gv280z

Yea, I had this as well when I tried a set of KYB GR8 / Excel G twin tube gas shocks on the rear, they did ride a little jittery, I ended up changing the rears to Monroe Sensa Tracs and those seem to be fine so far.

Tires options General Grabber AT2 , Cooper Disco AT3, / ATP, BFG AT KO 2, Nitto Terra Grappler, Toyo Open Country 2, Hankook Dynapro ATM All great tires, nice road manners and will pull you through the dirty parts when necessary. I personally own the Cooper Disco AT3 and very happy with them. I think they all rate fairly adequate in the snow, I know I watched a good review video of both the General Grabber AT2 and Disco AT3 in the snow on Youtube. I'm in TX so no snow driving for me. Speaker wise I've got a Sony Xplod head unit pushing 4 Rockford Fosgate Prime 5 x 7 speakers which sound great, my son and I drive around jammin with the stereo cranked up all the time. Got them for around $70 a pair from Cartoys.

Hey guys a LOT of us have had this here and has been covered extensively: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35159-engine-stalls-while-driving-help/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38158-help-1994-pathfinder-stalling-issue/ My guess is Idle Air Control Valve and as I've told countless others, the trick that did it for me was the Gunk 2 stage fuel system treatment with 20 minute IV vacuum line drip at a local Kwik Kar oil and lube service. Has never come back to haunt me. You guys could have a loose MAF ground wire or check to see if you've got any codes thrown from the engine.

Too bad you're not working on the other head too. As long as your in there and doing port and polish work, oh yeah..what's up with the other side? No port and polish? Anyways, I was gonna say as long as your doing all that, why not take your valves to the proper mechanic / technician / machinist, I'm really sure who it would be but to do a 3 angle valve job, that combined with your newly ported and polished and rebuilt heads (knurl the valve guides?) would get you a pretty good boost in hp. Holy crap, I've hit the Motherload! Check it out! http://www.redz31.net/pages/headwork.html

Wow man, you got a really good deal..I'm friggin jealous. I paid out the door like roughly $850 at Discount tire here in Houston. I mean, I think I walked outta there a little bowlegged....As far as I'm concerned the Cooper AT/3 will go head to head against any other high dollar premium all terrain tire. Good job man.

[squeak] sits down Lol, uh ok thanks teach! Good info :-D

OKAY that is what I was shooting for when I said DETT, I meant 300zx motor, I thought all the twin cam vg motors were a "DE" aren't the cams the same for the n/a as for the twin turbo?

Oh well, I figured they were close enough in the channels they ride in, figured the lift and duration just a little more extreme. Isn't there another cam option open to us though?

You know, unless you want to do the swap just for the hell of it, that's one thing, okay new more powerful motor, that's great....but if you're getting into this because of your current motor needing to be rebuilt, before you go all in on the VG33 you need to atleast verify the status of your existing motor, at this point for all anyone knows, you could possibly get away scott free with just a set of cams, until you get your engine diagnosed, you are totally in the dark. Infact if it's just a set of cams, I think there is a little hotter cam you can use out of a VG30DETT probably, that would really wake up a vg30 and that's a direct drop in and go application!

Hell why not, you realize I'm speaking purely from a hypothetical stand point and will probably never do a swap in my life, I don't have the knowledge or resources to do so, but yes, given everything that I've read on here about doing the VG33 swap I think it would make perfect sense.

Manual transmission? It does great in first but shifting to second, when I'm guessing you've just about reached redline in first gear, right? So when you shift into 2nd gear the engine is bogging down, so it's not like the clutch is slipping and the revs are flying away, right? I think you might just want to go back to your basics: change your oil and filter, air cleaner, fuel filter, plugs, have your gear oil and diff oil checked, run a fuel system cleaner through there...is your truck carbureted? If so, your air fuel mixture may be off, your truck has enough power in first to climb the hill but not in second, going up in a higher elevation the air is thinner so you'd need to richen up the O2 in the carb. If you've got an automatic and fuel injected, it may be the throttle position sensor is out of whack, you'll need to experiment with it to find the right setting. Loosen the screw SLIGHTLY and make tiny adjustments little by little and drive it everytime after each small adjustment until it seems like it's getting better. I'm really just grasping at straws here, I don't really know if that would help or not....If you can get any result at all, at least thats a start, a lead to build on. It could be a blocked exhaust that only shows you a problem under an extreme load on the engine, who knows.

I think a compression check should highlight any bent valves you may have. If I were in your shoes and you find you've got several bent valves, I'd immediately start looking for a low mileage JDM engine, do not pass go, do not open the motor, I think it'd be much better off in the long run to just toss another one in there. So you've either got (don't frag me, I taking a stab in the dark here...) $500 - $700 for JDM engine, and labor to swap the motor, which for a mechanic I bet they'd prefer, unbolt and toss the one, put in the new and they're done..Lets say an even $1,000 OR you spend on parts to replace the cams (both sides) machine and rebuild both heads, replace head gaskets, basically it's a top motor rebuild, that's a lot of work. And while they're in there, it's also going to be timing belt, front seal, and water pump. Time, parts and labor on that will be equal to, if not greater than an engine swap. Just replacing the timing belt and front seal on my engine cost me $500 and there were no damaged parts to deal with.

No kidding, though it could just be the way his truck sits in his garage, it may be uneven or something, irregular elevation in the foundation. The inside edge of the tire should be severely worn at a higher rate than the outer edge but it doesn't look like it. You'll like those Coopers, I've taken mine through everything and they seem to hook up everywhere, beach sand, loose soft mud, wet roads, gravel...they do a pretty damn good job of living up to their All Terrain claim, and do much better off road than they've really got any right to. They're siped really well and are made of a long wearing composition rubber. They ride good on the road, handle well and have only started to sing a little bit now that i've got maybe 12,000 +/- miles on them, and they still look brand new. It sounds like you got a great deal at $130 ea, I think I paid like $160 or so at Discount tire for mine, don't forget you're probably gonna have about 60 or 70 in shipping costs so that'll negate your rebates and stuff, and then you've gotta find a shop that won't charge you and arm and a leg to mount and balance. If I were you I'd drive to to your local hood / barrio and pull off the road at a small tire shop, pay 'em 20 bucks. From what I can see, for me, that's the biggest drawback hurdle to overcome when ordering tires offline at a great price is the mount / balance / road hazard warranty, I don't know if any big name shops will honor an internet seller deal for when you need local help, I don't know how that works.

Are you kidding? I love the way my Pathfinder runs and scoots around fairly quickly but given the option, I'd have no trouble swapping out the complicated, heavy, shoehorned in, VG30 for the dead simple and straight forward Z24 engine that he's got there. Whatever he doesn't have in power is made up for in simplicity and ease of use, lightweight and probably a little better fuel mileage, I'd guess in the low 20s around town. That thing will probably literally run forever.

I'm jealous how clean and straight forward that engine bay / layout is, it looks like he could just about rebuild the engine right there sitting in the truck! Look how easy it would be to pull the exhaust manifold, but at the same time IT'S NEW!!! Hah! Thats the best part, it's not an old corroated nuts and bolts and miscellaneous parts you'd be working on from the early / mid 80s. How big would the power and efficiency deficit really be having a carbureted engine instead of computer controlled and mapped fuel injection with the repair headache that brings?

Wow! That is a fine lookin Pathfinder! Looks great Roy, how long did this entire project take you? Does this model have coil springs in the front? Or does it still use torsion bars? It was hard to tell in one of your pics, there's a shock in the pic right next to a coil spring with what looks like one of Fleurys HDPE coil spacers, was that on the rear? The lift looks fantastic. You guys over seas have such a completely different engine and driving dynamic than us with your Z24 engine and carb setup in a 2000 SE year model! Haha! I love that. I like your wheel and tire combo too, looks great. How do those Bighorns ride on the road, are they rough and very loud? Outstanding truck Roy, I know you're a proud Papa just now.

This is a great idea! Really nice work Guy! I like it

I'm on the worn CV axles train. You only hear it when the hubs are engaged because that's when the cv axles are turning, and clicking. I've got a bad one I need to replace too, you can even hear it on of my videos.

Changed my alternator, holy crap what a PITA! First time I've done this repair on the Pathfinder and I learned a lot how to do it a little more easily next time.

Did an 88 still have a carb on it? I guess because it's not a US model it could huh...I don't have any experience with this but I like what Kingman had to say about that high idle circuit..that's good stuff.

I like the wider, deeper set rims on the later model R50s, which I don't really see a lot of very often...hmmm...see if I can find a pic... I think this is what I'm thinking of: This is actually a 2002 model, but I just love the overall *look* of it.

okay...well, this is looking up..riding the slow conveyor belt of Vehicle Action just got a little faster. At the end of this one, there's truck work waiting..instead of a log saw

both of my converters look exactly the same, one not smaller than the other. Even though it's obd1 won't it still put a check engine light on, which will fail your inspection..right?

I'm so far really happy with my rinky dink little auto parts store muffler and my truck has really good power,I can't tell you if it's been improved but I do enjoy putting my foot I it and it does get up pretty good. I know my truck began life in Washington state and then some how made it to TX and I don't think either cat uses an O2 sensor. I need to get to the bottom of this, guess I need to send some pics.

Question, do all of you guys still have two catalytic converters on your trucks? I'm still have a hard time with this two cat thing...grrrrr...I wanted to cut one of and replace with flex pipe or something and everone was "Oh GOD NO!!!! You can't do that!!! It's going to throw codes at you and it's ILLEGAL!" damn man....I swear people freak the frosted pudding out when you say your going to change the OEM setup.