Slartibartfast

It is amazing how thin the stock wiring is. A lot of us end up relaying the headlights as well, both to improve light output and to reduce stress on the contacts in the switch.

I've got 555 LBJs, no issues so far. I like the boots better than the Moog UCAs I got at the same time. IIRC I ordered Beck Arnley LBJs and they showed up with 555 markings.

Don't splice them straight into the low beam wiring, the headlight wires are tiny and the contacts in the switch are a weak point as-is. Factory fogs were wired with a relay, triggered by the low beam circuit, with a switch interrupting that--so the fogs only come on if the low beams and the switch are both on. I had a couple 55W Hellas on mine for a while. Nice and bright, driving lights rather than fogs though. I angled them out a bit to light up the hoof rats lurking in the shadows. Figures I hit one in broad daylight and broke one of the lights.

First pic looks normal. Second one wants me to request permission to see it. My intake was black like that too. Twenty-odd years of exhaust gas recirculation and positive crankcase ventilation introducing soot and oil vapor into the intake will do that. I cleaned my throttle body (actually got a little power back doing that on my '95) and knocked out the carbon chunks that build up in the EGR port because I didn't like the idea of crunchy bits going into the engine, but I don't think the rest of it's really hurting anything or indicative of a problem. Pipe scraper, like the end of a bottle brush? They're actually supposed to have one of those in the PCV system, it's just something for the oil vapor to condense on so it runs back into the engine rather than getting sucked into the intake and burned. This guy reckons it's to keep oil from fouling out the MAF sensor. Speaking of which... If you're chasing a lean condition, take a look at the MAF sensor, too. That's the sensor between the intake tube and the air filter box. It's got little filaments inside that are electrically heated and cooled by the air going into the engine. The computer monitors the filaments (their resistance varies with their temperature) to see how much air it's adding fuel to. If those get insulated with gunk, the computer sees less air coming in than there is and the mixture goes lean. Ended up being the problem on a friend's Buick once. White spark plugs, went into limp mode if you pushed it hard, obviously running lean. Cleaning the years of schmutz off the MAF was all it needed. You can get special MAF cleaner, though I've used carb cleaner and isopropyl (think it was isopropyl) alcohol without issue. Be very careful not to break the filaments, and don't use a cleaner that leaves a residue. Also, do you know when the timing belt was done last? Probably not what you want to think about when you're up to your elbows in one thing, but these are interference. I got mine without service records, so I just went ahead and did the belt before I put it on the road to be on the safe side. Good luck!

Looked it up on factorynissanparts, of course it's discontinued, but the PN is 16240-03G15. I googled the PN and found a couple for sale.

Well, my dad talked to corporate, corporate talked to the shop, and the guy at the shop had me clean out the inside of the rims so he could try the stick-ons this time. They're stuck on now, so hopefully that's the end of this. I'd done some research into wheel weights and wondered if I'd hear the same thing Adam did, so I asked him what type of weights he'd used before. He seemed kind of confused and showed me the tray of weights and held one up. I asked if they were FNs or IAWs or what and he said something about how stuff got weird after they quit using lead. He didn't answer my question, but I guess he also kinda did.

Yeah, I learned about the valve caps the last time I had a set in. They took the nice metal caps, but these went in with crappy mouse-chewed blue plastic ones and would you believe they were still there when I got them back. Guess the tech didn't want those ones. Got the wheels back today after try #2. Still not right. They remembered to do the valve stems this time, and they got the weights tight on two of the wheels, but they still screwed up the other two. One weight's just a little loose, the other I'm sure I could remove with my fingers. I'm done with those idiots. I'm taking the tires to a different shop. If the work going out the door is consistently garbage, the management is garbage, too.

Got all excited about putting the Legos back on with new tires, until one of the wheel weights fell off in my hand. Turns out the rest are loose. Near as I can tell, the halfwit at Les Schwab grabbed the wrong weights, got them kinda sorta on there, and somehow thought that was acceptable.

Read up on SMOD (strawberry milkshake of death) if you haven't yet. Common issue on R51s and Xterras with the VQ40 (not sure of the exact year range on the Xterras), easy to prevent, kills the trans if you don't. I've read that the traction control on the R51 can't be turned off, which is annoying. Also obviously check for corrosion given where you are, I saw a picture of a rotted out R51 frame on the FB group the other day and it looked just like how the WD21s rust out! I guess they're real Pathfinders after all. The list of options you're looking at kinda begs the question of what you're really looking for. If you're just looking for a daily that won't see much off-road action or towing, I'd expect the Subaru or the Acura to handle better and be better on gas.

Only sticking in first is weird. Your theory about the fork not returning makes sense to me, though I haven't done much messing with clutches yet. The CL section of the '02 service manual might have something helpful, or at least a diagram of what it should look like.

Almost seems like a shame to bedline a clean truck, but it would help break up the beige. I'd say go for it. Flat black's good at making things disappear, so it seems like the perfect choice for those rims, but might not be worth it if you're going to replace them anyway (might make them harder to get rid of).

^^I saw that too about the seat interchange. Seems like the seat back adjusters would be on the wrong side, but that may not be an issue depending on how often you mess with them. I'm hoping the WD21 rails are the same, the driver's seat in mine is pretty worn out.

Sounds like you lost the marker light circuit. Controls the dash lights, corner lights, plate lights. Mine quit when the license plate lights shorted out (cheap heat shrink slid off, I use the adhesive-lined stuff now) and popped the fuse. If you've got a trailer harness, check that first, I've heard of those getting packed with mud when wheeling and shorting out.

Looks a lot like the Cragar soft 8, and various other steelies out there. Haven't heard of them but I don't see anything obviously wrong with them. Probably good to check backspacing before ordering them up, though. Not sure why their website asked for a password, that was weird.

The door lock timer in mine auto unlocks the doors if the key's still in, not sure what year that came out but it's done its job a few times. I don't think I've tested it since I removed the alarm, but I assume it still works. The only documentation I've found on the alarm system is NTB93-036. It's very short and there's no troubleshooting, just a circuit diagram and programming instructions. It's from '93, not sure if later systems changed enough to matter. (I don't remember where I got it--couldn't find it on Nico last I looked). It says to turn the key on, then off. Press and hold the button and the siren will make four individual beeps, followed by five in a burst. Release the button. When it chirps again, hit the arm/disarm (not panic) button on the transmitter, and it should chirp to acknowledge. Sounds like it's got enough memory for four transmitters, so just do the same one four times to bump out any programming it may have (sounds like it'll keep prompting you forever, but it'll only remember the last four entries). Turn the ignition on and off again to end programming. Comparing this to your second procedure, it looks like you were doing the right thing there. The lack of the confirmation noise might be an issue with the siren. Mine was dead due to a wire having broken inside, and I was able to repair it (not that I have a use for it at this point). The clicking is probably the alarm flashing the parking lights. I wouldn't be surprised if the lights were supposed to flash each time the siren beeped. But yeah, if you're looking for something reliable, you can do a whole lot better than a 20+ year old system with iffy documentation.

Huh, I didn't know they went back that far! I'm kind of curious to cut one open and see how (if?) they're reinforced. R-12 as a tire inflator.

I had a headlight lose a seal too. I filled it with water to find where it was leaking (think I had to blow into it to really track anything down), then dried it out and JB welded the seam all the way around. Still holding strong against moisture, but I think I waited a little too long, because some of the reflective coating inside the housing peeled off. My grille comes off without pulling the bumper, though I've got the later bumper too. Might be a little tight to get the screwdriver in there, but it should be doable. You may also have a hard time if your bumper's a little cockeyed; the bottom screw for one of my corner lights has been more difficult to work with since the bumper had an argument with a hoof rat a while ago. I replaced the clips with zip ties on mine.

I haven't lifted mine, so I haven't been through most of this, but I haven't heard of anyone having to change wheel sizes to clear aftermarket UCAs. I'd leave the bushings in the new UCAs alone unless they're used/worn out. And yeah, you'll have to back off the torsion bar adjusters to get the LCAs out. Expect to do a little screwing around to get the ride height back where you want it when you put it all back together. A friend and I saved some time when we did the LCAs on his Chevy by spraying a little paint at each torsion bar adjuster (different color on each side), so that all we had to do to readjust it was line up the paint marks. The Nissan adjuster isn't built quite the same as the Chevy, but I think the same trick would work.

Been a while but I think it was it was the 50 mph/50 miles variety.

More than likely ATF. I think the gear oil recommendation was for manual trans trucks in case of cross-contamination, not that I've ever heard of one of these doing that. If in doubt, pull the fill plug and see what's in it now. That's for the TX10A manual transfer case (stick through the floor). If you've got the ATX14A all-mode transfer case (heater-knob looking 4x4 selector on the dash with an "auto" mode), that's ATF only.

The EL section of the service manual has diagrams of the Bose and base systems. Should help you track down what's up. The base system shows the door speakers and tweeters wired together after the amp, the Bose looks like it's got a little amp of some variety on each door speaker. The schematic makes it look the the amp is built into the speaker or attached to it in some way. There's probably a location of electrical units diagram or something in there as well. Good luck!

Filament bulbs don't care about polarity, LEDs do. I'd check the wiring diagrams in the FSM to see where those get power. I assume they're run to either a switch in the shifter mechanism or the range sensor on the trans. I'd start with the EL section. It's also possible yours just wasn't fitted with that option. My '93 has an idiot light for low washer fluid with no bulb in it, but installing a bulb wouldn't do much because the wiring and the float sensor aren't present either.

I can't remember if I ever took mine off or not. I wouldn't be surprised if carbon buildup has it seized right proper in its bore. A good tap with a hammer in the middle of the plate might jar the thing loose. Failing that, I'd see if I could get the thing to pivot in its hole, like removing a stubborn hose. Tapping on either mounting ear with a hammer and punch or screwdriver would probably do it. Looks like it's thick enough metal to cope with some abuse, but obviously avoid going full gorilla, especially if you're planning on reusing the gasket.

I did something similar to what xplorx4 did with a little piece of inner tube. If the R50 switch is like the WD21 switch, you can also take them apart and clean out the corrosion and schmoo that might be causing problems. IIRC the R50 alarm system has its own horn, on the passenger's side of the engine bay. If you unplugged that, and the siren (assuming it has a siren too), all the alarm could do is flash the lights.

Interesting. Sounds like the hazard switch isn't making a connection it should.