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Nefarious

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Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. Manual Trans vehicles typically come with the 4.3 ratio front and rear diff gears. Automatics came with the 4.6 gears. This is not always the case but has been true in all of the pathfinders that I've ever seen. The 4.3 ratio in the manual trucks is used since the manual trucks inherently make more power to the ground through less drive train loss and can push a slightly taller gear set with the same effort. The autos were given 4.6 to help mask the effect of the power sucking automatic transmission.

     

    The automatics Rev lower going down the freeway because of the much taller final drive ratio of the auto Trans' vs the manuals 5th gear.

     

    My girls 1993 pathy came stock with 31" tires, manual Trans, and 4.3 gears. My 93 auto came with 4.6 gears and 235/75 tires. My 92 auto came with 4.6 gears and 31" tires.

  2. Just a quick comment, love the work; but I would add some extra reinforcements to the rear bumper mounting system if i were you. The bolt on hidden hitch for a pathfinder is exactly what I'm going to copy as a reinforcement method. The rear frame tapers down to a c channel rear section which is quit weak when coupled with a heavy rear bumper with integrated tow hitch (ask me how I know). I am going to add some reinforced side to side trusses integrated into my rear bumper brackets to combat this issue. Seeing and feeling the trailer bounce just because of weak rear frame points is disconcerting if you plan to actually tow with your rig!

  3. Drove it for 200 miles in 4WD, mountains were extremely snowy in Colorado.

     

    I like the fact that the 4WD limits wheel slip by further distributing a lack of power!

     

    On another note, really pissed at it because it was doing weird stuff 10 miles from home. Loss of power associated with the gas pedal while climbing a hill, felt similar to what happens when you hit the rev limiter in any other car, except magnified. Turned on my flashers, which made it worse, so I turned them off and limped to the top of the hill. Let it idle for a while, which got rid of the whole bucking-horse power problem. Let it idle outside my apartment for 30 minutes, came back out, everything was fine. Power fine, dash lights didn't dim when I turned on the headlights. Stuggled to re-start when I tried. The woes of a loose alternator belt/ alternator that is getting ready to lay down and die. :headwall:

    might also want to check the maf connector for loose pin receptacles or maybe a dirty sensor if the alternator/belt doesn't pan out.

     

     

    today I ground down, sanded, many metal parts. Refurbished some washer pumps to make an intercooler sprayer... and finished cleaning up the brake booster and timing covers. Managed to paint a few pieces with a first coat but got cold too fast so it will have to wait until tomorrow.

  4. I've installed the 2wd swap in my girls pathy now using moog center link and problem solver inner tie rods and it is incredibly solid. She daily drives it and we wheel it all the time and it's still as tight as day one. The added benefit is less bump steer over stock since the lower control arm and tie rod articulation angles match up better.

     

    It won't be as durable as a calmini setup, but it solves and eliminates the horrible dog bone center link and replaces it with a standard 4wd ifs steering setup similar to a Chevy or a 4 runner. I've been rocking it for years in my truck and hers is even better than mine with the moog parts.

  5. You will love the duras in the snow... best tire ever!

     

    Today I pulled the brake booster out of my 93 parts truck and started cleaning the rust off it and sanding it down and getting it ready for paint. The one in the new 92 is absolutely trashed rusty from a horribly leaky master cylinder. Also cleaned all the grease and grime off the timing covers as well to get them ready for paint as well.

     

    Can't wait to get all the new parts back on with fresh black paint on it all and a new master cylinder. Almost ready for winter!

  6. I always suggest vg33 swaps as the first step but that's because we have two swapped rigs in the family. Lol. Best mod ever for a wd21. Any performance parts thereafter have even more of an effect and that extra base torque is really noticeable in a heavy truck like our pathys. I searched smart and acquired both vg33s for the swaps for 350$ combined. If you look around and are willing to pull the motor, you can get good deals on the 3.3s from my experience. Totally worth it for the cost.

     

    Expect 10-12 hp in a vg30 or 15-18 hp in a vg33 (since the vg33 has such weak cams stock to begin with) with a good set of aftermarket cams.

     

    I'll report back when I get my thezshop re ground cams installed. Should be worth near 20 hp and a good bit of mid range torque with the setup I'm planning. :)

  7. Always check codes first, it's the easiest way to get a general idea of what's going on. Let the sensors do the work for you. :).

     

    Also, check engine grounds and also wiggle/service all of the engine sensor harness plug points. It's pretty common for the pins inside the plugs to loosen and cause issues. Pretty easy to pull the harness plugs one by one and tighten the pins with a little pick or electronics common screw driver. Good ones to check are coolant temp sensor, maf sensor, throttle position sensor.

     

    You can put the ecu in a diagnostics mode thst will check your o2 sensor condition as well. There are instructions in the garage section.

     

    Post back with results of the ecu code check!

  8. You don't have to change valve springs if you are just putting stock vg30 cams in a vg33. The vg30 actually has the more aggressive cams with a longer duration AND more lift. The vg33e has baby cams... IIRC the vg33 cams are 230 or so degrees of duration and .354" lift and the vg30 cams are 240 or so degrees of duration and .393" lift. Can't remember the exact degrees of duration but it's around there and the lift I'm pretty certain of. Should be worth 10 or so horsepower if you have exhaust and headers as well.

    • Like 1
  9. Well i pulled the 2wd steering links, steering damper, idler arm brace, trans cooler, low pro bump stops, ball joint spacers, steering box and fog light relay wiring out of the old 93.

     

    Tore down the entire timing assembly and water pump off the new 92 and starting cleaning the front of the engine. One of the cam seals was absolutely obliterated and pouring oil and the crank seal was weeping.

     

    Also pulled the leaking brake master cylinder and started cleaning off the corrosion from the brake booster to get ready to paint it in preparation of the new master cylinder.

     

    Tomorrow i will be finishing cleaning up the front of the engine and removing the old water pump gasket. Im also going to clean and paint the timing covers and all the other misc tubes and brackets while its all apart.

     

    Then it's a waiting game until my new lisle seal puller arrives. I'm not even going to bother pulling the seals until it arrives. I know how much if a pain it can be and after seeing a demo video of it in action I might as well wait until it shows up in the mail in a few days.

  10. Finally got all my parts that I ordered for the new pathy to get it ready for winter duty. The tear down begins today! New gates timing belt assembly with tensioner and water pump. New front cam and crank seals. Also going to be swapping the radiator as well as all 2wd steering bits from my old truck over to the new one as well as my low pro bump stops/steering damper/rear springs.

     

    Going to make a new idler arm brace as well so I can put my old one on the old ladies truck and she can take hers in for a tow alignment.

     

    will be sitting right around 7" of suspension lift once it's all said and done! Not even sure if I want to move the body lift over after. ..would end up with 10" of lift lol.

  11. I don't know why you would ever want positive camber. I am speaking from the perspective of proper alignment theory. Positive camber means the wheels will be angled like this \ / with the tops of the tires leaned out. That will be detrimental to your handling as opposed to negative camber which will have the wheels oriented like this / \ with the tops leaned in. I don't care what a repair manual says. I have aligned my own pathy as well as my cars for years and they all ride superbly with no uneven wear patterns. I run 4 degrees negative camber up front, 1.5 degrees negative camber in rear with 8.5 degrees positive caster and proper toe settings and even with that aggressive alignment, I have even wear. It's just more sensitive to toe wear as camber increases (up to a certain point). My pathy runs 1 degree negative camber front and 0 rear obviously and it rides great and handles well after 7 inches of suspension lift and I also have even tire wear. 25k km on my current 33x12.5 duratracs and they are still barely worn.

  12. Super lift or Rough Country ucas will correct your camber and ball joint angle, AC control arms won't correct anything and I would take stock arms over them personally.

     

    The only way to increase front end suspension travel is to install low profile bump stops and/or ball joint spacers. If you use bj spacers, then don't use 1" spacers with the stock controls arms. They will crack the metal at the end of the control arm. .5" spacers shouldn't cause issues with stock control arms.

     

    Any aftermarket control arms will be strong enough to handle ball joint spacers of any size but you risk damage to your cvs when using 4wd. If you use aftermarket arms and 1" ballpoint spacers, then make sure you install diff drop bushings to help alleviate the aggressive cv angles.

    • Like 1

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