Jump to content

UPDATE - Unfortunately, the data that was lost is unrecoverable by the host.  If you joined between May 26th and Jan 13th please feel free to sign up again.  In addition, all posts and messages during that time have also been lost.  At this point there is nothing that can be done, other than to move forward from here.


Thank you for your patience and understanding.

-NPORA Mod Team

*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. You don't want positive camber. You want 0.1 to 1 degrees of negative camber. Negative camber will aid in handling, positive camber will hurt handling. 1 degree of negative camber is not enough to affect tire wear as long as the toe is set properly.


    For caster, the more caster you can get, the better. There is basically no limit of positive caster. The caster is what centers the wheel back to center and keeps the vehicle stable at speeds.


    For setting camber, you want to place shims under both UCA bolts. To set caster you place shims under only the forward most UCA bolt. That's why there's more shims in the front then the back. Your camber angle will have very little effect on tracking, the caster is what will really effect vehicle tracking (as well as toe). Your right front wheel should have just a slight bit more positive caster than your front left wheel. This is due to the natural crown of the road for drainage. The increased caster on the front right will fight the crown of the road (which will pull you to the right if not set correctly).


    It seems no alignment shops like to tackle the alignment job properly.

  2. Installing the obx headers even WITH a 3 inch body lift was tight. We were just wondering if anyone had done it without the body lift to make sure it fits into place without having to pull the motor BEFORE we pull the entire stock exhaust to fit them in place. Time is tight and it's her daily driver so we need to minimize down time as much as possible.

    • Like 1
  3. Received my spectre inline air box/filter in the mail today. 3" inlet and outlet to match the n60 maf. Just waiting on a couple more couplers to put together the custom intake. Come on shipping!


    also got a couple of tie rods in the mail as well. Now I can swap over the 2wd steering swap and steering damper from the old 93 to the new 92.

  4. I expect at least 20 hp and at least 10-15 lb ft with the cams. Plus an increase in mileage. I run exhaust, headers, and soon to be fully custom intake with n60 maf and a snorkel plus an ecu tune. Should be around 210 hp and 230 lb ft torque with my 3.3 swap. In total I will have spent 700-800 dollars in parts including the engine for my entire setup

  5. To install cams all you do is remove the timing assembly and the cam seals. Pull the valve covers and Un bolt the cam retainers. The cams then slide out forward from the engine. There's a little more to it than that, but that's the basic procedure. I'm going to be going with re grind cams from the z store. They are about 130$ for a pair if you have donor stock cams to send in.

  6. If you have an LSD, and your wheel comes off the ground, you can apply a bit of brakes while giving gas at the same time. The extra opposing force applied against the direction of wheel spin will help to engage the other wheel. Works well if you lift a rear tire and use e brake handle, but for front wheel you have to use gas and brake at the to same time. Would be hard to do with a manual in some cases but quite easy in an automatic.

  7. http://240sxdrifter.tripod.com/writeups/vlsdshim.html


    You can shim a viscous LSD to make it more aggressive; bringing it closer to a 1.5 or 2 way diff. The problem will be actually fitting the diff guts and the corresponding v lsd axle shafts into the pathy.


    The link posted above is a guide on shimming a VLSD.


    I can't however help you when it comes to actually fitting the diff guts and axle shafts into the pathy front diff. Im sure the guts would probably swap over but i have no idea on how to make the axles work.


    Someone else may he able to chime in on that one. Pretty sure the axles are specific to VLSD vs standard open or clutch type lsds.

  8. Ran the compression in my old 93 XE with the vg33 swap. 180-190 psi across all cylinders, so I'm happy enough with that. The motor will be pulled and fresh timing, seals, lines, and paint will be installed before it makes it over into the new 92 SE. Had to get creative to run the compression since the dash and ignition have already been pulled out so I jumped the starter solenoid directly to the battery with a jumper tool I made, so as to complete the compression test before I pull the motor.

  9. NTB97009 is the TSB code for the transmission whine due to severe duty use (not enough fluid from the factory causing whine when vehicle is driven hard over steep Innes and declines). Nissan states there is a revised transmission case which moves the drain plug up higher on the case to increase oil capacity to 5.1 litres. Also, I believe all manual transmissions 1996 and newer have the revised case if i remember correctly.

  10. Received 2 silicone couplers in the mail. Just waiting for one more and i can start working on my custom intake setup. 2.75" pipe to match the throttle body inlet. 2.75" -3" couplers to mount the n60 maf and inline air filter and back to 2.75" for the rest of the snorkel. Come on parts! Hurry up in the mail!

  11. Actually there are markings on the lower portion where the brackets that hold the carrier would go. When I added a carrier, there were little divits to mark where to drill but only for the lower brackets. If I remember correctly, there were also spot welded nuts just under the sheet metal to bolt the lower brackets to as well. The carrier itself has no factory reinforcement behind the sheet metal where the hinges attach though. My truck was not marked for where to drill for the hinges so make sure you locate those carefully.


    For the reinforcements I cut some 3/16 inch plate steel and got creative with a torch and a ball peen hammer to create the slight contour of the area and then drilled the appropriate holes to line it all up.

    Also replaced the hinge bushings while I was at it and it has worked great with no body deformation carrying my spare 33x12.5 for years now without issue.

  12. It's pretty common for the rubber hoses that connect the two sides of the fuel rail to deteriorate and become loose over the ends where it seals to the rail. Tighten the hose clamps with a screw driver will probably help but it's likely getting time to replace those hoses and may as well do the injector seal o rings when you are in there. Gas fire in an engine bay is no joke.

  13. Packed up the significant others wd21 with supplies for the weekend. Off on a road trip to visit her family. 6 hour trip one way with a ferry in the middle, here we go!


    not pathfinder related, but on another note... going to look at a 1992 240sx and a 1988 300zx while we are out in the city...both incredibly good prices.

  14. Never thought you did, I'm not exactly on a pressured time table here, still have plenty of other parts of the project to work on as well.


    If I decide to offload them, (or find a second set of either the guards and/or the covers) I'll make sure to notify you :aok:

    Awesome! I would greatly appreciate that!

  15. Wd21 guards block the hole for the pin to hold the spare tire carrier from swinging at you when open. The genius in me finally realized today it will work if you stick the pin through the bottom of the hinge :lol: (may not work with a rear bumper attached to vechile :shrug: )

    I've got a custom steel rear bumper. I left a gap away from the body so I can stand on my rear bumper easily and it's open in between so I should be able to get the pin in from the bottom I think. If you ever decide you don't like them anymore... let me know! :)


    P.s. I finally got around to getting my old truck up on jackstands and getting the wheels off! I will be gone this weekend, but can pull them when I get back and have some time. Should be able to grab those brake parts for you by next weekend. I didn't forget!

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...