Slartibartfast

I don't see why not.

El archivo en mi correo previo tiene todavía funciona. No lo tengo en Español, pero si tiene el sistema de refrigeración (Engine Lubrication & Cooling Systems). Mi Español no es bueno, espero que esto no sea una tontería.

Definitely sounds like your alt is dead. Whether it took the other stuff with it, I have no idea. The regulator is internal. I've never had one fail wide open, or heard of it--I've heard of it happening on an older American pickup, and blowing the bulbs in the dash, but, yeah, no idea what it would do on one of these. I guess if it lost a diode, it might've pumped pulsed DC or even AC into the system, which some components might not have appreciated. Not sure how that would've killed a fuse link, though. FWIW, the 90A alt from a SOHC Maxima bolts right up (just swap the pulley), and when I bought mine, it was actually cheaper than the stock 70A alt. (Yours may have a 60A alt, if it's original.) Same wiring, same belt. I should probably put a thicker charge wire on it one of these days, but so far I've had no trouble with it. The front wiper amp is the brown box hanging off the wiper motor. Low voltage might well explain it not changing speeds, but, yeah, not stopping sounds like a similar fault to your rear amp. I imagine their innards are very similar. Stands to reason whatever killed the rear one, killed the front one too, whether it was the alternator or not. Hopefully the alt was the problem, and a new one makes it stop generating gremlins!

I imagine this is a job NY shops do a lot. But if you're comfortable bending and flaring lines, I imagine you could pull it off at home as well. Either way, good thinking getting on it before one of the brake lines lets go!

Mice nested in the hood insulation in both of mine, so I just tore it out, with no regard for the push clips or the I-sure-hope-this-isn't-asbestos panels. I would be surprised if the clips came out in good enough shape to reuse--and I'm pretty sure they don't unscrew. I would just cut them rather than risk messing up the hood insulation panel trying to pull them out in one piece. I don't know the hole size offhand, but I'm sure there's a standard push clip that'll work in their place if the originals aren't available. Or, yeah, try it on your bad one first, see if they come out easier than I remember. Yep, just the four nuts holding the bearing to the axle tube, and then the axle should slide out. The service manual shows a slide hammer, but I didn't need it for mine. I would bring one just in case. If you're doing a drum to disk swap, the master cylinder is also different (different prop valve), and the drum rear end has a thrust block between the axle shafts that the disk does not, which I assume will need to come out. Might be easier to grab the whole axle if you're swapping. You do not need to pull out the interior or mess with the nut plates if you're just after the carrier. You only need to remove the bolts holding the hinges on. I would open the carrier, remove the rear-facing bolts, close and latch it, remove the side facing bolts, then unlatch and lift the carrier off the donor, so you're not trying to hold it up and turn bolts at the same time.

What in the AI spam hell?

Sounds like you've got plenty to keep you busy! Where are you seeing that P1140 means water in the fuel? I've never heard of a moisture sensor in a gasoline fuel system. Sounds more like both cam sensors (or their wiring) are out. Try shooting some silicone spray in the rear lock, and work it around. Crap gets in there and they get cranky. Wiggle it, flush it, wiggle it some more. Might get lucky. Or take the inside trim off and see if it's actually the lock that's bound up. My door locks worked a whole lot better after I lubed the linkage they're connected to.

I would keep your old transfer unless you know there's something wrong with it. The later transfer will work if needed, but you may need to swap the lockout plate and shift linkage to make it work right. There's a difference in chain design between early/late transfers, but I have not seen evidence that one is actually stronger than the other.

The ECU does not have a kill function, and the alarm only kills power to the starter, so if it's cranking, it's not that. I have run codes on mine with the engine running and never had an issue, so I doubt it's the position of the pot that's got it upset. IIRC there's just a slot cut in the end of the pot's shaft. So if that's snapped, then there's a chunk of metal knocking around inside the computer, which is not a good thing. If the other side is still there, and you can turn it with pliers, it may be good enough to work with, once you get the loose chunk out of there. If not, you may be able to track down a replacement for the pot itself by dimensions and resistance and solder it in. It may even be marked. Given the symptoms in your other thread, it sounds like you've got no/inadequate fuel pressure. Get that chunk of metal out of the computer before it shorts something, then chase the fuel system. Hopefully the new relay does it. If not, I would unplug the pump and put power to it directly (lawnmower battery or something), and see if that gets it running. If it does, chase the wiring. If it doesn't, chase the pump.

Good, sounds like you know what you're working with. Too bad the computer has no idea what's up, but yeah, that's pretty typical for old EFI. There are a few designs on Youtube for homemade smoke machines. The cheapest I've seen was a hand-operated transfer pump with a gas station cigar stuck in the intake. The ones I've been looking at have a can or a jar with baby oil, a soldering iron, and a low-pressure air feed, which AFAIK is pretty close to how the proper ones work. Without a smoke machine, you can hold a length of hose to your ear and poke the other end around the running engine, and maybe home on the noise that way. You can also shoot carb cleaner at where you think the leak is and see if the idle picks up from the engine sucking in fuel, but I've never had much luck with that method.

I haven't worked with the TBI, but I've read that they tend to run poorly when the air cleaner is off. I guess it smooths airflow over the MAF or something. Wouldn't explain the RPM dropping at the car wash, but if you're testing it with the air cleaner off, throw it on and see if it clears up any. Idling low at the car wash makes me suspect something got wet. If it was shaky, I'd be looking at ignition components (wires/cap/rotor). Otherwise, could be electrical. IMO your best bet at this point would be hooking it up to a smoke machine. That should find your vacuum leak pretty quick. Could be a rolled O ring, throttle shaft seals (the instructions you linked say not to dunk those in cleaner, not sure why not), something along those lines. I would also check that the brake booster, PCV, and EGR (if that's still around) are in good shape, in case it's not the throttle body that's acting up. I don't have a source for the '88 service manual, but on the off chance you haven't found it already, here's the '89. EF&EC section might help you track it down, or at least understand how the system is supposed to work, which might point you in the right direction. '87 had a different code table and some other weirdness, so if yours is closer to '87 than '89, and the codes you pull don't make sense (44 was "no malfunction" on the '87 ECU, replaced by 55 on later years), let me know and I'll dig out my paper copy of the '87.

Looks like around '97-'03 for the Fronty, '99-'04 for the X. If it's got the 3.3, that's the one you're after. If it's got the supercharged 3.3, that one's supposed to be built a little tougher, but IIRC the torque converter and flexplate are different from the non-super'd ones, so make sure you get those with it. Again, it may be possible to make the 2WD variant work, but I'd expect it to turn into a bit of a science project.

Maybe? I imagine you'd have to open up both transmissions and swap over the output shaft, but I haven't had either unit apart myself. The usual replacement is a first-gen Xterra or Frontier trans. The design was revised a little and is supposed to be better/stronger than the original WD21 trans. No idea how either version compares to the 300ZX trans.

If it's like the switch in my WD21, the hood switch is open (wires not joined) when the hood is shut, closed (wires joined) when open. I wired mine to an under-hood light when I deleted the alarm.

For the door, this thread or this one might help you get it open. Looks like it might just need a little lube in the right spot. Get that sorted out, make sure the locks work, then see if the alarm's still upset. Might just be confused if it thinks the door's half closed or something, though I wouldn't expect that to explain the no-start. Unfortunately I don't think the security system on the R50s is removable. Built into the smart entry whatsit IIRC.

Well that ain't good. I don't know which computers will work, sorry.

Figures it can't be that easy! Have you looked at universal/hot rod/racecar parts? I see Summit and Speedway (and I assume others) let you search for radiators by dimensions and inlet/outlet placement. I imagine most of their "universal" options are based on stock rads that you've already ruled out, and a lot of what I'm seeing there is stupid expensive, but they might give you a lead if nothing else. The custom shroud may be the way to go. This guy made a pretty decent-looking fiberglass fan shroud from a T-shirt stretched over some plywood, and the e-fan shrouds I've seen look like they'd be pretty simple to fab from sheet metal.

Looks hell for stout! If you don't find a better candidate than the CTSV rad, something like this (rad neck that splices into the upper hose) would let you run it without the expansion tank.

While you're replacing the MAF, have a good look at the rubber tube connecting it to the throttle body. If that cracks, the engine gets air that the MAF doesn't know about.

That is bizarre. I had a look at harmonic balancers on Rockauto, and the ones that showed the timing marks appeared to show them in the same place as the picture on the right. Same story for Quest, Fronty, and X balancers. NPD pulls up the same PN for a '96 as for an '01. I thought maybe the Elgrand (the only other rig with a VG33 AFAIK) had its timing pointer off to the side, but Partsouq lists the same balancer for that application. Partsouq has a picture of that part, which appears to match the balancer from the video. I would assume the manufacturer of your new one screwed up, but then why was the old one the same? Unless it had been previously replaced, with the same defective (?) product, that doesn't make a whole lot of sense. If both had slipped, I would not expect them to have slipped the same amount. If everything is correct inside the timing cover, then IMO you've got the right idea making your own marks on the balancer. Just make sure you get them in the right place. There are a few videos on Youtube for doing this on hotrods, including working out the distance between the degree marks.

I don't see why you would. Might make it easier to get the rotor lined up if you take it off to clean it up while you're in there.

Sounds like something is wrong with the left front caliper. I would check that a pad hasn't fallen out or something. Might check the rubber line too. No idea on the boosters, we don't have either of those in the US.

OBDII vehicles can take a while to decide they're happy with everything after having the codes cleared. I guess some codes take a while to re-set, so they wait until they're sure the sensor is good/system is working before showing as ready. (Otherwise you could just clear codes and go in before it coded again.) The question is what it's waiting for. Might just be a number of drive cycles, but I don't know that. The EC section of the service manual (free download from Nicoclub) might explain what it wants to see. My cheap OBDII scanner shows whether the monitors have passed or whether it's still waiting on some. Probably worth picking up one of those so you know before you take it in.

I had my headlights fail while driving once. Lost high and low, both sides, while driving. Not what you want. If the plugs are that bad, I'd be a bit leery of the bulbs--if they can't get a 9004 plug right, what else did they screw up? If you're sure they're alright, I'd cut the plugs off a cheap set of regular bulbs that do fit and hard wire them to the garbage plugs. Is the light output worth the trouble?

Which part of the harness is bad? Looks like there are a bunch of different harnesses. Not many are listed as available on NPD, but the part numbers may help you track them down elsewhere.