Slartibartfast

Voltage but no power could mean a bad ground, or really a bad/corroded connection anywhere in the system. The voltmeter doesn't need to pass much current to check for continuity, but the bulb draws a whole lot of juice. I rigged up a fishfinder for my neighbor once and had this problem: the voltmeter said all was good, but the unit wouldn't power up until we ran a new ground. The fogs in mine didn't work when I got it, and the PO had given it an unsuccessful go (rat's nest). My dad stripped out the busted up factory wiring and just wired them up like he was fitting accessory lights. He tapped power for the switch at the fuse box, from a vacant relay slot. They're grounded to the firewall and fused where they hook to the battery. I think my switch lights up when it's on, not with the headlights. I'm not sure if that's factory or my dad's work. Preference, I guess... one way you can tell at a glance if they're on, the other way you can tell where the switch is in the dark. I'd crawl underneath and take a look at the O2 wiring. Mine was inexpertly rewired at some point and one of the wires was hanging out of the connector. It wasn't throwing a code, oddly enough. Anyway I'd just find the sensor, go along the length of wire as far as you can, and look for points where it might be rubbing, corroded, whatever. I'm no help on the alarm, I haven't figured out how to make mine work either. Maybe it's like the door lock timers and they get cracks in the solder joints. I haven't really needed to use it so I figure I'll end up tearing it out.

I haven't heard of anyone having a problem after seafoaming an engine. That said I wouldn't beat the piss out of the engine with Seafoam in the crank case... seems like it wouldn't lube things as well under load. Maybe take it around the block a couple times.

^Yeah, nothing like getting arrested for impersonating an officer. If I did it I'd probably use white LEDs... I think white and orange are legal, dunno about flashers though. Maybe if I hooked it up to the turn signals. (Maybe I'm overthinking this.) It was at the same temp (around the 1/2 mark on the gauge) as it always is after driving today, so I'm going to say it didn't really make a difference. And the Cheddar sounds great! My people were so desperate that they resorted to Velveeta... very few survived.

Are you sure it's up to temperature? The clutch itself has to hit a certain temp to lock up the fan.

How fast was it running when you dunked it? And how long has it been since? There's a chance that the hydrolock screwed up the engine, but seeing as how it runs at all I'd check for wet electricals first.

Got a daylight pic of them installed! Might look better on a hood that's not all pocked up. LOL not a bad idea... think I'll leave it for somebody with a black truck, though. I wonder how much air would get through... seems like you'd have to cut the inside of the vent totally out (and cut the bracing inside the hood) to get much out of it. My planet has run out of cheese. I come in peace.

So I asked a while back if it would hurt anything to trim up the vents. Nobody had a good reason why not, so I went for it. Mine had a little white overspray on them, so I painted them black while I was at it. I started with these. I considered cutting out the whole inside, but figured that a) they'd be too flimsy to install, b ) they'd be a PITA to do, and c) they'd just show the bracing inside the hood. So instead, I focused on the little slits in the back. Those slits go to baffles, which stick out maybe five cm from the body of the thing. Here's a back shot of what I'm talking about. The bench grinder made short work of these, but do this outside, because this plastic (ABS?) smells like cancer. I ground them almost flush with the rest of the part, scraped off the melted bits, and then cleared the burrs with a screwdriver. Here's the finished product after two coats of flat black. I've got them clipped it, but its dark out, so no installed pics just yet. And yes, I know, this will make zero difference in how the car functions. But they look a lot nicer IMO, and that's worth a half-hour's work.

+1 on the old Tercels, I've seen Youtube vids of them going places I'd hesitate to take my WD. And Tungsten, don't confuse British with British Leyland. Really? I always thought mine was kinda ass-light. Not that I've rallied it lately.

Looks good to me! I like your approach to it. Just wondering, how's it sound? When I had the resonator off of my stock airbox it made this awful whistling noise.

So my dad has an 03 R50, which he's found has a little oil consumption, which from what I've read is likely the fault of clogged baffles in the PCV system. Looks like the remedy is replacing the PCV assembly and valve cover. We were thinking though, rather than replace a lousy design with a lousy design... what if we removed the PCV stuff from the valve cover, and fitted an aftermarket PCV setup in its place? Has this been done? We're planning to pull the intake to check the valve screws, and figured we might as well do this at the same time.

Does it still have the high idle? And did you mess with the Throttle Position Sensor at all?

And get it aligned before you wear out those tires! Cool neighbors. Tried swapping TCUs yet?

The strap-on rack sounds like a great way to discourage people from tailgating you! I'd probably go for permanent.

The cross rails are a little sketch, but maybe you could hook the basket directly to the roof rails?

Good idea.

Probably something that could be resoldered or something... given the PITA factor of tearing the dash apart twice, though, a new one might be easier!

Hosed it down and cleaned the smears off the windows. Doesn't look much different but at least I can see now!

Yeah, those strut rod bushings look seriously sketchy! I heard that one of the summer fires we had around here a few years ago was started by the PUD guys driving out on an overgrown service road to check the power lines. From what I head it was from dragging the catalytic through the grass. Of course I head this third-hand... And out here you only have to get an inspection (lights etc) if you're re-titling a vehicle IIRC, otherwise it's just a matter of paying for a new set of tabs.

An older engine, especially one that wasn't terribly precise to begin with, might benefit from thicker oil. I think my dad runs 20w-50 in the tractor engine that powers his '67 Triumph. The VGs are more precise, so unless it's well and truly flogged out, 5 or 10 weight is probably fine.

I can see that making it wander but I suspect the shaking is more about the flat spot... sounds like when you turn it puts more weight on that tire and makes it wobble. Why not just swap rims/tires with the red one, if you're not driving it much anyway? (Or just put the tire with the flat spot in the back?) That way you could rule the tire in or out.

Yeah, I don't think mine's ever ticked for more than 30 seconds at a time.

If the oil is too thick, the lifters tick... mine do it with 10-30 when the car's sat in freezing temps overnight.

I dunno, rotate the tires and see if goes away? Sounds like an out-of-balance wheel to me. Also sounds like your odometer is off!

Dunno about the R50 but on the WD it's easy (necessary even) to mess with the MAF to get to the air filter. If the plug is corroded or loose, this may have broken connection inside. Def check the codes but I'd start by checking the MAF wiring.

Check the wiring diagrams in the FSM? I'd suspect a bad relay.