I got 19.2MPG on a recent highway trip- this was a jump from 16mpg on highway before the chemical tune up.

Good idea using the tow hooks as the lower attachment points. How does the stock bumper attach to the frame? Does anyone have pics of the backside of the stock bumper?

mudfilledvaynes, that's a really nice looking bumper. Having some experience working with metal I'm impressed with the angles in the bumper. Proportionally too it looks better than the $$$$ big name bumpers. If you happen to have any details on the mounts/brackets I'd love to see it. That to me is the more complex part because with that one could potentially just attach any C-channel cut to size and slightly bent in the corners similar to the olden days Jeeps/trucks.

fixinto, are you saying you're close enough and willing to have RLC take a look at your Pathy to see how the stock bumper is mounted?

You can get a 2" spring lift and a 1" strut mount spacer to give you 3" but you may also want to read a bit on the cv angles and what not. I'm not saying that they're good or bad just that you should be aware of any potential issues.

The guy I know who put his ARB R50 bumper on his then new Xterra was drkgband, he's on xterranation.com

What exactly is a top-out? By design every strut tops-out when the suspension flexes enough, if I lift my truck by the frame I get a couple of inches of droop before the strut tops out. If it is what I think it is i.e. the strut is extended to it's max under normal driving then I haven't had that issue with my OME springs (because I would think they're not as stiff as the AC- which is apparent from the lower height the OME springs provide vs the AC). I've read that with the AC springs you get a clunk/knock from the struts indicating that it's topping-out? As for the spacers- a mid mount spacer would not be my choice because of this reason, there's just not enough suspension travel for it on the Pathy's strut design.

I talked to RLC www.rlcweldfab.com about making a winch bumper for the Pathfinder. Here's what they said: "I'd like to see the mounting locations on the vehicle, but most of my winch bumpers are in the $450-575 range. If you can find a local guy (Louisville, KY) that will be fine. An xterra club sent a guy a few years ago and that worked out well. Thanks, James" Any interest? I think the price is quite reasonable for a custom winch bumper especially if it comes in around $500!

I agree- I meant the NX4 spacers not the wheel spacers. Isn't that what your mechanic wanted you to remove?

I don't know for sure if it would really affect things but rocky 2 mentioned about the orientation of the top strut hat vs. the lower spring perch. I certainly didn't pay attention to mine when I installed my OME lift. Maybe I got lucky but I could swear the setup was keyed/slotted so you couldn't get the orientation wrong?? I've been thinking about getting 1" spacers for both the front and the back to give my "small" OME lift a little boost.

Does anyone with a 2001+ Pathfinder happen to have pics and/or dimensions of the grill guard brackets? I found a brush guard from a 1999 Pathy but due to the difference in the bumpers the brackets are too short. I'm trying to get an idea of what the newer brackets look like- preferrably ones that retain the factory tow points?

I must've missed it but what're the new bolts and nuts for? What's the R/L camber exactly? Believe it or not as opposed to the toe setting .5 to 1deg camber difference in relation to the other side is not earth shattering but 1/16" toe is. Also I would leave the spacers in because when you remove and reinstall them you'll most likely change the angles and you'll need another alignment. The springs settling will do this too but minimally.

That's a bummer about the alignment but I would agree with Rocky2 that unless something is bent the camber bolts should allow enough adjustment to get close to the factory specs.

Nice! If I went with the 33's they'd be 255/85/16, I regret not getting 235/85/16. I like 'em tall and skinny

Thank you! I didn't know you were on ExPo too About the awning, it's the ARB3111 which is 6.5ft in length and fits the truck perfectly from the A pillar to the hatch. I have it mounted on the very sophisticated 'L' brackets from Home Depot but they work. I'll take some pics of the brackets and post them in my build thread. Oh I paid $230ish shipped from AutoAnything.com (they had free shipping when I ordered). BTW, you should totally post your Pathfinder thread on ExPo because it really is one of the nicest R50s I've seen. You've done a great job with with well thought out and quality mods.

Great feedback, thank you! Your Pathy is my Pathy's hero There's a member who's selling a JDM light set in the For Sale section. Just make sure the fitment is correct for your year.

Bad bushings in the rear control arms would definitely make a thud but almost always when getting on or off the gas...initially only when you do it abruptly but as they deteriorate more even in normal driving.

x2 - very functional and tastefully modded R50 with all the right stuff! What mod would you say you like doing but wasn't necessary and probably wouldn't do again? I so want a rear ARB locker and/or a winch this year.

Wow, nice! you work fast That sounds like a fun experiment- did you take some pics?

Funny, I sent an email to RLC fab to see if they could make a custom bumper that looks like the TJM bumper. They sell their xterra bumpers for $550 which is very reasonable and about the extent I would go. Truth be told I'd much rather spend the money on an ARB locker than a bumper.

From the very begining you posted this I suspected the sway bar end links but I didn't say anything because I thought others here have more experience with the Pathys but generally speaking when you say a clunk happens when going over bumps it points to a loose/bad sway bar link. Of course, not always but generally that's all it is. They're cheap to replace ($25 at Autozone) but you can also disconnect both end links (don't disconnect just one or you'll wreck your CV boots) and see if you still have the problem. The only issue with this method is that the end link bolts are usually a one time use item, they get pretty messed up when you loosen them so you may have to replace the links anyway. Although sometimes you get lucky and the end link nut come off easily.

No suspension wear, just tires if you're lucky other wise your axle/CVs and ring and pinion. Depending on what type of a locker we're talking about and whether it's the front or the rear they may have the same effect as a welded diff but only momentarily. You don't drive around with a locked arb locker even when offroad, you lock it, get over the obstacle and disengage it. Also there's more give in the offroad situations so the chances of fubar'ing your drivetrain are less but it still happens all the time especially on those built rock crawlers - usually because they're running full spools with massive tires. In our case, the rear axle on the Pathy is pretty solid and can handle the strain from an ARB type locker (part-time spool) in low-traction offroad situations. The front diff is pretty decent too but not sure about the axles/cvs. Heck, I've seen people break axles from not having a locker too- the tire in the air spins up to a good RPM and as it comes down on the solid ground it immediately gets the grip and snap goes your CVs- something's got to give. On a drift car you have a welded diff on the rear- allowing you to power out of the slides but hopefully on cheap bald tires and a greasy skid pad so there's some give. In normal driving though on high traction surfaces you must hear the tires squeal especially when turning? And in rain and icy conditions that's gotta be a white-knucke-fun ride! Though since you already have experience with a (at least with the rear axle) welded diff you understand the risks and if you want to try it out on the Pathy with a spare diff go for it!

Not sure about thexbrit but DDM Tuning has been selling inexpensive but good HID kits forever. Personally I went with a bulb upgrade and it made a significant difference. I have before and after pics in my build thread on Expedition Portal on page 7.