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Nefarious

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Posts posted by Nefarious

    Tyre size question

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by Nefarious

    I think even a 33 x 10.5 will fit with just a slight torsion level (they are usually sagged on an older truck) on stocklego wheels. ItIt's the width that will cause rubbing more than the height. If you want 32 x 11.5 then u may need a small lift. 33 x 12.5 definitely needs lift and some minor trimming. I run 33 x 12.5 now and there's no way it's fitting without lift. So i would suggest 31 or 33 x 10.5 if you don't want any lift

     

    I've never owned a stock height pathy though, so just going by what I've read! I'm personally trying to find a nice tall skinny tire for my next set but it's hard to find a good off road tire that will drive well on the street in a 35 x 10.5 ish size

    Knock sensor issue

    in The Garage

    Posted

    It doesn't require a kit. You just find a place on the top of the intake plenum; central to the cylinder banks, and place the new knock sensor there. You then find the wire(s) (I can't remember if it's one or two wires) and splice on a new connector from nissan and you are good to go. There's a guide on youtube that a guy made for the r50 but it's the exact same method.

     

    another possibility is you could have possibly got bad gas, which was causing mild detonation. This would also have the possibility to set off the knock sensor code. Hopefully it stays gone!

    Knock sensor issue

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by Nefarious

    It's not detrimental for the time being but you may notice a slight drop in performance and a slight increase in fuel consumption until you replace it. You can also relocate it and splice into the harness if you want to avoid pulling the plenum, BUT ideally you replace it of course.

    R50, WD21...

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Wd21 only have crappy turning radius with the long steering stops. Seriously one of the best mods for wheeling tight trails is to swap the short steering stops in from a 'small tire package' truck. It turns about as sharp as a car after! Just need to have wheel spacers or lower offset rims so the tires don't rub the frame.

    Allignment run-around NEED HELP.

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by Nefarious

    Are the tires leaned out at the top like this \ / or leaned in at the top like this / \?

     

    If they are leaned out at the top, you have positive camber and need to remove alignment shims behind the front upper control arms. If they are leaned in at the top then you have negative camber and need to add shims behind the front upper control arms.

     

    I think I may make a write up on this topic when I tackle Kats truck, as this seems to be a popular subject. :)

    • Like 1

    What is your prefered motor oil?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    What I don't see addressed in any of this, and what I know the oil filter doesn't take care of is all the blow-by contaminants; the micro particulate and the acidic nature of used motor oil, especially in an older motor. Wear protection doesn't matter if the oil is etching everything when it sits. :shrug:

     

    B

    you are correct on that one B. I don't see anything of that nature either. I'll look into it just out of my own curiosity. I would imagine if you have weak piston ring (s) and do not have perfect compression than blow by is something that must be taken more into account on an aging motor.

     

    Personally, both kat and I pathfinders have been vg33e swapped with perfect compression vg33e that are literally like new (actually a little better at 180 psi exactly across all 6 cylinders) and we are also running catch cans to avoid Pcv recirculation of oil so I don't think this would be much of an issue for us BUT the acidity is something unavoidable. I think I may contact the company and see what their answer is for that one. Thanks for bringing that up and I'll update here if I find anything. I'm curious more than anything!

    Torsion bar lift - how to?

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by Nefarious

    For a 1-1.5 " lift though, it's not worth (in my opinion) spending money on aftermarket control arms. You will be fine with stock.

     

    The control arm swap itself is very very easy. But if you want to keep stock control arms and just replace bushings it's much more work but also costs much less money. Trade off for sure.

     

    if you are serious about 1.5 " then I would personally do this for the budget minded.

     

    Crank torsion bars to desired height. Replace upper control arm bushings, install fleurys rear coil spacers for either 1" or 2" rear lift depending on the stance you want. If you want 2" rear you probably want to get longer rear shocks to accommodate the extra travel, if 1" is all you want in rear, I wouldn't worry about rear shocks.

     

    this 1.5 front / 1 rear lift will cost about 110$ in parts.

    if you want 1.5 front / 2 rear it will cost about 200$ including new rear shocks.

    Torsion bar lift - how to?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    You don't need longer shocks in the front for your torsion lift.

     

    if you go close to 2" higher in the rear then you may want longer rear shocks.

     

    If you replace the front upper control arms with aftermarket ones, then you don't need to do the control arm bushings as the aftermarket arms come with new bushings.

     

    If you want to keep stock control arms then it's kind of a pain to replace the bushings but not too bad. personally, if you actually only want 1-1.5" of lift, then I wouldn't worry about buying aftermarket control arms. If you go 2" or higher than its probably for the best if you do get them; but, I personally wouldn't use the AC control arms as they do not correct ball joint angles anyway. The superlift arms (also on AC website) are a much better choice if you plan to go that route. They are slightly longer (to account for camber) and angled to sit ball joints level.

    DIY Wheel Alignment Links.

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by Nefarious

    String method works as long as you aren't lifted. Once that Panhard is at an angle your rear axle will be shifted sideways and the string method won't work (unless you have a Panhard drop of course) . If you are stock height it's really easy. Just wrap some strong twine around your rear Panhard. Run it around the vehicle through the center line of your rear and front wheels on one side. Then you can pull the string tight and place it against the front wheel while sitting down and looking straight down the line. Adjust tie rods until the string sits flush against the faces of the front and rear tire bulges and you will get it real close anyways. Then just do the same for the other side and then re check both sides. U will need someone to sit in the drivers seat and hold the steering wheel in the center position as well.

    • Like 2

    Custom Tuning a Pathfinder ECU, the Project begins.

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    So far so good! Even with the slight changes I've made so far, the gf pathy can make it up hills in 4th gear at 50km/h without any bogging that she used to have to shift down to third for! And we have only added a small bit of timing on the timing tables thus far and the engine is still pig rich under load (like all pathy are for some reason). Waiting for the second wideband o2 to show up and her new exhaust to go in before we continue to push the tune. I'm also working on a custom piece of electronics to have full time knock monitoring with a knock light.

     

    Lots of fun things in the works! I'll keep posted for sure!

    • Like 1
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