Slartibartfast

Yeah, that's pretty bad. That water pump bearing has ceased to be. I'm surprised it's still holding coolant! Unfortunately the water pump is behind the timing belt, so there's a fair bit of teardown required to get to it. It's doable in a driveway, provided nothing's seized/rusted solid, but you'll need a few tools, including a puller to get the balancer off, and the big socket (1-1/16 IIRC) for the crank bolt. And of course you'll need a new water pump. I'd order a bypass hose too--it may not survive removal, and should be replaced anyway. Do you know when the timing belt was done last? You'll have the belt off to get to the pump anyway, and if the pump died of old age, then the belt and its tensioner probably aren't far behind. (I recommend doing the cam and crank seals while you're in there--I skipped my crank seal and it started leaking as soon as I put it all back together.) I've got an '89 service manual on Dropbox, EM section covers the belt job. 5523's writeup is for a VG33, but may also help. I used his method for setting belt tension over the fussy way the service manual wanted me to do it. I would be tempted to try and macgyver something something to limp it home (maybe a 12v pump spliced into a rad hose, tstat/fan/belt removed, shorter belt for the alt, electric fan--basically abandon the pump in place), but I suspect it would end up being the same amount of work for something that might get you home. Good luck! Hopefully it doesn't wreck your whole weekend.

There's a Land Rover PN that's popular for the rear springs. For the front, you can get springs or spacers, but you can only go so far before you run into CV issues or strut top-out. Do some research on the strut tops, seems like a few people have had issues getting those set up right. I'm not an R50 guy and don't have specifics--do some digging around in old project threads and you should find all you need.

Might be worth sticking a fuel pressure gauge on it. See if the fuel pressure drops when the engine sputters out. I would also be curious to see if it'll fire on ether or carb cleaner when it won't fire on gas. If it runs on spray, but not otherwise, then you know you have a fuel issue. (You know for a fact that there's gas in it, right?) I'm not sure what connection the overheat would have to a fuel issue, though, or what the overheat would've damaged that would stall it out without some other obvious evidence of failure (losing coolant, white cloud out the tailpipe, schmoo under the oil cap, hellacious blow-by). Might also be worth pulling a spark plug after trying to run it. See if it's black or wet like it's getting too much fuel.

Man, that thing is clean! Does look funny with the little tires, though. 31x10.50R15 were optional on these, so they should fit without drama. That's what I'm running. Your speedometer will be a little out unless you want to try and track down the right cable drive gear to correct it. You may need different UCAs if you go past about 2", both for alignment and for ball joint angles. If it's strictly a roadfinder, you may get away with leaving the steering linkage alone, but it's not a strong design to begin with, and lifting them makes the geometry worse. There are a few ways around this. There's a Jeep spring a lot of people have trimmed and used in the rear (front springs for a V8 Grand Cherokee IIRC). I think there are (or at least were?) a couple of purpose-made options as well. Or you can get spring spacers. The torsion bars take time to settle, so adjust them a little at a time, drive it back and forth, and see how they settle out. They're easy to overshoot. I about Carolina squatted mine trying to level it. Also make sure the truck is well supported while you're at it, IIRC someone on here (or was it the FB page?) stripped the adjuster and damn near dropped his truck on himself. I adjusted mine with the truck on stands and the wheels off the ground because ain't nobody got time for that.

Yeah, I think we all knew that was a lie. I was looking for something completely unrelated today and discovered that not only does Ali Express sell suspiciously cheap transfer case chains for these, they actually have pictures of them--and measurements! The chain they list as 33152-33G01, what my research above says is the "early" chain, is listed at 47mm (presumably across the ends of the pins). The picture shows it measured across the outer plates at just under 45mm wide (around 1-3/4"). The chain they list as 33152-30C00, the "late" chain, doesn't have a listed width, but the calipers in the picture show just over 32mm wide (around 1-1/4"). The listing says it also replaces 33152-G2301, which they claim fits all Terranos; Amayama says that PN fits only the four-pot Terranos and Terrano IIs. Construction appears similar between the two, but the -33G01 has 29 layers, and what looks like springs down one edge, while the -30C00 has 21 layers, and springs down the middle. One of the posts I linked above shows a supposed WD21 box, with the springs down the middle, but given it's on a Navara forum, I suspect it's a -G2301 chain from a four-pot truck. Other pictures I've found of the -33G01 are too grainy to say for sure that they have springs down the side, but I sure don't see springs in the middle. Anyway--if we trust the pictures in the listings on Ali Express (), the difference is indeed about half an inch of width. So there we have it--proof (?) of an answer that already existed, to a question that nobody else was asking, six years later.

Got your PM. I had a poke at my spare one. Haven't quite figured out how the assembly comes off the column, but I noticed something about the contacts. Mine are sticking out at least twice as far as yours--but they're sprung, and when I pushed on them, one of them stayed down. Probably bound up by old grease and dirt. That dried peanut butter looking schmoo on yours is probably what's left of the grease, and in similar condition to what remains around the contacts. Shoot a little WD40 on those, give them a wiggle, maybe pull on them gently with pliers--see if they're actually worn all the way down, or if they're just shy. Looks like there's a cover screwed on behind the plungers. I haven't taken mine off, but I suspect that's what you'll need to do to clean out the bores and get them freed up properly if they are just gummed up.

Yeah, if it hasn't been off in a while, you'll probably need a puller. I think I used a harmonic balancer puller on mine. You could probably cobble something together from nuts and bolts and a piece of square tubing that would do the job. Make sure you've got the nut threaded back on a few turns if you're gonna keep yanking it by hand, or you'll end up wearing the wheel as a hockey mask. Oh, and mark the wheel and shaft with a paint pen if you haven't so it's easier to line it all back up when you're done. My parts car is also a '95, so if the innards are truly borked, let me know and I'll see if I've got better ones.

I was able to get the horn working on my '95 just by cleaning up the contacts. If they're actually wore slap out, though, you may have to get creative. I don't think they're available on their own. What year is yours? I've got a round-dash column sitting in my parts car, and AFAIK the contacts are still good.

Good testing so far! You've tested everything about the injector except whether it's actually spraying fuel. It's electrically OK, and it's trying to work, but I suspect the actual spray nozzle at the tip is clogged up. If it was spraying, I would expect a wet plug (and exhaust that smelled like it was running pig rich, and possibly fuel in the oil as well). Unfortunately I can't think of a way to confirm this that doesn't involve taking the intake apart (or isn't stupid/more work than doing it properly). Might be worth checking for a vacuum leak before tearing it down. I think someone here had a leak from the gasket between the injector and the intake manifold after they'd had the intake apart. It wouldn't hurt to shoot some carb cleaner around there to check, but if you haven't been in there recently, I would be surprised if it had failed on its own. Did the old #4 spark plug look any different from the rest? Passing the compression test tells me the valves are closing. I guess if a valve wasn't opening, or if a port was blocked up with something, it could make compression but not run. But it would take a hell of a chunk of carbon to block up the intake port (unless the engine ate a rag or something), and from what I've read, the cam lobes in these are made from coffin nails and woodpecker lips. And, again, if it was spraying fuel, but not burning it, I would expect a wet plug. I would remove the injectors and check/clean them on the bench. Do your valve cover gaskets at the same time if you haven't--this will also give you a chance to confirm that the valvetrain is OK, though again I doubt that'll be the issue.

I got lucky with mine, came right off, but I've read they like to rust solid. Looks like some folks manage to fit a jaw puller in there somehow, some drill/tap the sprocket to use a steering wheel puller, and some straight up destroy the old sprocket to get it off and replace it with a new one. I'd be temped to get some heat on it, but that's probably a bad idea with the oil pump right behind it.

Cool to see it's still around! Man that's a lot of speakers.

I sprayed the caps a lot more than a year ago, and they still look okay. Agreed though that the two-part paint is better, especially for the actual wheels.

The only time I've seen a dipstick tube play silly buggers with the reading was on the transmission, when I had just filled the transmission through that same tube, and the inside was still coated. Takes a while for the oil to run down so it's not wiping off on the stick and screwing up the reading. I don't know why there'd be oil up inside the dipstick tube otherwise, or why the dipstick would work differently on a modern VQ vs yours. I suspect the dealer's erring on the high side. If I was running 0W20 in a VQ, I might do the same. Doesn't sound like it's hurting anything. But I don't know crap about the R52.

Hopefully the new alt doesn't give you an excuse to upgrade for a while!

That looks pretty close. I think I used a generic "aluminum" spray paint on my center caps years ago, matched good enough for me (or looked better than the yellow plastic I was covering, anyway).

I don't see why not.

El archivo en mi correo previo tiene todavía funciona. No lo tengo en Español, pero si tiene el sistema de refrigeración (Engine Lubrication & Cooling Systems). Mi Español no es bueno, espero que esto no sea una tontería.

Definitely sounds like your alt is dead. Whether it took the other stuff with it, I have no idea. The regulator is internal. I've never had one fail wide open, or heard of it--I've heard of it happening on an older American pickup, and blowing the bulbs in the dash, but, yeah, no idea what it would do on one of these. I guess if it lost a diode, it might've pumped pulsed DC or even AC into the system, which some components might not have appreciated. Not sure how that would've killed a fuse link, though. FWIW, the 90A alt from a SOHC Maxima bolts right up (just swap the pulley), and when I bought mine, it was actually cheaper than the stock 70A alt. (Yours may have a 60A alt, if it's original.) Same wiring, same belt. I should probably put a thicker charge wire on it one of these days, but so far I've had no trouble with it. The front wiper amp is the brown box hanging off the wiper motor. Low voltage might well explain it not changing speeds, but, yeah, not stopping sounds like a similar fault to your rear amp. I imagine their innards are very similar. Stands to reason whatever killed the rear one, killed the front one too, whether it was the alternator or not. Hopefully the alt was the problem, and a new one makes it stop generating gremlins!

I imagine this is a job NY shops do a lot. But if you're comfortable bending and flaring lines, I imagine you could pull it off at home as well. Either way, good thinking getting on it before one of the brake lines lets go!

Mice nested in the hood insulation in both of mine, so I just tore it out, with no regard for the push clips or the I-sure-hope-this-isn't-asbestos panels. I would be surprised if the clips came out in good enough shape to reuse--and I'm pretty sure they don't unscrew. I would just cut them rather than risk messing up the hood insulation panel trying to pull them out in one piece. I don't know the hole size offhand, but I'm sure there's a standard push clip that'll work in their place if the originals aren't available. Or, yeah, try it on your bad one first, see if they come out easier than I remember. Yep, just the four nuts holding the bearing to the axle tube, and then the axle should slide out. The service manual shows a slide hammer, but I didn't need it for mine. I would bring one just in case. If you're doing a drum to disk swap, the master cylinder is also different (different prop valve), and the drum rear end has a thrust block between the axle shafts that the disk does not, which I assume will need to come out. Might be easier to grab the whole axle if you're swapping. You do not need to pull out the interior or mess with the nut plates if you're just after the carrier. You only need to remove the bolts holding the hinges on. I would open the carrier, remove the rear-facing bolts, close and latch it, remove the side facing bolts, then unlatch and lift the carrier off the donor, so you're not trying to hold it up and turn bolts at the same time.

What in the AI spam hell?

Sounds like you've got plenty to keep you busy! Where are you seeing that P1140 means water in the fuel? I've never heard of a moisture sensor in a gasoline fuel system. Sounds more like both cam sensors (or their wiring) are out. Try shooting some silicone spray in the rear lock, and work it around. Crap gets in there and they get cranky. Wiggle it, flush it, wiggle it some more. Might get lucky. Or take the inside trim off and see if it's actually the lock that's bound up. My door locks worked a whole lot better after I lubed the linkage they're connected to.

I would keep your old transfer unless you know there's something wrong with it. The later transfer will work if needed, but you may need to swap the lockout plate and shift linkage to make it work right. There's a difference in chain design between early/late transfers, but I have not seen evidence that one is actually stronger than the other.

The ECU does not have a kill function, and the alarm only kills power to the starter, so if it's cranking, it's not that. I have run codes on mine with the engine running and never had an issue, so I doubt it's the position of the pot that's got it upset. IIRC there's just a slot cut in the end of the pot's shaft. So if that's snapped, then there's a chunk of metal knocking around inside the computer, which is not a good thing. If the other side is still there, and you can turn it with pliers, it may be good enough to work with, once you get the loose chunk out of there. If not, you may be able to track down a replacement for the pot itself by dimensions and resistance and solder it in. It may even be marked. Given the symptoms in your other thread, it sounds like you've got no/inadequate fuel pressure. Get that chunk of metal out of the computer before it shorts something, then chase the fuel system. Hopefully the new relay does it. If not, I would unplug the pump and put power to it directly (lawnmower battery or something), and see if that gets it running. If it does, chase the wiring. If it doesn't, chase the pump.

Good, sounds like you know what you're working with. Too bad the computer has no idea what's up, but yeah, that's pretty typical for old EFI. There are a few designs on Youtube for homemade smoke machines. The cheapest I've seen was a hand-operated transfer pump with a gas station cigar stuck in the intake. The ones I've been looking at have a can or a jar with baby oil, a soldering iron, and a low-pressure air feed, which AFAIK is pretty close to how the proper ones work. Without a smoke machine, you can hold a length of hose to your ear and poke the other end around the running engine, and maybe home on the noise that way. You can also shoot carb cleaner at where you think the leak is and see if the idle picks up from the engine sucking in fuel, but I've never had much luck with that method.