Slartibartfast

A press would make it easier, but you could probably make due with a bench vise. Use a socket to drive the bearing, and make sure you're putting force into the race you're trying to move, not through the bearing balls. (If you're pressing the OD into the pulley, press on the outer race, not the inner.) I'll bet the center spacer and dust shield whatsit would pop out of the old bearing and into the new one. I doubt you'd even need a press for that, should just slip out if it's like other idlers I've messed with.

The trans will work, but the R50 is a whole different platform, so I would be surprised if much other than the transmission fits yours without a lot of screwing around. The R50 manual is improved over the WD21 manual (they fixed the oiling issue that takes out countershaft bearings on the earlier ones), so it's a good choice of gearbox, but you'll need a WD21 or D21 donor for the pedal box and hydraulics and whatnot. Make sure you get the right oil! GL-5 rated oil eats the synchros in these, you need GL-4.

The trucks that came with carriers have reinforcement/nut plates inside the fender. I don't think the non-carrier trucks generally have the brackets, but I don't know for sure that yours doesn't. Stick your hand up in there and see. It is possible to retrofit a carrier to a non-carrier truck. It has been done. The tricky bit is those reinforcement brackets. I pulled the brackets out of my parts car for @vzcraig70 a couple years ago, and found out why ninetyfivehatch cut his down to fit. They were clearly installed before the quarter panel went on, which is why it takes a little butchery to put them in after the fact. Hawairish used rivnuts to mount the carrier on his R50. Seemed to work alright for him, but after seeing NissanBoston's pictures on the last page of that thread, I don't think I would trust rivnuts alone.

+1 for putting it on the charger for a while. I would also check that the battery terminals are clean and tight. If it still cranks slowly after charging, the battery itself could be damaged. Going dead flat is hard on batteries, and so is sitting around while dead flat. Hopefully yours bounces back.

Ah, you kept the VG33 accessories. That explains it. If it's just the bearing that's clapped, you may be able to rebuild the old one.

What are you looking for? The WD21 power steering belt does not have an idler pulley. That looks like the aircon belt tensioner for a VQ R50, or at least there's an SKP part listed for that on Rockauto that looks nearly identical.

There was one when I did it! That's the thread I can't find. I did however save a screenshot of the diagram. Credit to whoever worked it out, IIRC a few of the Infamous guys contributed to that thread (looks like Kurruppt posted this picture). If anyone with better google-fu than me finds the actual thread, let me know! I couldn't find crap. I remember I put mine together and found that both LEDs were backwards, but I don't remember if that was my mistake or if the diagram had them backwards. Something to check with it hay-wired before it's all soldered up. And obviously be careful poking around in connectors that go straight to the computer--I don't know what would pop if something shorted at the check connector, but I doubt it would be easy to replace. I didn't have a plug end for the check connector, so I got some small-ish male spade connectors, trimmed them down slightly to fit, and put a dab of hot glue on each to hold them in place. There is almost certainly a more elegant solution, but this has held up, it's reversible, and it did not require hacking the harness. If I did it again, I might consider gutting one of those Snap-On adapters, or just buying a connector and pins (if not the whole assembly) from KivPanther. I mounted mine through the blanking plate for the hardbody under-dash e-brake. It's out of the way, it's removable, and I can see it from the driver's seat.

Oof. Yeah, that's crunchy. Too bad it chewed up the housing. Any luck tracking down a 3rd?

Sounds like a hell of a project! How did you find a QD32 in the US? The closest I've heard of to that was Ekim Naelcm on the FB page making a VQ R50 auto trans work with a TD27 in a WD21. He swapped the bellhousing and had a custom torque converter built to join the two, though he thought the VG33ER flexplate and converter might've worked instead. No idea if the TD and QD share a bellhousing.

Agreed that it's likely a fuel issue. Twelve-year-old gas could well have seized up the fuel pump. Do you hear a brief whir from the back of the truck when you turn the ignition on? If the tank's not full of goo/corroded to hell, might be worth throwing a pump and a fuel filter at it to see if it'll come around. But yeah, good chance you'd be into the injectors next. I hear you on not having the time/expertise. (And having cleared out some rancid fuel tanks, I can tell you that you're not missing a good time there.) Non-running will limit buyers, as I imagine will 2WD, though maybe less so down south. Might be worth asking around with any minitrucker groups in your area. Hopefully it turns into a good deal for somebody. That was how I got my '93. Sold cheap, unknown engine trouble. Turned out a rat had nested in the air filter box, and its nest was choking the engine. Good luck!

You don't need a scanner to pull codes from one of these. There's a writeup here for pulling codes, or you can find a more in-depth version (including troubleshooting info) in the EF&EC section of the factory service manual, free download from Nicoclub. It's not particularly difficult, though it would be easier if the computer wasn't under the passenger's front seat. If you really want a scanner, you may have some trouble tracking one down. There is a connector under the dash, but it's not OBDII, and it's not Nissan's own Consult system. Looks like Snap On made an adapter for their Modis system, if you happen to have one of those kicking around. AFAIK the original scan tool was just a box with a button and two blinky lights--basically the same interface that's on the back of the computer, except it's in your hand instead of under the seat. I don't think I've ever seen one, though, unless you count a bad scan of a grainy picture from a service manual for a 200SX. This guy on Infamous Nissan is selling a homebrew version of the blinky lights box. Another thread on that site (which I can't find now for some reason) shows the wiring schematic for it. I built my own from that thread, and mounted the button and the lights through a blanking plate on the dash. Again, it gives the same info as the lights on the back of the computer--it's just easier to get to. But yeah, if you just want to see why the money light is on, click that first link and go from there.

Well there's something I didn't know existed!

The WD21 (Pathfinder/Terrano) and D21 (Hardbody/first-gen Navara) tanks are very different. The WD21 tank is behind the axle, and the D21 tank is between the driveshaft and the frame rail. There's been talk of adding a D21 tank to a WD21 as a second tank, though I haven't heard of anyone actually trying it. Even the smaller D21 tank (looks like they're either 15 or 21 gallons, depending on wheelbase) would add a fair whack of fuel capacity, and might be easier to make room for than the big chungus extended model that you're looking at.

There's a part number for a stud to mount a steering stabilizer, so I imagine some of them came with one. I added one to mine, but, yeah, I can't really tell it's there. To be fair, I used the cheapest stabilizer I could find (>$20 IIRC, probably some Monroe crap), so your mileage may vary with a better unit. I'm also running a Grassroots centerlink, which has enough drag to do a fair bit of stabilizing on its own. The clunk and the pull are likely related. +1 for checking the UCAs. The camber and caster are adjusted with U-shaped shims, and if the bolts back out, the shims fall out, and then your alignment goes full stance nation. The squeal while turning is interesting. I doubt it's the pump--it shouldn't be able to tell which way you're turning. Might be a blocked passage or something in the box, but I haven't heard of one doing that, and it wouldn't explain why it only makes noise when you're moving. Maybe one of the wheel bearings is loose enough that the rotor is hitting the backing plate? Again, could be a shared cause with the clunk and the pull, depending on what's rubbing on what. Add bearings and brakes to your inspection list if they weren't there already. If nothing jumps out at you when you inspect the front end, run it without the power steering belt and see if the noise goes away. That should rule the hydraulic components in or out.

Sometimes it takes some digging to find good info on these. Good on you for doing the due diligence to make sure you're doing it properly. Nissanpartsdeal has factory parts and a pretty good lookup for them. For harder-to-find parts, try Amayama or Partsouq. For parts that don't need to be OE, I use Rockauto. Reliability will depend mostly on condition and maintenance. Mine's been pretty reliable despite 260k on the clock, but anything this old will have some age and wear-related issues sooner or later. Addressing the timing belt early was a good move. I would change (or at least check) the various fluids if that hasn't been done yet, check the brakes, check the front wheel bearings, look for play in the front end, do your strut rod bushings, all that kind of stuff. I'm guessing rust isn't a huge concern in Texas, but it wouldn't hurt to clean out the frame (they like to rust over the rear axle) and the floor pan under the rear seats. The exhaust Y pipe under the driver's feet tends to leak and rust out the floor, potentially setting fire to the carpet, so check on that. Also check for leaves behind your blower motor resistor. I glued a piece of metal screen over the HVAC intake to keep leaves and rodents (mostly rodents) out of my vents. I've done some minor reliability mods on mine, mostly to keep the slushbox alive and simplify the four-wheel-drive--things you don't have to worry about. You might look into relaying the headlights. Helps keep the switch alive, hopefully provides a little more power to the bulbs. Just make sure you use good parts for that! I used a cheap fuse holder on my first one, and it left the chat one night without warning.

Is the donor VG33 or VQ35? VG33 should be the same as what you have. VQ might be a bit of a science project. Based on what Ekim Naelcm posted about his swap, the VQ version takes a different torque converter. He had one made to fit his TD27, but said a VG33ER converter and flexplate might do the trick to mate one to a VG. I would link that post, but it was on Facebook, and I can't find a damn thing on that goldfish-brain dumpster fire of a website.

I'll bet this is related. They're not supposed to do that--I've only heard of them clattering if they're run with straight oil (without the special LSD goo). I'm still not sure how it would've failed there, but I'm gonna guess there's a connection between the clutches having a little stick/slip party and the guide that couples the clutches to the housing letting go.

The tapers for the tie rod ends and pitman arm changed 8/92 for some reason. I found out the fun way, with an early '92 knuckle half installed on my '93 and a tie rod that just would not go in. I haven't tried the kits. I bought the various front end joints for mine off Rockauto, mostly 555 if I remember right (I think some of it was sold as Beck/Arnley, but the actual parts were 555). Ball joints, tie rods, centerlink, idler. Turned out most of the slop that I was chasing was in the steering box. I tried to adjust it, screwed it up, replaced with a reman that turned out to be even sloppier (and the pitman shaft seal leaks just enough to piss me off). If you've chasing play or you've got a clunk in the steering, have someone saw the wheel back and forth while you crawl under the front and see what's got play in it. Sway bar links/bushings can also clunk pretty bad. Put a dab of grease on the steering stops while you're under there. Those make haunted house noises at full lock if they're dry. I think they were supposed to have plastic caps on them at one point. +1 for doing the strut rod bushings, though. Mine looked fine until I took them apart. I welded bearing cups to the frame on mine in place of the sheet metal bushing cups that were broken off.

The service manual says 3.6 liters, and the TSB didn't change it for the 2WD. So AFAIK, that is the correct capacity. If it takes something in that ballpark before it starts coming back out, I'd call that good. The service manual is much more useful than the owner's manual. You can get the '90 manual from Cardiagn.com if yours is square-dash, or the '94/'95 from Nicoclub if it's round-dash.

The bolt pattern changed in '89, so you want '90-'95. I thought auto was almost always 4.6, but it turns out it's not that simple. I checked the '90 (PD-142) and '95 (PD-98) manuals. Same chart in both. VG/manual is always 4.3. VG/auto/SE trim is always 4.6. VG/Auto/not-SE can be either, depending on original tire size. (I assume larger tires = deeper gears, but the chart doesn't come out and say that.) So if that auto/small tires donor you're looking at isn't an SE, you might be onto a winner. I would still want to see the build plate and/or check turns by hand to confirm. And yeah, ideally the donor should have the same brakes, or you'll have to open it up. And if you've gotta open the diff, and your old one is otherwise present and correct, might as well open that one and replace those guides.

I had assumed so, because they're both labelled FS5R30A--but having looked at it closer, nope, that's a different critter. Different ratios, different fluid capacity. The 2WD R50 manual transmission appears to be the same one as the 2WD D21 pickup--same ratios, same oil capacity. The 4WD D21 pickup and 2WD or 4WD WD21 Pathfinder share a different set of ratios, and (until the TSB revised it for the 4WD models) the same oil capacity. The 4WD R50 uses the same ratios as the 2WD R50 and D21, but with the revised oil capacity (5.1l) of the 4WD WD21 box--I'm assuming it's the gears from one, in the case of the other. So ignore what I said about the R50 trans, sounds like it's too different from yours to draw conclusions from.

Well spotted! What would make it fail like that? Doesn't seem like that tab should have much force on it--it's just there to stop the guide from walking out, right?

The TSB is for the 4x4 only. For the 2WD transmission, the '95 WD21 service manual specs 7-5/8 US pints (3.6L). The manual trans fluid level was fixed in '96, so I checked the '97 R50 service manual to see if the 2WD fluid level changed too. It did--but it went down, to 5-1/8 pints, 2.4l. If they were seeing failures like they had with the 4WD transmissions, I assume they would've raised the capacity. I would stick with the 3.6l spec in the WD21 manual. I have not heard of the 2WD transmissions acting up like the 4WD ones do, though to be fair we don't get many of them around here. Make sure you get the right oil! The synchros want GL-4. GL-5 turns them to glitter.

The first thing I would do is make sure that the shifter goes through its full range of motion (from 2H to 4L and back again). I've heard of similar issues where people have swapped in a transfer from a different platform (made for a different floor pan) or mixed and matched the linkage and the lockout plate. Either the shifter hits the floor, or the lockout stops the shifter in the wrong place. Given yours is all WD21 parts, and worked previously, I would guess something didn't go back together quite right (assuming you had that linkage apart?), so you're shifting from neutral to 4L when it looks like you're shifting from 2H to 4H. I can take a picture of the linkage on mine for reference if that would help. I've also heard of people having the console apart, moving the shifter to get it out of the way, and being shocked to find no drive afterwards--because they forgot they put it in neutral. I may have done this myself at some point. If the transfer is in neutral, putting the auto trans in park (or leaving a manual in gear in gear) will not hold the truck. This is both a way to rule out the transmission, and something to watch out for if you're working on uneven ground--don't run yourself over with your own truck. I am of course assuming that your rear driveshaft isn't sitting in the corner laughing at you.

I have never cracked an RE4R01A open, much less rebuilt one. But I've seen enough questions about what's different between them that I figured it was about time I went down a service manual rabbit hole on this topic. The short version: VG and VQ RE4R01As are not the same. Even within each group, there are multiple variants shown. I have no idea which variant(s) the rebuild kits are meant to cover, but I would start by working out how many clutches yours has, and how many clutches the rebuild kit includes. The long version: The number of drive/driven clutches in each pack is laid out in the SDS at the end of the AT section of the service manual, so I looked at a few of those to compare them. Each manual shows multiple "codes" of transmission. The code is the last five digits of the part number for the transmission assembly. Go to NissanPartsDeal, punch in your VIN (or year/model/options), look up an automatic transmission assembly, and check the last five digits of its PN against the codes below. If it's not there, check the SDS in the '96 manual specifically, or see if the listing shows a superseded part number, and check the code for that one. I expected the first five digits to be the same for each part. They are not. Looking up which vehicle each code fits is therefore more difficult than it has any right to be, which is why I only bothered for the first four. '95 W/D21, codes 49X02 (31020-49X02, 2WD), 49X03 (31020-49X03, also 2WD), 45X60 (31020-45X60, VG/2WD), 45X72 (31000-45X72, VG/4WD) Reverse: 2 drive, 2 driven High: 4 drive and 4 driven for the first two codes, 5 and 5 for the last two Forward: 5 and 5 for the first two, 7 and 7 for the last two Overrun: 3 and 5 Low/reverse brake: 6 and 6 '97 R50, codes 44X82 or 44X20 Reverse: 2 drive, 2 driven High: 5 drive, 5 driven Forward: 6 drive, 6 driven Overrun: 3 drive, 5 driven Low/reverse brake: 7 drive, 7 driven '02 WD22, codes 43X64, 4EX01, 4EX06, 4EX67, 4EX68, 4FX07. First three are VG33E only, last three are VG33ER only. Reverse: 2 drive, 2 driven High: 5 drive for all, 5 driven VG33E, 6 driven VG33ER Forward: 6 and 6 on the first one, 7 and 7 on the second third and fourth, 8 and 8 on the last two Overrun: 3 and 5 Low/reverse brake: 7 and 7 VG33E, 8 and 8 VG33ER '03 R50, codes 4EX74, 4EX75, or 4EX76 Reverse: 3 drive, 3 driven. High: 5 drive, 6 driven. Forward: 4EX74 has 7 drive and 7 driven, the other two have 8 drive and 8 driven Overrun: 3 drive, 3 driven Low/reverse brake: 8 drive, 8 driven Again, I would look up what's in the kit vs what the code says you need. Hopefully they include enough bits to rebuild any of the variants over the years it's meant to fit. I don't know if anything else changed enough between the two to potentially cause you problems. Again, I'm not a transmission guy. If you're on the FB page, see if you can find what Elim Naelcm posted about his transmission. IIRC he Frankenstein'd a VQ R50 RE4R01A to work in his TD27-powered WD21, so if anybody would know, it's him. I haven't seen him around in a while, though. There was also a guy here who rebuilt a WD21 box, but I don't remember his name, and again I don't think I've seen it in quite a while. I also vaguely remember seeing an R50 trans rebuild on Youtube once--you might look that up and see if they mention which kit they used.