Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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Depends on the temperature of the air under the hood. I'm running a 2.5 inch snorkel with an inline air filter so it will be the coldest air i can get
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The maf is definitely a restriction on these engines. It is the tightest bottleneck in the entire intake system. If you actually look inside the maf housing, the air path is TINY.
With a stock engine, upgrading it won't make a huge difference. But once you have headers, exhaust, intake, cams etc, the maf becomes restrictive, especially when you are running a 3.3l block. Nissan uses a 90 mm maf on the vg33e equipped vehicles from the factory for a reason.
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Well thus far I can confirm that the tbi pathy also does NOT have a consult port. It also had the 12 pin check connector. There are a couple of conductors that run from the ecu to this connector but I'll have to dig a little deeper as to what each signal is. There is a possibility that they run high in parallel to the diagnostic leds. I'll take a closer look in a bit when I get some more time
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You are the man! The hi res version is appreciated as the details are pretty fine on that one haha. I'll look over these tonight and see what I can come up with for you all.
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Did u get the ebay intake??
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An honest man!
Definitely pick up the rubber ends from alkorahil though, that is a great price and those things are always trashed after 20 years.
Some parts just don't really go bad, the metal front cover is one of em so it's generally more of a junk yard thing.
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They are plentiful in the junk yards as far as i have seen. Might try looking there for the front lower cover and then order the rubber ends from alkorahil and slap a can of spray paint on the cover. Would be just like new and cost a lot less I would think
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Fixed an open wire causing my keyless entry to cease locking the doors. Easy fix.
just finished pulling most of the wiring to retrofit heated mirrors into my 92. Ran a conductor from the defrost relay normally open contacts and have it running up to the front to power the mirrors. I soldered on the factory connectors inside the doors so it plugs in like oem. Just need to finish pulling wires through the passenger door and it's all done. Yay defrosting mirrors!
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I noticed no difference in how my truck ran with or without the egr to be honest. I know most jdm nissan don't even have egr at all. I ran without for a year and had no issues.
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Oh sorry! My bad, I meant just the eccs line diagram that's usually shortly after the title page in the EF EC section. It has all of the main electrical connections but is a simplified version. It's usually on page 6 or 8 on the other fsm I've read. So just that page from EF EC, page 2 with the harness connector from EL, and then the 3 or so pages from the foldout master diagram and I could probably come up with a pinout and tell you whether there is consult or not
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http://max.pilotpowersupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/consult_car.jpg
here is the consult plug on a nissan. All consult 1 plugs look like this that i know of and they are 14 pin
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Does anyone have the fsm for the early tbi model pathy? Could they scan the foldout page with master wiring diagrams as well as the EL section and I could tell you whether there's true consult or not.
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Oh maybe I'm wrong about all wd21, I have no idea if the tbi models have consult or not, my bad. I've only studied the 90-95 models wiring diagrams and I know them pretty well
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Found a center console extension with a good pad and intact cup holders..same colour as my new interior! Stoked! Only problem is the hinge of the lid is broken off.. but I think I have a plan to fix it with some sheet aluminum that I have already and some rivets. We shall see how it comes out.
Also tracked down the rear defrost relay and installed some heated side mirrors so just need to wire those up tomorrow in the new 92.
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Continued ripping apart my 1993 parts truck to get all the bits to make my other two wd21 complete. Anybody looking for any parts cheap? Lol
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Do you have a multimeter ? I could give you some areas to test if you do.
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The 10 or 12 pin diagnostic check connector may be able to be tapped into for those led signals, not sure about that, but just wanted to clear up that wd21 don't have the true consult port. The only vg30e ecu that has consult (tx/rx) support is the Infiniti m30 ecu.
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Wd21 pathfinders do not have a consult port. The consult port is a 14 pin connector with digital (tx/rx) communication network ports.
The pathfinder only has the check connector which is an analog voltage diagnostic port but is NOT a consult port and is not only wired differently but carries different signals. You can wire up led in parallel to the factory diagnostic led and run the new led to an easily visible spot in the cabin.
just wanted to clear that up for anyone working on this. The pathfinder ecu doesn't even contain the TX and rx ports to wire in a consult. They were omitted from the ecu design.
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You could most likely still fix that off center stud as precise1 is saying.. i would repair the stud first, if the motor runs well..
If you want to replace the heads then you can get quite reasonable fully rebuilt replacement heads on ebay. They really don't cost very much for what you get and a fully rebuilt set of heads.
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Ruggedrocks.com
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Replacing front upper control arm bushings to poly. Yay... (not)... bushings never get MORE fun to do, only LESS fun no matter how many times I do them even though it's a lot easier now...
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Test from the large power cable that bolts to the starter to negative terminal or any other ground point on the vehicle. Have someone crank the car to start and test for 12 v at that fat wire. If you get 12v there but no starter engagement then you have a problem with starter. If you test for 12v at the fat wire to alternator and u don't get 12v there, then u have a relay, wiring, or switch issue somewhere
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Oh I'm sure you could get it to pass, but it might be trial and error. Best thing to do is make two chips. One chip containing factory tune with n60 maf support alone and then a second performance chip with n60 maf support.
plug in the factory chip for the test and then crack open the ecu case and put in the performance tune chip when you get home
N60 maf/tune and cams are the way I'm going next. Should be the best bang for the buck power wise for my goals
Starter or not, I've no idea
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by Nefarious
Okay well I like to work backwards personally. Start at the end and work back to where the issue is. Testing relays is pretty easy. You will have 4-6 wires going to each relay. Generally, a small coil and ground wire that engages the contacts and 2-4 thicker switched power wires. What you want to do is set the volts to 20 on your meter, place the negative lead on any ground point on the vehicle or on the negative battery post. Then you use the positive probe to test where there's voltage. First identify the feed line to the relay. This wire will be a thicker wire and will have 12 v high all the time, even when the vehicle is off. Identify which thicker wires have 12v and which ones don't have 12v. The thicker wire (s) that have no voltage when the vehicle is off are your switched side contacts that feed the starter solenoid. What you want to do is place the test lead on that thicker wire that natively has no voltage on it and then have someone turn the key to on. If you see 12v appear then you know the contacts closed and the relay works fine. You then move up the line to the next component in the circuit. This is usually the clutch interlock relay if you have manual or the inhibitor relay if you are automatic.