Slartibartfast

Mine was clean too! I think the pins were just wallered out.

Mine did something similar. Kinda fell on its face just off idle, otherwise fine. The plug for the MAF was worn out. Hasn't done that (or the stalling at idle that it also sometimes did, which usually went away for a while when I messed around with the plug) since I replaced the pigtail.

Looks like it. Hawairish's LSD thread says the early X or Fronty LSD has the best stock breakaway torque of the 33-spline H233Bs, so keep an eye out for that if you have/want an LSD.

Nope, not unless you swap the front diff too, and most people who swap ratios are going the other way.

AFAIK it should swap right in, provided the gear ratios are the same (check the data plate in the engine bay).

IIRC the R50 retained the WD21's blinky-lights OBD for the transmission computer. Should be covered in the AT section of the manual. I don't think this can give you live data, but it should tell you if the transmission computer is upset about something, which may give you a place to start.

I'm curious about this mystery plug you've got. I had a look at the ignition wiring in mine. Black/white and blue to the coil is correct. Behind that (towards the firewall) should be a three-wire plug going to the transistor (labelled PRW-2 if it's original). Directly below the coil, I've got what looks like a small four-wire plug with a cap on it, which I believe is the resistor and condenser. (Mine is zip tied to the harness, but I think it was originally taped in place.) I am not seeing another two-wire connector in that area with the same style of plug. What color are the wires on this mystery plug? The evap system's on the opposite side of the engine, and it has no electrical components, so it's not for that. Did you take the distributor out when you had the engine apart? If it didn't go back in the correct orientation, you may have spark, but the timing's so far out that it can't do anything with it.

Weird. Good to hear it's back together!

I had an issue with my brakes a while back that led to me replacing the master cylinder multiple times, thinking the prop valves were faulty. I never nailed down what was actually wrong (I suspect I had a particularly stubborn air bubble holed up in one of the unions in the rear circuit), but it sure wasn't the MCs I kept replacing while chasing the bastard. I wouldn't be shocked at one bad new part, but three in a row from three different sources would have me checking my work before ordering another one. Are you certain it's leaking from the bleeder, and not from somewhere else in the clutch plumbing (lines, fittings, damper)? A leak upstream that's running down the outside of the plumbing could drip from about the same place, and would explain why replacing the slave three times hasn't fixed it. If you're not sure where it's coming from, prop up your phone, set it to record, pump the clutch, and check the footage to see where it sprayed from. (Might want to set it back a ways so you don't douse your phone in brake fluid.) Hell, are you sure it's leaking at all? I bleed brakes with a clear tube over the nipple on the bleeder, which works fine, except that it tends to leak and pull in air between the bleeder and the hose, or (if the bleeder's open) around its threads. This can make it look like you're flushing out a whole bunch of air, when you're not, which has tripped me up in the past. If in doubt, pop the hose off, see if it still looks like it's leaking. If you are definitely 100% seeing fluid come out of the bleeder, when you know it's tight, I'd check the pointy end of the bleeder and the hole it goes in for any obvious defects, buggered threads, or swarf. You might be able to see a witness mark around the end of the bleeder where it's supposed to be sealing off the hole--see if that mark goes the whole way around, or if there's a garf across that mark that would prevent the surfaces from sealing. If you've got the old one sitting around, and you can get its bleeder out, I would compare it to the new ones to see what the hell changed. I hate hydraulics. Good luck!

My best guess is that whatever clogged your old expansion valve, also clogged the new one, but I'm not an aircon guy. There should be some troubleshooting in the service manual (free download from Nicoclub, should be the HA section), might point you in the right direction?

Looks good! How do you like the AT3s? My AT2s have been great, but they're getting a little long in the date codes.

The coil wire isn't a power feed. The computer sends a pulse to the power transistor, which sends a more powerful pulse to the coil, which sends a high voltage pulse to the cap. It arcs through the cap to whichever contact the cap is pointing at. If you suspect the cap is involved, check for spark from the coil wire to ground. If you don't have spark there, check the wiring/plugs on the transistor and coil. I would also check the wiring to the distributor--the sensor inside is how the computer knows the engine's position.

Yeah, that's pretty bad. That water pump bearing has ceased to be. I'm surprised it's still holding coolant! Unfortunately the water pump is behind the timing belt, so there's a fair bit of teardown required to get to it. It's doable in a driveway, provided nothing's seized/rusted solid, but you'll need a few tools, including a puller to get the balancer off, and the big socket (1-1/16 IIRC) for the crank bolt. And of course you'll need a new water pump. I'd order a bypass hose too--it may not survive removal, and should be replaced anyway. Do you know when the timing belt was done last? You'll have the belt off to get to the pump anyway, and if the pump died of old age, then the belt and its tensioner probably aren't far behind. (I recommend doing the cam and crank seals while you're in there--I skipped my crank seal and it started leaking as soon as I put it all back together.) I've got an '89 service manual on Dropbox, EM section covers the belt job. 5523's writeup is for a VG33, but may also help. I used his method for setting belt tension over the fussy way the service manual wanted me to do it. I would be tempted to try and macgyver something something to limp it home (maybe a 12v pump spliced into a rad hose, tstat/fan/belt removed, shorter belt for the alt, electric fan--basically abandon the pump in place), but I suspect it would end up being the same amount of work for something that might get you home. Good luck! Hopefully it doesn't wreck your whole weekend.

There's a Land Rover PN that's popular for the rear springs. For the front, you can get springs or spacers, but you can only go so far before you run into CV issues or strut top-out. Do some research on the strut tops, seems like a few people have had issues getting those set up right. I'm not an R50 guy and don't have specifics--do some digging around in old project threads and you should find all you need.

Might be worth sticking a fuel pressure gauge on it. See if the fuel pressure drops when the engine sputters out. I would also be curious to see if it'll fire on ether or carb cleaner when it won't fire on gas. If it runs on spray, but not otherwise, then you know you have a fuel issue. (You know for a fact that there's gas in it, right?) I'm not sure what connection the overheat would have to a fuel issue, though, or what the overheat would've damaged that would stall it out without some other obvious evidence of failure (losing coolant, white cloud out the tailpipe, schmoo under the oil cap, hellacious blow-by). Might also be worth pulling a spark plug after trying to run it. See if it's black or wet like it's getting too much fuel.

Man, that thing is clean! Does look funny with the little tires, though. 31x10.50R15 were optional on these, so they should fit without drama. That's what I'm running. Your speedometer will be a little out unless you want to try and track down the right cable drive gear to correct it. You may need different UCAs if you go past about 2", both for alignment and for ball joint angles. If it's strictly a roadfinder, you may get away with leaving the steering linkage alone, but it's not a strong design to begin with, and lifting them makes the geometry worse. There are a few ways around this. There's a Jeep spring a lot of people have trimmed and used in the rear (front springs for a V8 Grand Cherokee IIRC). I think there are (or at least were?) a couple of purpose-made options as well. Or you can get spring spacers. The torsion bars take time to settle, so adjust them a little at a time, drive it back and forth, and see how they settle out. They're easy to overshoot. I about Carolina squatted mine trying to level it. Also make sure the truck is well supported while you're at it, IIRC someone on here (or was it the FB page?) stripped the adjuster and damn near dropped his truck on himself. I adjusted mine with the truck on stands and the wheels off the ground because ain't nobody got time for that.

Yeah, I think we all knew that was a lie. I was looking for something completely unrelated today and discovered that not only does Ali Express sell suspiciously cheap transfer case chains for these, they actually have pictures of them--and measurements! The chain they list as 33152-33G01, what my research above says is the "early" chain, is listed at 47mm (presumably across the ends of the pins). The picture shows it measured across the outer plates at just under 45mm wide (around 1-3/4"). The chain they list as 33152-30C00, the "late" chain, doesn't have a listed width, but the calipers in the picture show just over 32mm wide (around 1-1/4"). The listing says it also replaces 33152-G2301, which they claim fits all Terranos; Amayama says that PN fits only the four-pot Terranos and Terrano IIs. Construction appears similar between the two, but the -33G01 has 29 layers, and what looks like springs down one edge, while the -30C00 has 21 layers, and springs down the middle. One of the posts I linked above shows a supposed WD21 box, with the springs down the middle, but given it's on a Navara forum, I suspect it's a -G2301 chain from a four-pot truck. Other pictures I've found of the -33G01 are too grainy to say for sure that they have springs down the side, but I sure don't see springs in the middle. Anyway--if we trust the pictures in the listings on Ali Express (), the difference is indeed about half an inch of width. So there we have it--proof (?) of an answer that already existed, to a question that nobody else was asking, six years later.

Got your PM. I had a poke at my spare one. Haven't quite figured out how the assembly comes off the column, but I noticed something about the contacts. Mine are sticking out at least twice as far as yours--but they're sprung, and when I pushed on them, one of them stayed down. Probably bound up by old grease and dirt. That dried peanut butter looking schmoo on yours is probably what's left of the grease, and in similar condition to what remains around the contacts. Shoot a little WD40 on those, give them a wiggle, maybe pull on them gently with pliers--see if they're actually worn all the way down, or if they're just shy. Looks like there's a cover screwed on behind the plungers. I haven't taken mine off, but I suspect that's what you'll need to do to clean out the bores and get them freed up properly if they are just gummed up.

Yeah, if it hasn't been off in a while, you'll probably need a puller. I think I used a harmonic balancer puller on mine. You could probably cobble something together from nuts and bolts and a piece of square tubing that would do the job. Make sure you've got the nut threaded back on a few turns if you're gonna keep yanking it by hand, or you'll end up wearing the wheel as a hockey mask. Oh, and mark the wheel and shaft with a paint pen if you haven't so it's easier to line it all back up when you're done. My parts car is also a '95, so if the innards are truly borked, let me know and I'll see if I've got better ones.

I was able to get the horn working on my '95 just by cleaning up the contacts. If they're actually wore slap out, though, you may have to get creative. I don't think they're available on their own. What year is yours? I've got a round-dash column sitting in my parts car, and AFAIK the contacts are still good.

Good testing so far! You've tested everything about the injector except whether it's actually spraying fuel. It's electrically OK, and it's trying to work, but I suspect the actual spray nozzle at the tip is clogged up. If it was spraying, I would expect a wet plug (and exhaust that smelled like it was running pig rich, and possibly fuel in the oil as well). Unfortunately I can't think of a way to confirm this that doesn't involve taking the intake apart (or isn't stupid/more work than doing it properly). Might be worth checking for a vacuum leak before tearing it down. I think someone here had a leak from the gasket between the injector and the intake manifold after they'd had the intake apart. It wouldn't hurt to shoot some carb cleaner around there to check, but if you haven't been in there recently, I would be surprised if it had failed on its own. Did the old #4 spark plug look any different from the rest? Passing the compression test tells me the valves are closing. I guess if a valve wasn't opening, or if a port was blocked up with something, it could make compression but not run. But it would take a hell of a chunk of carbon to block up the intake port (unless the engine ate a rag or something), and from what I've read, the cam lobes in these are made from coffin nails and woodpecker lips. And, again, if it was spraying fuel, but not burning it, I would expect a wet plug. I would remove the injectors and check/clean them on the bench. Do your valve cover gaskets at the same time if you haven't--this will also give you a chance to confirm that the valvetrain is OK, though again I doubt that'll be the issue.

I got lucky with mine, came right off, but I've read they like to rust solid. Looks like some folks manage to fit a jaw puller in there somehow, some drill/tap the sprocket to use a steering wheel puller, and some straight up destroy the old sprocket to get it off and replace it with a new one. I'd be temped to get some heat on it, but that's probably a bad idea with the oil pump right behind it.

Cool to see it's still around! Man that's a lot of speakers.

I sprayed the caps a lot more than a year ago, and they still look okay. Agreed though that the two-part paint is better, especially for the actual wheels.

The only time I've seen a dipstick tube play silly buggers with the reading was on the transmission, when I had just filled the transmission through that same tube, and the inside was still coated. Takes a while for the oil to run down so it's not wiping off on the stick and screwing up the reading. I don't know why there'd be oil up inside the dipstick tube otherwise, or why the dipstick would work differently on a modern VQ vs yours. I suspect the dealer's erring on the high side. If I was running 0W20 in a VQ, I might do the same. Doesn't sound like it's hurting anything. But I don't know crap about the R52.