Slartibartfast

Overheating may have contributed to pump failure, but I suspect the pump running dry after that hose failed probably did more to kill the seals. I think I put a Gates pump in mine, it was a while ago though. Replacing the fan clutch while you're already in there wouldn't add any work and might save some aggravation later on (nice to pick when you replace something rather than waiting for it to fail), but I don't think bolting an old clutch to a new pump is going to bring all holy hell down upon you. I reused my fan clutch haven't had a problem with it. If it goes, I'll replace it, but I'm sure as hell not going to tear the timing apart again to replace the water pump at the same time, unless it's due for one anyway or I have some reason to suspect that the pump itself is compromised. As for one component wrecking the other, maybe if the clutch is horribly out of balance it might hurt the pump bearings, or if the pump bearings are shot they might... I dunno, rattle the clutch to death? I'm not sure how they'd support that claim. Maybe that "rule" came from frustration with people bolting a roached clutch to a new pump and complaining that the pump must be defective because their car still overheated. Either that or it's BS from the marketing department. That's usually all you get in a product description.

The stock system taps into the door lock system but isn't integral to it (I removed mine and the door locks work the same as they ever did). The only thing wrong with mine was that the siren didn't work and the PO had long since lost the fob. Not sure if a new one would be more/less reliable than stock, I haven't messed around with alarm systems apart from removing mine. The wiring you'd need for the aftermarket alarm should all be there where the original was unless the new one has other features/needs. TSB NTB 93-036 has the wiring diagram of the stock alarm system, which should identify everything you'd need to wire an aftermarket alarm or to program a new fob into your standard one. I thought I got it from Nico but I can't find it on there now (not listed with the other TSBs in the jumble that is the '93 "manual," unless it's one of the files labelled in Latvian rather than listed by #). PM me your email and I'll send you the PDF.

Yep, round dash got the rear washer control moved to the stalk. The plastic trim on the rear door comes off pretty easily and gives you access to the wiper mechanism.

Interesting. I'll have to take a closer look. I should probably pull the dash anyway, I think I've still got fluff in the vents from when the mice got in because it doesn't blow nearly as hard as it should.

Tempting! I'll have to take a long hard look at my dashboard and decide if I really want to pull it all apart again. It was so much fun the last time.

^Yup, what he said. Temp sensor for the auto aircon. The little grille on the HVAC panel (diagonal slots next to the A/C button) is where it draws air from, there's actually a suggestion in the service manual to check its operation by blowing cigarette smoke at that grate and seeing if it gets sucked in. IIRC the little fan in there runs whenever the truck is powered up, not just with the hvac in auto mode. It shouldn't be whistling, though. Sounds like the little fan in there might be on its way out, or there's something restricting the tube. Mine makes a slight ticking sound as the fan runs and that's it. I'm still not entirely sure what the point of the auto HVAC is, honestly. I preferred the simplicity of the manual HVAC in my '95.

This picture (from a listing for a full cylinder) shows the one Phillips screw holding the switch in place (top right image, it's down under where the wires are soldered on when it's mounted on the truck). The switch itself looks like this, if that helps. I remember I thought I was in for a fight on mine until I moved the wires and discovered the screw behind them. It took me longer to route the wiring back through than it did to install the switch. Hopefully Nissan didn't do something weird on yours. I think the Binky episode is this one. Doesn't look like they say which parts they used, though they do show what look like Sumitomo connectors around the 29 minute mark (and mention earlier that the harness they're using does use Sumitomo plugs, among others). They didn't mention the sourcing, unfortunately. Last ditch you could use the pigtail from your old starter switch and cut the others you need off a loom at the wreckers, and then splice those to the pigtails for the Easyguard. Yes, they're splices, but they're not splices into the original harness, so they can be unplugged if something goes wrong. Now that I'm thinking about it, though, why do you need to tap into the brake and clutch switches in the first place? The truck's already got a starter interlock on the clutch, between the ignition switch and the starter, which should work the same with the Easyguard as it does with the factory switch. It should even have a rocker switch on the dash to turn the interlock off if needed (I think all years had that?). I'd just loop those wires at the box so it thinks the clutch is always depressed and leave the factory interlock in place. Otherwise you'd have to butcher the factory harness to bypass the old interlock, or you'd have two interlocks on the same circuit to try and troubleshoot later and a switch on the dash that doesn't do anything. And what does it need a brake pedal feed for? Unless it needs that signal for programming the keys or something, I'd just loop that one, too. Otherwise you'd have to make some kind of tee harness off one of the switches on the pedal (one for the brake lights and one to cancel the cruise control), and then I'd be concerned about the circuits cross-talking or frying something if the box is expecting a switched ground instead of switched +, or isn't expecting switched power at all.

I replaced just the switch on my '93. It can be replaced pretty easily without removing the whole lock cylinder. The switch itself doesn't hold the weight of the keys, so that shouldn't be a problem. Couple of screws, plug and play. If you have to remove the whole cylinder, you have to drill out the fasteners. The physical lock also controls the steering lock, so if you remove the physical lock to fit the Easyguard, you'll also lose the steering lock. I know the guys behind Project Binky managed to track down some Sumitomo connector components for wiring their bonkers Mini (their harness had an odd mix of plugs on it), so it's probably out there somewhere. I'd be less worried about wiring splices (provided they were done right) than I would be about something going wrong with the $40 push-and-pray keyless start button kit.

I haven't messed with VQs but from what I've read, they can be real drama queens about having the TB cleaned. Not that it's damaged, but it's drive by wire, and the computer expects a certain angle to equal a certain air flow rate. It learns if that changes slowly (as it gets dirty), but if it changes suddenly, it assumes something is wrong and doesn't want to relearn. I remember doing some kind of reset on my dad's '03 (which involved doing a dance with pedals and the ignition switch and probably something else, it was a while ago) to try and resolve a different issue. Maybe doing that first would make it forget that it's upset, and then it would do the relearn procedure properly? If you haven't yet you can get the factory service manuals here. If you scroll past all the hand-holding for how to use the Consult system, there should be some actual diagnostics and instructions for how to do stuff without Consult in there somewhere. Good luck!

Adding a ground to a connection that's supposed to be ground already should not blow fuses. Sounds like something's shorted. Given how my front blinkers like to get water inside, I'd probably start by checking those, unless (again) you have a trailer harness to check out.

I'd be interested to see how much those LCA mounts actually shift around without a missing link. Make a collapsible missing link (one piece of conduit sleeved over another smaller one or something like that), rigid enough that it doesn't flop up and down but free to slide so it's not providing any actual bracing. Rig a Sharpie to one piece, with the tip resting against the other piece, and then take the truck out for a rip. If the mounts move relative to each other (movement the missing link would prevent), the Sharpie will draw a line the length of the total deflection. Then crawl back under and measure the length of the line. (Or mount a GoPro if you have one of those laying around for a better look at what's going on under varying circumstances, not just the max deflection.) That could make a compelling case for/against this mod.

Is your coolant low? Are you having to top it up frequently? If the head gasket is leaking coolant into the engine and making a mess, that coolant has to come from somewhere. If the coolant level is stable, then the schmoo is probably just from condensation on the cap. If it's not losing coolant, and the oil on the dipstick still looks like oil, I'd chalk it up to it being cold as hell outside and just keep an eye on it. One test I've seen online is to take an oil sample (could just be a few drips off the dipstick for all it matters) and heat it in a spoon or something with a lighter. If it's just oil, it'll get hot and runny and that's all. If it's got coolant in it, it should pop and spit as the moisture flashes to steam.

Longer trips are supposed to get the engine warm enough to drive out the moisture. Are you losing coolant?

So the valve pops into a rubber bushing? Try a little grease on the bushing if you haven't yet. The replacement PCV I got for my '93 was the wrong thread pitch. No idea why. I ended up cleaning out the old one and reusing it rather than trying to figure out why the replacement was NPT and the stock one was something else.

The wheel being wonky is worrying. Hopefully it's not the frame that's tweaked. And yeah, the service manual downloads are a great resource!

If you're looking into the flasher itself, with two pins side by side and the third one on top, the testing procedure on EL-33 shows ground as the pin on your right. EL-32 shows it as a black wire (as usual for grounds). The pin across from that has brown wire with a white stripe that goes to the hazard switch, so that's the output. The third pin (on top of the other two) is green and splits to the hazard switch and the turn signal switch, so that's the + feed for the flasher unit.

"... looks as rugged as its name sounds!" Well, if the name sounds like a light rock cover band in a hotel lounge, then yeah, that's about right. They clearly tried to make a Subaru. And look at that approach angle! My mom's CRV has better clearance than that!

Yikes! That's a pretty good crunch. I think any year fender should bolt up, but I remember the mounting points for the fender flares being different--a flare off a '93 at the wreckers didn't fit my '95, but the flares from my '95 fit my current '93, so I assume some time in '93 was the cutoff. It was a rear one I couldn't make swap, though, so the front might not be included in that. (It was also a long time ago, so I might've missed something obvious at the time.) The rest of the fender should be the same on any Pathy or 4x4 Hardbody (2WD Hardbody fenders are flatter). Hood should be the same. Bumper's different on early vs late Pathfinders, but that's pretty easy to tell just looking at it. Grilles vary but it's just visual unless you go for a Hardbody grille with the sealed-beam lights (some guys do swap that out to get more headlight options--you need the buckets too if you do that). I'd be surprised if the core support changed. If in doubt, look up the part # for a '95 and for an '87 and see if you get the same number. When I tweaked my support a while ago I was able to straighten it with a strap, though the deer was much nicer to mine than the Tahoe was to yours. I'd still be tempted to beat it flat and clean it up here and there if necessary rather than replace the entire support unless it's absolutely roached. Hopefully it doesn't look as bad once you get the panels off. Nico's service manual archive has a body repair manual. It's for a '90 but the measurements, weld locations, etc might come in handy for getting your straightened out. It's got more than you ever wanted to know about where the welds are, what kind of plastic things are, what kind of steel they used, what kind of seams, and how the paint was layered, and more importantly they've got measurements to check against.

Back from the dead! I did a little sound matting when I had mine apart, but used one of the cheaper options. I think the biggest thing I found was that the glue holding the roof to the crossbars had failed in a few places, allowing for quite a bit of roof flex. I don't think I have enough bass for it to matter but I filled the gaps up there with seam sealer while I was looking at it. Definitely sounded better when I knocked on it, for whatever that's worth. My understanding is that any first-gen Xterra with the 3.3 has a compatible trans.

I do (somewhere) but unfortunately it's just the headlight contacts, not the contacts for your blinker. The headlight contacts are arranged with two groups of two contacts top and bottom (left and right high beam on one side, low beam on the other) with the marker light (corner, tail, license plate, dash lights) contact in the middle. Easy enough to see which batch is for which beam by messing with the stalk and watching them move (that's how I worked it out). I haven't had a reason to open up the turn signal part of the switch so I have no idea how to get into that or what would likely go wrong. That said, given that yours isn't just acting up on right or left, it's acting up on both, I'd be surprised if the switch was the issue.

I'll second the comment in the thread Redpath linked that the hazard switch can interrupt the turn signals from working. These old rocker switches can be a bit fragile, so if the switch doesn't move easily (or the rocker feels like it's not held right on one of its hinge points), that could well be part of it. +1 for checking your trailer harness as well, if you've got one of those. The EL section of the manual shows ground points, but not all together. I had a look and it looks like the flasher gets ground from ground points 232M and 202M. 232M is a ring terminal on the A pillar behind the passenger's side outer kick panel and 202M is a ring terminal on the other A pillar behind the driver's outer kick panel (shown in the diagram on EL-82, but make sure you've got your glasses on). Seems unlikely that the ground point is the problem, given the redundancy, but it's worth a check anyway I guess. There's also test procedure for the flasher on page EL-33 of the '95 manual. Too bad OP in the other thread didn't report the fix. Good luck and let us know what you find!

So, how many sheets of drywall can you get into a GTR?

EGR = Exhaust gas recirculation. It pipes exhaust gas into the intake when you're cruising to make the engine run a little more efficiently. The power output of an engine depends on how much air it can suck in (and mix with fuel and burn). You control the engine's output using the throttle, which is just an air valve. When you're cruising, the throttle's not open much, and the engine isn't putting out much power. Foot to the floor, the throttle's wide open, and the engine puts out everything it's got. There's a problem with this. When the throttle's not fully open, the engine is fighting for air, and that fight causes what's called pumping loss. The engine is fighting to breathe, and that fight is wasting energy. To reduce pumping loss, we can let the engine breathe something that isn't air to make up for the air we don't want it to have. Exhaust gas is basically inert as far as the engine cares. It's burned already. It doesn't change the fuel mixture--it just fills space. Basically, it makes a big engine at partial throttle act more like a little engine running wide open by filling the displacement the engine isn't using with exhaust gas. The computer shuts off the EGR when you floor it, of course, and also at idle. From what I've read, these do run a little better with the EGR system than without it, provided it's working properly. Mine works, so I haven't had a reason to mess with it beyond replacing the vacuum lines and cleaning out some carbon deposits (it is exhaust gas, it isn't exactly clean) when I had my intake off anyway. There's a diagnostic procedure in the service manual if yours is acting up or throwing codes.

Heet should be pretty easy to find, and if not, yes, it's just alcohol. Looks like there are a couple of kinds (methanol or isopropanol). Either way, the alcohol mixes with both water and gas, so the water mixes into the gas instead of pooling at the bottom of the tank. Hopefully that's all it is!

Rise, zombie, rise! Not on a Pathy but this video shows a pretty good gain relaying the headlights on a Jeep, with before and after measurements using a proper lux meter.