Slartibartfast

An older engine, especially one that wasn't terribly precise to begin with, might benefit from thicker oil. I think my dad runs 20w-50 in the tractor engine that powers his '67 Triumph. The VGs are more precise, so unless it's well and truly flogged out, 5 or 10 weight is probably fine.

I can see that making it wander but I suspect the shaking is more about the flat spot... sounds like when you turn it puts more weight on that tire and makes it wobble. Why not just swap rims/tires with the red one, if you're not driving it much anyway? (Or just put the tire with the flat spot in the back?) That way you could rule the tire in or out.

Yeah, I don't think mine's ever ticked for more than 30 seconds at a time.

If the oil is too thick, the lifters tick... mine do it with 10-30 when the car's sat in freezing temps overnight.

I dunno, rotate the tires and see if goes away? Sounds like an out-of-balance wheel to me. Also sounds like your odometer is off!

Dunno about the R50 but on the WD it's easy (necessary even) to mess with the MAF to get to the air filter. If the plug is corroded or loose, this may have broken connection inside. Def check the codes but I'd start by checking the MAF wiring.

Check the wiring diagrams in the FSM? I'd suspect a bad relay.

^^That's only true for the HBs. In the Pathfinders it's in the passenger's rear quarter behind the trim. IIRC it's even marked.

Awesome, thank you!

Certainly doesn't sound good. Maybe before giving up on it, try swapping in the trans computer from the red one? I doubt it's the problem but at least you could rule it out. No idea on the oil leak. I know mine's leaking from somewhere but it's so slow that I haven't been bothered to find it yet. But it runs just fine, right? I'd start comparing its engine to the engine in the red one, especially with the timing. Probably easier to get the red one running right than to swap its transmission into the black one.

The flickering door light is usually the rear hatch sensor. Apparently you can shim it or something. If that doesn't help, check the contacts behind the steering wheel. Mine were so gunked up that the horn didn't even work.

Pretty sure any VG is interference, but yeah, it would fit. Fixing the valves on your #4 would probably be about the same amount of work though.

Do you remember the part number for those cups?

My understanding is that you do. The stock ones aren't that good. Apparently you can weld bearing cups or something on there instead to hold the bushings. I don't have a part # for that though.

That's got the same engine (almost) as the Pathfinder. Does the guy give any details on his setup?

Or get a straight one and have it bent.

You'd probably be better off with a high-flow cat and a louder muffler, maybe headers. From what I remember somebody on here had dual exhaust and complained of power loss.

Discovered that the loudspeaker attached to the factory alarm can be connected to other things... PA system anybody? I've got mine hooked to the chicken dance ATM...

If it was the TC I'd expect it to do the same thing in forward gears as well. And yeah, if it's gunky enough to bind up the valves, a solvent flush might just loosen the clog and put it somewhere else. Maybe drop the pan when you drain it and see how it looks inside?

KBB for my area says up to $2k for a nice one... dunno if I'd pay that but I wouldn't lowball the guy either, unless it's got serious issues. And yeah, the catalytic makes loads more sense, especially in California! Probably what it is.

Does sound like the timing belt broke... usually takes the valves with it. Not necessarily a bad thing, in fact it means there's a lot of stuff recently fixed! I'm a little surprised to see the torque (?) converter, maybe ask what went wrong with it. It should have a new timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, thermostat, etc. I'd check the fluids and double check the frame... I didn't realize that mine was rusted at all until I took a wheel off and thumped on it. Make sure the trans engages reverse smoothly. If it runs and drives properly, it sounds like a good deal to me. My dad bought mine for $1600 and it needed all kinds of stuff.

^^What he said. You can take the headlight switch apart and clean the contacts, which should solve the problem, but the relay mod keeps it from happening again. I don't remember what doing mine cost, but it took a couple evenings, some wire, some plugs, and two junkyard relays ($2 each!).

Did you check the linkage yet? If that's not adjusted right (you said the shifter was funny) it might not be opening valves fully, thus not engaging gears properly until you hit the throttle and throw some more pressure at it. Get that working, then look at the trans itself.

I can relate I'd start with the stuff you took out to get to the manifold... chances are something didn't go back together quite right. What all did you remove?