gv280z

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Here ya go! This looks pretty handy Unlimited locate requests and only $99. I likey! http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=13089009&locale=en_US Although I *DID* just find the $20 monthly subscribe section, I guess that's the "unlimited location requests" part of the deal huh...

I'm not sure, it could be just that the little catch tab that presses up and down to latch, un-latch might be sticking, or it may be the way the glove box went back together, something may be binding somewhere as your closing it. I seem to remember there is kind of a weak little frame that the glove box kinda rests in and the two come apart when you take all the screws out...dunno.

Man that's just awesome...if I were able to rebuild my auto it would just go to my head. My family would never hear the end of it: " *! I know how to rebuild a transMISSION! Yes! My kung-fu is STRONG!!!" I'd quit my day job and open my own tranny shop and rake in the dough. Hell I know how to build computers but no one gives a crap about that now. Hey Flyformoney you fly outta Ellington? I live near there, few miles away in Webster. See you guys go over all the time in the little trainer jets. Used to be in the Gaurd unit over there.

I might be able to help you. I've had to fix mine twice but I had a different type of break than what your describing. I think I understand your problem, although I'm not sure which piece you mean when you say the latch is brown. I can't remember the details of the locking mechanism if you can supplant one with the other..should be able to. Need pics, of new stuff and the old broken pieces. I might be able to dig into mine tomorrow (Monday) evening and try to get some pics and show you how the whole thing comes apart. Once you start taking screws out, it goes pretty quick and isn't hard to figure out.

I'm wondering if you can help me with a problem I'm having with my truck regarding this topic: quite often now the speeds at which my truck shift's gears and the speedometer are both simultaneous wrong. Then once it decides to clear up and start acting right, usually after about 10 or so minutes of driving, the speedometer and shift points basically align themselves as if nothing ever happened. At first I thought it had something to do with my TPS 'position' on the side of the throttle body but now I'm not so sure.

Trogdor I'm wondering if you can help me with a problem I'm having with my truck regarding this topic: quite often now the speeds at which my truck shift's gears and the speedometer are both simultaneous wrong. Then once it decides to clear up and start acting right, usually after about 10 or so minutes of driving, the speedometer and shift points basically align themselves as if nothing ever happened. At first I thought it had something to do with my TPS 'position' on the side of the throttle body but now I'm not so sure.

I think Isuzu's work also but I have no idea on the bore and hub / lug centric.

Trogdor I don't get any joy out of this, (seriously, it is not my goal in life to slam other people's stuff and generally be a Hater on a daily basis, I'm not that guy) and every time I see a guy on the street that I can chat with about his tires, and he happens to have THAT particular tire, the Falken Rocky Mountain I always make it a point to tell them / ask them "WHY!?" Falken should have their butts sued hard for putting out a premium A/T where the outside (mud and soft terrain) biting lugs are going bald once the tire reaches HALF of its life. Its not right and if I don't say anything to warn others I wouldn't feel right with myself. I've already seen it several times, the outside edges of the tire are just two bald strips of rubber (I guess in the design stage some engineer thought it would be beneficial to add an extra 1/4" of un-cut rubber on the tire I guess to re-inforce the blocky tread to keep from squirming?) while the interior middle of the tire has plenty of tread. I don't have any other problems with the company than this subject. I've got a set of Falken Ziex tires on my wife's Altima, those are perfectly good tires and been happy with them. I know I'm the only one here shouting from the rooftops on how pleased I am with my A/T 3's and I'm sure y'all are probably sick of hearing it but I stand behind them, they are that good. Ofcourse I can only tell you about my experience in some wet mud and riding on the road: In the mud so far so good, I'm still pushing the envelope, and I'm always alone so mudding for me is always a little scary but so far my Coops have pulled me through; On the road they are great, ride good and quiet, there's no hum (yet anyway, only got like maybe 200 miles). If I were to change them, it would probably be for STT's. When I ended up getting these, I was also looking at the General Tire A/T 2 and the Toyo Open Country A/T 2. The General's are an old design like the BFGs; I really liked the look of the new Open Country's a lot but they were a little more pricey. Stifun check out this link here: for A/T tires http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showcat.php?cat=4 and this one for mud terrains http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showcat.php?cat=3

I don't know how you guys are finding these great deals where ever you live but here in Houston, TX it's next to impossible to get any kind of good deal drive out for less than $800. Tires are expensive here. 90Seven I grant you the BFG is an old tried and true tire and aggresive looking with its big outside lugs but man, I'm thrilled to death with our new Coopers and I think they look great, and I'll tell you this I don't think the BFG's would have made it through some of the crap that my AT/3's have gotten me through....I think they clear out and have way better traction in the muck. I've seen videos of guys getting stuck in wet grass with the BFGs, I personally don't see what makes them so great. People buy them because that is what gets pushed on them in the dealerships when they ask for an A/T tire and they haven't done any research prior to walking in. I had to order my Coopers and wait for them, while at the same time fighting off salesmen (like a tire buying Ninja!) trying to sell me on the BFG left and right. If I didn't have these, my next tire up would have been the Cooper STT M/T.

I felt like you at one time, you want to get the most competent tire for the least amount of pain possible, I know I was there for a year and a half. I finally broke down and paid about roughly $130 a tire plus installation at Discount tire for an awesome set of Cooper Discoverer AT/3 31 x 10.50 /15 tires. I searched every tire review and sales website possible. I finally ended up paying around $830 after install and it was worth it. To do what you want to do, for $500 you're going to have to basically get lucky on Craigs List. Because even if you went with the cheapest most unknown tire maker / off brand tires, the best you can hope for is around $115 (MAYBE) a tire for that size and type (i.e. offroad, a/t m/t etc...) You might find a good deal on Tire buyer.com or whatever else tire website but you still have to pay shipping charges which are around $30 per tire usually. The very best you can hope for locally brand new tires that you can go and have mounted are at Walmart: For $118 a tire and free pickup, at 30x9.5/15 this would be your BEST possible scenario http://www.walmart.com/ip/Nexen-13717NXK/19473272 Here would be the next one but it's smaller, cheaper but it's a mud terrain and it really goes down hill from here..this one is actually a really good value...I might would have picked this one over the Nexen at up above, even though its smaller: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Nexen-Roadian-MT-Tire-LT235-75R15-6/19474025 For 31 x 10.50 / 15 for any halfway decent tire or hell even one you don't want, you just almost can't find (here in our area in TX, you and I..) for under $130. For a good deal, $500 or under you gotta strike oil on Craigslist man. Sorry. Greg

I'm a subscriber to a guy that works on WD21s, I watched him do a UCA job once, made it look really REALLY easy. Here's a link to his videos, I recommend subscribing or saving this guy as a fav because he has a lot of nissan WD21 vids:

How about the rims and tires? Front seats, rear seats If they are nicer than the 91 model's, check the rear diff on the 95, it might be lsd, roof rack if it has one...hmm what kind of speakers and stereo? Maybe it's better than the older model. Power steering pump, alternator, battery, you could include the extra trans cooler use for engine oil cooler. Headlights, fog lights.....uhhhh that's all I got holmes. spoiler?

Guys you're all missing the point, this doesn't have anything to do with 4LOW, I know what happened! I was thinking about this post and I look down at the transfer shift lever, and I realized when you look at it it looks like its in neutral just buy the position of it. someone not familiar with a four-wheel-drive looking at it would think they are in neutral when there are really 2HI, so when he shifted into what he thought was 4Lo, he was really in 4hi actually, good old regular four wheel drive, and that is why he can't push it up in to 4 high because it is already in 2h all the way up. of course he would be confused because his perception was scewed to begin with. it would have been impossible for him to accidentally shift into 4 Lo, he would not have known to push in on the gear shift knob and then down again one more time into 4lo.

Yea same here, I've got a remote that works but I can't seem to get my system to 'wake up' and recognize that it's even got a counterpart remote there to talk to it. I've put the key in the ignition and pushed the button, I've long pushed it for like ten seconds and nothing ever happened.

I agree with Heater core also. During your 30 mile test drive, you said you only turned on the a/c just briefly, was there still water coming out of your glove box even though there should be very little to no a/c condensation built up to actually "slosh" out...? If you drive it today and run the a/c the entire time, get out and look under and see if you can see any wet spots on the ground where the a/c would be draning, maybe see it dripping. If YES then your not plugged up but have something going on with the heater core...I guess it would be air in the lines maybe...it all goes back to your radiator, I wonder if your radiator cap is old and needs to be changed, because that would mean that your boiling your water/coolant away, therefore providing space in the heater core to allow boiling water to "rumble" The cap would be the problem because when it no longer holds pressure, the boiling point of water/liquid drops. The higher the pressure, the higher the temp at which your coolant will boil away. And that is how you loose coolant even if you don't have a leaking radiator or hoses. Replace the cap and refill your radiator.

For some reason to get the link to work you need to cut and paste into the address bar

I'd like to get the Pre-Runner 8000s here on this page, but the DT3000 look nice also, I just like the idea of having the bump stops and the thicker tubing for durability, and also the way they describe the valving action. http://www.doetsch-shocks.com/2.asp I think for $45 a piece that's not so bad.

Ahem, You didn't mention the heated mirrors that clear up when you hit the defrost button! For myself I take great satisfaction in NOT having to manually wipe the mirrors dry, unlike the common folk of the XE! (insert effeminite stuffy titter here), I uh, mean I just really get a kick out of that! The first time I used it and realized my mirrors cleared up, I actually called my mom who has a 2nd Gen Toyota Highlander LE and told her.

Okay I'm confused..is this about Top Gear using replicas in the super car reviews instead of the real thing? I love Top Gear BBC but the guys in the american version are just all a bunch of dildos, and Tanner is the biggest one of all of them, I can't stand him, but I still don't see the point..

I say do the mud test: Go find some mud and go through in 2wd, if you can feel both tires pushing the whole time, you've got lsd! Another way to maybe get an idea is accelerate hard going through a turn, like say leaving a parking lot and turning onto a road, if your tires chirp, you have an lsd, because if they don't chirp, that means the inside and outside tires are turning at different speeds.

my guess is it was your bottom oil ring, I think most pistons have like two oil rings and then a compression ring at the top, one of your oil disinegrated and you've got one left that is apparently doing the job. You should get a compression test done to check the health of all your cylinders, because if I'm wrong, not one of your rings, in my opinion this is serious, bordering on major. I guess my 2nd guess would be a bearing from the crankshaft. Go get a cheap stethoscope from walgreens for like 15 bucks and start your engine, and listen underneath on the block, I don't know what your gonna hear but you'll probably know it when you do!

http://www.f150forum.com/f10/mindblower-performance-chip-24873/ who would have thought, a resistor scam. ?? Where do people come up with this crap?

I had the same problem, this is what fixed it for me, not a problem since. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33554-information-on-rough-idle-engine-stall-when-braking-slowing-to-turn-wdreaded-250-rpm-death-idle/

I can see you're going to be a riot to have here in the forums, if you know how to get down like that! Wow. What you've done with that little datsun truck, I have always dreamt of doing the same thing with the early / mid 70s (75) Toyota Celicas and their fantastic engines (20R, twin cam 18R, 6 cyl 5MGE, bullet proof engines). I love the look of the 75 GT coupe, with a hot engine, nice fat rims and tires, paint and rear wheel drive, that would be sooo much fun to get around town in! I had a 77 Celica ST once and I ADORED it. solid rear axle in those.