Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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Yes I would also like to know what flares those are... i need them!
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I've got about 15k on my 2wd setup and I wheel all the time. Run 33x12.5 tires and 2.5" torsion crank. My girls truck also runs the 2wd setup with moog problem solver joints and she has over 30k on her setup since her truck is her daily driver and it does some light wheeling as well. Bump steer is definitely reduced over stock and we have had nothing but increased life span of the joints. Works for me!
P.s. I run an oem steering stabilizer with the 2wd setup as well (I welded on the center link damper mount to the proper location) and my steering is just great, even with lift and big tires. No worn out joints or bent components to speak of yet. The inner tie rods are 2 mm thicker at the threads alone, and more so throughout the rest of the arm, so the arms are very strong. My 2c
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The marks on the belt must line up with the dimples on the cam/crank sprockets, or you risk improper mechanical engine timing. Are you making sure that the belt is facing the right direction? There's usually an arrow on the belt the should be pointing forwards towards the very front of your truck. Once you know the belt is oriented in the right direction, keep rotating it until you find the marks the are CLOSEST together. Those will be the two cam sprocket marks. I usually line up the two cam sprockets first and then place on the crank sprocket and tensioner last. Make sure the tensioner is rotated to the full loose position and start by placing the belt only half way on to the splines up top, the will give u bit more room to get it around the bottom areas.
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Put my timing belt on finished my cam install and painted my valve covers. I know they will just get dirty but i like stuff to look good when i install them.
Very nice job on the valve cover!!
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Good tip, my windows are slow to go up as well. I'll try that silicone lubricant, thanks.
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They are marked. L3 goes on the left side and R3 goes on the right side. They would be way off if they were backwards.
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Finally finished restoring some 15 x 7 alloy deep dish rims and had them swapped under the rig, replacing the current 15 x 10 steel rims that were mega low offset. What a difference! Truck drives so much better! Better handling, more power. The 15 or 16 hours of grinding out corroded aluminum was worth it! Must have dropped at least 30 or 40 lbs PER WHEEL. lol. I'm sure the steering and ball joints will last longer now as well.
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Trimmed fender flares, filled tires, cleaned up all the tools out of it and put them in a tool box in the trunk. Bled the brakes, put insurance on it, swapped my license plates from my car over and filled up the gas tank!
Off she goes on her maiden voyage!
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Pros... more engine bay space and less carbon buildup in the intake manifold (virtually none if you run a catch can on your Pcv valve as well).
Cons slightly higher combustion temperatures due to the lowering of inert gases in the combustion air charge and maybe a slight decrease in fuel consumption due to a small amount of fuel being sent through the engine to re burn.
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Pulled the rear lift springs out of my old pathy and just about finished cleaning up the last rim and getting it ready for paint. I think I'm going with duplicolour graphite paint (looks like gunmetal with lots of metal flake) and a duplicolour clear coat after. Shedding 30-40 lbs of weight per wheel is going to help towing the z31 a lot :|
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It's easy to do in your driveway. Just have someone sit and hold the steering wheel perfectly centered while you adjust the tie rods (I use the string method, but there are a few). After swapping pitman arms/switching to 2wd steering, you get good at re centering things
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Installed a Reese hidden hitch and put the rear bumper back on. Truck is almost ready for towing duty. Gotta bring the new 88 300zx turbo 2+2 home so we can get started on it!
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Canadian tire had a 20x10 foot heavy duty steel frame car tent on sale for half off, definitely picked it up. Fully sided with a rigid rear wall and a zip up front door. Will finally have a nice warm and dry place to work on the vehicles in the winter. Should be able to rig up some shelving and a heater in there as well.
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I personally am very happy with my factory rear locker. I have tested engagement and it is nearly instant lock up as soon as one tire starts to spin. Both rear tires engage as soon as traction is needed but has no adverse effect on driving in city ice and snow streets either
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You will be leaving fuel mileage on the table by using such an aggressive tread pattern. If you want the best mileage possible and you just use the pathy on the street to tow then I would go for a more street oriented tire.
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I had no problem driving and towing in 4wd with my pathy when I first got it. Had 28.8" first gen geolanders and open front and rear diff .Maybe you just need new tires?
Although my new pathy is lsd rear and soon to be lsd front
stock drive ability with true 4wd -
Finally got the pathy all back together after all the work. Just need to fill the coolant and bleed the brakes and she is all done (well, she will probably never be truly done, but road worthy again nonetheless).
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Gotta drive it in the power band if you want to get decent mileage!
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Got the alternator and rad back in. Also replaced the brake caliper bleeders with russel speed bleeders. No more messing around with bleeding brakes! Just gotta trim and fit the trans cooler lines, put the fan and shroud back in and bleed the brakes/coolant system.
Just a couple more hours to go....
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I just used 5/16 D locking clips. It literally takes me seconds to convert the seats back and forth.
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Didn't get much time today, but tackled a nasty problem I found when I was stripping the drive belts to do the timing belt. Alternator tensioner bolt was stripped right out. I could slide the bolt in and out with no resistance (I was wondering why it was missing when I pulled it all apart).
Helicoil to the rescue! I freaking love helicoils. Whoever invented them needs to be bought many brews for his wonderful contribution to the automotive world! Just saved me so much $$ now that I don't need to buy a new alternator.
This new truck is just full of surprises.... good thing the body and frame are so clean!
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Check the rear body mount bolts?
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Finally got around to pulling the rusty brake booster and replacing it with a much cleaner and newer one that I restored. Now just to install the brake master cylinder and bleed the system with new fluid and she is pretty much done
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Cool that's good to know. I want to adapt the maxima factory fan switch temp sensor as well to wire it up for low speed and a switch for high speed of I ever need it. Good to know it fits well. I don't mind a bit of trimming at all
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted
Easy to lock yourself out of your truck with that feature, be careful!