Formerly_94PathyMan

Well, since there are wires near the area, they were probably put in for those reasons, but as long as you have things tucked away and secured, no, I cannot truly think of a huge negative impact. Higher engine bay temps? Other than that, you got me.

probably, but just tell them the kit you got didn't come with it, they were shipping it, and you will come back when it is all finished...wink...wink....lol....that usually works with most mods on cars, or just tell them you want the front done, period. You are paying for goods, they won't turn you down, and if they do, go to midas...lol!

X2 on the bumpers, skid plates, and even the tire carrier idea wasn't bad. All that you have there I cannot afford/don't need due to the fact I am not a hardcore off-roader. Looks great for those guys though...your stuff always looks good though. I wish I had more disposable income to do some of the things you sell, but I don't so for now I am looking for the little stuff, like new bumpers. UCA's would be cool, but there are a few options out there, and it would be hard to compete with RC on those. Other than that, all looks great, but I myself cannot afford!

So that means you don't have clutch cancel...ok, I would start tracing wires, grounds, and even check out your switch. Just cuz it is new/newer, doesn't mean it was made of the highest quality...i.e. even quality control standards have room for human error. I would also check your starter. Mine does that too, auto though, except I get a click at the starter, and I know it isn't that, I just have a bad ground or connection somewhere. I took the starter out and played with it with a power probe and I couldn't get it to do it again, unless I made a poor connection. I would check out those things, and even try the relay, can't hurt there, cheap and even if it isn't it, then you have a spare lying around. Worse case scenario, bad starter, or even worse, the whole wiring is bad...PRAYS FOR WESTSLOPE THAT ISN'T THE CASE...had a buddy who had to replace his whole loom because some idiot did a horrible repair job on a vital section. Anywho, just check grounds, all of them, and the connectors at the positive cable up top. I had one of those go out too and same response on the car, but it would work sometimes. Hope that helps a little.

Just a tip from every time I trace wiring. Check wherever the wire is going to be near a pinch point, so anywhere where they might get pinched by screws, plastic pieces, etc. Other than that, you can just follow all the wires coming from that fuse block on back, PITA, PITA I tell ya, but it works. Get yourself a power probe and that can help too. If tracing the wiring there doesn't work, I don't know what else to tell ya. Hope that helps.

Yea those should work fine, IIRC. Make sure to take the pan off of them and change out the filter and possibly even have a trans shop flush them out. Even better yet, rebuild, but that is money. I would always recommend a trans cooler, I haven't got one on mine yet, but seeing as where the heat guage sits at on 100 degree days, yea I am going to get one. You can never go wrong with an aftermarket cooler...cooler temps mean longer trans life. Now as for the trannies, do they have the same features on the vehicle as yours...I.E. I know mine has a power button, and probably wouldn't put anything but that feature back in so that it is functional, don't know if it works that way or not, haven't really researched other auto's. Somebody on here will probably chime in. If you have any real questions, Precise, UNCCPathfinder, or 88Pathoffroad are some great guys, there are plenty more, sorry for not listin ya, I just went off top of my head, and they have answered a lot of questions I have had. They are great, so is everyone on here. So, as that is said, search it up, I am sure someone has asked this somewhere. And Welcome by the way!

Actually, if you look up the specs of 235's they are designed to fit 5-7 inch wide rims, and 31's are meant to fit 7-9 inch wide rims, so you can use legos for either. I have 235's on mine and they are seated up nicely, haven't had a leak in 2 years, but yea that is what was designed to go on those rims, legos being a 15X7 and the steelies being a 15X6. Yea you could also go with a 265/75R15 which is pretty close the the 31's and is still going to be a lower rolling resistance since it is a P metric tire...I.E...4 ply, all 31's, 32's, and 33 designated tire sizes are considered LT that are a 6 ply. The LTX is probably one of the best all season tires, either way you go, M/S or the X-radial A/T both are made from the same carcass just using different tread designs. Other than that, remember BFG is made by Michelin, so either way you go you get a great tire.

you either have 31x10.50r15 or 235/75r15's. Look at the sidewall, and try to match the tire you have. The driver's side door frame also tells you, and a plaque in the glove box as well. I would go with the 31's just cuz they look more trick than the 235's. And for a good, cheap, street tire, look into Kumho, Toyo, or even go for non name brand tires that have a warranty like Mastercraft's which are made by Cooper. Cooper is a good set also, but they run near 100 for 235's, where as you might be able to find some 31 mastercrafts for like 85 each. Try those, I sold those to a bunch of farmer's around where I lived and worked, and they all had pretty good luck with them, and if a farmer likes them, they are ok. Hercules where ok, but good luck finding them at any big name store. If you lived in Colorado I would recommend talking to Foree tires here, they can hook you up for cheap. Other than that, find smaller tire shops for no name tires, or just wait for a great sale at a bigger one.

twenty minutes my @$$...of course you have a lifted pathy with different parts and everything on it so sure I bet it is easy, mine wouldn't come out worth a damn, took me several hours, damn stock starters. It still had that little oil divert deal, which did no good the thing was still caked in oil from changes and poor work from past owners. But I guess twenty minutes might be plausible without all the mitigating factors I had. Oh and check your battery, sometimes they get a bad ground at the connection. Also it could be from your signal wire. Mine had been worn through right at the end, and it did the same thing. But like someone already said, check your grounds.

Well as I already know, you got this done, but just wanted to give a little idea. I don't know how great it is, but some of my buddies use some 1/4" thick square iron and a damn nice stick welder and make there own blocks. Just a thought, but yea, nice job, this might just help me in the near future.

put a lift on it and then you don't have to worry about rubbing so much with those, a little trimming may be in order also, but probably not.

My sentiments exactly.

Dude I doubt it is an LED unless it is aftermarket. If it is stock I think you just unscrew the sides and it is a small bulb inside that you can bring into any parts store and they can match it up.

Yea, that works fine, I used that in mine when I changed fluids out and it works like a champ.

By the way man, you can file for lost or stolen title, all you need is a bill of sale. And also, to make things easier, why not put the vehicle up on the forum as a parts truck and see if someone will buy it quickly. Worth a shot, also you can get that much out of it when you consider differentials, driveline, transfer case, transmission, engine, radiator, fan shroud, trim pieces, interior, etc... Also sorry to hear, keep your head up and hope you buy another pathy.

First off, the great thing about any vehicle, is you can mix and match manufacturers for certain things. If you are just getting the idler brace, or the whole CL, it won't matter too much as far as I know...someone chime in if I am wrong...and as for the AC or Calmini springs, I have heard from a few people the Calmini give a better ride but the AC are "ok"! JGC also work, depending on which ones you get, but I guess they are stiffer. I am waiting for mine and then I can give a personal observation. Other than that, search, I am sure it has been talked about.

It is like directly under the TB. When it is daylight here I will get a pic, till then look for any open spots right below the TB on the valve cover some where or something like that.

But I have never found an LE without the chrome, probably out there, just sayin. I figured it was an SE, hence me having that on my profile.

That doesn't look bad at all. I still want to find the factory light bar, but I would imagine it won't work with a 4 door. I love the way they look though, that visor too. Rock it man, who cares what anyone thinks, it is all you.

Well I have a Pathy, no badge work whatsoever, so I don't know what it is other than this, LSD, 4.6's, disc all around, auto, lego's, PW, PM, PS, PDL, Sunroof, Tire carrier, Adj. shocks, A/C, 4X4, leather seats, it had the upgraded stereo in it with the amp, but when I got it, it was no longer hooked up. So how do I know what it is since you could mix and match stuff. I do not have chrome trim, bumpers, mirrors, sidemarkers, etc. So does that mean it is an XE. I do not really care either way, but I love my truck. This thing has gotten me more places than I imagined it would, got it stuck once in snow, but you couldn't tell how deep it was and got high centered. Either way, what do you guys think it is?

Have you ever purchased a Haynes or Chilton FSM? Those things are step by step and as long as you mark where each bolt goes, and be really careful of sensors and wires, you are golden. I did a low end rebuild my first day on the job at the shop I used to work at, and I had only ever changed oil, plugs, belts, hoses, and brakes up to that point. They are really handy. I got like thirteen of them damn things, Honda, Toyota, Nissan, they all are sold at Napa. And to find it, just look it up online. My brother and I get it at a gas station in the boonies, they carry it for the Hot Rodders out there. I just google it though.

Get yourself some Redline oil, it is expensive, but man that stuff works. My brother was using it in his Eclipse turbo, and man the turbo stopped losing oil, the internals looked new, even the cylinder walls looked new. The valve cover looked new, that stuff rocks. It even cleaned the dipstick. You could see where the old oil had been burned on from age, and it looked new where the oil sat on the dipstick. It was an eye opener.

Have you checked your ignition timing in respect to the detonation sensor? It should be 15 degrees. I had that same problem after doing my T-belt, and that is all it was. Also, try resetting the system completely and see if the code comes back. On mine I had it coming on and then off and then on, and I cleared the codes and it has been three weeks now, no code. I would clear it first and see what you come up with. To clear it, get the engine running, turn the selector on the ECU under the pass. seat all the way to diagnostics, wait for both lights to flash four times then turn it all the way the other direction. That will clear all codes, then you can see what is truly wrong with your truck. Hope this helps

Nice ride, wish mine was already lifted...GRRRRR...LOL! Good things come to those who wait, but yours looks great bro!

Sometimes it could be as simple as a vacuum problem, or even the Valve went bad. Let me know if you need one, I got an extra one laying around now. To test a valve itself, get a vacuum pump and hook it to the valve, if you apply vacuum and it works then it is something else. I found out that the way the system works on these is the pressure from the EGR tube to the valve is pushed into a smaller pipe leading to the VVT valve, which tells the sensor when to activate the vacuum to get the EGR to open. If that tube is bad, broken, or clogged, that can happen. I would try taking that little tube off, 12mm line wrench, and blow through it, if you can move to the next thing, the VVT valve. I can't remember what the procedure is for that, but i can look it up for you if you need me to. Let me know if any of this works.